Now I get why people change the cassette

[Gionnirocket]

I did. And you came off as being snotty/snobby in a way that is sadly all too common in cycling. But usually its an analog cyclist looking down their nose at an ebiker. Here we have one flavor of ebiker pooping on others. As a community we need less of this and more recognizance of the overall goal and how we are either moving towards it ... or fighting against it.

I know exactly what you mean... Like the experts on here with their own ebike websites that will never admit that they may not know it all. Their condescension towards new posters is exhibited all too often...
Again I never said that the flavor being discussed doesn't have a purpose... But if you are looking for rider pedal input and you purchased one of these, you may not have done enough homework. Swapping out the drivetrain to less efficient gearing that will probably end up being to difficult to ride without a motor doesn't seem like the best solution to me as it doesn't change fundamentally how the bike functions.
But hey no one ever makes mistakes that should be pointed out for their benefit and let's give them a pat on the back and a trophy too

 

[m@Robertson]

dude... save your fingertips. The problem is you are being a jerk. Its what people were saying to you in this very thread long before I stepped in and added my two cents. Snotty retorts that just add more snot don't make things any better.

I'll say again what I began with: Live and let live. Let people ride the way they want without your attitude polluting the thread.

 

[PSm]

I didn't get this when I first started, but now I am. Because I am not using most of the gears. Basically living exclusively with 6 and 7. 6 for a hill, 7 for everything else.

Ha! I went from gearing to a single 64x20 gear belt drive, and no longer ride my geared bikes . The single speed belt drive is so addictive, quiet, low maintenence, and better to challenge you for fitness. Now gears and a chain seem like a downgrade

 

[Jason Knight]

Swapping out the drivetrain to less efficient gearing that will probably end up being to difficult to ride without a motor doesn't seem like the best solution to me as it doesn't change fundamentally how the bike functions.

Who says it's less efficient? You and that's about it.
I will admit, I DID make the mistake of only swapping the chainring and not taking power off into account, but that's why I later changed the cassette as well. Learning curve.

Since the alleged stock 46:32 == 1.4375, whilst 53:36 == 1.472222~. That's spitting distance and more than rideable. anyone finds it to not be low enough could always add a hanger extension and go 40+. Note I said alleged, my avanture actually came with a 44 despite being advertised as 46. I think this is because I ordered the "small" frame. Also likely why it was total weaksauce.

Hell if you do a lot of climbing, you could always put a 48 on there and exceed the stock ratio. You're acting like you can't up the high and down the low at the same time. Dial it in.

Stock gearing just doesn't fit a lot of riders powered or no and as others have been pointing out, you're just being a jackass about that in this and other threads.

 

[Gionnirocket]

dude... save your fingertips. The problem is you are being a jerk. Its what people were saying to you in this very thread long before I stepped in and added my two cents. Snotty retorts that just add more snot don't make things any better.

I'll say again what I began with: Live and let live. Let people ride the way they want without your attitude polluting the thread.

Ok Mr. Kettle.... No sense in pointing out your color.
I guess you never got over when I schooled you on throttle settings... but here's yourfor trying and your website... be sure to take this opportunity to link to it once again.

 

[m@Robertson]

Ok Mr. Kettle.... No sense in pointing out your color.
I guess you never got over when I schooled you on throttle settings.

You were full of bs then as you are now. And just as wrong. Then as now you are just not worth the endless keyboard commando back/forth.

but here's yourfor trying and your website... be sure to take this opportunity to link to it once again.

I only link my site to relevant, common topics that can help people with their ebike problems, but in the spirit of community, here's a link that might help you with your deportment.

Why People Are Assholes On The Internet

Anonymity makes it easier for people to display their true selves.

byanthonyboyd.com

 

[Gionnirocket]

You were full of bs then as you are now. And just as wrong. Then as now you are just not worth the endless keyboard commando back/forth.

Once again... bitter boy can't help but be a jerk. Its like talking to a 14-year-old.

