Pedals for Vado

[Nxkharra]

Has anyone change the stock pedals on Vado?

Is it as easy to change as other bikes?

What kind of pedals?

Looking for clipless.

Have looked at Shimano, Crank Brothers, and Funn.

 

[jwehman]

I have swapped them out. It’s just as easy as a regular bike. I am using some old pair of Shimano sdp/flat combo pedals.

 

[Sierratim]

Has anyone change the stock pedals on Vado?

Is it as easy to change as other bikes?

What kind of pedals?

Looking for clipless.

Have looked at Shimano, Crank Brothers, and Funn.

My wife have ridden with SPD clipless pedals for years, as do our MTBing sons. I'm not familiar with Funn (no pun intended) pedals, but they have good reviews. My sons switched to Crank Bros 'egg beater' style pedals while racing in high school. They switched back to SPD pedals the next season saying the egg beaters had too much lateral play.

With that said, we didn't initally go with clipless pedals on our Vados as we ride quite a few short errands through town. Clipless seemed to be more trouble than benefit. Since then we have installed Shimano PD-EH500 'campus style' pedals; clipless on one side, flats on the second. They're working out quite well.

 

[Nxkharra]

My wife have ridden with SPD clipless pedals for years, as do our MTBing sons. I'm not familiar with Funn (no pun intended) pedals, but they have good reviews. My sons switched to Crank Bros 'egg beater' style pedals while racing in high school. They switched back to SPD pedals the next season saying the egg beaters had too much lateral play.

With that said, we didn't initally go with clipless pedals on our Vados as we ride quite a few short errands through town. Clipless seemed to be more trouble than benefit. Since then we have installed Shimano PD-EH500 'campus style' pedals; clipless on one side, flats on the second. They're working out quite well.

Thank Tim. As always great info.
I admit I don’t have a clue about terminology.
I used “clipless”. Not sure if I used the correct term.
I don’t want to wear bike shoe with clips.
I have a pair of Specialized MTB flat bottom which I use on longer rides and sneaker on shorter rides.
May be flat pedals with spikes is what I am after.
To what SDP refers?

 

[RTeremi]

Have a look here:

 

[Sierratim]

Thank Tim. As always great info.
I admit I don’t have a clue about terminology.
I used “clipless”. Not sure if I used the correct term.
I don’t want to wear bike shoe with clips.
I have a pair of Specialized MTB flat bottom which I use on longer rides and sneaker on shorter rides.
May be flat pedals with spikes is what I am after.
To what SDP refers?

SPD is the Shimano style clip system for their clipless pedals and adopted by other manufacturers as well. Why do clipless pedals have clips? I think it goes back to pedals that had toe clips. Clipless was used as a term to distinguish between the then prevalent toe clip design and the new attachment systems, like Shimano's SPD design, that did not have toe clips. Go figure.

Anyway, clipless pedals do require cycling shoes with matching hardware in their soles to clip into the clipless pedals....

Flat pedals are popular among a number of riders. @Stefan Mikes uses them and has shared his experince with various shoes as well.

Others have posted their preference for strap style pedals that like the original toe clips allow 'street shoes' to attach to the pedal getting some of the benefits of clipless designs in regards to being able to use more muscle groups while cycling. More range and more hill climbing power from clippling in...just sayin'

 

[Nxkharra]

Have a look here:

Great video. Very informative. Thank you.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Whatever my personal preference is, people praise Race Face Chester spiked pedals (I use CrankBrothers Stamp). And I can be seen in Adidas FiveTen Freerider Pro shoes in almost any picture now

 

[Nxkharra]

SPD is the Shimano style clip system for their clipless pedals and adopted by other manufacturers as well. Why do clipless pedals have clips? I think it goes back to pedals that had toe clips. Clipless was used as a term to distinguish between the then prevalent toe clip design and the new attachment systems, like Shimano's SPD design, that did not have toe clips. Go figure.

Anyway, clipless pedals do require cycling shoes with matching hardware in their soles to clip into the clipless pedals....

Flat pedals are popular among a number of riders. @Stefan Mikes uses them and has shared his experince with various shoes as well.

Others have posted their preference for strap style pedals that like the original toe clips allow 'street shoes' to attach to the pedal getting some of the benefits of clipless designs in regards to being able to use more muscle groups while cycling. More range and more hill climbing power from clippling in...just sayin'

@Sierratim. Are you receiving your private conversations. I sent you one and the system couldn’t find you first.

 

[Sierratim]

@Sierratim. Are you receiving your private conversations. I sent you one and the system couldn’t find you first.

I have not been getting any notifications from these forums for more than a week. My settings seem OK. @Stefan Mikes is reporting a similar problem so I'm assuming it's an issue with this site.

I do see your messages and will respond to them.

 

[Nxkharra]

Is there a good how to Video that is specifically explains changing pedals on a Vado?
Or if you have good suggestions.
Please share.

