Need opinions from Creo and Vado SL riders

[Rincon]

Any suggestions for an easy method to raise my ALUMINUM (not sure that makes any difference) Creo's handlebars? That means taking into account that it has Future Shock as part of its setup. I don't know the dimensions/diameter of the bars where the stem attaches.

1. Flip the stem upside down so that it is angled up.

2. Install a shorter stem.

3. Install a stem angled more up than the current stem.

4. Combine 2 and 3.

Look up your bike’s specs on the manufacture’s website.

 

[kahn]

1. Flip the stem upside down so that it is angled up.

2. Install a shorter stem.

3. Install a stem angled more up than the current stem.

4. Combine 2 and 3.

Look up your bike’s specs on the manufacture’s website.

Unfortunately, that info is not part of the specs. I guess I can see what my low quality caliper shows.

 

[Calcoaster]

If your creo has the factory setup that I have seen, you have a +- 6 deg. stem installed in the -6 deg. position, and with room for three 5mm spacers under it. Flipping the stem over and adding the spacers will raise your bars 37mm and decrease the reach by 11mm (assuming your stem is 110 length).

Btw, -6 deg. Means the stem itself is 6 deg. Less than 90 (84). Since the head tube is 73 deg. That puts your 84 deg. stem 11 degrees up from horizontal to ground reference. Flipped, at +6 it will be 96-73, or 23 degrees up from horizontal.
Here’s a graphic tool that calculates and compares various stem sizes.

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

yojimg.net

 

[mschwett]

I think that I need to raise the handlebars on my Creo. I've had a pinched nerve in my neck in the past and the last few rides I've been getting a touch of vertigo. I think I'm craning my head/neck up too much. Any suggestions for an easy method to raise my ALUMINUM (not sure that makes any difference) Creo's handlebars? That means taking into account that it has Future Shock as part of its setup. I don't know the dimensions/diameter of the bars where the stem attaches.

my LBS fitted a standard stem (31.8mm diameter) with a 17 degree rise (an additional 21mm of rise compared to the stock 6mm, both facing "up") using a very simple aluminum collar. they seemed to have them in every size, i don't know if the future shock 1.5 has a different outer diameter than the future shock 2.0, but it didn't seem like rocket science. they just pulled it out of a drawer and stuck it on.

i later got a different specialized stem, which had a still different ±25mm diameter (somewhere in between) and they pulled a different tube out of a drawer. have you checked with your dealer/shop?

 

[kahn]

If your creo has the factory setup that I have seen, you have a +- 6 deg. stem installed in the -6 deg. position, and with room for three 5mm spacers under it. Flipping the stem over and adding the spacers will raise your bars 37mm and decrease the reach by 11mm (assuming your stem is 110 length).

Btw, -6 deg. Means the stem itself is 6 deg. Less than 90 (84). Since the head tube is 73 deg. That puts your 84 deg. stem 11 degrees up from horizontal to ground reference. Flipped, at +6 it will be 96-73, or 23 degrees up from horizontal.
Here’s a graphic tool that calculates and compares various stem sizes.

Stem Comparison Tool | yojimg.net

yojimg.net

The spacers are already in there. I did and undid them a few times finally opting for IN. I also replaced the "plastic" spacers with machined metal ones from the Youtuber whose video showed me how to add/remove them. Flipping the stem sounds the easiest at the moment.

I should post a picture comparing/contrasting the Creo with my custom frame where the handlebars are way UP there.

 

[kahn]

my LBS fitted a standard stem (31.8mm diameter) with a 17 degree rise (an additional 21mm of rise compared to the stock 6mm, both facing "up") using a very simple aluminum collar. they seemed to have them in every size, i don't know if the future shock 1.5 has a different outer diameter than the future shock 2.0, but it didn't seem like rocket science. they just pulled it out of a drawer and stuck it on.

i later got a different specialized stem, which had a still different ±25mm diameter (somewhere in between) and they pulled a different tube out of a drawer. have you checked with your dealer/shop?

I have not checked with them. I'm thinking of adding the remote power up/down buttons. I know the shop's estimated turnaround, even for my "special membership" is a bit on the slow side. So doing it myself for a quick comparison might be in the offing.