Yet your ego wouldn't let you just let it end.
And as then you "think" you know everything even when explained clearly and shown visually.
Go ahead, you can admit it... You'll see.. the truth will set you free.
Ohh... and standing by for the d_bag_on_two_wheels link.

 

[m@Robertson]

See above. I changed the post just for you.

 

[Gionnirocket]

See above. I changed the post just for you.

Keeping in mind that you personally attacked me in this thread..it's excellent that you can self reflect... You're making progress. And so nice that you finally revealed yourself Lenard Nimoy.

Now if you only could admit someone knew something you didn't... or more accurately something that you were wrong about.

 

[Jimmy666]

Ha! I went from gearing to a single 64x20 gear belt drive, and no longer ride my geared bikes . The single speed belt drive is so addictive, quiet, low maintenence, and better to challenge you for fitness. Now gears and a chain seem like a downgrade

I may end up going this way myself soon minus the belt. While I like the belt drive I can't find a bike with a removeable battery with a throttle and a belt.
Lately been riding my 7 speed class 3 bike as a single speed class 2 and I actually like it. I used to get all caught up in peak wattage and top speed but I've come to realize that a top speed of 24/25 mph and about 500ish watts is good enough for me and I don't mind putting in a little effort going up hills.

 

[Jason Knight]

I used to get all caught up in peak wattage and top speed but I've come to realize that a top speed of 24/25 mph and about 500ish watts is good enough for me and I don't mind putting in a little effort going up hills.

I hear that. If it weren't for New Hampshire hills and the fact there are a few roads I travel (route 10 between Keene and Swanzey for example) where doing less than 30 will get you killed, I'd agree 100%. Same for a few spots where there are bike path to road crossings where I just need the raw power to have a chance at crossing safely.

But at the same time when I'm on the local "rail trails" or just puttering around downtown, I rarely have any need of anything higher than assist 3 on my Aventure giving me 18-20mph. It's dangerous in those places to even think about higher.

Honestly, anything over 30 on what is still just a bicycle is white-knuckle time anyways. The low mass even with suspension can really work against you when things get pitched sideways. I've taken mine to 35 on a nice flat safe stretch, and honestly I'm glad it doesn't go faster. If I had to I could live with level 2 and 500 watts, there would just be a few places I wouldn't take the bike.

Like up Branch Road to Otter Brook, or out route 9 over Cheshire Hill to Brattleboro VT.

 

[K PierreR]

I have a bike with a 42 tooth chainring and and 11X46 , 11 speed rear cassette. I roll through every gear on a normal ride and shift constantly. I have a 52 volt BBSHD mid drive. I wear out the 13 tooth cog first and the 11 and 15 second. I get probably 3-4 k miles out of my 13 tooth and 5-6 k out of my 11 and 15 tooth. I replace those and can use a 11 speed, 10 speed or 9 speed cog. I use a KMC e bike 11 speed chain and wipe it down every ride and lube every 200 miles or so. It takes me probably all of 20 minutes to change a cog with a 10$ replacement.
I helps that I am riding on tires nearly 31" tall. My normal riding weight, bike and rider is 300+ pounds.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I may end up going this way myself soon minus the belt. While I like the belt drive I can't find a bike with a removeable battery with a throttle and a belt.
Lately been riding my 7 speed class 3 bike as a single speed class 2 and I actually like it. I used to get all caught up in peak wattage and top speed but I've come to realize that a top speed of 24/25 mph and about 500ish watts is good enough for me and I don't mind putting in a little effort going up hills.

So if you're only putting in a little effort going up hills... Are you pretty much ghost pedaling and using the throttle all other times?
What size chain ring are you using and which of the 7 rear cogs?

 

[Jimmy666]

So if you're only putting in a little effort going up hills... Are you pretty much ghost pedaling and using the throttle all other times?
What size chain ring are you using and which of the 7 rear cogs?

Not doing much ghost pedaling at all really and I only use throttle for starts from a stop and the occasional burst. I have a 47 tooth chainring and an 11-32 cassette and when riding normally I only use the top 3 gears and have never needed the lower gears. When I go up a hill I use a decent amount of leg power as I like the grind and the motor is just there to keep me from burning my legs out.

