New Voltbike Yukon 750 spotted

ace20ri said:
I was really hoping to find a 30A controller to push the motor a little more with the default power electronics but can't push it past 16A without drastically decreasing the controller life (80% is my rule of thumb). 480W is not enough torque to get my weight going fast enough from stand still for my liking so a little more amperage for me.
Click to expand...
Can you explain this a little bit? How did you get "480W"? Did you multiply 48V x 10A current? You said it can be pushed to 16A... does that mean the motor peaks at 48Vx16A=768W? A freshly charged battery is around 54.6V, right? So 54.6Vx16A=874W peak?

Most importantly, how did you push it to 16A, when the "Rated Current is only 10A? How did you know it was running at 16A? Thanks again!

For reference, my limited knowledge is that:

- Individual 18650 cells run from 3.0V (dead) to 4.2V (fully charged). Nominal "resting" voltage is 3.7V.

- The Yukon 750 uses quality Panasonic 2600 mAh cells. That is why our battery is rated at 10.4 Ah (4 bundles x 2600 mAh)

- In our bike's battery, we have 4 bundles of 13 cells = 52 Panasonic 18650 cells.

Voltages are:
(13 cells x 3.0V/cell) = 39.0V (dead)
(13 cells x 3.7V/cell) = 48.0V (nominal)
(13 cells x 4.2V/cell) = 54.6V (fully charged)

- This is the battery standard we use: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) There is a longer version, but we use the shorter 440mm/52 cells version. The longer version is 505mm/65 cells

- Yukon 750's controller cuts off at 41.0V to protect the cells.
 
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Wow they shoved all that into the frame? Interesting. About the derailleur guard, what one did you buy? This bike is pretty heavy even though it doesn't feel like it to me, so it is probably worth buying one. Also. What slap guards are you guys using?
 
@Josh88 Please refer to post #39 (page 2) of this thread for a picture of the derailleur guard. I bought the style with 2-screws. I bought it at a local CanadianTire store. Very easy to replace and cost $6.00:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?q=ccm derailleur

For the Chainstay protector, make sure you buy as large as possible because it has to wrap around the motor wire as well. The standard size is too small to wrap around the motor wire.
 
@SuperGoop I was referring to the nominal battery voltage of 48v and the maximum current setting parameter in the LCD display as 10A. I set it to 16A. As you listed there are far more things to consider when speaking about power to the motor since the cells have voltage ranges and behave differently at different currents. Another thing to consider is the "C" rating of the battery as well which impacts the voltage range of the cell for cycle life. Not sure how "smart" our battery packs are but there could be some de-rating designed in for the charge/discharge cycles.

Another day I will take the controller apart to see what mosfets are used and the voltage the capacitors can handle. Hopefully the capacitors are rated at min 63V ( higher would be better) for better efficiency (minimize losses).

@Josh88 On this page I listed the derailleur protector and slap guard I purchased. As @SuperGoop stated both are definitely worth the purchase and really inexpensive to save future expensive repairs.
 
Ok thank you. I will just have to go back and re read the thread when I have time.... What PSI are you guys running your tires? I have mine at 20psi. I'd like a little more cushion so I might try 10.
 
@Josh88 I am running 20psi as well right now since I am riding mostly bike lanes for my commute to work. I do want to try 15psi to see if there is a noticeable difference.
 
We just got about 3 inches of fresh snow, so I may go out and try the bike out in it. I'll lower my pressure down to 10 before I do it though.
 
Happy New Year!

I bike 25 miles roundtrip for my commute to work and have a bad back from my football days in college. So the aggressive place of the handle bars was a little too much on my back. I added a stem extender from OUTERDO to raise the handle bars ~3" (75mm) for a more up right ride. Feels so much better on my back!

OUTERDO Bicycle Bike Handlebar Fork Stem Extender

Before:
IMG_2603.jpeg


After:
IMG_2606.jpeg


@Voltbike A better snap shot of the overall bike (more scenic one to follow soon):
IMG_2608.jpg


I also ordered the Classic 2.0 Garment Pannier so that I can stop using a back pack for further relief. It is arriving January 4th so I will post a pic when that is installed.
 
What is that black rectangular thing in your rear spokes? Is that a phone holder on your handlebar? It looks big, but maybe it is because of the perspective. What kind of phone holder are you using?
 
SuperGoop said:
What is that black rectangular thing in your rear spokes? Is that a phone holder on your handlebar? It looks big, but maybe it is because of the perspective. What kind of phone holder are you using?
Click to expand...

The rectangular thing on my rear spoke is my RF tag for commuting to work. Tesla provides incentives for employees to ride bikes and they track our daily commutes with this tag. Perspective isn't playing with your mind, the phone holder is pretty big and bulky but saved my iPhone 6+ & 7+ numerous times from rain and debris. Here is the link to the phone holder on Amazon: Tigra BikeConsole I will try and post a picture of it tomorrow with the phone installed for a better perspective.
 
