Realistic mileage for Neo 36v 9amp models

[biknut]

Is the big battery interchangeable with the 9ah?

 

[Craig Morrison]

A 36v 12ah was standard on my Neo Carbon and I have run both 9ah and 12ah without any problems, however I think you may have to upgrade the controller if your bike shipped standard with a 9ah.

I have ordered a 48v 9ah as others have experienced a higher speed (but less distance of course) without any controller changes. Will report on it as soon as I receive it.

 

[biknut]

I was just reading that the Carbon apparently comes with a 36v, 9ah, but a 12ah is optional. I assume it's also 36v. My son just bought a new Carbon somewhere online for $2900 shipped, so I was just studying up on them..

 

[Craig Morrison]

I assume it depends on the country. What I know is that the 2014 models in Australia and Europe shipped with 36v 12ah. 36v is standard for the 350w motor. The 12ah will give you more miles/km between charges.

Your son has made a good choice, so far I've covered 1,600km on my carbon and still smiling...

 

[Peter]

You can swap between 9 and 12 ah on any Neo 36V bikes.
I have a 9ah Jumper and a 12ah Race. I have often swapped their batteries.

 

[biknut]

You can swap between 9 and 12 ah on any Neo 36V bikes.
I have a 9ah Jumper and a 12ah Race. I have often swapped their batteries.

When you swap battery's does it mess up your computer calibration?

 

[Peter]

Nope

 

[biknut]

Nope

Thanks, my son is getting a new Carbon, and will be happy to hear this. I'm the one that will have to work on it though.

 

[Peter]

If you now now you want higher top speed then order the carbon without the 36v battery but with a black Nitro battery. On the outside they are totalky alike.

 

[mamerc]

Jumper 9amp loses 1 bar at 3.5 miles 2 after 7 miles, using my wifes 12amp Jet battery on the bike, 7 miles only lost 1 bar

 

[mamerc]

Need to update that last post, 12 amp doesn't seem to matter, I have been riding trails on throttle and kicking the motor on when needed, 30 mile run down the Santa Ana River Bike Trail only cost me 1 bar. back to running with my 9amp. I ride 4 miles each way to work every day, come home with 2 bars gone, do a quick 1 hour charge back to full bars every night. not too sure if thats bad for battery life or not.

 

[biknut]

Need to update that last post, 12 amp doesn't seem to matter, I have been riding trails on throttle and kicking the motor on when needed, 30 mile run down the Santa Ana River Bike Trail only cost me 1 bar. back to running with my 9amp. I ride 4 miles each way to work every day, come home with 2 bars gone, do a quick 1 hour charge back to full bars every night. not too sure if thats bad for battery life or not.

A lot of shallow charges are supposedly better than deep charges

 

[Bella]

Can anyone tell me the exact mileage of neo 36v?

 

[Peter]

Euroversion Race.
Eco 216 km.
Boost. 84 km.
Tested on flat back country roads with almost no stops.
My weight is 70 kgs. 12 amh battery.

Same test on Jumper in boost. 42 kms. 9 amh battery.

 

[PowerMe]

How can there be such discrepancy in distances achieved when the weight of the participants is within, say, 20 lbs of each other, and the terrain ridden seems to be somewhat similar in that there are a mixture of some hills and some flat areas. Some people report they lose 1 bar for every 4 miles ridden. Someone else reports they lost 1 bar for every 12 miles ridden (same size battery), and both people are reporting they used a similar level of assist on the bike?

The bike I'm purchasing (the Evo Street, 350w bike, which weighs 57 lbs, and is an urban cruiser) claims a possible distance up to 60 miles. Obviously that would be on the lowest level of assist with active pedaling and probably on fairly flattish terrain and starting with a fully charged battery. But if I were only getting 20 miles on the lowest level of assist, with active pedaling, and fairly flattish terrain, with a charged battery, I'd feel like I'd been lied to.

 

[Mtnm]

How can there be such discrepancy in distances achieved when the weight of the participants is within, say, 20 lbs of each other, and the terrain ridden seems to be somewhat similar in that there are a mixture of some hills and some flat areas. Some people report they lose 1 bar for every 4 miles ridden. Someone else reports they lost 1 bar for every 12 miles ridden (same size battery), and both people are reporting they used a similar level of assist on the bike?

