Rover suspension and brake upgrades suggestions

[Fatzo]

Looking to upgrade stock suspension and brakes and need suggestions on figuring out which brand delivers the best performance for the price.
I am looking into Shimano 180mm hydraulic brakes on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015...5&keywords=shimano+180mm+hydraulic+brake+rear

What do you guys recommend?

 

[mrgold35]

I'm thinking about upgrading the the TRP HY/RD hydraulic brakes: https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1198&catid=206

It looks like plug-n-play using existing RR brake handles, no change to the hub motor cut-off system, and you use the same RR brake cables. I just haven't pulled the trigger yet.

 

[Fatzo]

It says 160mm on the site. Will this plug amd play with the current 180mm?

 

[mrgold35]

Another forum member did the upgrade on their Radrover. I asked for the web link they used and any additional hardware needed for the upgrade for 180mm rotors; but, they haven't responded yet: https://electricbikereview.com/foru...p-cable-actuated-hydraulic-disc-brakes.13858/

 

[Lost]

I'm thinking about upgrading the the TRP HY/RD hydraulic brakes: https://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1198&catid=206

It looks like plug-n-play using existing RR brake handles, no change to the hub motor cut-off system, and you use the same RR brake cables. I just haven't pulled the trigger yet.

I too looked into the HY/RD conversion. One huge caveat. They are designed for long pull / road type brake levers, and have read that putting them on mountain type bikes resulted in spongy and bottoming out brakes due to difference in brake lever design. If you do try them, please report back.

Here is what I replaced with on my Specialized Roll Sport, which has identical (I think) brakes to the rover except for the rotor size. (I changed that also!) http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGLE-TRP-SPYKE-REAR-NO-DISC-disc-brake-Dual-Side-Actuation-MTB-bike/152376587086?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
They have similar attributes of the hydraulic because they are dual acting. Stock calipers work by pushing a pad on one side and pinching it with the pad on the other side, and in doing so actually bend the rotor over slightly in use to complete the sandwich. These calipers squeeze equally on both sides keeping the rotor flat, and wear on each side even. I really like them, and they turned out to be a good choice.

Loving the Specialized Roll, so much that I never ride Rover anymore. Tried to sell Rover, that didn't work, so I will keep it at work and use it there. (130 miles away a week at a time) But Rover, like me, needs to go on a diet. Want to lose the useless fork on the front and go with one 3 or 4 pounds lighter and no suspension. I keep it locked stiff anyway.

 

[Ebikefevercure]

I know this is an old conversation but, I ordered the adaptors and discs for 203mm rotors for my rover. I have to really squeeze the levers for a good stop and this was cheap to try out.... Let you know how it goes. It was $16 each wheel... Also purchased organic pads, 2pairs $14.99, Ebay

 

[mrgold35]

I know this is an old conversation but, I ordered the adaptors and discs for 203mm rotors for my rover. I have to really squeeze the levers for a good stop and this was cheap to try out.... Let you know how it goes. It was $16 each wheel... Also purchased organic pads, 2pairs $14.99, Ebay

I ended up taking @Lost advice and went with the TRP Spyke calipers and replaced my brake cables with Jagwire. I was able to do both Radrovers for the price of just doing one with the hydraulic TRPs.

I had the same issue with the original Rad brakes of long stopping distances, constant adjustments, occasional metal squealing sounds, and brake cables strands breaking. I didn't feel confidant with original brakes in 15-20 mph emergency stopping distances because I would come to a slow stop instead of being able to lock the tires to avoid something. I don't think my Rover brake set-up was made for work commuting speeds of 18-22 mph and stopping +270 lbs (maybe +350 lbs if you include ebike+accessories+rack bag).

Very happy after 200 miles with Spyke/Jagwire combo. I can stop sooner, can lock my rear tire on paved roads if I want, and feels like it takes less effort to apply the brakes.

I would check into changing out the calipers/brake cables next if the new rotors+pads don't get you where you want to be.

 

[Ebikefevercure]

thanks! I was thinking, start small, and build from that. With the forums I've been reading people are unhappy with major purchases not adding up to the improvement they had hoped for or creating bigger issues. I also figured that if I am staying mechanical calipers, than 203mm should make a difference before I purchase hydraulic anything. I'm not sure if someone would need 203mm with hydraulic calipers/lines/levers...?... I've read other caveats about flipping the handlebars or snapping forks but, feathering the brakes has working for 30+ years without wash-out so,... We'll see how it goes. I'll look into the cable too.

 

[Lost]

I ended up taking @Lost advice and went with the TRP Spyke calipers and replaced my brake cables with Jagwire. I was able to do both Radrovers for the price of just doing one with the hydraulic TRPs.

I had the same issue with the original Rad brakes of long stopping distances, constant adjustments, occasional metal squealing sounds, and brake cables strands breaking. I didn't feel confidant with original brakes in 15-20 mph emergency stopping distances because I would come to a slow stop instead of being able to lock the tires to avoid something. I don't think my Rover brake set-up was made for work commuting speeds of 18-22 mph and stopping +270 lbs (maybe +350 lbs if you include ebike+accessories+rack bag).

Very happy after 200 miles with Spyke/Jagwire combo. I can stop sooner, can lock my rear tire on paved roads if I want, and feels like it takes less effort to apply the brakes.

I would check into changing out the calipers/brake cables next if the new rotors+pads don't get you where you want to be.

Did you change the wire itself, or the sheath also? Worried about fishing the sheath through the frame. Glad you like the Spyke, I think they are a great answer to hydraulic!

 

[mrgold35]

Did you change the wire itself, or the sheath also? Worried about fishing the sheath through the frame. Glad you like the Spyke, I think they are a great answer to hydraulic!

I just purchased the brake wire with no sheath. I was able to just pull the wire out from the handbrake side of the casing and thread the new Jagwire back and trim to length. Pretty much a 5 minute job if everything goes right. My rear brake wire had a few broken strands somewhere in the middle and they wedge in the sheath and the wire got stuck when I was pulling from the hand brake side. I clipped off the end that secures the brake wire to the hand brake and pulled with pliers from the rear brake end. Took a few hard tugs; but, the wire along with the broken strands came out. The Jagwire insert was very easy and smooth with zero broken strands to after final adjustments.