Riding Mid Drive on only highest gear

[username00101]

When riding my mid drive E bike, I find myself riding only on the highest gear when on flat surfaces. The difference being what level of peddle assist I'm on. I like this, because it has a low cadence. I dislike high RPM riding. With PAS1, and the highest gear, I can reliably stay above 20 miles per hour on flat surfaces. Without spinning too fast.

But I've been told that it's bad for the motor to stay constantly on the highest gear like this on flat surfaces. I was told that "lugging" is bad. Here's when I downshift: Only when it's a big hill, and it's obvious that things are going to get hard, will I downshift. But 90% of the rest of the time, I ride at the highest gear setting, on PAS1 so I keep my cadence down.

I find this easier just focusing on the assist level and not the gears. I do know that it's bad to not downshift before going from a dead stop/start.

So if this practice is bad. Should I never use the highest gear, unless I'm heading downhill or have very high cadence?

So give it to me straight.

Thanks.

 

[scrambler]

It is not bad, it just uses your motor a little more.
If your motor is weak and or of poor quality that extra strain could have some effect.
But most likely your motor is just fine with it.

Enjoy your bike the way you like it

 

[Gionnirocket]

When riding my mid drive E bike, I find myself riding only on the highest gear when on flat surfaces. The difference being what level of peddle assist I'm on. I like this, because it has a low cadence. I dislike high RPM riding. With PAS1, and the highest gear, I can reliably stay above 20 miles per hour on flat surfaces. Without spinning too fast.

But I've been told that it's bad for the motor to stay constantly on the highest gear like this on flat surfaces. I was told that "lugging" is bad. Here's when I downshift: Only when it's a big hill, and it's obvious that things are going to get hard, will I downshift. But 90% of the rest of the time, I ride at the highest gear setting, on PAS1 so I keep my cadence down.

I find this easier just focusing on the assist level and not the gears. I do know that it's bad to not downshift before going from a dead stop/start.

So if this practice is bad. Should I never use the highest gear, unless I'm heading downhill or have very high cadence?

So give it to me straight.

Thanks.

"lugging" is bad if you're loading the motor and drawing high current. Nothing wrong with lower rpms if you're mostly below 30-40% of the motors current rating. This means you need to do your part by pedaling and maybe choosing a lower gear when necessary.
One indication that your "lugging" is that the motor will get hot... so just check if your style is heating things up any.

 

[AHicks]

I think that some of this will have to with what you expect from the bike as far as how many miles you get on a charge, how much stop and go traffic you encounter where you are riding, and your performance expectations. If you're good to go on these factors, I would be curious how many watts the bike is drawing, and as long as that's kept withing reasonable limits, go for it!

 

[HillAversion]

Yeah, I suppose it depends on how much motor you've got. Regularly lugging the motor is a recipe for a shortened motor life.
I've got a 750 watt Bafang motor and I generally start in a middle gear and upshift to the highest gear once I get going. And of course I downshift for hills. I suppose I could run it in the highest gear all the time, but I think it'd be asking a lot of the motor. It's just a matter of being aware of when the motor might be laboring. Avoid that and you'll be okay.

 

[AHicks]

Good point. The bigger the motor, the less keeping it in the right gear is going to matter. Another might be chain wear? If he's running around in high, and that' on an 11t rear gear, safe bet chain wear will be an issue much sooner than later.

 

[MWRider]

Tacos?

 

[username00101]

"... It's just a matter of being aware of when the motor might be laboring. Avoid that and you'll be okay."

How exactly does one become "aware of when the motor might be laboring".

 

[fooferdoggie]

"... It's just a matter of being aware of when the motor might be laboring. Avoid that and you'll be okay."

How exactly does one become "aware of when the motor might be laboring".

the trail of smoke behind you?

 

[username00101]

I was looking for something exact on how to measure this. Anyone have suggestions on what exactly to look for?

My computer has a wattage output display. Should I just never let the motor on low RPM's on highest gear rise above the 600 watts that my motor is rated at?

 

[m@Robertson]

Lugging the motor is bad for it, and its bad for the drivetrain.

With a mid drive, any power that is not able to be used to create forward motion (let the motor spin) instead creates heat. Increased heat is bad as you are heading in the direction of burning out the motor. Might not mess it up, but its not a good thing unless you are trying to keep it warm in freezing weather or some other weird situation. Its unlikely to happen with a factory setup, but the more powerful motors can get so hot they risk 'peanut-buttering' their internal gears. Riding in 110 fahrenheit weather, I measured 165-degree casing temps on my BBSHD. God only knows how hot it was inside but its internal gears aren't good for that much more sustained temperature before they start getting soft and giving out.

Lugging the motor is bad for the drivetrain because if the motor is not spinning, its pulling like hell on the chain with all its might, and since the motor is still pulling hard, that increased strain on the chain is causing increased wear. This is a big part of how a mid drive can just wear things out fast, which is a common complaint... caused by doing exactly what you are describing.