Oh, stems and spacers are within my ability. I don't tweak derailleurs or brakes - beyond my skill set.

And THANKS, all responders - much appreciated.

 

[Calcoaster]

The spacers are already in there. I did and undid them a few times finally opting for IN. I also replaced the "plastic" spacers with machined metal ones from the Youtuber whose video showed me how to add/remove them. Flipping the stem sounds the easiest at the moment.

I should post a picture comparing/contrasting the Creo with my custom frame where the handlebars are way UP there.

If flipping the stem doesn’t give you enough height, there are lots of steeper options. On my road bike, I use a specialized 24 deg. Stem with shims that allow +- 6 deg. In 2 deg. Steps. The stem calculator I linked to will show you what your options will do. Good luck!
I just got a Vado sl because of my neck issues. So far it seems a lot more comfortable than my roubaix position.

 

[kahn]

Unless my spacial analysis just looking is skewed, I think the stem already is in the UP direction???

And handlebar height comparison

 

[stw]

I think that I need to raise the handlebars on my Creo. I've had a pinched nerve in my neck in the past and the last few rides I've been getting a touch of vertigo. I think I'm craning my head/neck up too much. Any suggestions for an easy method to raise my ALUMINUM (not sure that makes any difference) Creo's handlebars? That means taking into account that it has Future Shock as part of its setup. I don't know the dimensions/diameter of the bars where the stem attaches.

I'm going to assume you have a model of Creo whose Future Shock fork steerer is aluminum(?). If your bike has a carbon fibre steerer then the solutions would be different.
Glancing at the Creo models on the Specialized website, it looks like they all have a standard removable faceplate stem for a 31.8 bar (now standard) and a 28.6mm/1.125" steerer (also pretty standard). If so, it means you can choose a riser stem to raise your bars. I've linked a couple below that both focus on raising the bar, but there are many threadless riser stems out there on the market to consider.

Before you get a new stem, look at your installed stem to see if flipping it will use a higher rise? It depends on the stem--the stock stems on the Creo models on the Specialized website look 90 deg or pretty close which means their angle won't change if you flip it :-( Post a photo of your bike and folks here can help you determine that. Most threadless stems work fine inverted--the one on my attached photo above was flipped from stock to lower it and the difference in height was 3-4cm.

Here's one that adds instant height and looks good: Velo Orange's Happy Stem. They offer choices of 9cm or 11cm extension and silver or black. If your Creo stem set-up is the same as the stock models on the Specialized page, this could be a 5 minute install replacing your stock stem.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/stems/products/vo-happy-stem-31-8mm
For someone who needed a lot of height, there are stems in this swan neck shape:

Cigne Stem

Get your bars up high with the Cigne Stem. The design is inspired by gooseneck and LD stems by Ibis and Cunningham, but with a 31.8mm 2-bolt removable faceplate.

velo-orange.com

There are now good quality handlebars that have some rise built in. I learned about this Soma Condor bar (below) from EBR member PedalUma. The stock Creo handlebars I see on their site already have some rise built in so maybe this would not add enough. Plus it would require more install complications to move levers and tape over from old bar to new bar. The name riser drop bar contains a contradiction that makes me smile so I consider that a plus ;-)

Condor 2 Handlebar - Soma Fabrications

www.somafab.com

If you haven't replaced a threadless removable face-place stem before, I or someone here on EBR can describe the process and you can decide if you want to try it. Very simple and it's good for riders to know how to fix/adjut their stems, but it is is a critical bike part you want to get right before you ride ;-)

Edit: Ah, my reply was slow and you already have posted your photos and answered the stem-flip question. Yes, I think you're right your stock stem is already in the position where it would have most rise. From your photos it looks like a carbon frame/fork but the stock stem looks like the kind of conventional aluminum alloy stem that gets installed on an aluminum steerer. I treat carbon steerers with kid gloves, but it may be that this kind of aluminum alloy stem gets installed on carbon steerers too. Either way, this aluminum stem attached below is essentially the same thing made from the same metal as your stock stem, so I don't see a reason you couldn't switch one to the other.

