Removing Disc Brake Rotor - Rear wheel

Fred

Active Member
I am trying to remove the rear disc brake rotor, something I have bever done before. Just wondering if anyone has any tips? I was trying to use an Allen wrench, but after viewing a YouTube video, I believe it should be a T25 Torx. Can anyone confirm that? I'm also guessing there may be blue threadlocker on it, so applying heat should help loosen that?

Any other suggestions welcome.
 
I am trying to remove the rear disc brake rotor, something I have bever done before. Just wondering if anyone has any tips? I was trying to use an Allen wrench, but after viewing a YouTube video, I believe it should be a T25 Torx. Can anyone confirm that? I'm also guessing there may be blue threadlocker on it, so applying heat should help loosen that?

Any other suggestions welcome.
yep t25. I would try the right wrench first. usually they are not too much of an issue but they will be tight.
 
Loosen each bolt gently in a pattern. As you would in drawing a star, but this is six-bolt so the pattern is two triangles. After each torx cap screw head has been turned about a quarter turn the the whole thing can be removed. Then install the new one in a pattern gently and evenly tightening. You do not want to warp rotors. Blue thread lock will help. Clean the disc with acetone or nail polish remover after installation. Apply slight pressure to the brake lever with a rubber band when tightening the axle.
 
I usually use my cordless impact driver to remove the screws. then I use it to put them in and tighten by hand. sure lover center lock discs so much easier.
 
The other day. I had one of those torx screws strip its head in a hub. I drilled it out, not thinking about the stub. Arrgh, I should have cut a slot in the head for a flat bladed scredriver. Lucky for me I was able to remove the stub with an EZ-out.

I even have a cordless impact driver. Never have used it because I forget I have it.
 
The other day. I had one of those torx screws strip its head in a hub. I drilled it out, not thinking about the stub. Arrgh, I should have cut a slot in the head for a flat bladed scredriver. Lucky for me I was able to remove the stub with an EZ-out.

I even have a cordless impact driver. Never have used it because I forget I have it.
they are treat at getting stubborn things out with less damage. its all I use to drive screws. thats about the only place I would use it on a bike though.
 
If the proper sized torx bit stripped the head, a flat blade screwdriver wouldn't stand a chance!
Why bother to build a bike with cheap bolts? What a pain for saving less than 5 cents. Nexus axle nuts strip all the time. If you tighten them enough to hold chain tension, they are toast.
 
People bring me bikes that have frozen bottom brackets. You are exactly correct. Heat it up and when it contracts the oil goes in.
1642637701993.jpeg

A tough bolt requires patience... A little penetrating oil, time and then a heat gun works wonders.
 
Back