OK, let's back up a bit. When you've put enough miles on your cartridge/cassette for it to be due for replacement (at 1000 miles, or 10,000 miles, whenever), which gear goes first? How does that 11t look when compared to the gears with more teeth? Why is that?
If you can't keep up with the motor, then it is the main source of power. Is that really biking or is it more of a moped set up?
All of the Sondors bikes have them since Sondors went away from KT controllers several years ago. There is a PAS settings section where you choose what percentage of the available amps gets sent at 1, then at 2 and so on. The factory settings on those bikes are notoriously heavy handed (just like the Bafang mid drives) and users complaining about the bikes running away from them get sent to this section in the manual pretty regularly. KT controllers have a very limited but still effective C5 setting where you can give less amps to the motor (i.e. pull out its teeth) as well as a separate slow start setting that eliminates the jerky start, at least. And on those as well there is a setting that increases or decreases the increment of PAS from one level to the next higher one (its default is 'no effect').
In the high power DIY builder world, standard advice is that the 11S chains are stronger. Experience over time pretty much proves this out as 11s systems seem to hold up just great under just about everything. I believe the reason for this is that the chain pins are a bit shorter and provide a little less leverage for bad behavior like dumbass shifting technique to spread the side plates and break the chain. However thats just a guess.
Yes thats the way it works on a higher powered mid drive. With bad riding technique you can expect them to die in a few hundred miles. I got one to last 1500 before I cracked it (and that was a 2wd bike on flat land where I left it in 11 and never downshifted, even at stoplights... a special case). On the flip side of that, its only a $7 replacement part.
Didn't say that, or didn't intend to if that's the way you took it. What I was talking about was the scenario, regardless of PAS level, where you can't keep up with the pedals/go any faster, because of the gearing. Imagine YOUR bike if you didn't have a gear/gears available that would allow you to pedal faster than 15mph. Would that have ANYTHING to do with PAS level?
What business is it of anyone how anyone else rides? Live and let live.
Interesting! Didn't know that, thank you! So the Sonders controllers mimic the KT? Do they allow for power based PAS settings (vs. the more common speed based)? I'll have to dig into an owners manual I suppose, to see what's going on there.
I do. "Normal people" don't trust derailleurs. People who don't know how it works, certainly don't know how to adjust or maintain it, likely have never once ridden a properly set up bike since they buy Schwinn's and Huffy's at Wally World, and "every time" they try to use it the chain falls off...
"If you can't keep up with the motor, then it is the main source of power. Is that really biking or is it more of a moped set up?" - One of the best quotes on this thread. So true. I keep telling non enthusiasts that an ebike is not the same idea as a scooter or motorbike
I'm not saying that at all... To each their own and enjoy.
I did go back to the OP's first post, and that's not what I'm reading at all. He's saying the lower gears are useless, and he's riding using only his top 3 gears. Put yourself in his shoes! Are you factoring in the fact he's on a bike with 20" wheels?
Another person who needs a step stool. These mopeds are poorly designed if they have unusable gears and low top speeds
I'm disappointed. You're better and smarter than this.....
Why... Changing cassettes and chain rings in my opinion is throwing good money after bad and isn't the best solution if you are looking to pedal input.
I did. And you came off as being snotty/snobby in a way that is sadly all too common in cycling. But usually its an analog cyclist looking down their nose at an ebiker. Here we have one flavor of ebiker pooping on others. As a community we need less of this and more recognizance of the overall goal and how we are either moving towards it ... or fighting against it.
In that case I'd say you've never ridden one with a drivetrain set up for you properly. The very notion that the off the shelf gearing can be "one size fits all" is absurd, and because most of these bikes seem to be geared as if they aren't e-bikes, it's one of the first changes I planned on making before I even bought it.
You should read more and write less.
Given the attitude you were throwing that didn't seem like the case. But that's a problem with the web, figuring out what tone anyone is using.
Why neuter the output when you could just better leverage it? You're LITERALLY talking about turning it down instead of finding a way to better use it. People don't but 750watt or stronger bikes to make them behave like 250 watt ones.
Ah yes, the twitter-generation "aah wall of text' garbage I have no stomach for. I kind of miss the days when people used to complain that a 16k post limit size on forums was "too small". Now you give the average half-tweet fool 288 characters and their cup doth runneth over.
Oddly that's the argument I'd use for dialing in your gear ratios. You don't put a tow truck transmission on a race car, or a track transmission on a pickup truck. Or a street car transmission on a Semi. Even when all those vehicles have the same horsepower engine.
That's all fine and dandy when you have access to that. As I said in another thread that isn't even an option on many e-bikes, including my Aventure There is no "programming" other than turning the top speed limiter up and down. The closed nature of the controller means we don't have those tools.
