Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

I'm getting some funky goings on at the chain/gear level after I changed the chain with no other changes. Checked the torque on the chain ring as I had it off and it is good. Sounds like at the rear and am wondering if the gears on the cassette are worn enough the new chain is not playing well. The chain is the exact same part number that came off, HG601.

This is the first chain change at 1470 miles with the chain just barely breaking the .5 barrier. I can't imagine it is the cassette gears but can't think of anything else. The master links are fine, never see any obvious metal wear. The front chain ring and chain are in sync.

Don't have the old chain anymore or I'd put it back on to check.
 
I'm getting the same on my big Vado Marcela. The cassette replaced in the Summer and the chain replaced recently. Chain skipping at the 11th gear.
 
Do you happen to know the stock cassette number for the 11-42 range 11 spd? I'm lookin right now.

That's crazy these gears don't last longer if that is my problem. I gave the chain away and trying to get it back to see if I can put it back on and the result.
 
Found it. Shimano SLX 11-42t for the 11 spd pre 2022 Vado. Praxis works 48t chainring. Also 124 link HG601 chain on mine. Here is the review with listed specs:


I'm thinking of the chain goes and the cassette goes with it, might as well ride them til the chain and gears take a major dump then change it all out together.
 
What happens if I change the chainring from 48t to 40t? How confused does the computer get?
I’d lose 5 mph at top end from 30 to 25 but I rarely go above 25 anyway and it is a struggle for the bike to get above 25. It’d also move me towards the center of the cassette as I peddle unassisted s majority of the time.

Never mind. Changing from 48 to 40 only changes one gear at the rear. 48 to 36 changes two gears which might be worth it. One gear at the rear hardly worth the trouble unless it’s time to change out the chainring anyway.
 
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Sorry for missing your posts Marcela.
What happens if I change the chainring from 48t to 40t? How confused does the computer get?
The e-bike controller won't even notice the change. It is not a Bosch :D
My choice was 48T -> 38T (steel) and it is for the 11-46T cassette. I'm not a speed king but can produce pretty high cadence when necessary. The swap has had its good and worse sides.

Pros:
  • It was mandatory for me to lower the gear ratio for my Summer mountain rides. I would not make 19% grade climbs otherwise, and even 14% could be problematic, even in full Turbo. The climbs had been very long!
  • It gave my Vado tremendous acceleration, which I just love!
Cons:
  • The 11T cog got damaged in just 2,000 km
  • Decreased average speed on my rides (I have become more careful lately).
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See the 38T Shimano e-bike rated steel chainring (Shimano Steps SM-CRE80).
 
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Thanks Stefan. I had a new cassette i installed but it was 11-34. I still have the issue so I have a 36t chainring on the way now. All new components should solve it. The 36t chainring should move the chain 2 cogs closer to being in line with the front for my riding style. Maybe my dry moly lube wasn’t all it was cracked up to be but it works well on the other nonebikes. I’m going to the old standard motor oil and see what happens.
 
I was wondering how my chain gauge tool was working, I have the park tool go/no go gauge and ordered their cc-2 gauge which has a pin that slides on a gauged reading. The go/no go gauge shows a chain still good at less than .5, the cc-2 gauge shows the chain wear at .5 which recommends replacement for 10-12 spd chains.

Might have contributed to my cassette and chainring dilemma above.
 
I was wondering how my chain gauge tool was working, I have the park tool go/no go gauge and ordered their cc-2 gauge which has a pin that slides on a gauged reading. The go/no go gauge shows a chain still good at less than .5, the cc-2 gauge shows the chain wear at .5 which recommends replacement for 10-12 spd chains.

Might have contributed to my cassette and chainring dilemma above.
Marcela, a digital caliper is something that is hard to beat :)
 
Marcela, a digital caliper is something that is hard to beat :)
Yeah I have one of those. That’s just measuring pin distance correct? I think a good way would be to measure the forward face of the rollers with the chain under tension. Measuring distance between rollers would be my option at the moment.

I’m hoping the 36t chainring will let me use a116 link chain without any splicing.
 
Yeah I have one of those. That’s just measuring pin distance correct? I think a good way would be to measure the forward face of the rollers with the chain under tension. Measuring distance between rollers would be my option at the moment.
I have found this method the most accurate.
I’m hoping the 36t chainring will let me use a116 link chain without any splicing.
Who knows? 122 chain links would do on my 38/46 T gearing. Yours would be 36/34 meaning 14 links less...
 
Got my new chain ring in. Ordered the Praxis 36t which is the same as used on the Tero, so I'm making a slow transition and start calling my bike the Varo. The oem unit was aluminum 48t, this praxis is steel and threaded so I didn't need any extra fasteners. I can also use a 116 link chain which can be purchased as a 116 link chain, no additions or subtractions. Praxis is affordable at $30 usd direct from them. Also this fixed my chain noises. Appears along with the chain and rear cogs wearing out, the front aluminum chain ring went south along with them. So now I'm all steel.

And it feels like it has more power:).
 
The 36t works great for unassist which I do a lot. Under power I think the 40t might be a better choice. With 35% power I’m down into the small cogs pretty well. I ride the sidewalks and city streets quite a bit so the 36t will probably be fine though with stop and go and dodging cars.
 
The 36t works great for unassist which I do a lot. Under power I think the 40t might be a better choice. With 35% power I’m down into the small cogs pretty well. I ride the sidewalks and city streets quite a bit so the 36t will probably be fine though with stop and go and dodging cars.
That's why I do not want to resign from my 36T on the Vado. Small cogs are worn pretty fast though.
 
Took the Como 5 out today with the new 36t chainring. I was on the level with about 20+ lbs of cargo and did a speed run. I was at the top of my cadence doing 27-28 mph which surprised me. I'm thinking a 40t would easily fulfill the requirements of a class 3 bike, if you don't have the legs you shouldn't be up there:). Could be one reason the motors are being trashed is using the 48t chainring, and being aluminum doesn't help.
 
There is some information @Marcela that might be of interest to you.

As long as I was riding my 38T chainring Vado in the mountains, I was using all the gears (including the 46T granny gear). After my return to the plains, I seem to be riding in high gears mostly. Guess what. After just 2000 km ridden since the cassette replacement, a brand new chain started skipping on the 11t cog! My brother did a precise measurement: the cog teeth got worn by 0.5 mm. If you do some math, it is the amount of wear equivalent to the necessity of replacing the chain.

As I hate the thought of returning to the 48T chainring, I guess using a 42T one might shift me to using more of middle gears. Thoughts?

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My brother had disassambled the cassette and gave it thorough cleaning...

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Assembled it step by step...

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To finally giving me the Vado back with the new 11t cog and in perfect shape.


(I have been fortunate to be able to buy some spare 11 and 13t, 11-speed cogs for my stock).
 
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