Lugging the motor is bad for the drivetrain because the aforementioned increased torque on it can actually bend or break things. This is how chains snap and chainrings 'taco' themselves.

The short version of how to ride a mid drive without breaking anything is to 'keep the motor spinning'.

I was looking for something exact on how to measure this. Anyone have suggestions on what exactly to look for?

My computer has a wattage output display. Should I just never let the motor on low RPM's on highest gear rise above the 600 watts that my motor is rated at?

Fortunately a 600w motor is unlikely to taco a chainring. However, there's no telling offhand what its limits are when you are riding it hard like this - and effectively doing the thing that is worst-case for its long term survival (it is unknown if you are pushing it near or past its limits, or not at all. What your limits are differ by motor and type).

You need to know more and frankly all we can do here is opine on the consequences you will face, if any. Slap a sensor on the casing to see how hot its getting. If its staying cool-ish, then you have less to worry about. But also try putting that sensor in different places before declaring victory. On my BBSHDs, riding in the hot summer here, I needed to add heat sinks to the motor exterior to get its casing temp down into the 130's.

 

[rayray]

For me, riding in high gear all of the time would stress my knees too much, and I’m hoping to avoid further cartilage loss. Thus, I prefer to start in a lower gear, keeping my cadence in the 70’s minimum, and mostly 80’s or higher, unless I’m on a rare smell-the-roses ride.

 

[PedalUma]

Get some grippy pedals. Focus on pulling back and up, lightly and quickly. Use a fast swimming motion and stay away from slowly pounding down. Watch videos on how to pedal like a pro. Using these techniques are better for you and for your bike. It is not hard, it is actually easier when you do it right. Lugging is very bad. You will kill your bike and damage yourself. The poor bearings! You will create play in the cranks if you continue to do it wrong, then there is the cassette, chain and rear wheel bearings. That begins to add up fast for being hard and slow. Practice riding with only one foot at a time, that will smooth out your technique.

 

[PedalUma]

Oh, one final thing: Stomping slowly side-to-side will also surge your controller twice per revolution. Don't do that. It is very bad.

 

[AHicks]

I was looking for something exact on how to measure this. Anyone have suggestions on what exactly to look for?

My computer has a wattage output display. Should I just never let the motor on low RPM's on highest gear rise above the 600 watts that my motor is rated at?

That watt meter is the best "load" guide you or anyone else might have. It's an absolute indicator of what kind of load you have on your motor (as well as the rest of the drive train) at any given time - regardless of what gear you're in.Beyond that, no clue on the terrain you're riding, or what motor you have (important as some are much more forgiving than others).

Another factor might be how long you hold relatively high loads. Most bikes/motors are able to make a quick "sprint" for a minute or 2 at WAY above their maximum rating without damage, as long as they are given a several minute cool down prior to being asked to do that again. Point being, if you are on a 10 mile run while running at a relatively high load, most mid drives are going to get pretty warm inside, as despite their rating, that motor is buried inside the casings and it's not able to dissipate heat well enough for long highly loaded runs like that.

 

[tomjasz]

I suppose I could run it in the highest gear all the time, but I think it'd be asking a lot of the motor.

The enemy of all BBS01 and BBS02 motors. Heat! That said I’ve found I can run them all as 1 speed in 4th of 7 speed at 14-15mph all day long on flat streets. All bets are off when running larger than 44T chainrings.

 

[tomjasz]

That watt meter is the best "load" guide you or anyone else might have. It's an absolute indicator of what kind of load you have on your motor (as well as the rest of the drive train) at any given time - regardless of what gear you're in.

Exactly! That's how I first learned, in 2014, what stresses a 52T chainring had on my BBS01(a)B and BBS02(a)B

 

[PedalUma]

Ride the bike like you would drive a manual transmission Miada. Leaving it in high is like someone abusing a horse. Then blaming it when it collapses and dies. Focus on using your calves over your thighs to lightly spin. The hum of the motor should be continuous, not bursty.

 

[Gionnirocket]

The enemy of all BBS01 and BBS02 motors. Heat! That said I’ve found I can run them all as 1 speed in 4th of 7 speed at 14-15mph all day long on flat streets. All bets are off when running larger than 44T chainrings.

Ride the bike like you would drive a manual transmission Miada. Leaving it in high is like someone abusing a horse. Then blaming it when it collapses and dies. Focus on using your calves over your thighs to lightly spin. The hum of the motor should be continuous, not bursty.

I'm rolling with a 46t chain ring but no bursty... Is that ok?

 

[tomjasz]

Ride the bike like you would drive a manual transmission Miada. Leaving it in high is like someone abusing a horse. Then blaming it when it collapses and dies. Focus on using your calves over your thighs to lightly spin. The hum of the motor should be continuous, not bursty.

in other words, ride it like a geared bike! Who dead starts in 7th gear of a 7 speed? Oh wait...

I'm rolling with a 46t chain ring but no bursty... Is that ok?

sure, you smart enough to manage. Sadly you’re not atypical. 52T with a BBS02B with your brilliance a ought to be fine. Its the dullards that are the problem.