Replacing The Coin Battery In the Specialized SL TCU Gen 1

It turns out Stefan, that I misunderstood you. I do have the type that needs to be changed but does the below mean that the bike will still work? Or have I got it completely wrong?

The function of the Turbo bike as such will not be affected. These are the effects of an empty coin cell:

  • TCU will show corresponding message (see below)
  • Bike needs to be started with a longer button-press on the TCU
  • Error/event logs cannot be saved with correct date/time stamps any longer
When the date/time association is disabled due to an empty coin cell, you need to replace it with a new one and connect to the Specialized app so that the correct date and time is applied again.
 
Just to report back. I took Stefan's advice and coaxed the battery out with a sewing needle, then used eyelash tweezers to grab it when it was half way out. Much easier than I imagined fortunately! :)
 
I just had to replace the battery on the original TCU as well for my Vado SL. I read about all the trouble people had getting the battery out, including unplugging the TCU completely and tapping it to get the battery out. I had a non-magnetic metal angled tweezer with very sharp tips like the one on the right in the photo. I was able to grab the battery with no problem, slide the new one in and push on it gently with the tweezer until it snaps in. By the way, the video online for the Creo battery replacement says a T9 Torx screwdriver, but the Vado SL needs a T-10 Torx screwdriver.
 

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There’s a YouTube video and if you follow that, it’s so easy.

Pull the TCU further out of the frame and you’ll see two connectors. Unplug those, turn the TCU upside down and while depressing the battery catch, tap the TCU on your palm. The battery will fall out.

Reconnecting the plugs is simple, they are different and color coded, with a locating nub inside them.
 
Tapping the battery out is the way to go. HOWEVER, make sure you move the little tab out of the way before you start tapping. So do the first few taps while holding the tab down. When the tab stays down by itself, tap a little harder and the battery should just slide out.
 
Here's what I was able to do and it worked well and quickly on my '21 SL5 with 1500 miles:
1. Made sure I had a good 1620 battery - Even though they are still sealed in retail packages, they are sometimes dead when you break them out of their polyethylene prison.
2. Grabbed a pi\air of my wife's make=up tweezers (I think they are eyebrow tweezers. Very Sharp and angled at the end.
3. Covered the ends of the tweezer with scotch tape - folded over each and trimmed to 1/16" on the sides.
4. Grabbed a dental pick, but that was too thick, Had an old pick from a watch kit, so used that, but turns out I didn't really need it.
5. Torx T10 and remove screw for TCU cover
6. replace screw in hole loosely
7. Unplug TCU from harness (GENTLY)
8. Take TCU into house with better light and workbench for elbows :)
9. Using shielded tweezers, squeezed metal clip that holds the battery, up, and it clicked and seemed to lock in place.
10. Used slim watch prong gently on side of battery to spin slightly. Battery spun easily.
11. Flipped TCU so battery port opening was upside down and pounded my palms together while holding TCU in my hand and battery started to come out.
12. Gently pounded my palms together 1x again and the battery was about 1/4 out - enough to grab it with the shielded tweezers and gently pull it out.
Honestly, at first, I felt like I was taking apart an atom bomb Fone SEV, with all the warning about shorting the battery and TCU out. But it woorked out fine and went back together even easier.
Best Wishes everyone!!!
Great news to see bike works
 
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