Specialized Turbo Creo 28mph Electric Road Bike
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What size frame did you test out?
Kenmaryj
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Thanks all. May see if they have a Creo with the electronic shifting to at least try out.
Kenmaryj
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XL. Felt pretty good.
A word of advice-Don't test ride one with electronic shifting unless you are prepared to spend the extra $. It will spoil you.
Kenmaryj
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That made me laugh. Hey, if it's that good, the extra money should be worth it.
Ken, if the gears are not set up exactly and make noises/rattling wihtout motor or the chain does not stay on the teeth, that's easy to fix with setting the shifting/changing the length of the inner shifitng cable.
But that a middle motor causes higher stress on sprockets&chain is normal. For a smooth feeling while pedaling with motor the motor "fades in" slowly when you start pedaling and also "fades out" smoothly when you stop pedaling. If you just stop pedaling and shift immediately, there's still some power of the motor on the chain which will stress chain&sprocket. You have to wait a fraction of a second longer before shifting, at least in the higher support levels.
The "problem" of Di2 on the Creo is, that don't pay just the price difference of the shifting, but many other things you may not want or need. And that you also don't pay just the price difference of all thes things, but about twice their price difference, normal Specialized philosophy... So at the end you pay about $2000 more for the Di2 Creo model, while Di2 has only about $500 price difference to the GRX shifting.
Also the "love" isn't sure, I tried several bikes with Di2 and had it on one of my e-bikes for two years and never liked it. Also I don't see a lot of advantage for a single drive train which just one front chainring. If Di2 manages/syncronizes two shifters back&front is much more useful. So just try it and don't be afraid!
But that a middle motor causes higher stress on sprockets&chain is normal. For a smooth feeling while pedaling with motor the motor "fades in" slowly when you start pedaling and also "fades out" smoothly when you stop pedaling. If you just stop pedaling and shift immediately, there's still some power of the motor on the chain which will stress chain&sprocket. You have to wait a fraction of a second longer before shifting, at least in the higher support levels.
The "problem" of Di2 on the Creo is, that don't pay just the price difference of the shifting, but many other things you may not want or need. And that you also don't pay just the price difference of all thes things, but about twice their price difference, normal Specialized philosophy... So at the end you pay about $2000 more for the Di2 Creo model, while Di2 has only about $500 price difference to the GRX shifting.
Also the "love" isn't sure, I tried several bikes with Di2 and had it on one of my e-bikes for two years and never liked it. Also I don't see a lot of advantage for a single drive train which just one front chainring. If Di2 manages/syncronizes two shifters back&front is much more useful. So just try it and don't be afraid!
Does this really depend on the electronic shifting? Or simply on the higher quality/better formed sprockets? And afaik the problem that shifting suffers much more and makes worrying sounds when you change gears under pressure/while motor is running stays also with electronic shifting. I had a so called "speed pedelec" with more than twice the power of the Creo with Di2 and that didn't change anything for the gears, they where suffering a lot when shifting without a small "pedaling brake". Or is there now some communication between Di2 and SL drive? You put the trigger, Di2 informs Sl drive to stop the motor and the shifting happens some fractions of a second later? If not I don't see any help for this problem with Di2. But the "suffering" of sprockets&chain is much less than with normal/stronger drives. In level1 it's almost nothing, in level2 it's a little bit/needs just a short stop of pedaling. Only in level3 it's quite much and needs a longer break to be nice to your gears.
mschwett
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this sounds amazing ! to @Kenmaryj, my comp carbon shifts cleanly except for some of the shifts into the middle gears, where i have to give it an extra little nudge, but it’s never bothered me. 95% of the time it’s a quick tap on the brifter and i’m into the next gear.
... but i’ve never ridden one with the eTap, and it sounds like i probably shouldn’t
Kenmaryj
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Wow, lots of good information. Thanks all. I think I may just need to relearn proper shifting technique. As I may have mentioned when I first posted here, I took up road cycling in late 2008 and did it for 3-4 years, but been away from it for a while. For instance, remembering to downshift before coming to a stop so you're not in too high a gear to start up again. And Jodi's comment, "You have to wait a fraction of a second longer before shifting, at least in the higher support levels," may be something I can work on.
mschwett
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New Saddle Day for my Creo!
Noticed that this power mirror saddle was in stock at a nearby shop, and it had such great reviews I figured I'd give it a try.
