PLEASE Help Troubleshoot Electrical Issue with Brand New RadRover

[Gary_G]

Hi, everyone- I just purchased my first e-bike a few weeks ago, a RadRover. I thought I was doing the smart thing, having it delivered straight to my LBS for assembly and a hydraulic brake upgrade before I even tried it out, but that hasn't worked out so well for me. This LBS is very good with 'normal' bicycles, but has zero prior experience with e-bikes. In spite of that, I remembered how happy I was with their service on my Cannondale years ago (after another LBS left me thoroughly unimpressed, twice) and there are no e-bike shops in my area, so I went and begged them to put my new RadRover together for me.

They got the bike put together and working well in straight-from-the-box configuration, before installing the 203mm front rotor and Luna Cycle "BBSXX-BRKS-M615 Shimano Deore M615 Hydraulic Brake Set with Bafang Ebrake cut off" (which I no longer see listed for sale on their website) that I wanted. During installation, the LBS noted that the Ebrake cutoff would not mate up to my RadRover wiring (even though the RR does have a Bafang controller). The RadRover wiring has two-pronged red connectors, and the Luna brakes have three-pronged yellow connectors. Does anyone know where I can get adapters, or connectors, and/or how I need to wire things up to compensate for this?

Initially, I assumed this simply meant that until I could find and install the proper connectors, I would not have instant motor cutoff when the brakes were applied- the same as if I had 'normal' brakes, with no cutoff... That didn't seem so bad, given that I had bumped up the front rotor size and gone hydraulic, so as soon as I got my RR home I eagerly jumped on it and went for a spin around my neighborhood... which turned out to be a *VERY SLOW* spin, with no motor assistance in any Pedal Assist mode nor while twisting the throttle.

I then reasoned that the open ebrake circuit was activating the motor cutoff, and that, as a temporary workaround, I should be able to hang my old (no longer installed) brakes on my handlebars, and plug in their sensor wiring, thereby closing the sensor circuit and allowing the motor to run.

Nope. No self-propulsion whatsoever.

Can anybody help me understand and correct this problem? I have fully charged the battery. I have properly turned on both the battery and the display. I have properly reinstalled the battery after charging. Am I overlooking something here, or would y'all be inclined to agree that the ebrake motor cutoff is likely the only issue- in which case, why didn't my field expedient fix work? What do I do for a permanent fix? Where do I find any necessary parts? Who would you turn to for technical support here- Rad Power? Luna? Bafang?

Thanks, in advance, to any and all who might be able to help me out here!

GG.

 

[mrgold35]

Sounds like the LBS might have damaged the wiring harness and/or damaged the controller during assembly. I'm assuming the rover work normally before the brake mods were added. Rad Power Bikes will have you double-check all connections to make sure you don't have any bent pins.

You might have to contact Rad Power Bikes and let them know what happened. I wouldn't be surprised if they don't cover the fix under the 1 year warranty. My guess is the wiring harness and/or controller needs to replaced to get you up and running. Some folks left the Rover cable brake system and upgraded to the TRP HY/RD Cable-Actuated Hydraulic Disc Brake

The upgrade works for 180mm rotors and I'm not sure if they needed to purchase additional parts to make it work. I don't know if this upgrade will work for anything larger than 180mm?

 

[rich c]

Saying the LBS might have damaged the wiring harness seems like a major leap to me.

Call Rad and ask about the LCD programming. Make sure the PAS sensor is very close to the sensor. I'm curious why you bought an upgrade without asking about compatibility. Bafang makes a LOT of configurations. Permanent fix? Put the factory parts on, have Rad help you troubleshoot, and enjoy the ride.

 

[mrgold35]

Saying the LBS might have damaged the wiring harness seems like a major leap to me.

Call Rad and ask about the LCD programming. Make sure the PAS sensor is very close to the sensor. I'm curious why you bought an upgrade without asking about compatibility. Bafang makes a LOT of configurations. Permanent fix? Put the factory parts on, have Rad help you troubleshoot, and enjoy the ride.

I was going by the OP comments about the Rover worked out the box normally, they installed the hydraulic brakes and no motor cutoff available because of different pins, OP took the bike home and noticed no motor assist, and replace with original parts AND still no motor assist. From the OP's comments the bike was working normally until they tried to install the brakes.

The OP didn't say if there are any error codes on the LCD screen or if the throttle and PAS is disabled? Since the Rover was shipped directly to the LBS, it could have not been fully 100% out the box (the LBS might not realized any issues since they were new to ebikes).

 

[rich c]

I can go along with your theory, but I was thinking it's hard to damage the harness by just unplugging the brakes. We don't have much more information than the plugs aren't correct. Not sure if the owner rode the bike before the mod was made. I'm also surprised how many people want to immediately mechanically modify their brand new bikes. Maybe because I've only been a serious cyclist for the last 2 years, a mod for me 55 years ago was a basket on the front! I prefer to buy a bike that has the main features I want. The Sondors group is awash with people that start buying the mods months before the bike shows up.

 

[Lost]

More data needed. What is the display doing? PAS level set? Switch position on throttle? IS the brake symbol lit up on display? Error code?

 

[harryS]

Three wire brakes suggests to me that they tried to wire in 5 volt power. Probably grounded out the power with their wiring. PAS won't work. Displays on many controllers runs off battery power.

OP should remove all the bike shop wire mods. I've briefly short circuited the 5 volt power with bad wiring myself, and no lasting damage.