tquenneville
New Member
I was able to install super moto 2.4 on my 2016. I had to remove the the cable guide from underneath of the rear fender to get them to fit. It wasn't a problem since I updated my tail light and mounted it on the seat post.
So just for folk who were interested, I was swapping to studded tires and tried a 700c wheel with a cyclocross tire on in the back (since it is Qr) and it fits under the fender fairly easily. It was basically exactly the same size as the stock wheels and tires.
I also tried some 45nrth 650b gravel studded tires and while 650b and 27.5 wheels might be the same size the tires are not! With 650b tires on the diameter is maybe 2 inches less. I have ordered some 27.5 versions instead. The 650b do fit fine though. Pictures attached!
I also tried some 45nrth 650b gravel studded tires and while 650b and 27.5 wheels might be the same size the tires are not! With 650b tires on the diameter is maybe 2 inches less. I have ordered some 27.5 versions instead. The 650b do fit fine though. Pictures attached!
Attachments
Alan111S
Member
Received my tyres today (just under a week Germany to Australia) which isn't too shabby.
Put the single G-One on the back and discovered that the one I purchased has a number 1 instead of a P. Which means its an Evolution vs Performance Line. The one I should have purchased is here and was 6 Euros cheaper:-
www.bike-components.de
However, it feels exactly like the original so it doesn't matter.
Put the single G-One on the back and discovered that the one I purchased has a number 1 instead of a P. Which means its an Evolution vs Performance Line. The one I should have purchased is here and was 6 Euros cheaper:-
27.5" Tyres
Purchase everything your bike needs in the Tyres - 27.5" Tyres category in our shop.
www.bike-components.de
However, it feels exactly like the original so it doesn't matter.
Received my tyres today (just under a week Germany to Australia) which isn't too shabby.
Put the single G-One on the back and discovered that the one I purchased has a number 1 instead of a P. Which means its an Evolution vs Performance Line. The one I should have purchased is here and was 6 Euros cheaper:-
27.5" Tyres
Purchase everything your bike needs in the Tyres - 27.5" Tyres category in our shop.
However, it feels exactly like the original so it doesn't matter.
I'm waiting about a week for a saddle to go halfway across America, so that's great.
Wait, it doesn't give 6 Euros more riding joy!?
Hello!
I'm wondering about the power of the 28mph version of the Quick-E+. Are you able to maintain 28mph for, say, 10-12km? Or is the 28mph assist is more for punctual needs?
I'm wondering if I need a stronger ebike motor for my need or if the PW-X or PW-X2 is enough.
Thanks for any infos!
I'm wondering about the power of the 28mph version of the Quick-E+. Are you able to maintain 28mph for, say, 10-12km? Or is the 28mph assist is more for punctual needs?
I'm wondering if I need a stronger ebike motor for my need or if the PW-X or PW-X2 is enough.
Thanks for any infos!
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
@Balinus, the 28 mph is the only the speed limiter setting. You're not guaranteed to reach 28 mph at all unless you're strong, ride downwind or downhill, and with maximum assistance. "Pedal assist up to 28 mph" is true. Maintaining 28 mph is not the promise.
My brother (who is strong) rode my Speed Vado 5 on a 2 x 2 km route, half with 20 mph (32 km/h) tailwind and the other half upwind. His average speed unpowered was 15 mph (24 km/h). With maximum assistance, he hit 28 mph (45 km/h) downwind but only 20.5 mph (33 km/h) upwind. His average speed was 20.6 mph (33+ km/h).
Judge for yourself. Quick E+ is not any different in this matter.
(Note: Riding up to 23 mph / 37 km/h is fairly easy if there are no adverse conditions).
My brother (who is strong) rode my Speed Vado 5 on a 2 x 2 km route, half with 20 mph (32 km/h) tailwind and the other half upwind. His average speed unpowered was 15 mph (24 km/h). With maximum assistance, he hit 28 mph (45 km/h) downwind but only 20.5 mph (33 km/h) upwind. His average speed was 20.6 mph (33+ km/h).
Judge for yourself. Quick E+ is not any different in this matter.
(Note: Riding up to 23 mph / 37 km/h is fairly easy if there are no adverse conditions).
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As Stefan said, 28 mph is where the speed limiter kicks in. Maintaining any speed for a particular length of time of distance is dependent on conditions (wind and slope), your stamina, and the battery's capacity to boost your pedaling to that speed for that length of time (in other words, its more an issue of longeviity of the battery and your pedaling rather than motor "strength" or "power"). I would say the Quick-E+ has the battery capacity to deliver max boost for 10-12 km.
Some real world numbers: My commute is 10 miles one-way (16 km) through a college town (suburban & urban) and I generally use ~20% of the battery, usually in the "normal" setting (middle of 5) varying between ECO+ and Sport (level 2-4). I am not going full-out pedaling for that time (avg 15 mph including stops for traffic lights, stop signs, etc). While I'm moving I'm usually seeing speeds around 20 mph but some stretches (on smooth bike path) I kick it up to 25-28 mph.
Hope that helps.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
I agree it depends on many factors, of which the stamina is not the least important. There is. however, a fallacy in "Class 3 e-bike guarantees riding at 28 mph" and you will certainly agree with me that maintaining that speed in most of cases is unrealistic.
