I have a gazelle c380+ and recently I can't seem to shift into the lowest gear (see the pic attached below, that's about as low as it could go). Has anyone experienced something like this? I'm a newbie to internal gear hubs so not sure what's going on. On my friend's c380+, the lowest gear would be slightly above 3 bars (2 bars for me).
nuvinci n380 hub on c380+
- Thread starter pat2211
- Start date
Dewey
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Arlington, Virginia
Can you see the pulley rotate both ways when you twist the shifter? Lowest gear I think the pulley should rotate clockwise to the top, 12 o’clock position, is it further to the rear at 10 or 11 o‘clock? If Yes It may need new shifter cables, Enviolo sell a tool to help them be cut to the right length.
yes, I can see it rotating. Not sure if this is a visual bug or some problems with the cable. I haven't had any steep hill so far so I didn't notice it.
I booked an appointment already, just need to wait 2 weeks... I'm trying to find a nearby shop with experience in dealing with these hubs in the mean time. I think the pulley was at 10 o'clock... Thanks for the information.
I have a n360 that I laced into a wheel for my wife's bike several years ago and I think the hub interface is the same as a n380. I've had the same thing happen to the n360 as you describe when I didn't properly index the hub when installing the shifting interface. There are videos on how to properly index the hub and install the shifting interface. There is a required process to put the hub in the highest overdrive configuration before installing the interface. It isn't difficult to do but it needs to be done correctly.
If that is the issue with your shifter, as I suspect it is, then you are getting the lowest gearing already but you aren't able to access the highest gear when you have the rider icon in the flat road position as it would if properly adjusted.
If that is the issue with your shifter, as I suspect it is, then you are getting the lowest gearing already but you aren't able to access the highest gear when you have the rider icon in the flat road position as it would if properly adjusted.
Baldhills
Member
- Region
- USA
Make sure that the cables were mounted and adjusted properly. The enviolo web site has the proper install and adjustment procedure.
Also it’s common for the hub and fluid to have a break in period. A lot of people say the bike shifts thru the full range easier after about 50 miles of riding.
Also it’s common for the hub and fluid to have a break in period. A lot of people say the bike shifts thru the full range easier after about 50 miles of riding.
I've got an Origin8 Crawler with a Nuvinci hub and rode it 10 miles a day for about 4 years as a commuter. The thing is basically a Stairmaster posing as a fat bike. It's easier to peddle in the summer when it's 90F out and a real motherhummer to pedal when it's -30F. They say the viscosity of the hub fluid is unaffected by temperature but I don't think that's accurate. I actually loose speed coasting downhill in the winter on this thing. It's bizarre but a great cardio workout.
For your issue, I would check where the shifter cables go into the hub. Sometimes the aluminum "clamp" comes loose and puts slack into the cables. You just have to push it back down so it snaps in. Mine was actually loose from the last time I rode it when I went to take the pic just now . The cables also stretch over time and seem to be affected by temperature too so I've always had to adjust them with the seasons.
The other thing to check is where the cables go into the shifter on the handlebars. There are some nuts you can turn to tighten up the slack in the cables. Be sure to check that clamp on the hub first. If it's loose, you'll have all kinds of slack to take up and it won't clamp down correctly. The best way I've found for adjusting the slack is to roll the shifter grip back and forth to find the play. You'll feel it because the shifter will move the cables around without actually actuating the hub. There will be very little resistance. Alternate between both nuts giving them equal turns. I don't remember which direction to turn them but if you go the wrong way, it will put more play into the cables. as you turn the nuts, you should feel the play decrease to the point where it's gone all together. This is where you want to stop adjusting. If you find your "little dude riding the orange hill" indicator is way off, loosen one of the nuts, and tight the other to adjust the slack in the direction you want to correct for.
For your issue, I would check where the shifter cables go into the hub. Sometimes the aluminum "clamp" comes loose and puts slack into the cables. You just have to push it back down so it snaps in. Mine was actually loose from the last time I rode it when I went to take the pic just now . The cables also stretch over time and seem to be affected by temperature too so I've always had to adjust them with the seasons.
The other thing to check is where the cables go into the shifter on the handlebars. There are some nuts you can turn to tighten up the slack in the cables. Be sure to check that clamp on the hub first. If it's loose, you'll have all kinds of slack to take up and it won't clamp down correctly. The best way I've found for adjusting the slack is to roll the shifter grip back and forth to find the play. You'll feel it because the shifter will move the cables around without actually actuating the hub. There will be very little resistance. Alternate between both nuts giving them equal turns. I don't remember which direction to turn them but if you go the wrong way, it will put more play into the cables. as you turn the nuts, you should feel the play decrease to the point where it's gone all together. This is where you want to stop adjusting. If you find your "little dude riding the orange hill" indicator is way off, loosen one of the nuts, and tight the other to adjust the slack in the direction you want to correct for.
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