Specialized Turbo Vado/Como/Tero/Tero X User Club

[Marcela]

The flow or run off of Lubing the chain will lube the cassette. I was watching a vid about a guy testing a moly product and somebody made a comment they did wear testing on some type of valve for industrial use and came to the conclusion that mobil 1 5w20 and marvel mystery oil and moly were the optimum combination for their use, didn’t mention any ratios or specifics. I believe in the moly as I was using it dry but wasn’t getting the benefits I thought I should.

I don’t know Stefan, what you say is true of the small cogs. Everything is a trade off. Just be happy and it doesn’t really matter.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I don’t know Stefan, what you say is true of the small cogs.

It is true. That's why the smallest cogs can be bought separately. There is a big difference in cost between the replacement cog and a very expensive cassette. Large cogs as well as chainring spread the stress easier, that's why we replace the whole cassette or a chainring rarely, and the chain is being replaced the most often.

Bear in mind we lube not the chain but only the rollers. It is the roller pins that need lubing. The rest of the chain could and should be clean to not attract the contaminants.

 

[Marcela]

Think I’m going to try compressed air to clean my stuff. 100 psi should knock the hair off anything.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Think I’m going to try compressed air to clean my stuff. 100 psi should knock the hair off anything.

My brother is dismantling the drive-train and he gives any part a wash in white spirit.

 

[teskow]

I thought about using compressed air to clean my chain but after rethinking it, it may just drive the dirt into the pins and rollers.

 

[Ebiker53]

I thought about using compressed air to clean my chain but after rethinking it, it may just drive the dirt into the pins and rollers.

I've heard that concern in some youtube videos on chain maintenance. I use compressed air to blow water off my chain after a wet clean and haven't noticed any problems so far.

 

[DCeB]

There is some information @Marcela that might be of interest to you.

As long as I was riding my 38T chainring Vado in the mountains, I was using all the gears (including the 46T granny gear). After my return to the plains, I seem to be riding in high gears mostly. Guess what. After just 2000 km ridden since the cassette replacement, a brand new chain started skipping on the 11t cog! My brother did a precise measurement: the cog teeth got worn by 0.5 mm. If you do some math, it is the amount of wear equivalent to the necessity of replacing the chain.

As I hate the thought of returning to the 48T chainring, I guess using a 42T one might shift me to using more of middle gears. Thoughts?

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My brother had disassambled the cassette and gave it thorough cleaning...

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Assembled it step by step...

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To finally giving me the Vado back with the new 11t cog and in perfect shape.

(I have been fortunate to be able to buy some spare 11 and 13t, 11-speed cogs for my stock).

Do you by chance have the part numbers for the 11 and 13 tooth cogs? I need to replace those and probably the 15 tooth as well.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

If you use a Shimano 11-speed cassette, look for cogs for CS-M8000 (Deore XT) or CS-M7000 (SLX). The cogs are fully compatible. I do not have their part numbers though.

 

[DCeB]

If you use a Shimano 11-speed cassette, look for cogs for CS-M8000 (Deore XT) or CS-M7000 (SLX). The cogs are fully compatible. I do not have their part numbers though.

I have the ten speed unfortunately with the CS-HG500 cassette. I can find 11t XT 10 speed cogs but there are at least two part numbers I'm seeing. One for an 11-32 cassette and another for the 11-36. I am striking out on HG500 specific cogs.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

As far as I can understand, Shimano small cogs are compatible as long these are made for the given number of speed in the cassette (10-sp in your case).

 

[Bumblebea]

The rigid fork is the best thing that might have happened to that very model. Combined with the 2" tyres and proper geometry, the ride is super-smooth even on very bad roads. There is a direct comparison. My other e-bike is a classic hybrid e-bike with 1.6" tyres and a cheap suspension fork. I ride both bikes on the same roads. Vado handles damaged road surface or off-road terrain far more smoothly than the other, front-suspended bike. Trust my word.

Some pictures:
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It is the status of my Vado now. Note the risen handlebars.

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On a ride

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On a damaged road

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On a commuter train

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In the city


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Just after the purchase and the first ride from Warsaw to my place

Stefan, where do you live? You mentioned a Warsaw ride? I was born in Radom… I still have family there.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I live in SW suburbs of Warsaw Bea. Born in Warsaw. Been to Radom for several times!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I've changed the thread title to recognize the existence of Specialized Turbo Tero, as this model is based on the 2022 Vado frame. Any objections?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

What was your decision about the chainring eventually @Marcela?
I can only tell you my 13t cassette cog has worn out in 2,000 kms with the 38T chainring. That's because I'm mostly staying in the 10th (of 11) gear with the small chainring. My Vado is at a mechanic now.

