Athena
New Member
I think the site you are referring to for FSA is https://www.fullspeedahead.com
SDURO Outer Chainring
- Thread starter rocky289
- Start date
Maybe, but it hasn't got my chainring on it.
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
Brooks
Active Member
Let me ask question Dave. Did you put Shimano E6000 crank arms on Yamaha PW motor? I am thinking of doing this to go to 170mm length but also reduce Q-factor. Do they fit without hitting the motor on the non-drive side.
bob armani
Well-Known Member
I have a similar setup on my 2018 Haibike Sduro Yamaha PW-X motor. They are 32-44T BCD104 with a 4 bolt pattern as referenced above.
Could you verify if these are the correct ones taken from the link below? Thanks a lot!
Haibike FSA Chainrings
Brooks
Active Member
That is indeed the replacement for the 44t ring. It's available here:
FSA Pro MTB 64/104mm Chainrings
FSA Pro MTB 64/104mm Chainrings :: From $17.00 :: FSA 64/104mm Chainrings
www.universalcycles.com
bob armani
Well-Known Member
So you are saying that the 44T is only available in Alloy? In addition, the listing you have referenced has "32t x 104mm - 4 bolt - Black Alloy" and not steel.That is indeed the replacement for the 44t ring. It's available here:
On my 2017 6.0 FullNine, my 32t ring is steel. The 44t will need replacing a lot sooner than the 32t.FSA Pro MTB 64/104mm Chainrings
FSA Pro MTB 64/104mm Chainrings :: From $17.00 :: FSA 64/104mm Chainrings
That is all what I am finding out in the market right now is Alloy.
Did you have to remove the bolt from the inner shaft to swap out the rings, or just the ring screws? Thanks a lot.
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Brooks
Active Member
Bob.... go to the link and scroll down.. you will see the 44t... and it is available. 44t comes in alloy as do all those rings.. 32t.. etc.
I'm just saying the oem 32t on my bike is steel... and I haven't found a steel replacement. I did buy the 44t alloy, but have not mounted it.. just wanted a spare, I have taken off the center spider on my bike... regular PW motor with square taper. Be careful if you do this.. the large nut holding the spider is reversed thread. You should not have to take off the spider to replace a ring. Just the 4 chainring bolts and you can get the rings off. The 44t is made out of 7000 series alloy, and this can be stronger than some cheaper steel rings... don't worry that it's alloy.
I'm just saying the oem 32t on my bike is steel... and I haven't found a steel replacement. I did buy the 44t alloy, but have not mounted it.. just wanted a spare, I have taken off the center spider on my bike... regular PW motor with square taper. Be careful if you do this.. the large nut holding the spider is reversed thread. You should not have to take off the spider to replace a ring. Just the 4 chainring bolts and you can get the rings off. The 44t is made out of 7000 series alloy, and this can be stronger than some cheaper steel rings... don't worry that it's alloy.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
And the pedal first
I totally agree to what Brooks has said. Use Loctite Blue on the bolts before re-tensioning, and be careful not to pull the thread (it happened to me!)
bob armani
Well-Known Member
Brooks- That is music to the ears. I have been researching this for hours on end, and was not aware the 7000 series alum was adequate strength for 80nm of torque. "I haven't found a steel replacement." Either have I! I can now go ahead with confidence and get all necessary parts to have on hand when needed. Looks like the Park Tool # CNW-2 is something that will be needed for the job as well. I currently have no plans to remove the spider. Just get at the rings and replace if necessary. I have a new chain being installed with a tune right now, so I want to make sure it will not make more noise with the new chain. I have read that sometimes a new chain with used chainrings can cause that. The rider reverted back to the old until they were ready change out everything.
It pays to shop for the rings. Some of the pricing is all over the place compared to FSA retail pricing. Thanks again.
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bob armani
Well-Known Member
Great advice. I also have a torque wrench, so perhaps I will make sure it is all to spec when finished. Did you have to use one on them after re-tensioning?And the pedal first
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
Yes, I did. There was some confusion related to tensioning torque of aluminium MTB chainring bolts. I guess it is only 5-7 Nm. I was recommended a higher value (10 Nm) and damaged two bolts in row... It had irritated me so much I ordered steel chainring bolts afterwards.
bob armani
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing the info. Sorry to hear about that nonsense. Delicate material indeed. I'll make a note of it.
BTW-I reached out to FSA today and there is some confusion regarding chainring part numbers with various sellers. They are selling identical rings posting different numbers ie: WA356 44T as #380-0644K 44T which is invalid according to FSA. Needs to be corrected.
Two more questions:
When ordering steel chainring bolts, does the description specify steel?
I was also curious when you replaced your chainrings; after how many miles/kilometers ridden?
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
It has to specify the material. It is rare to get steel chainring bolts.
Aluminium or STEEL chainring bolts for MTB offer
Take a note: Of four colours specified in the Amazon offer, only the "metallic" set is made of steel! (I bought bolts from precisely that offer):
Can't exactly remember. Perhaps 4000 km. The main reason for chainring replacement was my negligence about chain replacement in time. It wore both the small cogs in the cassette as well as the chainring. With regular chain wear measurement and replacement, the chainring should last far longer!
bob armani
Well-Known Member
A wealth of info here. Great! My thinking was to simply use the old ones if they do not snap of course. Not a bad idea to have these on hand before tackling the job. Good catch on the "steel" listing and good eye for details like these.
Same here, with my own negligence causing issues too early along with poor lubrication on my chain. There were very small metallic fragments found while doing some chain cleanings. Lesson learned. Appreciate your assistance Stephan!
bob armani
Well-Known Member
Update: After all this great research, I received a second opinion from the head mechanic at my LBS. Turns out that both of my chainrings are fine. The problem is the last 2 cogs (11T and 13T) are worn causing chain slipping while under load. The other cogs are working perfectly. This emerged more after the new chain was installed. In addition, these are the 2 cogs I use the most. My next dilemma is: Do I change out the 2 cogs only, or purchase an entire cassette replacement which would be the "SunRace 10spd 11-40T MS3" cassette. Common sense tells me to replace the entire cassette. Save the old for spare parts if ever needed.
I still plan on purchasing the FSR Chainrings to have on hand. Now, just waiting for parts.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
If you can buy spare cogs, go for it. Dimes vs. big dollar.
bob armani
Well-Known Member
Well by calculation, the 11t cog and 13t cog would be approx $10 dollars and $14 dollars respectively vs $55 dollars for an entire new cassette. Basically save 50% on parts and another $15 dollars installation if you go that route. My other concern is compatibility. Shimano with SunRace paired together?
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
Better don't. It is my gut feeling. Besides, can you have the whole cassette installed free? Bob, if you want the easy way, replace the cassette.
There could be some difference on the price of spare parts in Europe and the U.S. For instance, an EBR friend sent me spare cogs in a letter from Germany. Total cost was 16 Euro On the other hand, the HG-M7100, 12 s, 11-51T cassette cost me would 85 dollar here. It all depends.
My brother is an apt bike mechanic
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