Shengyi hub motor connector question

[Benjamin James]

My bike has been saddled with some factory imposed limitations, I'd like to eliminate those limitations if possible. (go faster). At the moment, it has a Shengyi DGW25pxx family's motor run at 500 watts for a 20" wheel - but rated for 750 watts. The OEM controller gets it's speed signal from the motor and not from a magnetic speed switch on a wheel. The stock controller won't allow me to defeat the speed limitation of 32 km/hr - and I'm certain there's a bit more there. It used a torque sensing BB, which also imposes some additional challenges regarding changing the controller. In addition to that, the OEM battery uses some sort of handshake from the controller to enable the battery (battery has 5 terminals). I'd much like to change out the stock controller for something that doesn't impose so many limitations, but it looks like there's a couple potential snags.

1. I'm not sure about the motor connector pin-outs, and Shengyi isn't returning messages - Would the on-line diagrams of the J610 connector on the motor be consistent from motor to motor (with the exception of the 9th conductor being used for either a thermistor or for a speed signal depending on client?)
2. How do I get my OEM battery to work with an aftermarket controller if it needs to be told to "turn on"?
3 I'd likely be forgoing the smoothness of the torque sensing BB for the universal convenience of a Cadence sensor, as there's no way for me to know how my OEM torque sensor works
4. safety switches on the hydraulic brakes would have to be compatible with the motor cut-out circuit
I'd still need to limit my current to a value that wouldn't cook my motor
5. I realize I'll likely have to mount the new controller outside of the frame downtube, even though the OEM controller is hidden inside.

This will be my winter project, but I'd love an opportunity to establish some dialog with people who know this stuff better than I do.

 

[harryS]

Could be wrong, but I think Shengyi makes motors and doesn't sell ebikes. It would help to talk about the make/model of your bike. For example, here's a 20" fat tire bike with torque sensor.

Not familiar with a J610. A picture is worth 1K words. Most hubmotor cables incorporate 3 thick wires nd 6 thin. The three thick are phase wires. Red/ground are +5V power. Yellow/Green/Blue are position sensors. White is speed sensor. Temperature sensors are rare in hubmotors.

I think torque sensing is a good feeling on a light bike, maybe not so useful on a heavy one since you have to bust your butt to pedal them. There may also be a cadence function in those rear axle sensors, but I've never been priveleged enough to own a bike with them.

What a lot of people did with Euro mid motors is to intercept the speed sensor signal and divide it. If you got to the white wire above, you could do that. A divide by 2 is easy, followed by resetting the wheel diameter if your display allows the wheels size to be set. Does setting the wheel diameter w/o fiddling with the signal work?

I saw an ebike today motoring down a country road in our town. I road that same route once at 15 mph and almost got rear ended on a hill. I'm not sure going 24-26 mph is any safer, but I do see why people want more speed. Nonetheless, if you have a good bike, would be a shame to gut it to go a little faster. A fat tire bike, if that's what you have, with the accompanying heavy frame is maybe 25 mph on a 48V battery,.

If you want to gut it, buy a display/controller as a combo, probably a 25A controller. Install a PAS sensor. Replace everthing. It woill run a two wire connect to any battery.

 

[Benjamin James]

Could be wrong, but I think Shengyi makes motors and doesn't sell ebikes. It would help to talk about the make/model of your bike. For example, here's a 20" fat tire bike with torque sensor.

Not familiar with a J610. A picture is worth 1K words. Most hubmotor cables incorporate 3 thick wires nd 6 thin. The three thick are phase wires. Red/ground are +5V power. Yellow/Green/Blue are position sensors. White is speed sensor. Temperature sensors are rare in hubmotors.

I think torque sensing is a good feeling on a light bike, maybe not so useful on a heavy one since you have to bust your butt to pedal them. There may also be a cadence function in those rear axle sensors, but I've never been priveleged enough to own a bike with them.

What a lot of people did with Euro mid motors is to intercept the speed sensor signal and divide it. If you got to the white wire above, you could do that. A divide by 2 is easy, followed by resetting the wheel diameter if your display allows the wheels size to be set. Does setting the wheel diameter w/o fiddling with the signal work?

I saw an ebike today motoring down a country road in our town. I road that same route once at 15 mph and almost got rear ended on a hill. I'm not sure going 24-26 mph is any safer, but I do see why people want more speed. Nonetheless, if you have a good bike, would be a shame to gut it to go a little faster. A fat tire bike, if that's what you have, with the accompanying heavy frame is maybe 25 mph on a 48V battery,.

If you want to gut it, buy a display/controller as a combo, probably a 25A controller. Install a PAS sensor. Replace everthing. It woill run a two wire connect to any battery.

It’s an Aventon Abound.
I can’t set/change the wheel diameter,

 

[Benjamin James]

Could be wrong, but I think Shengyi makes motors and doesn't sell ebikes. It would help to talk about the make/model of your bike. For example, here's a 20" fat tire bike with torque sensor.

Not familiar with a J610. A picture is worth 1K words. Most hubmotor cables incorporate 3 thick wires nd 6 thin. The three thick are phase wires. Red/ground are +5V power. Yellow/Green/Blue are position sensors. White is speed sensor. Temperature sensors are rare in hubmotors.

I think torque sensing is a good feeling on a light bike, maybe not so useful on a heavy one since you have to bust your butt to pedal them. There may also be a cadence function in those rear axle sensors, but I've never been priveleged enough to own a bike with them.

What a lot of people did with Euro mid motors is to intercept the speed sensor signal and divide it. If you got to the white wire above, you could do that. A divide by 2 is easy, followed by resetting the wheel diameter if your display allows the wheels size to be set. Does setting the wheel diameter w/o fiddling with the signal work?

I saw an ebike today motoring down a country road in our town. I road that same route once at 15 mph and almost got rear ended on a hill. I'm not sure going 24-26 mph is any safer, but I do see why people want more speed. Nonetheless, if you have a good bike, would be a shame to gut it to go a little faster. A fat tire bike, if that's what you have, with the accompanying heavy frame is maybe 25 mph on a 48V battery,.

If you want to gut it, buy a display/controller as a combo, probably a 25A controller. Install a PAS sensor. Replace everthing. It woill run a two wire connect to any battery.

It’s an Aventon Abound.
I can’t set/change the wheel diameter, but if I could do some math on the speed sensor wire, that would likely solve the problem

 

[Tom@WashDC]

It’s an Aventon Abound.
I can’t set/change the wheel diameter, but if I could do some math on the speed sensor wire, that would likely solve the problem

It can be accomplished with a new controller and a new matching display. What is your budget for making this modification? You are probably looking at $350-$400 for a decent torque sensing controller, compatible display, and wiring harness.

 

[Benjamin James]

I’m good for that budget.
I need to be able to either match my OEM torque sensor or turf it as well and fit something working.
The products from Grin Tech look promising, but because they seem to be tried and true, they demand a premium. I’m not at that level to spec out what I. We’d from them and they are hesitant to offer suggestions due to potential incompatibility

 

[Tom@WashDC]

I’m good for that budget.
I need to be able to either match my OEM torque sensor or turf it as well and fit something working.
The products from Grin Tech look promising, but because they seem to be tried and true, they demand a premium. I’m not at that level to spec out what I. We’d from them and they are hesitant to offer suggestions due to potential incompatibility

I was going to recommend Grin

 

[Benjamin James]

I was going to recommend Grin

Probably the direction I’m going to go.
Hopefully they will make this journey with me, rather than me doing in spite of them.

It seems like they offer great support after the sale but I’d prefer not to waste my time, nor theirs