Problems with the wallke april batch: no regen, 22mph top speed, 0mph coasting.

So I managed to squeeze in a few speed runs at the end of the day today. Didn't think I would be able to, it was stormy and rainy all day, but just in case during the day I installed some mudguards I bought from Cyrusher for their xf690 (I liked the dirt bike fender look more than the tame, old school-looking ones that came with the X3, but that's just me). Glad I did b/c as luck would have it, the rain let up just before sundown. As soon as I saw a bit of blue in the sky, grabbed my phone, unfolded the bike, and found the most level-ish street I could safely do speed runs on without there being too many cars around.

On initial comparison, the speedometer and the GPS did not match exactly, the speedo was still reading about 10% on the high side. This was with the wheel setting still set to 24. So I went into the advanced settings and set the wheel to 22 inches. From then on the speedometer and the GPS matched exactly.

The street I did my runs on (I did several) was not completely level, it had a slight slope for most of the stretch of about 7 or 8 degrees. Knowing this I clocked myself going up and down the street.

155lb rider (including gear)
20 PSI tires
PAS level 5 (max)
Throttle only (no pedaling)
Minimal wind
Smooth asphalt

27.9mph downhill, GPS confirmed (I did see 28 mph flash several times but it was only briefly)
25.4mph uphill, GPS confirmed, did not hit 26 mph when going against the gradient

Below is a picture of my advanced settings
 

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Thanks for the tests. WALLKE it's sending me a new motor after a long discussion and many tests because my bike's performance was not in line with a typical 750w motor. I will do some tests too to compare your results to mine and make a video covering it all.
 
Thanks fof the info and settings SlickSilver. I have the same issues as others here regarding top speed. I bought my Wallke x3 the same time as my father bought an Aventon Avenger. The Aventon has a Bafang labeled go60.750w motor. Wallke has a Wallke labeled 750w motor, that looks a lot like a Bafang case. The Aventon will go 31mph while the Wallke 22. I bieve the Wallke motor will draw 750 watts, but it is more equivalent to the Bafang 500w which will also draw over 750 watts. It is games the manufacturers play with the motor ratings. Rad power bikes also play the same games. The video I posted from CitizenCycle on youtube shows the physical differences in the motor windings, and armature size. Its unfortunate that a manufacturers listed motor size is not something that is standardized between manufacturers, so without riding before purchasing, or true independent testing, the consumer has no real idea what to expect. The speedometer malfunction further misleads into displaying false top speeds. Is it all intentional or unfortunate coincidence? Who knows? I hope the new motor that Wallke ships will give improved speed and makes the speedo and odometer work is all. It would be great if their new motor performed like the Bafang 750w, but by the photo they sent me of the motor armature, its looking like the 500w Bafang armature. So hopes are not high.
 
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Here is a comparison of a Rad Rover 750w (Left) labeled motor, next to a Bafang 750w labeled motor (Right), from the youtube video. And the solo motor photo is what Wallke offered to send me at one point instead of a built wheel. Looks like Wallke is repeating Rad's method of labeling the smaller motor at 750w.
Maybe need to look into swapping the armatures like the CitizenCycle guy did with a genuine Bafang? The motors appear very similar, so maybe?? I'll try Wallke's motor fix then decide.
 

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Slick Silver said:
UPDATES

So my motor arrived about a week ago, but it arrived cosmetically damaged. I don't blame Wallke fully; the packaging could have been better but it looked like they honestly tried; there were foam reinforcement panels where they were needed, but DHL (the shipper) seemed to really mishandle the package and they didn't hold up. As it was, the tip of the axel where the motor cable exits punctured the box, allowing it to be scraped up. Did not damage the cable itself though, which was lucky, and the scraped up bit was easily covered by one of the rubber nut covers that came with the original motor.

My rim had holes and was identical to the original. My motor also came with a new controller box.

I just finished getting it all swapped out today. It wasn't a very difficult process, but it wasn't a cakewalk either. Swapping the controller was easy, but removing the rear wheel to do the motor swap took more elbow grease than I'd imagined. Actually had to have a mate help me pry it out, it was really jammed in there. Once the wheel was removed, moving the tube and tire onto the new rim/motor was pretty straightforward. Not counting the time the wheel was stuck, entire process probably took about 90 minutes from start to finish, breaks included.

I've only had one short test ride so far, b/c its rainy where I live today, but I definitely noticed some differences:

The bike feels zippier, like it has more torque. Also pedal assist seems to kick in earlier. Even with slow start set to 0, before the bike needed about 2 full revolutions to start giving power; now it only seems to take 1 revolution. All in all it definitely feels faster off the line with both throttle & pedalling.

The speedometer indeed appears fixed, and reads even while coasting. Haven't tested accuracy against GPS yet but it feels more or less accurate.

