Re-greasing the Ultra motor...is it time?

[Deacon Blues]

It looks like you've got more room between the top of the motor and the frame, compared to my UC Pro.

 

[Tom@WashDC]

Ok.... My turn @ 1400mi.
First try I had to retreat as the chain ring lock nut wouldn't budge and after 10 minutes of putting all my spaghetti arms had in them.. I warped the p.o.s flat wrench that Bafang provides with the BBS02B.
Ordered this 1/2 drive Socket
View attachment 170603 which arrived in 10 days and I spun off the lock nut in 5 seconds.
View attachment 170594
There was fair amount of factory grease.... at least more than I've seen in other pics. View attachment 170597
Cleaned it up nicey nice... View attachment 170595
I'd say I added back about double the factory amount. Basically I lightly coated all surfaces and packed between the teeth of all the gears. I used Mobil SHC100 because I had almost a full tube on hand left over from my BBS02B. Additionally I've read it's similar to the factory grease and less chance of contamination from grease incompatibility if any remnants exist.
My gasket looked just as good as the two replacement ones I had on hand so I didn't change it this time around.

One things no one mentioned in any of the videos I watched...
Careful with this ring that sits on top of the large gear bearing as it's delicate. Mine fell off when I split the case leaving me not sure where it went.
View attachment 170600
On assembly I sat it on the controller side and held it in place with a thin coating of grease.

View attachment 170601

Now for the results...
I went for about a 20mi ride and it was noticeably smoother with less micro vibrations. As for the noise that too was noticeably less, especially at low power output.. Almost silent say below 100w. At higher output the sound changed to a deeper more pleasing tone then before but was still pretty audible. Went from a GRrrr sound to more of a RRrrr sound. Or from a super charged electric can opener to a high end stand mixer.
Didn't get arrested during any of this.... So I guess it was time well spent

Why is your frame so damned clean!

 

[Gionnirocket]

It looks like you've got more room between the top of the motor and the frame, compared to my UC Pro.

Yeah it wasn't too bad.
The only obstacle was the internally routed Rohloff shift cables and rear brake line that pass through the space as well. Had to keep wiggling all as I pushed it into place. Got some long/thin screw drivers through the bolt holes first which allowed me to take my time.

Why is your frame so damned clean!

I always try wash it before take things apart. I find it makes it easier to work on things. Real cold now, I had to pass a hose from the laundry room slop sink outside to gets me some hot water out there.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Why is your frame so damned clean!

Because he's better than you and maintains such a rare and rather valuable bike appropriately?
Your turn: Why is your (imaginary) bike so ethereal, vague and intangible ?
Fn'F

 

[Gionnirocket]

Because he's better than you and maintains such a rare and rather valuable bike appropriately?
Your turn: Why is your (imaginary) bike so ethereal, vague and intangible ?
Fn'F

Sounds like you've been freebasing your chain/ gear lube, suspended in a high molecular weight refined paraffin carrier again.

 

[tomjasz]

I tried out the new quieter gears from Green Bike Kit. My results are over here:
https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/m620-new-quieter-gear-comparison.54786/

Pulling the rotor is like pulling teeth - the magnets are super strong. Calibrating the rotor with the fully cracked X1 Tool was simple - just click the button.

Hot water bath for easier removal on BBSxx

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to try the new rotor and third gear.

I tried out the new quieter gears from Green Bike Kit. My results are over here:
https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/m620-new-quieter-gear-comparison.54786/

Pulling the rotor is like pulling teeth - the magnets are super strong. Calibrating the rotor with the fully cracked X1 Tool was simple - just click the button.

TY. Going there now - hoping you documented the menu sequence for synchronizing the rotor.
Those gears and a correct (Li stearate base) lubricant, motor should withstand +3000 miles of normal use.
In the Spring, new G510 delivered using 'wet-sump', splash lube system.
Gen 1 might leak a bit. lol. Depends on bearing seals.

Thanks again,

Fn'F

 

[Rome]

Ii you have the avocado coloured grease in your M620. Best to re grease it with red grease. My 1st ultra M620 I waited 3000 miles to lube and I ended up having to rebuild with new gears the rattle and high pitch noise of dry gear drive was too loud..

 

[Gionnirocket]

Ii you have the avocado coloured grease in your M620. Best to re grease it with red grease. My 1st ultra M620 I waited 3000 miles to lube and I ended up having to rebuild with new gears the rattle and high pitch noise of dry gear drive was too loud..

And don't mix them or you'll end up with salsa in there!

 

[Deacon Blues]

Yeah it wasn't too bad.
The only obstacle was the internally routed Rohloff shift cables and rear brake line that pass through the space as well. Had to keep wiggling all as I pushed it into place. Got some long/thin screw drivers through the bolt holes first which allowed me to take my time.

I wish Pushkar had designed the UC Pro frame with a half an inch more motor clearance. It would have made a world of difference when installing the motor.

Side note: I recently came across a Chinese company (Waltly) that makes a custom titanium frame that is very similar to the WW's UC Pro frame.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Oh, yes I'm following your advice. Using MOBIL 1 Synthetic Grease (121070). Is the 121071 Red any different?
Best I can tell, this motor sounds about the same as new. Just under 1000miles. No clicking.
Should be 1400 - 1500miles, but no riding (or much of anything else) for last few months due to an eye problem.
Now, I can see again but the real El Nino is hitting us. Looks like 5-inches of rain this week.

