Now I get why people change the cassette

As we seem to be making some progress here, working with this same thought, what to do if there's no room for a bigger chainring and the smallest gear on your freewheel is a 13 or 14t?
There are some inexpensive 11-34 seven-speed high quality freewheel clusters on Amazon and eBay. They are about $20. I need to order one today. I am tired of the 13-34 Tourney on one bike. It spins out at 21. The 11-t will be 18% faster. So, it will hit 25 without changing the ring. The swap will take 10 minutes.
 
There are some inexpensive 11-34 seven-speed high quality freewheel clusters on Amazon and eBay. They are about $20. I need to order one today. I am tired of the 13-34 Tourney on one bike. It spins out at 21. The 11-t will be 18% faster. So, it will hit 25 without changing the ring. The swap will take 10 minutes.
We're in total agreement. I was just making a point I tried making a page or 2 back....
 
Self correction: They just jumped in price.
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I know exactly what you mean... Like the experts on here with their own ebike websites that will never admit that they may not know it all. Their condescension towards new posters is exhibited all too often...
Um, wow. And this is different than a snarky@$$ b!0tch hiding behind the anonymity of a contrived name on an internet forum how, exactly?

Capisce, stronzo....
 
Um, wow. And this is different than a snarky@$$ b!0tch hiding behind the anonymity of a contrived name on an internet forum how, exactly?

Capisce, stronzo....
Different in that I don't claim to know everything and am willing to learn from anyone.. Even if they are new to the forum.
Ora mettiti in ginocchio e cerca di non soffocare
 
There are some inexpensive 11-34 seven-speed high quality freewheel clusters on Amazon and eBay. They are about $20. I need to order one today. I am tired of the 13-34 Tourney on one bike. It spins out at 21. The 11-t will be 18% faster. So, it will hit 25 without changing the ring. The swap will take 10 minutes.
What ring you gots on the front?
I find with a 46t...13 is fast enough and can easily go above 25mph. For my leg power 46t seems to be a happy compromise.
Hills here are plenty but not extremely steep so the standard 28 works on the other end.
 
What ring you gots on the front?
I find with a 46t...13 is fast enough and can easily go above 25mph. For my leg power 46t seems to be a happy compromise.
Hills here are plenty but not extremely steep so the standard 28 works on the other end.
You are correct. I just ran the calculations assuming 28 nominal wheels, 70mm cranks, and running at a cadence of 80. 46-13 is about 24 Mph, the 42-11 combo is just over 25. It is 23.6 & 25.4. That bike has a standard 42-t chainring. A smaller ring puts less stress on the clutch and main bearing. When I was dumb I used a 58-t ring on a bike. I wanted to go 50.
 

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What happened with the huge-ass chain ring? Firstly, it took two chains. When I installed it I could only use the three highest gears because the cassette worked like a front derailleur. It would just throw the chain right off the ring. I am still dumb and screwing up everyday. I am just trying not to repeat the same mistakes and keep moving on to bigger ones. I did get it up to speed and that was fun for like six-seconds. Bikes are not meant to go that fast. Sheldon Brown's gear calculator says 39.5 at a cadence of 90. If you haven't seen that site, look it up. It is a great resource.
 
When I was dumb I used a 58-t ring on a bike. I wanted to go 50.
A 58 isn't necessarily dumb, it just hinges on what you have on the rear. I do see a lot of people talking as if one doesn't involve the other or failing to think about how the ratio is what matters, not the gears themselves so much.

It's a lot like aviation fanboys who run their mouths about "this plane can do 9g's!!!" as if that magically makes it more maneuverable without the all-important question "yeah? At what speed?" A 9g turn at 450 knots (F-16A's best turn) and a 6g turn at 300 knots (well within the F-4 Phantom's flight regime) are the same rate of turn and turn radius. There was this whole hubub about the F-35's corner velocity and g rating being lowered making it "less maneuverable" when in fact the rated change made it more maneuverable with less string on the pilot.

