Chargeride
Well-Known Member
My Haibike had fancy red alloy caps, they just corroded and turning them pulled the valve out, buy plastic ones
Also a good idea to put valve caps on any valve, no matter what the Cool Kids say or do.
My Haibike had fancy red alloy caps, they just corroded and turning them pulled the valve out, buy plastic ones
Very interesting, Mike. I haven’t lowered my pressure that much as it hasn’t been necessary (yet), but thanks for the heads up. Makes sense. Besides what you’re saying, I’ve always felt Schrader is just fine… But, again, that makes sense.I really, really seriously doubt I am getting through to those MTB'ers and Fat Tired Bikers who venture off into deep sand...... or get outside with 4-6 inches of snow on the ground; but here goes:
An added bonus of a Presta tubed or Presta-tubeless set up is that the actual tire valve is held dead-center in the rim's valve stem hole. FYI: Going off road in deep sand or snow means "airing" down your tire pressure from say, 20 psi (hard road tire pressure) to anywhere from 4-9 psi off road. Those lower tire pressures present more of a tire patch in that deep stuff as well as allowing you to somewhat "float" on top of the deep sand.
If you lower tire pressure that much on a schrader, chances are real good the tube and valve can shift within the tire. And then you will have to get that valve stem centered back in the rim hole. And you know what that means, right? Trailside disassembly of the tire and tube! On the Presta tube, the valve stem is held right in the center by the locking nut. Winner winner, chicken dinner!
I've been reading Bicycling magazine since the 70's. Touring for about the same length of time. Bought the books on touring and bike set-up. With the advent of the internet, I've gone through most every site there is, from this one, to Bike Forums. Bike Packing. And others. This site here is the only one where I've come across possibly the last hard-core group of people who think schrader is the end-all, be all.
But as I said in my last post, to each, their own. But do read up a bit on why Presta has been around for so long in the bicycle world.
Same here. I decided to try them because about 50% of the time I have to use a tool to loosen the Presta valve top. I never over-tighten them, I just do it finger tight.I hope they're not a let down.
Missed it... this time...
I had never seen a Presta valve until I bought my Raleigh 10-speed ~1982.
He's not wrong, I don't like them at all, the nut seizes up and then when you try a bit more force the valve unscrews.
I didn't think it even had a valve core?
The three different valve cores next to each other
All my motorcycles had externally threaded metal Schrader stems. I put tubes like that on one e-bike. To me, the advantage is that it's easier to press on a chuck when the tube is deflated.If you lower tire pressure that much on a schrader, chances are real good the tube and valve can shift within the tire. And then you will have to get that valve stem centered back in the rim hole. And you know what that means, right? Trailside disassembly of the tire and tube! On the Presta tube, the valve stem is held right in the center by the locking nut. Winner winner, chicken dinner!
But as I said in my last post, to each, their own. But do read up a bit on why Presta has been around for so long in the bicycle world.
No, the brass-colored part at the top is the valve core. You undo the top nut a bit to let air in and out of the tire, because when it is in that position the valve is locked and can't leak (or admit) air. That whole assembly is simultaneously the greatest thing about Presta valves and their biggest weakness. If you look carefully at the inner part of the valve core it is flat on two sides, which lets you use a valve core tool to remove the whole assembly.This is what I'm remembering,..
View attachment 191204
Is that not a Presta valve without a valve core ??