Certainly not meaningfully lighter (37g lol) but my first thought sitting on it was, WOW OMG this is comfortable. The shape is very similar to the stock saddle, but it feels cushier and like it has a bit more "support" in the back, as if it were curved upward. A quick 20 mile ride revealed that the inital reaction was perhaps a bit of an exaggeration - it is more comfortable, and gives me a very positive feeling when I slide back a little, pull on the horns and push hard in the saddle, but it definitely isn't a miracle. Butt was still feeling it a bit after 20 miles seated. A nice upgrade though, and it looks pretty high tech.
To fit this on a Comp Carbon I needed the 7x9 post rail clamp (specialized part 2812-9050) which is out of stock on the specialized site but in stock at several local shops, of course, not the one I got the saddle from LOL. The saddle feels like it has a teeny tiny bit of play in the clamp - like it moves up a bit (perhaps .5mm) if you lift hard on the back of it, but it's torqued down and no amount of sitting / pushing / twisting seems to move it at all. Not sure if that little bit of give is the design of the carbon rails, or their interface with the clamp, or what.
Noticed that this power mirror saddle was in stock at a nearby shop, and it had such great reviews I figured I'd give it a try.
Certainly not meaningfully lighter (37g lol) but my first thought sitting on it was, WOW OMG this is comfortable. The shape is very similar to the stock saddle, but it feels cushier and like it has a bit more "support" in the back, as if it were curved upward. A quick 20 mile ride revealed that the inital reaction was perhaps a bit of an exaggeration - it is more comfortable, and gives me a very positive feeling when I slide back a little, pull on the horns and push hard in the saddle, but it definitely isn't a miracle. Butt was still feeling it a bit after 20 miles seated. A nice upgrade though, and it looks pretty high tech.
To fit this on a Comp Carbon I needed the 7x9 post rail clamp (specialized part 2812-9050) which is out of stock on the specialized site but in stock at several local shops, of course, not the one I got the saddle from LOL. The saddle feels like it has a teeny tiny bit of play in the clamp - like it moves up a bit (perhaps .5mm) if you lift hard on the back of it, but it's torqued down and no amount of sitting / pushing / twisting seems to move it at all. Not sure if that little bit of give is the design of the carbon rails, or their interface with the clamp, or what.
mschwett
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- USA
thanks! i didn't use any paste since the rails had a scuffed/rough texture finished area at the clamp contact. i need to raise my seat post a bit, will check the level and also investigate the source of the play. it's a very very tiny amount, nothing at all noticeable while riding, just when moving the bike by the seat.
Good Morning. I am 72 years old and have heart problems. I have thought about buying a Creo turbo to help me on the climbs. I live in Spain, in the foothills of the Sierra de Madrid. I hesitate between the Comp Carbon and the Expert. I don't know if there will be much difference in the climbs. I tried a Comp Carbon but with the Expert wheels and I liked the experience. Thank you very much for your advice.
The main differences are the Di2 and as you said the wheels. If you like Di2 and the wheels fit well for you (the wouldn't for me) you can go for the Expert.
You will NOT really feel the difference in the climbs (especially not with Di2... ;-) ), but it's often a good feeling with better stuff. The bad thing is that Specialized wants a lot of money for the better parts, about twice as much when you yourself would buy the parts in the net and change them yourself.
If you don't care for Di2, a nice compromise could be the Comp Carbon and buy a better (and individually made for you) wheelset, what would save you $1000-1500 and you would have a second wheelset for example for different tires.
You will NOT really feel the difference in the climbs (especially not with Di2... ;-) ), but it's often a good feeling with better stuff. The bad thing is that Specialized wants a lot of money for the better parts, about twice as much when you yourself would buy the parts in the net and change them yourself.
If you don't care for Di2, a nice compromise could be the Comp Carbon and buy a better (and individually made for you) wheelset, what would save you $1000-1500 and you would have a second wheelset for example for different tires.
I think I'm going to buy the Comp Carbon, because I don't need Di2. Accepting the good idea of Jodi2, I will put some elements of the Expert: the Roval C38 carbon wheels and the Shimano XT cassette. I will put aside the original Carbon Comp wheels and cassette which can later be used for gravel. I have a question: I guess Roval C38 wheels will already come with brake discs. Will they be compatible with the Comp Carbon brakes? Thank you for your answers.
Rincon
Well-Known Member
Roval wheels are built to order. Have them built with the same discs as the Carbon Comp. You’re good to go.
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