Sorry for the tangent. Aviation was my first love until my eyesight went to s*it 30 years ago.


Anyhow -- whilst I am running one -- an 11 tooth rear is kind of ice-skating uphill in terms of just space for the chain to grip. It's why you don't see a lot of cogs smaller than that. My original plan for mine was to put a 58t chainring I already had in my spare parts on it, but it didn't clear the frame. Thing is I would likely have gone with a 12..42 on the rear as that's basically the same as the 53:11-36 I'm running now. That low 58:42 being near identical to the stock 44:32 the bike came with.

Simple division and multiplication. It's not the size of each of them, its' the ratios. That's where I think the confusion sets in for many is we say something like 44:12 or 58:15 when in fact they're spitting distance from each-other.

58 / 12 == 4.83333~
53 / 11 == 4.83838~

A hair under 5:1 is not an excessively absurd ratio.

For reference the stock on mine
44 / 12 == 3.6666~

If we wanted to come close to that, these are all "close enough"
58 / 16 == 3.625
58 / 15 == 3.86666~
53 / 15 == 3.53333~
53 / 14 == 3.78567...

Same on the low end. My Aventon stock (again, 44 when they advertised 46) vs. possible 53 and 58's.

44 / 32 == 1.375
58 / 42 == 1.3809...
53 / 38 == 1.3947...

And what I'm running on the low end is a hair under 7% more:
53 / 36 == 1.47222~

That's why it's more about dialing it in for you, instead of blindly hoping that what came stock meets your needs. Would I recommend the 53:11..36 I'm running for everyone? Of course not. Some might need more. Some might be fine with the 44:12..32 it came with. Some might need to drop down to as few as 32 on the front with anywhere from 32 to 48 on the rear if they do lots of climbing.

It's why the folks who say you've "messed up the low end with the chainring swap" seem to be magically unaware that you can change the rear cogs too.

Hell I know a guy running a 72 on the front he custom made on a flowjet just for looks, who's set up a 20..48 on the rear. I'll see if I can find some pics of that. It sounds absurd, and in terms of weight it is, but his gear ratios range 3.6x to 1.5x -- narrower than what most off the shelf 8 speeds come with stock and inside the relative range of ratio multipliers.
 
Oh and I will say that anything over 5x is probably not a match for anyone but the most crazy die-hard stompers. 58:11 is just asking for it to either be useless, or to actually have the possibility of overstressing components.

Like the narrower chains found on most 1x7 and higher arrangements.
 
When I installed it I could only use the three highest gears because the cassette worked like a front derailleur. It would just throw the chain right off the ring.
Which means you either need to run the b-screw in the whole way, or add a derailleur hanger extension. The change in chain angle on the vertical can cause binding which seems to bind the chain on the bottom in a way that -- as you noted -- turns your rear derailleur into a front one. Found that out with the swap to the 53 tooth, though in my case it was the low gear limit screw was nowhere near where it should have been, and the index was off ~10% which is why it got noisier the larger a rear cog it was on. The switch to the larger cassette is where I really had to run the b adjust in all the way to fit the largest cog.

Basically, you lower the derailleur or get one with a longer arm, that behavior tends to go away.

Again, can't sing the praises of Park Tools derailleur video enough. Took me from zero to hero on the tech in one watch.


Actually slowly going through all their videos, they have a really nice no BS, no myths, no ego approach that "speaks to me."

You change out that cassette or even the chainring, you quadruple check the derailleur alignment. Not just the horizontal indexing, but vertically too! You're changing the angle the chain goes into the derailleur and comes off the top, and in the process might be dropping a tooth or two of contact at the rear.

It's a very fiddly and finicky tech. I "get it now" -- only took 40+ years -- but there are times I still feel like going back to internal gear hubs, weight be damned. JUST because you don't have to dick with it as much. Sadly losing much of the ability to play with your ratios or have as wide a choice of ratios in the process.
 