That's what under 2-inches did to Commercial Ave last week.
Not wasting time, I've created a (modified) M8000 8speed (12 x 28t) that eliminates M620 chain-line wear issues - if I can live w/ 28T low gear x 52t ring-gear.
Everyone trying to solve the chain-line issue moves the ring out, not the cogs in.
Because it requires an Archer D1x electronic shifter, this will never be a mainstream fix.
The M1 Red also appears to be a good lube for Gumbo's hubs. My freewheeler feels like it was never lubed.
I'll tear down soon, right after my Hub Drive's finished up. That bike's allowed 'limited water' exposure, but the torque sensor is still a bit vulnerable.
This has been a very informative thread, full of sound information from people that learned the hard way.
Thank you all. I'm tiring of being the crash-dummy.

Fn'F

 

[Gionnirocket]

I wish Pushkar had designed the UC Pro frame with a half an inch more motor clearance. It would have made a world of difference when installing the motor.

Side note: I recently came across a Chinese company (Waltly) that makes a custom titanium frame that is very similar to the WW's UC Pro frame.

As an electrician in a former life... I couldn't agree more.
I used to curse manufactures that left no practical room to work on things. Most times it can easily be done at no extra cost or sacrifice to appearance.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Ok.... My turn @ 1400mi.
First try I had to retreat as the chain ring lock nut wouldn't budge and after 10 minutes of putting all my spaghetti arms had in them.. I warped the p.o.s flat wrench that Bafang provides with the BBS02B.
Ordered this 1/2 drive Socket
View attachment 170603
which arrived in 10 days and I spun off the lock nut in 5 seconds.

View attachment 170594

There was fair amount of factory grease.... at least more than I've seen in other pics. View attachment 170597

Cleaned it up nicey nice... View attachment 170595
I'd say I added back about double the factory amount. Basically I lightly coated all surfaces and packed between the teeth of all the gears. I used Mobil SHC100 because I had almost a full tube on hand left over from my BBS02B. Additionally I've read it's similar to the factory grease and less chance of contamination from grease incompatibility if any remnants exist.
My gasket looked just as good as the two replacement ones I had on hand so I didn't change it this time around.

One things no one mentioned in any of the videos I watched...
Careful with this ring that sits on top of the large gear bearing as it's delicate. Mine fell off when I split the case open leaving me not sure where it went.
View attachment 170600

On assembly I sat it on the controller side and held it in place with a thin coating of grease.
View attachment 170601

Now for the results...
I went for about a 20mi ride and it was noticeably smoother with less micro vibrations. As for the noise that too was noticeably less, especially at low power output.. Almost silent say below 100w. At higher output the sound changed to a deeper more pleasing tone then before but was still pretty audible. Went from a GRrrr sound to more of a RRrrr sound. Or from a super charged electric can opener to a high end stand mixer.
Didn't get arrested during any of this.... So I guess it was time well spent

100mi Update:
Things have quieted down additionally quite a bit across the output range.
I guess adjacent teeth needed to reunite after being pulled apart.
I'd say from the original noise level things are about 50% quieter and with a much lower more pleasing tone. Everything feels really smooth.
Not sure how this compares to Cornhead and/or over packing it.. But with the controller electronics barrier being what it is and the Cornhead described as thinning/flowing at speed, I'm not inclined to try it.
As of now.. the SHC100 results are more than acceptable to me.

 

[Csubi]

Just got my Hydra! Still putting it together. Should I grease the motor before her maiden voyage??

 

[Gionnirocket]

Just got my Hydra! Still putting it together. Should I grease the motor before her maiden voyage??

I considered doing the same but decided against doing so. As you can see from my pics there was a fair amount of grease in there from the factory though some have been less fortunate. I did mine as a curiosity and possible sound mitigation than wear prevention. I'd consult WW as their motors are custom and they may have addressed it already.

Good luck with the Hydra... nice looking bike.
Some have questioned if WW is still in business, seems it is for the time being.

 

[Csubi]

I considered doing the same but decided against doing so. As you can see from my pics there was a fair amount of grease in there from the factory though some have been less fortunate. I did mine as a curiosity and possible sound mitigation than wear prevention. I'd consult WW as there motors are custom and they may have addressed it already.

Good luck with the Hydra... nice looking bike.
Some have questioned if WW is still in business, seems it is.

Thank you. I'll reach out and ask. WW is sadly in the process of closing up the shop. They will continue to support previous customers.
My bike was ordered a very long time ago. Very happy to finally get it

 

[Gionnirocket]

Thank you. I'll reach out and ask. WW is sadly in the process of closing up the shop. They will continue to support previous customers.
My bike was ordered a very long time ago. Very happy to finally get it

Sad...
I believe they tried to do it correctly but things just hit the fan with the pandemic.

 

[Deacon Blues]

Just got my Hydra! Still putting it together. Should I grease the motor before her maiden voyage??

Glad to hear you finally got your Hydra.
Last year, when I re-greased my UC Pro's motor, I also re-greased my Hydra's motor. While my UC Pro's motor has almost no grease my Hydra's motor had lots of grease (red coloured).
Does your Hydra have a regular derailleur setup?

Too bad about WW's demise. I'm actually surprised they lasted as long as they did.

 

[Csubi]

Glad to hear you finally got your Hydra.
Last year, when I re-greased my UC Pro's motor, I also re-greased my Hydra's motor. While my UC Pro's motor has almost no grease my Hydra's motor had lots of grease (red coloured).
Does your Hydra have a regular derailleur setup?

Too bad about WW's demise. I'm actually surprised they lasted as long as they did.

Hey buddy, I don't wanna hijack this thread. I'll make my new Hydra post!

 

[Neverlost]

Why don’t these motors have a Zerk fitting for ease of maintaining