Never Raise The Handlebars In Your E-Bike (2023 update)

[jackducan]

I can enjoy a good trip with this wake 45mm mountain bike stem. This mountain bike stem only weighs 130 grams and is easy to maneuver with a 31.8 handlebar and a 28.6 mm steerer diameter. This 6061 T6 Aluminum alloy bike stem is my fave. Such an alloy is known for its good formability and malleability. Everything about this bike stem is solid, snug, yet lightweight and versatile.

 

[JES2020]

I can enjoy a good trip with this wake 45mm mountain bike stem. This mountain bike stem only weighs 130 grams and is easy to maneuver with a 31.8 handlebar and a 28.6 mm steerer diameter. This 6061 T6 Aluminum alloy bike stem is my fave. Such an alloy is known for its good formability and malleability. Everything about this bike stem is solid, snug, yet lightweight and versatile.

This is how I made my mountain bike handlebars into a cruiser type.
BTW the extensions also serve and a jack to protect my attachments on the handlebar, when the bike is upside down.
Total cost, $12

 

[Merle Nelson]

Great thread Stefan Mikes. A lot of fantastic info gathered together.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Follow Up After More Than Two Years

I raised the handlebars of my Vado about two years ago (November 2019). It was the 75 mm A-HEAD stem riser I mentioned in the original post. Two years of riding and 10,200 km on my Vado 5.0 gave me a good lesson, and I want to share my recent views with you.

Raising the stem makes the riding position more upright, true. At the same time, most of your body weight will rest on the saddle. If you set off for short rides, good for you. However, riding in upright position (with almost no weight on your arms) will make your butt ache past the 40 km (25 mi) on that ride. I have ofteen been riding for longer distances, say, 80-100 km (50-62 mi) and more (my longest ride being 168 km or 104 mi). My backside was not only suffering temporarily. Frequent long distance riding made the issues accumulate in my butt (I will spare you details).

Having said the above, I need to tell you the upright riding position is not necessarily the best for long rides. That's why sporty bikes and e-bikes have their stem located at the same level as the seat, or even lower. If you take a more forward position on your e-bike, part of your body weight will shift to your arms, relieving your butt.

My recent mods to my two current e-bikes have been:

1. Vado SL: Moving the stem all way down (as much as possible). The stem got located well below the saddle
2. "Big" Vado: Moving the stem down to its original position, that is, removing the stem riser. Now, the stem is inline with the saddle.

You would be surprised how these changed did me good:

• More aero position made my body act less as an air drag brake
• I stopped suffering the ass ache even on a 100 km ride
• A terrible pain in a muscle/nerves on my shoulder (near to my neck) stopped manifesting itself.

The biggest surprise to me was how easy the transition from the upright to more forward riding position was for me! I can attribute that to the extensive experience I gained on long rides. I stopped worrying so much

You could, however, say: "I feel pain in my arms and hands post-ride done in the forward position". I would agree. The grip such as Ergon GP2 or GP3, or truly ergonomic SQlab Innerbarends 411 will make miracles for you!

The bottom line: Raising the stem will make your back straight at the cost of increased air drag and pita Riding in a more forward position will save your ass!

P.S. Sometimes, the things are not straightforward. I transferred my Trance E+ Pro 2 size M to my brother. He is far taller than I am! To compensate for that, he had to pull the seat-post up to the top allowable position. The 75 mm stem riser in his Trance moved the bars up but the stem is still located lower than the saddle! If not the stem riser, my brother would be riding with his head below his butt!

 

[AHicks]

Didn't read every note so pardon me if this has been covered already, but it's not just about installing stem parts and/or handlebars. You need to be very careful that your install doesn't over extend the brake lines and shifter cables when turned fully from side to side. Problems with either could leave in a whole world of hurt. As a 70 year old 6'2" rider, I can tell you that I prefer a fairly upright riding position. Doing what I need to do to get the handlebars up to the point I'm comfortable nearly always involves issues with the brake lines and shifter cable. That's just part of the job. Biggest point is that when you have the handlebars where you want them, make sure you can turn them all the way without stretching anything beyond their limits. Sometimes you can reroute as required, other times it's going to be about running new/longer brake lines and shifter cables.... -Al

 

[theemartymac]

I have come from a long downhill/XC biking background, but as I've moved into the city I have also learned a few lessons on my own when it comes to my riding position. Here are a few of mine, and of course, I can't speak for others.

1. Upright is right in the city - In traffic, a vertical position makes a world of difference when I'm constantly scanning 360 for traffic and pedestrians. Just like on a car, Mirrors can only do so much.
2. As you get further upright, seat suspension matters - I have found I appreciate "more seat" in both size and spring/suspension capacity in the vertical position, and my traditional saddles are useless here.
3. Dynamic positioning is critical - Having a longer commute (20+kms each way) grips with multiple positions, seats large enough to shift around on (a little), and platform pedals that allow a little variability all make the upright position much more tolerable.

But you can't argue with the basic fact that wind management is better with aero positioning, and weight distribution can certainly be useful for the true high milers. I don't think there is really a right answer, but we can all learn from each other and find what works for each of us.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have come from a long downhill/XC biking background, but as I've moved into the city I have also learned a few lessons on my own when it comes to my riding position. Here are a few of mine, and of course, I can't speak for others.

1. Upright is right in the city - In traffic, a vertical position makes a world of difference when I'm constantly scanning 360 for traffic and pedestrians. Just like on a car, Mirrors can only do so much.
2. As you get further upright, seat suspension matters - I have found I appreciate "more seat" in both size and spring/suspension capacity in the vertical position, and my traditional saddles are useless here.
3. Dynamic positioning is critical - Having a longer commute (20+kms each way) grips with multiple positions, seats large enough to shift around on (a little), and platform pedals that allow a little variability all make the upright position much more tolerable.

It is certainly an interesting viewpoint! Many urban e-bikes are just designed to be ridden in very upright position.

But you can't argue with the basic fact that wind management is better with aero positioning, and weight distribution can certainly be useful for the true high milers. I don't think there is really a right answer, but we can all learn from each other and find what works for each of us.

When I first raised the bars on my Vado, I liked the more upright riding position very much, and was almost happy with that for two years. The only thing that was making me really suffer was my sore butt (and shoulder). Now, after lowering the bars in my both current e-bikes, I'm really surprised it has not been as a dramatic change as one might think, and my bottom (and shoulder) are happy

 

[Merle Nelson]

Great insights.

 

[PedalUma]

Great insights.

For me, being able to change up positions is important on longer rides. I like to ride the hoods, the top with a rise, the flair, and then tuck.

 

[Garyy]

The general rule is for the handlebars to be level with or above the seat height. You can use a quill stem to raise your handlebar. The recommended handlebar height is 200 mm, but it also depends on your body measurements.