Alan111S
Member
My commute is 20km each way mostly flat. I ride most of the way on a bike path with no traffic lights except for the last 2-3km.
I use 34% on the way to work as the wind resistance is low, riding in 'Normal' mode. Pace is about mid-30s km/h. Coming home there is a headwind upto 30/40km/h sometimes, so I crank it up to Sport or Sport+ depending on how bad it is. In Sport+, I will get home with 10% left, and that allows me to maintain around 30km/h. On about 3 occasions, the assist has stopped about 1-2kms away from home when the battery is on about 2-3%.
With no wind or a tailwind, even in Normal or Sport mode, I am doing 40-45km/h.
I changed my cassette and the smallest cog is now 12 which limits my top speed a little.
Hope that helps.
I use 34% on the way to work as the wind resistance is low, riding in 'Normal' mode. Pace is about mid-30s km/h. Coming home there is a headwind upto 30/40km/h sometimes, so I crank it up to Sport or Sport+ depending on how bad it is. In Sport+, I will get home with 10% left, and that allows me to maintain around 30km/h. On about 3 occasions, the assist has stopped about 1-2kms away from home when the battery is on about 2-3%.
With no wind or a tailwind, even in Normal or Sport mode, I am doing 40-45km/h.
I changed my cassette and the smallest cog is now 12 which limits my top speed a little.
Hope that helps.
To follow-up, I read up on the PW-X2, it looks like it mainly gives more power (less power drop-off, specifically) at high cadence (above 80-90 rpm) compared to the previous Yamaha motor. Also they got more sophisticated with an auto mode that adjusts boost level to account for slope as well as speed, cadance and torque. Where I live they need to account for headwind speed, same with @Alan111S, it sounds like.
Here is one PW-X2 review, sounds like the improvements are aimed at high-performance MTB riders who like high cadence -short cranks. Personally, that's not me, not sure about the OP,
ebike-mtb.com
Here is one PW-X2 review, sounds like the improvements are aimed at high-performance MTB riders who like high cadence -short cranks. Personally, that's not me, not sure about the OP,
New Yamaha 2020 ebike motors – PW-X2 and our first ride impressions
For model year 2020, the Japanese brand introduces the new Yamaha PW-X2 eMTB motor, aiming to set a new performance benchmark. We have all the key information about the new PW-X2 here, our exclusive first ride impressions and more! The new Yamaha PW-X2 motor is based on the same hardware as the...
ebike-mtb.com
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FlatSix911
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Silicon Valley
To follow-up, I read up on the PW-X2, it looks like it mainly gives more power (less power drop-off, specifically) at high cadence (above 80-90 rpm) compared to the previous Yamaha motor. Also they got more sophisticated with an auto mode that adjusts boost level to account for slope as well as speed, cadance and torque. Where I live they need to account for headwind speed, same with @Alan1115, it sounds like.
Here is one PW-X2 review, sounds like the improvements are aimed at high-performance MTB riders who like high cadence -short cranks. Personally, that's not me, not sure about the OP,
New Yamaha 2020 ebike motors – PW-X2 and our first ride impressions
For model year 2020, the Japanese brand introduces the new Yamaha PW-X2 eMTB motor, aiming to set a new performance benchmark. We have all the key information about the new PW-X2 here, our exclusive first ride impressions and more! The new Yamaha PW-X2 motor is based on the same hardware as the...
Good article... thanks for sharing. For those TLDR below.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
The assistance for a Class 3 e-bike gradually drops down to reach zero support at 45 km/h. So you are mostly relying on your leg power at these speeds.
kiwitux
New Member
I finally got the MIK rack adapter! This is a little embarrassing though... for those who have fitted this, what’s the best way to get the four plastic studs out of the screw holes on the back rack frame? There’s no head to them, and they don’t appear to pull/pry out (at least not easily). I’m sure it’s something stupid, but I can’t find the trick.
Here's what I would try: Drill a hole into it and screw a small sheet metal screw part way into it. Pull on screw. Or once the hole is in it, you might be able to just pry it out with an awl or pick & hook tool.
coffee.exe
New Member
Hi from Germany!
This is my quick +e FS 2019
Meanwhile i added a Racktime rack deck and i´m about to order a jones h-bar, because the Giant bar is really uncomfortable on longer rides.
Daniel
So much more comfortable...
Pulled it apart on the weekend and it wasn't as bad as I thought, the boot was intact and whatever heat seal they had used had failed, I just used some contact adhesive to glue it back on.
I'm guessing it failed as I use it everyday to go up the harbour bridge steps, and the walk mode is a bit weak for the incline which means I put a fair bit of pressure on the button as I'm pushing the bike up the ramp
I'm guessing it failed as I use it everyday to go up the harbour bridge steps, and the walk mode is a bit weak for the incline which means I put a fair bit of pressure on the button as I'm pushing the bike up the ramp
abercrombie
Member
Just got a used 2019 Giant Quick E+ in good shape, did a chain clean and re-lube once I got it home. Modifications so far is replacing the seat to a Bikearoo and adding a drop down mirror to the bar end.
The original owner got it from Bicycle Warehouse in California. Curious about warranty after buying it used.
The original owner got it from Bicycle Warehouse in California. Curious about warranty after buying it used.
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