Newb, debating ebike options for hills, trails

I went through a LOT of seats a while back looking for something I could live with. Settled on a Cloud 9 (C9), but not just any C9 (there are actually several models!). I go with the Lycra covered and ventilated model. No more messing around for me. Like this one:

Then after going back and forth with the Thudbuster Lt's, I set it on one of these:

And because of my largish butt (315lbs) I swap the standard spring for one of these:

Works awesome.....
The Cloud 9 cruiser seats look pretty good. I'm having trouble telling if they will mount by the rails or if they can only clamp to the seatpost. My 31.6 seatpost has what looks like a permanent gizmo on top that adjusts rail tilt fore and aft via 2 screws, and the rail channels are about 2" apart. Cloud 9 seems vague about mounting methods. What can you tell me?
 
The Cloud 9 cruiser seats look pretty good. I'm having trouble telling if they will mount by the rails or if they can only clamp to the seatpost. My 31.6 seatpost has what looks like a permanent gizmo on top that adjusts rail tilt fore and aft via 2 screws, and the rail channels are about 2" apart. Cloud 9 seems vague about mounting methods. What can you tell me?
By what I can see, your seat post is a rail design and should accept most saddles.
 
By what I can see, your seat post is a rail design and should accept most saddles.
Reading Amazon reviews is confusing me. On some saddles there are reviews saying "the rails were too far apart" or "the rails were too close together" or, in the case of at least one Cloud 9 review, "it doesn't fit rails, you need to clamp directly to the post." I have no idea if any of the reviewers know what they're doing, though. :p
 
I know! Red Green said that duct tape fixes anything. I could duct tape the Cloud 9 onto the post! :D
Or better still, I can duct tape a boat cushion to the current saddle!!! 🤪
 
Reading Amazon reviews is confusing me. On some saddles there are reviews saying "the rails were too far apart" or "the rails were too close together" or, in the case of at least one Cloud 9 review, "it doesn't fit rails, you need to clamp directly to the post." I have no idea if any of the reviewers know what they're doing, though. :p
Some of these saddles are tough to get onto the Seatpost for sure. On one of my saddles, the clamp was slightly wider. I made some shade tree mods to the rails with the bench vise in the shop and it worked fine for years.

I'll admit though, I've been out of the Bicycle Business since 2009 and have not had a Cloud 9 seat, though they look like a pretty darn good saddle.
 
Some of my earliest C9 seats did have rails that were slightly out of spec. but only by about 1/8" or so. I remember bending them together with a great big pair of channel locks! Lately, they've been fine. No custom "tuning" required.
 
Some of my earliest C9 seats did have rails that were slightly out of spec. but only by about 1/8" or so. I remember bending them together with a great big pair of channel locks! Lately, they've been fine. No custom "tuning" required.
Thanks for that, it helps a bunch. So I decided to spring for a C9 Cruiser Anatomic. Will see in a couple of days how it feels.
 
I went through a LOT of seats a while back looking for something I could live with. Settled on a Cloud 9 (C9), but not just any C9 (there are actually several models!). I go with the Lycra covered and ventilated model. No more messing around for me. Like this one:

Then after going back and forth with the Thudbuster Lt's, I set it on one of these:

And because of my largish butt (315lbs) I swap the standard spring for one of these:

Works awesome.....
I have both. this is scary, 100% in agreement.;)
 
I rode about 25 miles in the last 2 days, with the Cloud 9 seat, and it seems pretty good. 👍 Glad I got it.

To update what I'd posted earlier about my battery, this time it was fully charged to begin those 25 miles, they were mostly at PAS 2 or 3 (it is currently set for 0-3), and it wound up at a bit less than 49V tonight. So, maybe down 1/2 after 25 miles of relatively high power consumption. I'm very satisfied with the range. The available power is also very satisfying, as I am able (if desiring to do so) to maintain 20 mph with modest effort up some hills that would have worn me out in lowest gear on my analog bike. Viva la 750 watts!
 
Here's a new photo of my ride, after installing the new stem to raise the handlebar, the new C9 seat, and a 1000 lumen "headlight" (flashlight in clamp mount).

IMG_1281.JPG


I now have a nice upright riding stance, which is what I was after.
 
