Quick-E+

Excellent discussions, thanks for those that are sharing info! Very helpful.

I've just ticked over 2000km last week and noticed the spanner icon had appeared. Took it in to my LBS who said it had popped up to remind me that it was due for a *paid* service. They don't service the motor, just the standard bike parts (which i do myself). I let them know I just needed the spanner turned off.... and they going to bloody charge me to plug in to their diagnostic scanner for a second just to turn it off.

Connecting to the crappy RideControl app doesn't bring up any options to disable it... running "diagnostics" in the app says everything is fine. I haven't come across anyone here discussing / experiencing this issue.
Do any of you know a way to turn this off manually? Suggestions?

Other than that, Quicke+ (2019) is running pretty well. A few months ago it developed a really annoying creak which sounds like it's coming form the headset assembly ... likely needs taking apart for a good clean and re-grease since it's been a pretty wet winter here.
I've now got all the kit to go tubeless on the Schwalbe G One's. After a lot of indecision I eventually went with 'Joe's No Flats Tubeless' valves & liquid from a UK website, and 'Schwalbe Tubeless Rim Tape'. Planning on removing the existing factory tape from the rims and re-taping. I'm going to try inflate without using compressed air first... Will let you know how it goes with that particular setup.

Cheers.
 
Excellent discussions, thanks for those that are sharing info! Very helpful.

I've just ticked over 2000km last week and noticed the spanner icon had appeared. Took it in to my LBS who said it had popped up to remind me that it was due for a *paid* service. They don't service the motor, just the standard bike parts (which i do myself). I let them know I just needed the spanner turned off.... and they going to bloody charge me to plug in to their diagnostic scanner for a second just to turn it off.

Connecting to the crappy RideControl app doesn't bring up any options to disable it... running "diagnostics" in the app says everything is fine. I haven't come across anyone here discussing / experiencing this issue.
Do any of you know a way to turn this off manually? Suggestions?

Other than that, Quicke+ (2019) is running pretty well. A few months ago it developed a really annoying creak which sounds like it's coming form the headset assembly ... likely needs taking apart for a good clean and re-grease since it's been a pretty wet winter here.
I've now got all the kit to go tubeless on the Schwalbe G One's. After a lot of indecision I eventually went with 'Joe's No Flats Tubeless' valves & liquid from a UK website, and 'Schwalbe Tubeless Rim Tape'. Planning on removing the existing factory tape from the rims and re-taping. I'm going to try inflate without using compressed air first... Will let you know how it goes with that particular setup.

Cheers.

Hey Matt, my headset was creaking which was one of the things the bike shop fixed.
 
Nice Alan - Will have to take mine in and get the update.

My G-One's lasted 500km then died. I put the Energizer Plus on, much better for commuting, feel faster, are much quieter. Only gripe is they are a bit of a b!tch to get to seat correctly all the way around on the rims. Mine are both a bit wobbly but not unsafe, checked with a bike shop on my way home one day. Did everything (Soap, water, dish washing liquid) other than air compressor. Will ask them to have another go at it when I take it in. Other than that, no complaints, will get them again, have about 600km on them, no signs of wear at all. And they are cheap from Chain Reaction!

Sorry guys, the display flipping back to Trip Time is still an issue. Not sure what has happened. Maybe the LBS put the wrong firmware again !!!!
 
In case anyone is still interested, I had to take the bike into the shop, so got the software sorted out.

Had a really bad creaking sound coming from the bottom crank / pedal area which forced me to get the bike looked at. Taking apart and regreasing fixed that but I never spoke to the mechanic so don't know the exact issue. They also noticed the headrace was a little loose. Anyhow now it's riding so smooth it seems almost too quiet.

I had emailed Giant who informed the shop that they had used the wrong firmware update. The printout has the same Software version, but this firmware does not have the issue where it continually changes back to Trip Distance.

It also has a Sat Nav feature which I never noticed before..... You can pick a spot on Google Maps or enter an address I believe and the directions will come up on the display.

Haven't had a chance to try it out properly yet.

I'm also in need of new tyres soon. Trying to source the original Schwalbe G One tyres here in Australia is quite difficult.

Liked the look of the Schwalbe Energizer Plus ..... They come in 27.5 x 2 - which is only a little narrower, but might be better for commuting. I also like the puncture resistant Greengard tech.

Anybody tried these out ?

I like the look of the 2.15" Schwalbe Marathon Almotion V-Guard but couldn't find them anywhere at a reasonable price, so ended up buying the 2" Schwalbe Big Ben Plus for $35NZ. I find the G-One 2.25 a bit too soft in the sidewalls when cornering hard, I can feel them squirming and deforming, so a heavier Snakeskin sidewall and Greenguard should help.
Funny - I just pulled the fork and regreased the headset last week. Cured a lot of creaking. Those split rings do need regualr attention, as do the cranks bolts. I tighten those weekly.
 
