,.. A tiny pencil torch is what I use.

I use MAP ⛽
Way More Heat than propane.

Butane is boring.
Far less energy per ml. 😁


Sometimes I coat the offending bolt with linseed 🛢 🪔

That stuff fires up nicely. 😁

Camp fuel is still best for the explosion effect,..
 

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Seriously,
I LOVE This little butane torch.


20251003_190654.jpg


I can turn it WAY Down to get just a tiny bit of heat, when I don't want to melt anything or start a🔥


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I went to a trucker's supply store and picked up a (meth-head for the madness) crack-pipe torch from the bargain bin by check-out. It was five bucks.

As long as you can turn it down to a Tiny Flame.

But crack heads and ebike riders seem to want a throttle and a lighter that is FULL Blast ALL The time.

Sure, cranking it up to full snort and tossing out a 12" flame is COOL 😎,

But I want a flame (and throttle) that I can At Least turn down to Minimum if that's the way I want to use it at the time. !!!
 
This is a little on the expensive side,

On the cheaper side is a simple manually operated impact 🔨 for $20-$30

For something that's rarely used, a manually operated 🔨is the best bet.
(note the spiders nests. The 🔨 is from the mid 70's)

IMG-20190407-193414.jpg



And don't forget that Japanese JIS Bits are different than Philips Bits.


Phillips-vs-JIS-2.jpg



Some of the screws on my ebike are Philips, and some are JIS.
(Japanese Industrial Standard)


A JIS bit fits a Philips head OK, but a Philips bit Does Not fit a JIS screw head properly, and will strip it.


I didn't know about JIS screw heads when I changed the fuel filter/sending unit on my car.

I just thought the screw heads were all rotten from rust?

I actually Hammered a Phillips screwdriver into the JIS screws to reshape them and remove them.

A simple JIS 🪛 would have made everything Way Easier,..


IMG_20130506_135256_zps2d2f9d96.jpg
 
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On the cheaper side is a simple manually operated impact 🔨 for $20-$30

For something that's rarely used, a manually operated 🔨is the best bet.
(note the spiders nests. The 🔨 is from the mid 70's)
Mine isn't rarely used, but I am in IT. It works great on rack screws. I have only had to break out the full sized impact driver once since I bought it and it was a business expense at the time that I could write off.
 
On the cheaper side is a simple manually operated impact 🔨 for $20-$30

For something that's rarely used, a manually operated 🔨is the best bet.
(note the spiders nests. The 🔨 is from the mid 70's)

View attachment 212068


And don't forget that Japanese JIS Bits are different than Philips Bits.
I want to see you drive screws with that. make your arms look like Popeye. A deck would kill you.
 
Mine isn't rarely used, but I am in IT. It works great on rack screws. I have only had to break out the full sized impact driver once since I bought it and it was a business expense at the time that I could write off.
it does no look like it will fit your and as well though. its hard to make them smaller but to work well in your hands.
 
I want to see you drive screws with that. make your arms look like Popeye. A deck would kill you.

My impact hammer doesn't drive screws?
It only un-drives seized screws. (no switch)

It does work pretty good, and you can even use it on Tiny screws if you line everything up properly and don't Obliterate the screw head when you hammer on it.

Just like everything else.
A light touch may be all you need, but it has to be Straight Into the screw head to work properly.
The "rotational torque" is automatic. You just have to apply the correct downward force with the 🔨 hit.
 
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it does no look like it will fit your and as well though. its hard to make them smaller but to work well in your hands.
It is smaller and lighter than my bigger Makita impact driver. I can stuff it in my pocket or a belt holster that I have. Ergonomics don't matter that much if the screw comes out in a couple of seconds.
 
,.. Of course power tools own any manual tool.

Not if you've never used either.

If you want to strip a screw head or snap a bolt, then power tools are your best bet.

Especially if they only have full power or nothing at all as the choices available.

Just like American all or nuthin throttles and butane crack lighters.
 
Not if you've never used either.

If you want to strip a screw head or snap a bolt, then power tools are your best bet.

Especially if they only have full power or nothing at all as the choices available.

Just like American all or nuthin throttles and butane crack lighters.
That sounds like a skill issue. Get gud...
 
That sounds like a skill issue. Get gud...

I agree, but if @PedalUma were to attack those seized bolts with power tools, he'd only get gud on the last bolt then have five 2mm studs with no heads left to try to remove.

I like the manual approach when doing something for the first time on something that looks way too seized up.

I've worked on a lot of rusty crap.
Manual tools gave a better feel to them.


And to think of the number of JIS screw heads that I stripped using a Philips 🪛.

I thought it was just rust related loss of material.
The proper bit would have been Extremely Helpful. 😁
 

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I use MAP ⛽
Way More Heat than propane.

Butane is boring.
Far less energy per ml.
Yes well we won't be asking you to roast the marshmallows will we 😁

These are off an 700cc MC. Put your map torch onto these and you'll bubble all the paint off the rotor inner. You need very little heat to embrittle the loctite and it best be precisely applied, especially in pushbike stuff. Like a fine narrow point applied 'inside' the torx cavity so all the heat goes into the bolt and none onto the rotor itself. For serious stuff I use Oxy-Acetylene, you can get nuts redhot and bust the rust in no time, map gas is lame compared to that.

DISK BRAKE ROTOR NUTS.jpg
 
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