 

[Nxkharra]

I have not been getting any notifications from these forums for more than a week. My settings seem OK. @Stefan Mikes is reporting a similar problem so I'm assuming it's an issue with this site.

I do see your messages and will respond to them.

I sent you another PM on pedal

 

[Stefan Mikes]

The videos are really instructive. Replacing pedals is very easy. The only disaster to happen is to mismatch the left and the right pedal.

 

[Sierratim]

The videos are really instructive. Replacing pedals is very easy. The only disaster to happen is to mismatch the left and the right pedal.

There is at least one post where the rider was complaining about loose pedals. As it turns out the pedals had been force-threaded into their opposite cranks effectively re-threading the cranks. Held for a short bit, but were failing as the post described.

It is important to get the 'R' pedal on the right/drive side and the 'L' pedal on the non-drive/left side of the bike. If the pedals aren't marked you need to make an educated guess and test fit the pedal into its crank. If it doesn't thread smoothly with little resistance, stop. Try the other crank.

BTW - I always use a bit of anti-sieze compound on the pedal threads to prevent the dissimilar metals (steel pedal threads and aluminum cranks) from bonding. Makes future removal easier.

 

[Nxkharra]

Done. No issues.
thanks to all specially @Sierratim and @Stefan Mikes.
I have replaced the stock Vado 5 pedals with Race Face Chester pedals.
I also will be trying Funn Fundamental and Crank Brothers Stamp 7.
Race Face looks and feels good so might just stay with that.
Hopefully will help the bad knee avoiding some lateral movement in addition to improving performance.
Will be using my Specialized 2FO Flat 2.0 MTB shoes with these pedals.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

There is at least one post where the rider was complaining about loose pedals. As it turns out the pedals had been force-threaded into their opposite cranks effectively re-threading the cranks. Held for a short bit, but were failing as the post described.

It is important to get the 'R' pedal on the right/drive side and the 'L' pedal on the non-drive/left side of the bike. If the pedals aren't marked you need to make an educated guess and test fit the pedal into its crank. If it doesn't thread smoothly with little resistance, stop. Try the other crank.

BTW - I always use a bit of anti-sieze compound on the pedal threads to prevent the dissimilar metals (steel pedal threads and aluminum cranks) from bonding. Makes future removal easier.

Excellent post!

 

[AdminUC78]

Has anyone change the stock pedals on Vado?

Is it as easy to change as other bikes?

What kind of pedals?

Looking for clipless.

Have looked at Shimano, Crank Brothers, and Funn.

Hello, easy peasy to swap pedals. I've always pedaled with Shimano SPD's and opted for the dual platform (flat on one side) EH500 Sport Road Pedals. You could use a wrench or you may be better off buying a standard pedal wrench. BMX style studded platform pedals are also a legitimate option, most of your athletic shoes will stick to them and you shouldn't get any slippage. Have fun choosing a pedal system!

 

[Sierratim]

Many pedals now allow removal with either a pedal or a hex wrench, often 6 or 8mm. A 15mm pedal wrench will fit modern pedals that accept a wrench. Some older pedal designs require a 9/16" wrench. Some, like the Crank Bros egg beater clipless series don't have flats for a pedal wrench so a hex wrench is required.

A conventional mechanic's open end wrench is often too thick to fit the flats on a pedal. Pedal wrenches are thinner so they will fit all pedals that accept wrenches.

Naturally, Park Tool has a tutorial on this.

 

[rochrunner]

Is there a good how to Video that is specifically explains changing pedals on a Vado?
Or if you have good suggestions.
Please share.

The OEM pedals on my Vado don't have the flats for a conventional pedal wrench so you have to use a hex key from the backside of the crank arms. If they're really torqued on, you'll need a hex socket and a ratchet or breaker bar, as the typical 90-degree hex key is too short to get enough leverage.

You also have to think even more about which way to turn it since it's going to be the opposite relative to using a pedal wrench. For example, on the left-side crank, which has a left-hand thread, you would turn a pedal wrench clockwise ("to the right") to loosen the pedals looking from the outside of the crank. But looking from the back side, you would be turning the hex socket in a counter-clockwise direction.

It's really not this complicated -- it just sounds like it!

 

[Sierratim]

The OEM pedals on my Vado don't have the flats for a conventional pedal wrench so you have to use a hex key from the backside of the crank arms. If they're really torqued on, you'll need a hex socket and a ratchet or breaker bar, as the typical 90-degree hex key is too short to get enough leverage.

You also have to think even more about which way to turn it since it's going to be the opposite relative to using a pedal wrench. For example, on the left-side crank, which has a left-hand thread, you would turn a pedal wrench clockwise ("to the right") to loosen the pedals looking from the outside of the crank. But looking from the back side, you would be turning the hex socket in a counter-clockwise direction.

It's really not this complicated -- it just sounds like it!

I always stand at the rear of the bike and press down on the wrench to remove both pedals. Eliminates any confusion on which way to spin the pedal off, esp when they are on very tight.