The bike I'm purchasing (the Evo Street, 350w bike, which weighs 57 lbs, and is an urban cruiser) claims a possible distance up to 60 miles. Obviously that would be on the lowest level of assist with active pedaling and probably on fairly flattish terrain and starting with a fully charged battery. But if I were only getting 20 miles on the lowest level of assist, with active pedaling, and fairly flattish terrain, with a charged battery, I'd feel like I'd been lied to.

A good question.
On my jumper (2013 version maybe?) I can get around 10 miles using the 9Ah and around 12 miles using the 12 Ah.
But this is on single track with elevation change of around 1200 ft, averaging around 12-14 mph, with a rider weight of about 200 lbs. (@ 18 km dist, 350m elevation change, 19 km/h, 91 kg).
This is in eco mode.
I'd be happy with less boost and more distance, but there does not seem to be any way to accomplish this.

But it is fun. Good luck.

Mike
Colorado, USA

 

[Lenny]

How can there be such discrepancy in distances achieved when the weight of the participants is within, say, 20 lbs of each other, and the terrain ridden seems to be somewhat similar in that there are a mixture of some hills and some flat areas. Some people report they lose 1 bar for every 4 miles ridden. Someone else reports they lost 1 bar for every 12 miles ridden (same size battery), and both people are reporting they used a similar level of assist on the bike?

The bike I'm purchasing (the Evo Street, 350w bike, which weighs 57 lbs, and is an urban cruiser) claims a possible distance up to 60 miles. Obviously that would be on the lowest level of assist with active pedaling and probably on fairly flattish terrain and starting with a fully charged battery. But if I were only getting 20 miles on the lowest level of assist, with active pedaling, and fairly flattish terrain, with a charged battery, I'd feel like I'd been lied to.

Charge density of cells used in 9Ah battery is smaller compared to 12Ah, you get better C-rating and longer range on a 12Ah battery.
The Evo 12Ah batteries are 0.5 pounds lighter than Neo 12Ah batteries.

 

[Ann M.]

A good question.
On my jumper (2013 version maybe?) I can get around 10 miles using the 9Ah and around 12 miles using the 12 Ah.
But this is on single track with elevation change of around 1200 ft, averaging around 12-14 mph, with a rider weight of about 200 lbs. (@ 18 km dist, 350m elevation change, 19 km/h, 91 kg).
This is in eco mode.
I'd be happy with less boost and more distance, but there does not seem to be any way to accomplish this.

But it is fun. Good luck.

Mike
Colorado, USA

Think of it like this: a 36V 12ah LiIon battery is 30 bigger than the 36V 9ah and you may also be looking at different amounts of power density based on the type/quality of cells used inside the battery. The manufacturers base range on totally flat ground and generally with a person weighing about 170-180lbs. Any incline requires more energy and we see underinflated tires as a regular problem contributing to low range issues. The tire width and composition along with pressure will measure into rolling resistance that affects range. Its not common; however, you could have a battery with a weak cell group which would lower range, but your LBS would need to confirm this.

 

[JoePah]

If you can fit a 12ah battery go for it.. Batteries degrade around 10% per year, so that extra capacity could be the difference between buying a new battery after 3 years vs longer.. Plus the extra range is great to have when new.

 

[Mtnm]

Think of it like this: a 36V 12ah LiIon battery is 30 bigger than the 36V 9ah and you may also be looking at different amounts of power density based on the type/quality of cells used inside the battery. The manufacturers base range on totally flat ground and generally with a person weighing about 170-180lbs. Any incline requires more energy and we see underinflated tires as a regular problem contributing to low range issues. The tire width and composition along with pressure will measure into rolling resistance that affects range. Its not common; however, you could have a battery with a weak cell group which would lower range, but your LBS would need to confirm this.

Just to clarify a point, the change is roughly 30% greater. (Energy in joules = voltage x amp hr x 3600)
I did encounter difficulties when changing to the 12 Ah battery, which Kyle and Chris Nolte were eventually able to help me solve (thanks guys).
In my case the prime limit on range is my desire to climb hills and the use of the widest possible tires (2.3") with high traction.
The greatest help would be an option for less boost.

Mike
Colorado