If only US military secrets were as secure!HI Everyone I took the pry off the rear cover approach. Tried the tweezer approach, didn't work, tweezers were too flimsy. With an exacto pry up each clip on the back cover to release the lid, then lift up and go to the next of the 3 clips, kind of a 3-handed job. Then pop the cover, which is held down with adhesive. This exposes the back of the battery which I use the pointy edge of dig into the batter enough to push it out while holding down the metal retainer tab in the front. The adhesive did hold but the clips look distressed.
If I did this again I would take a straight pin approach and bend the tip enough to act as a claw to pull that edge of the casing on the battery, there is a lip that could be grabbed.
But in the end, the bike fired up and it's on the road again.
What led me to replace the battery was the bike was stored in the garage for the winter, and it wouldn't turn on. I charged it, and the light came on and seemed brighter but wouldn't stay on. This lead me to find out that the battery needed to be changed in the TCU. So yes, your bike won't work. You could do a field change with the right tools and a good dose of luck. What concerned me when I unplugged the connectors was how frail the wires are., Be very careful when plugging it back in. Kind of like installing a CPU in a motherboard all those little pins, and yes I've bent them.As a Spesh-curious, I'd like to know does this render the bike inoperable until the batterty is replaced? doesn't seem like something you'd want to attempt as a field repair..