I am seriously considering this bike but I need it to be more comfortable for my 73 year old body. Pressure on my hands and the bend of my neck just do not work for me anymore. I have the Kinekt seat post on another bike and will move it to this one. I really like it.

I would like to raise the bars quite a bit. I am thinking of the extension for the steering post and/or bars that have more sweep to them. Of course a lot will depend on the length of all the cables and brake tubes.

Has anyone raised the bars and found it to be ok in terms of handling? I know some bikes just to do not work out when you go changing these types of things.

Ideas and thoughts on this are welcomed.
Thanks, John
I find that this bike has a little too much lean than I anticipated. I have some bulging discs and I’m hoping I can add a couple spacers or replace the handlebars and stem completely But I havent thought about it seriously just yet. Curious to find out how you did this mod. Let me know
 
You have a few options for raising them:
1. Spacers
2. Stem Angle
3. Stem Length
4. Handlebar Rise
5. Bar Ends
6. Cut the bars

1. Depending on the bike, spacers probably aren’t an option as I haven’t seen too many Quick E’s with spacers above the stem.

2 & 3. Angle and/or length aren’t a bad option. I think the default rise on a Quick E is 8 degrees. Adjustments here can be tricky as obviously the changes are a factor of both angle and length, i.e if you change to a steeper angle but keep the length the same, the bars will get higher but also closer, so if you don’t want to change the reach of the bars, you will need a slightly longer stem if you adjust the angle.

4. I think the bars that come on the Quick E have a 15mm rise. You can replace these with bars with a higher rise, 35mm is easy to come by, who’s will gain you 2cm in height.

5. A set of bar ends angled steeply upwards can also give you a more upright stance and provide alternative grip positions to help with back pain.

6. Moving your hands closer to the centre of the bars will also have the effect of straightening your arms and pushing your back more upright, you can test this fairly easily by just moving your hands closer to the centre of the bars off the grips to see how it feels.

I had the shop change my stem for a 130mm but kept the angle at 8 degrees. Some people don’t like longer stems as they claim it effects the handling, but I feel they add a bit of suspension and help soften some of the bumps. I’ve also gone for a 38mm riser handlebar cut 1cm shorter than the standard bars were. I feel like the bar length on the Quick E is too wide for a city bike. You just don’t need that much leverage.
 
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So I finally worked out what was happening with the 'Trip Time' issue, where the display keeps flipping back to 'Trip Time'.

It's actually not a firmware issue, but a problem in the RideControl app.

If you just go for a normal ride, the 'i' button functions correctly and you can switch to whatever you want to show on the display whether it's Trip Distance, Range or Cadence for example.

But when you are recording your ride with the Ridecontrol app, the display will continually move back to 'Trip Time', even if you try to change it to something else.

Also, the firmware level shown on the printout from Giant is not the Bike's firmware, but the motor firmware, so when I said in earlier posts that the bike shop had said they upgraded my bike but that software level didn't change it was because we were talking about two different firmwares.

I will contact the RideControl developers and see if they can fix this issue.
 
Just found the forum again after months away. I've had my 2019 Quick-E+ for almost a year now, unfortunately not riding the last few months as I'm trying to avoid back surgery!

Finally got back on yesterday, reminded me I need to sort some stuff out with it, great to read of firmware updates although I have a Speedbox2 installed so don't fancy taking it out just to get the new firmware. But I may have to as the bike hasn't been back to the shop since I bought it and many of the niggles I see people reporting here I have them too. Warranty probably runs out soon on motor and electronics, so should get onto it, that might be a weekend project - restoring it to 'factory' specs for the drivetrain at least.

Biggest problem I've had maybe potential overheating of the motor when going hard with the Speedbox2 enabled. I live in a hot climate, and am a big guy/powerful rider. Quite a few times when I've been getting right into it the spanner comes up on the main display with speed sensor flagged as the issue. Stopping then turning the bike off and on resets it, but if the motor is still warm it generally comes back. During my ride yesterday I wasn't going as hard although it was a very hot day, and I didn't have the problem. Might mean I need to take it easy!

I've modded mine with a 48t chainring, Speedbox2, Ergon GP5 grips, the Mik rack deck and a different stem. Thinking of changing the handlebars for a set of Jones bars I have on my bikepacking bike while I get back into riding again, and peoples mention of the Kinekt seatpost is timely, my back wasn't happy yesterday being bounced around so I'll probably get a Kinekt or Thudbuster seatpost for it.