 

[K PierreR]

There are times when I am ghost pedaling in order to get maximum performance out of my bike. That is max power output for climbing.
At a touring weight of 420 lbs and a climb of 20% grade I have 49 amp hours at 52 volts and I need about 1100 watts motor output @130 Nm of torque to climb at about 6 mph. That is a battery draw of 1,500 watts. RPM is about 90 and I can add very little help at those numbers. Mileage is off the charts, but 20% grades do not last that long around here. maybe a minute max.
If I want to put my own power in I am down to around 4-5 mph
Heavy loads and steep climbs is where 250 watts is totally ridiculous. That much power at a whopping eye popping 6mph. Gotta get the weight down.

 

[PedalUma]

@m@Robertson, and @Gionnnirocket, I love you both. Some banter is fun. Please keep it that way. I am doing a vintage bike right now from a maker who won the Tour twice with this frame in the 70's. Not this serial number! The guy is into Mt. Tam climbs so I will keep it at about 37 pounds and am using a 36-T narrow/wide to not lug up the hill.

 

[Rexlion]

Please supply a list of bikes that have a programmable controller able to change what you are talking about. Maybe just a couple? One?

Ride1Up hub ebikes have user adjustable PAS, if that's what you are referring to. From their website: "Fortunately, with most Ride1Up ebikes, you can adjust the level of power output for each individual PAS level directly on the display! Our software gives riders ultimate control over their riding experience." The exception being, of course, their Brose mid drive unit.

 

[Jason Knight]

when riding normally I only use the top 3 gears and have never needed the lower gears.

Which is precisely when I'd go for an even larger chainring to bring those lower unused gears into play, and add even more options on the high end.

Though as I learned the hard way you want to keep the bottom gearing close to stock for when/if you need to ride without the motor. Thus my 53 : 11..36 config. Even in PAS 1 I never need anything lower than 4th, but with power off having that low low gearing is really nice to have.

I might even go for a bigger bottom cog -- 40 or even 44 -- when I build a camper trailer since that's more weight to pull should the motor blow or I accidentally run both my batteries dry.

 

[Gionnirocket]

Which is precisely when I'd go for an even larger chainring to bring those lower unused gears into play, and add even more options on the high end.

Though as I learned the hard way you want to keep the bottom gearing close to stock for when/if you need to ride without the motor. Thus my 53 : 11..36 config. Even in PAS 1 I never need anything lower than 4th, but with power off having that low low gearing is really nice to have.

I might even go for a bigger bottom cog -- 40 or even 44 -- when I build a camper trailer since that's more weight to pull should the motor blow or I accidentally run both my batteries dry.

And that's the point I was trying to make.
If you prefer to ride as a regular bike with some motor assistance in the higher resistance situations, tuning the motor is critical.
There's nothing wrong with riding more of a motor powered bike... But I refer to that as moped style and if that makes you happy, by all means, enjoy.
But all too often on here you read that people need to swap out gearing just to have the bike somewhat usable as a bike with human input and that usually results in still not being able to use all the gears and/or very hard to use without the motor.

Having done both motor and gearing adjustments my bike is rideable in all gears, motor on or off.
edit: I say this not to say that you are doing it wrong or that I am doing it better... but so that those that don't or have a bike without these capabilities know what is possible.

 

[AHicks]

Which is precisely when I'd go for an even larger chainring to bring those lower unused gears into play, and add even more options on the high end.

Though as I learned the hard way you want to keep the bottom gearing close to stock for when/if you need to ride without the motor. Thus my 53 : 11..36 config. Even in PAS 1 I never need anything lower than 4th, but with power off having that low low gearing is really nice to have.

I might even go for a bigger bottom cog -- 40 or even 44 -- when I build a camper trailer since that's more weight to pull should the motor blow or I accidentally run both my batteries dry.

As we seem to be making some progress here, working with this same thought, what to do if there's no room for a bigger chainring and the smallest gear on your freewheel is a 13 or 14t?