 

[Marcela]

What was your decision about the chainring eventually @Marcela?
I can only tell you my 13t cassette cog has worn out in 2,000 kms with the 38T chainring. That's because I'm mostly staying in the 10th (of 11) gear with the small chainring. My Vado is at a mechanic now.

I like the 36t for my use, which is a lot of unassist. With the assist it could be a little small but manageable. For a straight chainline, the 4th from smallest cog is inline with the chainring or one either side. That is going to help the chain I believe if you can keep the chainline straight. So if you move up a couple teeth on your chainring it is going to move it to a smaller cog and possibly inline with the front chain ring. Don't know how many you'd have to add to move it, then you compromise your large cassette gear useage. Moving from the 48t to the 36t via the calculator changed my cassette useage 2 cogs without considering easier pedalling which might have added another. (edited, thinking backwards)

This is all just bandaid on bandaid. The whole thing needs to be redesigned for the power of an ebike. I don't know if anybody has ever verified if it is the lubrication, lack of chain strength, or gear teeth issue.

This is the calculator I like. you can see what effect changes have.

BikeCalc.com - Fixed Gear Calculator

'Cadence at speed' is the one I like.

 

[Marcela]

Stefan, what is your solution? You're going through drivetrain like potato chips.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Stefan, what is your solution? You're going through drivetrain like potato chips.

Marcela: As I am really happy with the 38T chainring, I took a manly decision. I bought several spare 11 and 13T cogs. Actually, it is the 13T cog that gets worn first on my Vado 5.0. And that's the cog that allows me to stay with my gravel cycling groups at the proper speed. My Vado rear wheel is at the LBS right now for the cog replacement, to be collected on Wednesday.

My last gravel group ride was disastrous a little bit. All six guys were strong cyclists. I should have taken a spare battery on the ride. However, the most frustrating part was the worn 13t cog. My cadence in the 15th was too high, and it was too low in the 11th! I cannot always count on my brother to do the service for me! Fortunately, the closest competent LBS (a Cannondale dealer) is just 4 km away!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Now this!
I have been always afraid to lose the charging port plug on a Vado battery, and that happened on last Sunday. Frustrated, I came back home to find the magnetic plug on the floor. Damaged? No! Actually, that little charging port cover is of very nice design! The "floating" part is mounted in its hole by a tiny plastic anchor. Just a short while, and the plug got fastened again! It is a miracle design as I have never actually lost any of the charging port plugs in two years!

 

[Marcela]

Stefan, you can get those port plugs really cheap like less than $5 usd.

Here is some info on chain sizing, thought interesting to share. If I was to get another ebike or heavier cargo bike I'd certainly investigate larger chain solutions.

• 1/8″ (3.2mm) – some of the bikes with a single rear sprocket
• 3/32″ (2.4mm) – some of the bikes with a single rear sprocket, bikes with 5-8 rear sprockets, and derailleurs
• 11/128″ (2.2mm) – bikes with 9-12 rear sprockets and derailleurs
• 5/32″ (4.0mm) – freight bicycles and tricycles.

In other words, if you have a heavy-duty cargo bike or tricycle, you need a 5/32″ chain.

Drivetrain*	External Width, in	External Width, mm	Internal Width, in
5 / 6 / 7 / 8 speed	9/32″	7.1 – 7.3mm	3/32″
9 speed	1/4″ – 9/32″	6.5 – 7.0mm	11/128″
10 speed	1/4″ – 9/32″	6.0 – 7.0mm	11/128″
10 speed narrow	7/32″	5.88mm	11/128″
11 speed	7/32″	5.5 – 5.62mm	11/128″
12 speed	13/64″	5.3mm	11/128″

And everytime you increase the number of gears available the width of the teeth are reduced....

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Stefan, you can get those port plugs really cheap like less than $5 usd.

Where?

And everytime you increase the number of gears available the width of the teeth are reduced....

Yes. However, changing the number of speeds requires replacing the drivetrain, which is very expensive. Therefore, I'm not going to replace my 11-speed SLX/Deore XT (Vado) or 10-speed Deore/Deore XT (Vado SL).

Besides, just collected my Vado from a local bike mechanic with the 13t cog replaced. Planning long rides for the coming weekend!