Interesting to read of others issues with the wheels, I've noticed mine seem a little 'floppy' at times and I've had some frame rub. Was going to put some heavier duty wheels on to see if that helps, but based on pics and comments here I'll need to check how the rear wheel is dished.

Has anyone retrofitted a suspension fork? Noticed some pages back here a picture of a German delivered Quick-E+ with a suspension fork, might try and chase down the details of that fork. Giant and their ridiculous headset standards make fork retrofit a bit of a pain sometimes!
 
Finally got back on yesterday, reminded me I need to sort some stuff out with it, great to read of firmware updates although I have a Speedbox2 installed so don't fancy taking it out just to get the new firmware. But I may have to as the bike hasn't been back to the shop since I bought it and many of the niggles I see people reporting here I have them too. Warranty probably runs out soon on motor and electronics, so should get onto it, that might be a weekend project - restoring it to 'factory' specs for the drivetrain at least.

I've got the Speedbox 2 on my 2019 as well. Do we know for sure you have to take it off if they do a firmware update?
 
Has anyone retrofitted a suspension fork? Noticed some pages back here a picture of a German delivered Quick-E+ with a suspension fork, might try and chase down the details of that fork. Giant and their ridiculous headset standards make fork retrofit a bit of a pain sometimes!

Instead of a Suspension fork, I am getting a Baramind Bam Trek handlebar for Christmas. I'm so excited to give it a try. Its about price comparable with the Jones handlebars. Only comes from France at this point but it was easy enough to ship to the US. It has a built in downward flex allowance but does not flex up past its neutral point. Really cool technology.
 
Has anyone retrofitted a suspension fork? Noticed some pages back here a picture of a German delivered Quick-E+ with a suspension fork, might try and chase down the details of that fork. Giant and their ridiculous headset standards make fork retrofit a bit of a pain sometimes!

Yes, I am also interested in possible suspension fork options. There's something special about the Giant head?
 
Yes, I am also interested in possible suspension fork options. There's something special about the Giant head?

I had a look at my bike, 'Overdrive' is their name for a 1 1/2" to 1 1/8" tapered headset, so that's all good...phew. I also have a Giant MTB with an Overdrive 2 headset, that one is a pain and what I was thinking of when I made that comment.

Quick-E+ 2019 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/au/quick-eplus--25km-h--2019
Quick-E+ FS 2019 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/se/quick-eplus-fs
Quick-E+ FS 45 2018 - https://www.giant-bicycles.com/int/quick-eplus-fs-45-2018

A geometry comparison between the Quick-E+ FS and Quick-E+ shows the headtube is generally 20mm shorter on the front suspension version to compensate for the increased axle to crown length of the suspension forks. However, the Small sized frames appear to be the same! Significantly, from the data sources above, in all sizes the biggest differences end up being increased stand over height and a 30mm higher bottom bracket on the suspension version (-70 to -40). Which means, that a suspension fork with short travel should be workable on the rigid Quick-E+. It will slack out the steering angle, probably down to 69.5 or so from 71, lift the front of the bike (increased stack, another option for those looking for a higher front end) and raise the bottom bracket height to around what the FS model is. A different front wheel or some other way to adapt the 12mm axle to the 15mm fork will also be needed. 15 wheel to 12 fork is easy, I've never done it the other way! Can the Giant hubs have their axle changed? Would assume so.

The axle to crown measurement for the rigid fork is 420mm measured on my bike. Using the 10% rule for adding a suspension fork to a rigid geometry frame, you're looking at a suspension fork axle to crown length of 462mm (extra 42mm) before things become unworkable.

Giant have fitted a Suntour MOBIE 25 LO-R with 15mm axle to the 25 km/h rated version, the MOBIE 45 LO-R with 15mm axle to the 45km/h rated version. Would suggest that heavier and faster riders get the 45 model if buying these, due to the larger diameter stanchions for extra strength. Or an equivalent heavy duty fork. Being 27.5" it limits the short travel options somewhat compared to the 28"/700c trekking fork options. An 80mm travel fork MAY work, but that depends on the axle to crown length you have to play with. My guess is the sweet spot will be a fork with 60-65mm travel, not many of those out there for 27.5". I'm tempted to try an 80mm travel Fox, Rock Shox or similar if I can find one used. Manitou may also have an 80mm 27.5 wheel option too.


MOBIE 25/A32 (32mm stanchions) - https://www.srsuntour.com/products/fork/MOBIE-A32-6001.html
MOBIE 45/A34 (34mm stanchions) - https://www.srsuntour.us/products/mobie45-air-lor-ds-15qlc32-27-5?variant=44609205454

I did get a measurement for the 700C short travel version of the MOBIE 25, axle to crown is 490mm! So that's a no go...