 

[stw]

by the way, great bike, and great taste in rear-view mirrors and bells--I have the Spurcycle bell on my bikes too.

 

[Calcoaster]

Yes, your stem has already been flipped to the +6 position, and I agree with Stw’s caution about using stem risers on a carbon steerer tube. The riser manufacturers say not to do that. Besides a more angled stem, there are some drop bars with more rise than the 15mm yours has.
Those old quill stems like your other bike uses sure made setting bar height easy.

 

[kahn]

I'm going to assume you have a model of Creo whose Future Shock fork steerer is aluminum(?). If your bike has a carbon fibre steerer then the solutions would be different.
Glancing at the Creo models on the Specialized website, it looks like they all have a standard removable faceplate stem for a 31.8 bar (now standard) and a 28.6mm/1.125" steerer (also pretty standard). If so, it means you can choose a riser stem to raise your bars. I've linked a couple below that both focus on raising the bar, but there are many threadless riser stems out there on the market to consider.

Before you get a new stem, look at your installed stem to see if flipping it will use a higher rise? It depends on the stem--the stock stems on the Creo models on the Specialized website look 90 deg or pretty close which means their angle won't change if you flip it :-( Post a photo of your bike and folks here can help you determine that. Most threadless stems work fine inverted--the one on my attached photo above was flipped from stock to lower it and the difference in height was 3-4cm.

Here's one that adds instant height and looks good: Velo Orange's Happy Stem. They offer choices of 9cm or 11cm extension and silver or black. If your Creo stem set-up is the same as the stock models on the Specialized page, this could be a 5 minute install replacing your stock stem.
https://velo-orange.com/collections/stems/products/vo-happy-stem-31-8mm
For someone who needed a lot of height, there are stems in this swan neck shape:

Cigne Stem

Get your bars up high with the Cigne Stem. The design is inspired by gooseneck and LD stems by Ibis and Cunningham, but with a 31.8mm 2-bolt removable faceplate.

velo-orange.com

There are now good quality handlebars that have some rise built in. I learned about this Soma Condor bar (below) from EBR member PedalUma. The stock Creo handlebars I see on their site already have some rise built in so maybe this would not add enough. Plus it would require more install complications to move levers and tape over from old bar to new bar. The name riser drop bar contains a contradiction that makes me smile so I consider that a plus ;-)

Condor 2 Handlebar - Soma Fabrications

www.somafab.com

If you haven't replaced a threadless removable face-place stem before, I or someone here on EBR can describe the process and you can decide if you want to try it. Very simple and it's good for riders to know how to fix/adjut their stems, but it is is a critical bike part you want to get right before you ride ;-)

Edit: Ah, my reply was slow and you already have posted your photos and answered the stem-flip question. Yes, I think you're right your stock stem is already in the position where it would have most rise. From your photos it looks like a carbon frame/fork but the stock stem looks like the kind of conventional aluminum alloy stem that gets installed on an aluminum steerer. I treat carbon steerers with kid gloves, but it may be that this kind of aluminum alloy stem gets installed on carbon steerers too. Either way, this aluminum stem attached below is essentially the same thing made from the same metal as your stock stem, so I don't see a reason you couldn't switch one to the other.

Here's the bike:

Turbo Creo SL Comp E5

We have a long history of developing the world's highest performing road bikes. Tarmac, Venge, Roubaix, Allez, Diverge—each one dominates their respecti...

www.specialized.com

I will have to digest your post. I'm not entirely sure about the steerer but the fork is carbon. I have had the stem off when I changed/added spacers above/around the Future Shock. There is a CAP at the top which kind of covers the raw top. It screws in but then has a rubber grommet that friction captures it. I'm not sure if the stem suggested which completely covers the end would work although, I imagine if the top is protected by the stem's closed body, it would be okay.

While I'm not sure it is a big aesthetic issue, they seem to only have the SILVER versions.

And you are right "threadless removable etc" is entirely new and, at the moment, meaningless

Thanks.

