Removing rear wheel

[Chuck E. Cheese]

On the Juiced site they sell a toolkit for working on their bikes. I already have all of the tools in the kit except for the lug wrench with a cutout to allow the motor cable to pass through. Is this wrench absolutely necessary to remove the rear wheel, or can I get by with an open-end or adjustable wrench? Is that specific wrench available elsewhere? Thanks.

 

[Reid]

On the Juiced site they sell a toolkit for working on their bikes. I already have all of the tools in the kit except for the lug wrench with a cutout to allow the motor cable to pass through. Is this wrench absolutely necessary to remove the rear wheel, or can I get by with an open-end or adjustable wrench? Is that specific wrench available elsewhere? Thanks.

This or similar

works supremely well after grinding for clearance.

It really needs to be done with a bench grinder or similar while near the bike so you can check the fit as it gets closer.

It must be a full body fit or flats will be rounded.

There are other ways: get the Juiced special wrench or a set of pass-through, external drive sockets that includes an 18mm.

 

[Chuck E. Cheese]

Thanks!

 

[SlowRider]

This or similar
View attachment 21784

works supremely well after grinding for clearance.

It really needs to be done with a bench grinder or similar while near the bike so you can check the fit as it gets closer.

It must be a full body fit or flats will be rounded.

There are other ways: get the Juiced special wrench or a set of pass-through, external drive sockets that includes an 18mm.

i used the exact same offset wrench but didn’t have to grind anything. The tool worked perfectly fine as is for me.

 

[hurricane56]

I just use a small crescent wrench.

 

[Reid]

I just use a small crescent wrench.

A funny old bird is the pelican.
It can hold more in its beak than its belly can.

It can hold it its beak enough food for a week

I just use a small crescent wrench.

But I'll be damned if I see how the hell he can.

 

[Chuck E. Cheese]

@Reid- I hope you’re removing the wheel to replace that fire-waiting-to-happen power cable...

 

[Fildil]

I bought a deep socket and used a bench grinder to open up the side of the socket. This allows me to use my torque wrench to meet JB’S SPEC OF 45 NM.

 

[Reid]

@Reid- I hope you’re removing the wheel to replace that fire-waiting-to-happen power cable...

That is just elastic wrap atop the stock, spring-protected cable in new condition.

 

[Asher]

Juiced has been out of stock every time I've checked for months, on the relevant tools.

 

[Reid]

I bought a deep socket and used a bench grinder to open up the side of the socket. This allows me to use my torque wrench to meet JB’S SPEC OF 45 NM.


View attachment 22342

Brilliant!!!

 

[Chris Hammond]

So I finally removed my rear wheel for the first time over the weekend. I honestly didn't think the job was very hard, or time consuming. Certainly not as easy as a regular bike, but really not that bad. I added the 18mm offset box wrench to my bike tool kit in case I need to do this on the road.
I did finish the tubeless conversion on my bike as well, this was the reason for removing the tire.
I learned a lot doing the front tire, so the rear went really well. I was able to seat the tire bead immediately by having the valve core removed, and no leaking around the valve stem after using the tubeless sealant on the stem prior to putting it on the wheel.
Hopefully after this I won't have any flats during my commute anyway.
If you are interested, this is the kit I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6SJK...olid=2BZ2FENQ5Q1TP&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
The rim tape initially seemed just a hair too wide, but putting it down and stretching slightly while dragging around the wheel, its actually perfectly sized for the stock wheels.

 

[john peck]

Special wrench not necessary, still a bit of an ordeal to change a tire. Gotta turn it upside down & be careful to
protect the display, etc. Easier with practice.

 

[Reid]

So I finally removed my rear wheel for the first time over the weekend. I honestly didn't think the job was very hard, or time consuming. Certainly not as easy as a regular bike, but really not that bad. I added the 18mm offset box wrench to my bike tool kit in case I need to do this on the road.
I did finish the tubeless conversion on my bike as well, this was the reason for removing the tire.
I learned a lot doing the front tire, so the rear went really well. I was able to seat the tire bead immediately by having the valve core removed, and no leaking around the valve stem after using the tubeless sealant on the stem prior to putting it on the wheel.
Hopefully after this I won't have any flats during my commute anyway.
If you are interested, this is the kit I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DD6SJK...olid=2BZ2FENQ5Q1TP&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
The rim tape initially seemed just a hair too wide, but putting it down and stretching slightly while dragging around the wheel, its actually perfectly sized for the stock wheels.

Bravo, Chris. I would only suggest that the wider tape would be better. It's a bit more fiddly to stretch and place between the bead hooks, but 24mm will fit. Just over 26mm will in fact, fit, and positively prevent any creep of the tape margin into the covered spoke holes.

Regardless, KUDOS. You will likely never have a flat again.