Does anyone here have a front suspension Quick-E+? If so, could you measure the axle to crown measurement with no load on the bike? The axle to crown measurement for the forks isn't listed anywhere and would be the best reference. Or can someone ride to their local bike shop and find one to measure? :)
 
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Instead of a Suspension fork, I am getting a Baramind Bam Trek handlebar for Christmas. I'm so excited to give it a try. Its about price comparable with the Jones handlebars. Only comes from France at this point but it was easy enough to ship to the US. It has a built in downward flex allowance but does not flex up past its neutral point. Really cool technology.

Interesting! Will be curious to hear how you go with it. I use carbon bars and seatpost on my also carbon road bike. Makes a big difference to ride comfort.
 
Did some work on the bike today and removed the Speedbox 2. I think I found the problem with my speed sensor and the assistance deciding to stop working the other day!
 

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I've been wrenching in a shop for half my life. I just built 5 of these. I think that for an E-bike it's not bad. It certainly is fast and built well. The only problem I see and it's pretty major is, when the chain drops off the front ring. The spacing between the frame, plastic coweling and s small ring is so tight that if you don't catch it immediately there is going to be serious damage to
I 100% agree. My chain get stuck down there a couple of times after a series of punctures on the factory tires. Scratches still there today.
I've been wrenching in a shop for half my life. I just built 5 of these. I think that for an E-bike it's not bad. It certainly is fast and built well. The only problem I see and it's pretty major is, when the chain drops off the front ring. The spacing between the frame, plastic coweling and s small ring is so tight that if you don't catch it immediately there is going to be serious damage to
I 100% agree. My chain got stuck down there a couple of times after a series of punctures on the factory tires. Scratches still there today.
 
In case anyone is still interested, I had to take the bike into the shop, so got the software sorted out.

Hi @Alan111S would you be able to take a screenshot from Ride Control showing your software version?

My firmware was supposedly updated during a recent dealer visit but in Ride Control the software version for the bike still starts with 2018...

Edit: seems a previous post of yours explains the firmware version issue! I still don't get power bars or navigation on my display though.
 
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Feel like I'm spamming the thread a bit! A few updates for my ongoing Quick-E+ project :D

The Speedbox 2 was returned under warranty, waiting for a replacement to arrive now. Sounds like it didn't work properly from the start, hoping the replacement works fine.

I purchased a Suntour SP12-NCX seatpost to smooth out the butt bumps! Works very well. I'm extremely impressed given the cost, only $99AUD. Much cheaper than some other options out there.

My front suspension project is going ahead. I have ordered an 80mm travel fork, it's in the post from the US to Australia at the moment. With 'sag' applied it will fit in the 'safe' axle to crown range I had figured out. When I install I will do a full set of before and after geometry measurements to see how much it changes the bike, and will give some ride impressions.

Was checking out the front wheel today to see what needs to be done to change it to accept a 15x100 thru-axle as opposed to the 12x100 it has now. Easy fix, the end caps just pop out, the rest of the hub is already setup for a 15mm axle. I had a 15mm axle from another MTB and slid it in to check the fit, works well.

I need to find a set of end caps that will work on this wheel for a 15x100 axle, so I will pop down to the local Giant dealer today and see if they can get them. Should be able to, as the same hub is used on the new Explores that have a 15x100 axle. Pics attached if anyone is interested. The setup is similar to a DT Swiss 240, but the measurements are different. Our wheels use 15267-2RS sealed bearings (26mm OD, 15mm ID, 7mm width) and the 240 uses 6803 bearings I think (26mm OD, 17mm ID). I think these hubs were originally based on a Formula hub, but good luck getting anything from them! End caps in the pics are for the 12x100 axle, the shiny bit goes into the hub body and reduces it from a 15mm ID to 12mm ID, I think there's already a 20mm ID to 15mm ID reducer installed in the hub from what I could tell. Everything 'north' of the shiny bit sits outside the bearing.
 

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E-bike newb here. I got the 2019 Quick-E about a month ago and have almost 200 miles on it so far. I love it! No issues as of yet other than a flat, and I hate flats. I use the bike to commute to work and I have no time for them. My question is, would there be any problems replacing the stock Schwalbe One's with a smaller diameter Schwalbe Marathon or a Kenda Quick Seven flat resistant tires in regard to compatibility or anything I may not know about e-bikes? (did I mention I'm a newb?) I'm not really interested in going tubeless.. so, robust tires an light tubes are the way to go for me. Maybe someone has some recommendations about good tires I haven't seen. Love the site and love the bike!
 
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