Replacing the drivetrain in Vado SL 4.0: Does it make sense?

I appreciate very much how our Specialized e-bikes allow us adjust to different ride types: One day a slow senior fellow, and strong and fast young people on another...
 
Well after 5600 miles I decided it would be ok to replace the cassette. Going just about one step down and getting the HG50 version of the 11-36T. It still shifts fine (I also replaced the chain at 4600 miles) but feel I've gotten enough use to justify replacing for the closer mid range ratios. I've always been aware of it but since Stefan brought it up it seems more annoying than before :).

Surprisingly the orignal tires are still usable tho the back is near the point where replacement will be mandatory.
 
Friends: Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!

Especially to @TS25 and @Allan47.7339. Guys, that CS-M770-10 cassette is miraculous! I went on a 4 km test ride this afternoon to find out I could maintain the tight cadence of 80-83 rpm all the time, including an overpass climb (the latter done in Turbo and 3rd gear). I have found I mostly stay in gears 6th-8th, which is also good for keeping the chain line straight.

If we ever will have a chance to meet, I owe you the best craft beer I can get! (Oh, TS25 might prefer German Lager, haha) :D

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The old and the new cassette.

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Post the test ride.


@Dallant: Just a word for you. Competing bike manufacturers typically offer similar drive-train solutions for similar bikes. The bike price typically reflects the level of componentry (so called groupset, and number of gears) used. Unfortunately, there is no "one size fits all". Even if the stock cassette is decent, a demanding cyclist can upgrade their bike to satisfy specific needs. That's all.
 
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I have no idea how many mid-drive torque sensor motors you come into contact with and work on weekly, 3, 5, 12? But regardless of the number per week, why don’t you take one apart to see how it works? Then use your soldering iron to gently remove all the delimiting bits from the mother board. After that you can reprogram the firmware to optimize the system for your needs so you have adequate power and do not ever need to hunt for a gear. That is what the Right to Repair is all about. Empowering Stefan because he OWNS his bike. I am glad you like the current gearing.
 
I have no idea how many mid-drive torque sensor motors you come into contact with and work on weekly, 3, 5, 12? But regardless of the number per week, why don’t you take one apart to see how it works? Then use your soldering iron to gently remove all the delimiting bits from the mother board. After that you can reprogram the firmware to optimize the system for your needs so you have adequate power and do not ever need to hunt for a gear. That is what the Right to Repair is all about. Empowering Stefan because he OWNS his bike. I am glad you like the current gearing.
I have no idea what the drivetrain gearing ratio/cadence has in common with the torque motor sensor. Are you only working with fixies, Uma?

I suggest you buy a $5000 brand new e-bike from one of the Big Three e-bike brands and then apply all the actions you're suggesting yourself. If that's too expensive for you, buy yourself a new iPhone and apply your soldering iron to it to improve its performance. That's basically all about what you are suggesting.
That is what the Right to Repair is all about.

There is something known as a Warranty. Probably not in your world.
 
How much do they cost ?
I went with the CN-9100 with 126 links at 57 USD ea online. The bike comes with CN-7100 (mid 30's USD) and I assumed the XTR might be more durable. The 12 speed 126 link chains were a little harder to find at the time but not as hard as it is right now. I'm still on my original chain since I ride the ebike about 1/4 to 1/3 of the time.
 
I went with the CN-9100 with 126 links at 57 USD ea online. The bike comes with CN-7100 (mid 30's USD) and I assumed the XTR might be more durable. The 12 speed 126 link chains were a little harder to find at the time but not as hard as it is right now. I'm still on my original chain since I ride the ebike about 1/4 to 1/3 of the time.
Thanks! I couldn’t find CN-M9100 with 126 links, but they have 138. ¥6000 ($54) tax & shipping included. However I could also find the original SLX CN-M7100 126L for ¥2600 ($23.75) tax + shipping included on Yahoo Shopping so I’m going for a couple of those. At that price it’s probably stupid to pay ¥3000 for the imported chain lubes being talked about in the chain maintenance thread. I noticed they come with quick links too. Now I’m thinking to just periodically swap the chain out for cleaning and lubrication, keeping 3 in a rolling inventory. I don’t have a good place to use a chain cleaner device on the bike.
 
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