I have regeneration when exceeding 12mph in PAS setting 1. This was a feature I specifically requested for mine; and it works as advertised and shown by other users, I get a little red bar and a red negative number reading the number of watts going back into the battery. I'm pleased. It does seem to come with a drawback, however. The new motor is smooth while in use but is definitely creating a bit of drag with the bike turned off, I get some rolling resistance when spinning the wheel. At first I thought I had installed the wheel incorrectly and that something external was rubbing... but I can see nothing to explain, & tracing the sound, it seems to be coming from the hub, as though the gears of the motor are engaged even when its off. I don't think its a dealbreaker, but is something I will be mindful as I get more rides in and evaluate the new set-up on the bike.

As a note, none of my advanced settings were changed during the controller & motor swap. My test run was still with a 24" wheel setting, slow start set at 0

Original motor:
Banx200904978S148
WALLKE48V750W26CBBBB1

New motor:
x15-26"48V750W(C)
21060004
ZNZK
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Slick Silver,
Does your speedometer work in PAS level 0? If you set the SHD to 0, do you still feel the resistance when spinning the rear wheel?

Thank you for the update!
 
My speedometer works in PAS 0.

Also, setting SHD to 0 does not alter the slight resistance or the whirring sound of gears inside the hub. Your question made me curious though so I took it a step further and did a test run down a hill with SHD set to 0, without pedaling, and then the same run with SHD set to 50. Both runs were on PAS 4 so that regen would not activate and affect the results. There was no difference in my top speed at the bottom of the hill.

I am still testing the new motor for efficiency; I haven't yet been able to definitively determine if my mileage has at all improved from the benefit of having regen (I live in a very hilly area,) or if it has been canceled out by the bit of added rolling resistance. First impressions are that its about the same, no obvious losses or gains in overall range. I believe I'd have to actually swap in the original and test them back to back to find out exactly what the difference in range is and whether it's net positive, negative or neutral.

If I ever become curious enough to do so, I will post the results here.
 
Curcutie said:
Haven’t opened it yet but wallke said it does come with the wheel plus the box is quite big.
Click to expand...
If you can, please provide pictures of the unboxing and the printed label on the motor itself. I'm curious if it matches the ones already sent. Thanks.
 
Here's the latest response to my 2nd bike I received with the slow motor. Ugh. Guess I have to wait.

"Thank you a lot for your detailed video. This will help us confirm the issue. I appreciate your time and effort.
Regarding the motor, it is unavailable now. It is in production. I hope that you can understand that parts are in High Demand, especially in the eBike Sector.
Once it becomes available, I will send it to you. Please send us your shipping address."
 
Very curious to see if these replacement motors give the 28mph speed myself, and if the speedo is close to speed indicated on gps.Mine has still not been shipped. I will post when I receive it along with results. This sure has been a less than thrilling journey with Wallke.
Thanks for the info guys.
 
Update:
Ok I just installed this new motor and had a thorough test ride. It’s a weird one I have to say but the added power and speed were definitely noticeable. However, the display still doesn’t show the coasting speed and the speedometer is still way off, basically same as before.

What’s different this time around is that the speed isn’t capped at 30mph anymore (actual speed 22.5 mph). At one point, I was able to hit 40+mph on the display but it just happened one time. Top speed seems to be at 36-38 mph (28 mph on Strava). The funny thing is that it’ll only last for about 30 seconds and it’ll drop down to 30mph (22 mph on Strava) if you continue to peddle. But if you stop peddling for a split second and then you peddle hard again, it’ll let you have another 30 seconds of the top speed.

Edits: change your wheel size to 22 to fix the speedo and slow downs!!!

Yea it’s kinda weird but overall I’m not mad at it because I don’t like to cruise at top speed anyways and this new motor really does feel a lot more powerful. Though I do wish I could’ve requested what Slick Silver had asked for with the new controller so then I can have a correct speedometer reading as well. But oh well. I don’t think I want to spend anymore mental energy on this messup. Here are some screen shots
 

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Curcutie said:
Update:
Ok I just installed this new motor and had a thorough test ride. It’s a weird one I have to say but the added power and speed were definitely noticeable. First, the display still doesn’t show the coasting speed and the speedometer is still way off, basically same as before.

What’s different this time around is that the speed isn’t capped at 30mph anymore (actual speed 22.5 mph). At one point, I was able to hit 40+mph on the display but it just happened one time. Top speed seems to be at 36-38 mph (28 mph on Strava). The funny thing is that it’ll only last for about 30 seconds and it’ll drop down to 30mph (22 mph on Strava) if you continue to peddle. But if you stop peddling for a split second and then you peddle hard again, it’ll let you have another 30 seconds of the top speed.

Yea it’s kinda weird but overall I’m not mad at it because I don’t like to cruise at top speed anyways and this new motor really does feel a lot more powerful. Though I do wish I could’ve requested what Slick Silver had asked for with the new controller so then I can have a correct speedometer reading as well. But oh well. I don’t think I want to spend anymore mental energy on this messup. Here are some screen shots.View attachment 93573View attachment 93574
Click to expand...
Try dropping the wheel size in the settings, to sync to your gps.
May help.
 
johnwebike said:
Try dropping the wheel size in the settings, to sync to your gps.
May help.
Click to expand...
Good point. Maybe the speed is getting too high and it's throttling back? Using 22" tire size seems to put it close to real GPS speed.

thanks Curcutie for testing for us.
 
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