With a mid-drive a large ring will over stress the clutch and main bearing. Your motor will be burnt toast in 90-days. Bearing play will go from 0.5mm to 3.5mm. It will creak and strain with a wobble. Do not ask me how I know this. It is just too emotionally painful to talk about.😭
 
The freewheel 11-34 arrived today. I rode that bike earlier today and it was spinning out on the freewheel 7th. 11-T will be nice. It is this Public V7 with a motor and some upgrades. A city bike with a motor and gravel tires.
 

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With a mid-drive a large ring will over stress the clutch and main bearing. Your motor will be burnt toast in 90-days. Bearing play will go from 0.5mm to 3.5mm. It will creak and strain with a wobble. Do not ask me how I know this. It is just too emotionally painful to talk about.😭
I definitely could see that being an issue. Overstressing drivetrain components is one of the MANY reasons I didn't go mid-drive.

Though it shouldn't be an issue so long as the ratios are within tolerances, the 58's do get a bit spindly. I can't see that being a problem if you've got just manpower going through it, but running motor power through things sets off my "This is just going to break" alarm at any "useful" gearing for me as a rider.
 
I definitely could see that being an issue. Overstressing drivetrain components is one of the MANY reasons I didn't go mid-drive.

Though it shouldn't be an issue so long as the ratios are within tolerances, the 58's do get a bit spindly. I can't see that being a problem if you've got just manpower going through it, but running motor power through things sets off my "This is just going to break" alarm at any "useful" gearing for me as a rider.
I have and ride both mid and geared hub. The Mid drive is Bafang Ultra powered, pretty much the most power you can buy. At 1500 miles now, the chain and gears are still in pretty good shape. No, not new, but certainly not up for replacement yet. Zero problems to date. Point being, not everyone, or even "most" will have drive train issues with mid drives. To drive the point home further, I weigh 315 lbs and this bike was purchased for use in a very hilly area. So no, it's not doing this well because it's never being pushed hard....

When the Ultra powered bike is compared to a 1000w MAC geared hub powered bike also ridden frequently, I notice the Ultra is a LITTLE pickier about being driven correctly. Kinda like a sports car that's looking for a little more from it's driver to get max performance.

The MAC geared hub bike can be ridden in brain dead simple mode. Get on and go. This bike, even though it's very capable, is the one that guests will be given to ride.....
 
I have and ride both mid and geared hub. The Mid drive is Bafang Ultra powered, pretty much the most power you can buy. At 1500 miles now, the chain and gears are still in pretty good shape. No, not new, but certainly not up for replacement yet. Zero problems to date. Point being, not everyone, or even "most" will have drive train issues with mid drives. To drive the point home further, I weigh 315 lbs and this bike was purchased for use in a very hilly area. So no, it's not doing this well because it's never being pushed hard....

When the Ultra powered bike is compared to a 1000w MAC geared hub powered bike also ridden frequently, I notice the Ultra is a LITTLE pickier about being driven correctly. Kinda like a sports car that's looking for a little more from it's driver to get max performance.

The MAC geared hub bike can be ridden in brain dead simple mode. Get on and go. This bike, even though it's very capable, is the one that guests will be given to ride.....

I concur.

2000mi+ on a standard KMC X8 chain and still no sign of reaching the replacement mark on a 750w mid drive. Again this goes back to tuning the motor properly so power is delivered when and as needed smoothly without heavy lurches forward.
And if you need proof hub drives are for the brain dead... Look at what Che Guevara is always promoting and able to handle 🙃
 
I concur.

2000mi+ on a standard KMC X8 chain and still no sign of reaching the replacement mark on a 750w mid drive. Again this goes back to tuning the motor properly so power is delivered when and as needed smoothly without heavy lurches forward.
And if you need proof hub drives are for the brain dead... Look at what Che Guevara is always promoting and able to handle 🙃
I didn't say that!!! I said they work well for the brain dead. They also work well for anyone else!
 
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