 

[mschwett]

i would really not screw around (pun intended) with anything that clamps around the future shock in a different way than the stock stem. they make "standard" 31.8mm stems which are quite steep, and leave the top cap exposed as it's meant to be. check the clamping height of your current stem, mine looks to be 40mm with the future shock 2.0, so for example, something like this would allow a very wide range of adjustment:

Sepia Ahead/ 31,8 - Ergotec

www.ergotec.de

of course there are also fixed versions.

you currently have a 7 degree rise on a 90mm stem, adjust up to say a 30 degree rise on a 120mm version will raise your bars something like 40-50mm without moving them towards you much at all.

this is a great video showing the version of the future shock that you have, 1.5. note the aluminum sleeve which adapts up to the standard stem diameter...

 

[Stefan Mikes]

this is a great video showing the version of the future shock that you have, 1.5. note the aluminum sleeve which adapts up to the standard stem diameter...

Very interesting!

 

[kahn]

i would really not screw around (pun intended) with anything that clamps around the future shock in a different way than the stock stem. they make "standard" 31.8mm stems which are quite steep, and leave the top cap exposed as it's meant to be. check the clamping height of your current stem, mine looks to be 40mm with the future shock 2.0, so for example, something like this would allow a very wide range of adjustment:

Sepia Ahead/ 31,8 - Ergotec

www.ergotec.de

of course there are also fixed versions.

you currently have a 7 degree rise on a 90mm stem, adjust up to say a 30 degree rise on a 120mm version will raise your bars something like 40-50mm without moving them towards you much at all.

this is a great video showing the version of the future shock that you have, 1.5. note the aluminum sleeve which adapts up to the standard stem diameter...

Thanks for the links to the adjustable stem as well as the info. He's the guy I purchased the machined metal spacers from to replace the "plastic" ones included by Specialized. I've seen a number of his videos. They are very helpful.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Guys,

I had a chance to straddle that beauty on last Saturday:

Turbo Creo SL E5 Comp

Już ładnych parę lat zajmujemy się budową najbardziej zaawansowanych rowerów szosowych. Tarmac, Venge, Roubaix, Allez, Diverge - każdy z nich zdominował...

www.specialized.com

It is in size M, the aluminium version. Despite of my earlier fears (caused by wrong geometry listing at the Specialized website for the E5 version), it was very easy for me to straddle the Creo top tube (with ample space between my crotch and the top tube), and it was also very easy for me to dismount the e-bike (perhaps even easier than it is for my Vado SL size M). Regarding the weight, Creo E5 felt of similar weight as my Vado SL.

When I touched the hoods, I felt like a real roadie, and moreover 30 years younger!

Decidedly, a candidate for a demo ride for Saturday 20th of November! Questions:

1. It is a road bike configuration (tyres!) Would anything wrong happen if I took the e-bike for a gravel/off-road ride? Any chance for damaging anything such as tyres or wheels? Should I rather stay on-road?
2. What are the negative points that owners of Turbo Creo SL Comp E5 could report?
3. Could the e-bike be later upgraded to more gravel-like configuration? What would that take?

Discuss!

 

[kahn]

Guys,

I had a chance to straddle that beauty on last Saturday:
View attachment 106881

Turbo Creo SL E5 Comp

Już ładnych parę lat zajmujemy się budową najbardziej zaawansowanych rowerów szosowych. Tarmac, Venge, Roubaix, Allez, Diverge - każdy z nich zdominował...

www.specialized.com

It is in size M, the aluminium version. Despite of my earlier fears (caused by wrong geometry listing at the Specialized website for the E5 version), it was very easy for me to straddle the Creo top tube (with ample space between my crotch and the top tube), and it was also very easy for me to dismount the e-bike (perhaps even easier than it is for my Vado SL size M). Regarding the weight, Creo E5 felt of similar weight as my Vado SL.

When I touched the hoods, I felt like a real roadie, and moreover 30 years younger!

Decidedly, a candidate for a demo ride for Saturday 20th of November! Questions:

1. It is a road bike configuration (tyres!) Would anything wrong happen if I took the e-bike for a gravel/off-road ride? Any chance for damaging anything such as tyres or wheels? Should I rather stay on-road?
2. What are the negative points that owners of Turbo Creo SL Comp E5 could report?
3. Could the e-bike be later upgraded to more gravel-like configuration? What would that take?