A little update. My battery capacity has improved after a few charge cycles. Today I rode 15 miles, and adding that to the 20 miles since the last charge, I've gone 35 miles at which point the battery was down to 46.2V (icon showing 1/4 charge remaining, which seems about right). Topped off, it reaches a bit over 54V. So probably ~42V would be the end. I'm charging it now, though.

I did notice a loss of power when using PAS 3 (set for 0-3) up a pretty steep hill, toward the end of the ride when voltage was somewhat below 48V. By the time I was near the top of the hill I could feel the motor was just not putting out as much help as it had been moments before, and the sound it was making changed pitch. I figure the 750W MXUS motor is probably searching for more amperage to make up for the decline in voltage, and not finding it. (I probably could raise the amp setting in the display, but I figure they set it where they set it for a good reason, so I'll leave it alone.) Thereafter, climbing similar hills in PAS 2 and supplying more leg effort did not yield a similar power loss sensation. It's just a factor I'll take into account in the future.
 
A little update. My battery capacity has improved after a few charge cycles. Today I rode 15 miles, and adding that to the 20 miles since the last charge, I've gone 35 miles at which point the battery was down to 46.2V (icon showing 1/4 charge remaining, which seems about right). Topped off, it reaches a bit over 54V. So probably ~42V would be the end. I'm charging it now, though.

I did notice a loss of power when using PAS 3 (set for 0-3) up a pretty steep hill, toward the end of the ride when voltage was somewhat below 48V. By the time I was near the top of the hill I could feel the motor was just not putting out as much help as it had been moments before, and the sound it was making changed pitch. I figure the 750W MXUS motor is probably searching for more amperage to make up for the decline in voltage, and not finding it. (I probably could raise the amp setting in the display, but I figure they set it where they set it for a good reason, so I'll leave it alone.) Thereafter, climbing similar hills in PAS 2 and supplying more leg effort did not yield a similar power loss sensation. It's just a factor I'll take into account in the future.
Could it be motor overheating, so throttling? Most batteries, AFAIK, won't decrease amp draw as they run down. at least not by much. For most batteries, the internal resistance controls maximum current, and for Lion batteries, it's fairly flat from full to discharged.
 
I notice the bikes aren't as "peppy" below about 48v. I think the bigger your motor, the more effect the lower voltage will have. On my Ultra powered bike for instance (able to pull 1600w), if I give it full throttle at about 45v, there's so much voltage "sag" it will shut the bike right down as the low voltage shut off is something just under 42v. Thankfully, all I have to do is back off on the throttle and the bike powers back up. Some you have to literally turn on again. Still, not cool to have happen while crossing a busy road for instance....

Anyway, knowing this in advance, I charge when I see 46-47v indicated.
 
I notice the bikes aren't as "peppy" below about 48v. I think the bigger your motor, the more effect the lower voltage will have. On my Ultra powered bike for instance (able to pull 1600w), if I give it full throttle at about 45v, there's so much voltage "sag" it will shut the bike right down as the low voltage shut off is something just under 42v. Thankfully, all I have to do is back off on the throttle and the bike powers back up. Some you have to literally turn on again. Still, not cool to have happen while crossing a busy road for instance....

Anyway, knowing this in advance, I charge when I see 46-47v indicated.
Bum battery! What cells? Ah? Built by?

i hammered my BBSHD motors and NEVER a sag like that. My 7 year 36v old pack yes…
Bummer.
 
Bum battery! What cells? Ah? Built by?

i hammered my BBSHD motors and NEVER a sag like that. My 7 year 36v old pack yes…
Bummer.
It's a 2 year old factory Rize battery, 19.1ah, and has the same range it had when new (35 miles or so, in the hills, with me on it) so I doubt there's anything wrong with it. Maybe I should have said "full throttle from a stop" because that's the only time I've noticed it - when crossing a busy road.
 
It's a 2 year old factory Rize battery, 19.1ah, and has the same range it had when new (35 miles or so, in the hills, with me on it) so I doubt there's anything wrong with it. Maybe I should have said "full throttle from a stop" because that's the only time I've noticed it - when crossing a busy road.
Which cells? My 50E 4P and 35E 5P packs wont sag that badly. @m@Robertson, you run BBSHD. Do you see this?
 
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Which cells? My 50E 4P and 35E 5P packs wont sag that badly. @m@Robertson, you run BBSHD. Do see this?
I didn't ask Tom. Really don't care. The pack see's 45v only rarely as I charge when I see a reading in the 46's.
 
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