Echo the sentiments of SuperGoop, spoke to George before ordering my new Black 750 Limited.
Very helpful.
He informed me that my bike will have the bosses for water bottle installed and they have changed the handle bars upgraded the brake lever (waterproof) and improved the grips
 
ace20ri said:
@SuperGoop I was referring to the nominal battery voltage of 48v and the maximum current setting parameter in the LCD display as 10A. I set it to 16A. As you listed there are far more things to consider when speaking about power to the motor since the cells have voltage ranges and behave differently at different currents. Another thing to consider is the "C" rating of the battery as well which impacts the voltage range of the cell for cycle life. Not sure how "smart" our battery packs are but there could be some de-rating designed in for the charge/discharge cycles.

Another day I will take the controller apart to see what mosfets are used and the voltage the capacitors can handle. Hopefully the capacitors are rated at min 63V ( higher would be better) for better efficiency (minimize losses).

@Josh88 On this page I listed the derailleur protector and slap guard I purchased. As @SuperGoop stated both are definitely worth the purchase and really inexpensive to save future expensive repairs.
Click to expand...
ace20ri said:
@SuperGoop I was referring to the nominal battery voltage of 48v and the maximum current setting parameter in the LCD display as 10A. I set it to 16A. As you listed there are far more things to consider when speaking about power to the motor since the cells have voltage ranges and behave differently at different currents. Another thing to consider is the "C" rating of the battery as well which impacts the voltage range of the cell for cycle life. Not sure how "smart" our battery packs are but there could be some de-rating designed in for the charge/discharge cycles.

Another day I will take the controller apart to see what mosfets are used and the voltage the capacitors can handle. Hopefully the capacitors are rated at min 63V ( higher would be better) for better efficiency (minimize losses).

@Josh88 On this page I listed the derailleur protector and slap guard I purchased. As @SuperGoop stated both are definitely worth the purchase and really inexpensive to save future expensive repairs.
Click to expand...
SuperGoop said:
Can you explain this a little bit? How did you get "480W"? Did you multiply 48V x 10A current? You said it can be pushed to 16A... does that mean the motor peaks at 48Vx16A=768W? A freshly charged battery is around 54.6V, right? So 54.6Vx16A=874W peak?

Most importantly, how did you push it to 16A, when the "Rated Current is only 10A? How did you know it was running at 16A? Thanks again!

For reference, my limited knowledge is that:

- Individual 18650 cells run from 3.0V (dead) to 4.2V (fully charged). Nominal "resting" voltage is 3.7V.

- The Yukon 750 uses quality Panasonic 2600 mAh cells. That is why our battery is rated at 10.4 Ah (4 bundles x 2600 mAh)

- In our bike's battery, we have 4 bundles of 13 cells = 52 Panasonic 18650 cells.

Voltages are:
(13 cells x 3.0V/cell) = 39.0V (dead)
(13 cells x 3.7V/cell) = 48.0V (nominal)
(13 cells x 4.2V/cell) = 54.6V (fully charged)

- This is the battery standard we use: (Link Removed - No Longer Exists) There is a longer version, but we use the shorter 440mm/52 cells version. The longer version is 505mm/65 cells

- Yukon 750's controller cuts off at 41.0V to protect the cells.
Click to expand...
 
ace20ri said:
@SuperGoop I was referring to the nominal battery voltage of 48v and the maximum current setting parameter in the LCD display as 10A. I set it to 16A. As you listed there are far more things to consider when speaking about power to the motor since the cells have voltage ranges and behave differently at different currents. Another thing to consider is the "C" rating of the battery as well which impacts the voltage range of the cell for cycle life. Not sure how "smart" our battery packs are but there could be some de-rating designed in for the charge/discharge cycles.

Another day I will take the controller apart to see what mosfets are used and the voltage the capacitors can handle. Hopefully the capacitors are rated at min 63V ( higher would be better) for better efficiency (minimize losses).

@Josh88 On this page I listed the derailleur protector and slap guard I purchased. As @SuperGoop stated both are definitely worth the purchase and really inexpensive to save future expensive repairs.
Click to expand...
Are you talking about the YUKON 750? Are you using the Intelligent LCD display? How did you change the LCD display from 10A to 16A? What is the result when you made this change?
 
SuperGoop said:
@stan My default Current is already set to 15A, so I didn't change mine. To change it, following the instructions to go to the "Advanced Settings". The password is "1919". The current setting is under "CUL".

Manual: http://www.voltbike.ca/images/Voltbike_Mariner_LCD.pdf
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info, do you know whether there would be any problems if I set it at 20A? Do you know what the settings after CUL , ...HA L, AS S, Hd6 and HdP control or what they stand for ? Do you live in Canada?
 
So my new Yukon 750 arrived a couple of weeks ago.
https://im1.shutterfly.com/ng/servi...5/media/102450606737/large/1485813082/enhance

The box that it came in was Huge and thick. The downside is that it came with a lot of white foam sheets and blocks which were a bitch to dispose of. I've seen other bikes a little more responsibly packed.

The bike came with the new bosses and a water bottle cage although my water bottle was too tall due to the dropped bar.
In any event I put a small hand pump on that spot so all is good.
Had a chance to got out on this beast and I'm really pleased.

I come from a motorcycle background and have been an avid cyclist as well, this thing is kind of in between.
 
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