Discuss!

On a DEMO ride, I would not take it on gravel unless you mean DEMOlition!!!! When I demo-ed the Creo (that I ultimately purchased), I mentioned where I would test ride it and they asked me not to go that route since it would probably spray the bike with dirt and grit even though it was a paved alley (but messy). Of course, this last week, riding on rather damp/wet roads after rain, my same bike was really messed up with all kinds of crap - leaf debris, grit, sand.

It is heavier than a carbon version! The shop had a gravel version and I think it is the same bike but outfitted differently - heavier tires (not tyres!) and a dropper seat post. Maybe fenders????

Ah, here's the link where I selected GRAVEL

Turbo Creo - Specialized

www.specialized.com

 

[Stefan Mikes]

On a DEMO ride, I would not take it on gravel unless you mean DEMOlition!!!!

Thank you so much kahn! No doubt you spared me from a serious trouble!

(not tyres!)

Speak English please

It is heavier than a carbon version!

I'm aware of it. I'm a humble person and know I couldn't afford the carbon version unless I suddenly sold a large contract at work Anyway, I'm not buying a Creo before the Winter ends.

Ah, here's the link where I selected GRAVEL

The Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO could be a candidate if I sold the aforementioned large contract

 

[kahn]

Thank you so much kahn! No doubt you spared me from a serious trouble!

Speak English please


I'm aware of it. I'm a humble person and know I couldn't afford the carbon version unless I suddenly sold a large contract at work Anyway, I'm not buying a Creo before the Winter ends.


The Turbo Creo SL Comp Carbon EVO could be a candidate if I sold the aforementioned large contract

I am not really sure of the affect/effect of spelling TIRES wrong.

I went with aluminum for two reasons. One was price but I probably could have afforded more. The second reason might have been wrong as I really still don't know "new" carbon frames and strength. I have a Carbon Trek Madone. It was strictly limited to how much weight could be placed on any rack - like about 10 pounds (weight, not English money ). I did not want that type of weight limit on this most recent purchase. I wanted a rack and panniers as I prefer less weight on my back with a backpack. Therefore, I opted for the aluminum frame.

Again, it is possible that these new Specialized carbons could have accommodated a rack and 25 or 30 pounds of panniers loaded with STUFF. I guess I never really asked or investigated.

Actually, the only reason not to try it on gravel would be messing or getting the bike dirty. But you could ask the shop. My shop was clear that they did not want it coming back in a messy state.

Hmm. Since the GRAVEL versions are CARBON, I wonder if the aluminum frames are not as durable and should not be ridden on Gravel. Although, frankly, some of the "paved" roads around here are washboard and potholed and rough on a bike (and rider).

 

[Art Deco]

Guys,

I had a chance to straddle that beauty on last Saturday:
View attachment 106881

Turbo Creo SL E5 Comp

Już ładnych parę lat zajmujemy się budową najbardziej zaawansowanych rowerów szosowych. Tarmac, Venge, Roubaix, Allez, Diverge - każdy z nich zdominował...

www.specialized.com

It is in size M, the aluminium version. Despite of my earlier fears (caused by wrong geometry listing at the Specialized website for the E5 version), it was very easy for me to straddle the Creo top tube (with ample space between my crotch and the top tube), and it was also very easy for me to dismount the e-bike (perhaps even easier than it is for my Vado SL size M). Regarding the weight, Creo E5 felt of similar weight as my Vado SL.

When I touched the hoods, I felt like a real roadie, and moreover 30 years younger!

Decidedly, a candidate for a demo ride for Saturday 20th of November! Questions:

1. It is a road bike configuration (tyres!) Would anything wrong happen if I took the e-bike for a gravel/off-road ride? Any chance for damaging anything such as tyres or wheels? Should I rather stay on-road?
2. What are the negative points that owners of Turbo Creo SL Comp E5 could report?
3. Could the e-bike be later upgraded to more gravel-like configuration? What would that take?

Discuss!

Stefan, you know what test rides lead to ...