I'm helping a friend do a conversion on his old 1980's era Diamondback Sorrento MTB. He wants to use it for short trips to the market with a round trip of 8 miles. He also wants the bike to look as stealthy as possible. He doesn't need a lot of capacity so we're going to use one of his cordless tool batteries:
Someone on EBR was looking for "the smallest battery" to put on a kit bike. This would win the prize I would think.
Small batteries are not always a good choice. Especially with higher amps.
This is very true. That's why cordless tool batteries work well. They are designed for high current applications and don't generate much heat.
So would you only employ those with 36v motors?
I bought a 3D printed adapter to try my B&D batteries. Should be interesting.
The 10 Ah 48 volt battery I have like this one works fine, it feeds a 1500 watt hub motor rather well.
Have had good luck with my 36volt conversions, especially when I figured out it was fast enough.
Just took delivery of the same battery case (I think). 35E 36V 14Ah. All nickel ribbon and upgraded BMS.
When you do it, detach the bottom plate of the battery holder. Solder the leads directly from inside the motor into the holder after removing the battery pigtail. After soldering the motor leads, put a glob of hot glue or gasket sealant on the exposed prongs to prevent any chance of a condensation or moisture short. Eye protection is advised when removing the pigtail, as are leather gloves. Removal makes for spatters. And use a dot of red nail polish on the Plus side of the holder before removing the pigtail.
I may have more questions. I haven’t deconstructed it yet. Thank you! You’re simply the best kit builder I’ve met. EBR rocks thanks to posters like you!
For 36v applications, I would use two 20v cordless tool batteries wired in series. The 60v battery works for most 48 / 52v motors I've tested. On some bikes, like the Pedego's, I have to limit the charge to 90% to avoid an overvolt error.
Yep, the 350 watt Ecottric changed my mind, it came with enough controller and a robust enough battery it would assist up the steepest hills without cutting out on the other hand I had a 500 watt and 48-350 watt bikes that would stall on the steep hills it took a good controller to correct them.People have a tendency to get caught up in the "HP" race as Kev Central said" pay more attention to how it performs"( some of them will surprise you) I had a heavy Maxfoot cruiser( good bike) that had a 750 watt Bafang motor, it seemed to "punch above its weight" 85 nm, I found out later the controller was a 25 amp version.
Yes, just what we need. MORE choices !
