Interesting.
If your throttle is a "standard" 3 wire hall sensor, the circuit I posted should emulate it exactly and you should be able to maintain a fairly constant output wattage.
I didn't get past the testing phase and I was using the +5V from the controller to power it.
It was during the testing phase when I was riding with a bafang thumb throttle locked with a piece of tape and watched my Watt meter and it was all over the place.
That's when I abandoned the project.
I do get some minor variations in wattage with slope changes on my controller but they never exceed 10%. The ground speed also varies with slope when using the circuit. This is normal with most DC motors.
It's not my motor, it's my controller trying to maintain a set speed and bouncing the power all over the place.
The "Imitation Torque Control" is still being used to limit the maximum power used to maintain a speed, and I REALLY like the control that I have over the maximum power, but I rarely need maximum power to maintain a set speed.
If the speed can't be reached with the set power output, then you slow down.
Check your resistors. The fixed resistors should have a 5% tolerance (gold band on the body) and the variable resistor must be good quality with no "noise" or flat spots.
I had the 5K varistors to adjust the ~0.8V and ~4.0V limits until I got a throttle fault on both, so I could set both limits to maximum to get full range out of my "throttle" (motor controller potentiometer), but I couldn't get maximum speed and I never did figure it out.
I measured all the voltages while operating both the bafang thumb throttle and my test throttle and they were the same, but I couldn't get full throttle out of my test throttle?
I just read this post of yours from your cruise control thread,..
"From a purely electrical perspective, there should be no reason why you couldn't use a 2 pole switch and common ground. However, when I tried it during my experiments, the throttle behavior became erratic. I can only guess but it appears there are eddy currents involved which affected the hall effect sensor. Isolating the ground return solved the problem. This may only happen with my particular bike/controller combination though, and a 2 pole switch may work fine on other bikes."
I may have had something like that going on?
It's that damn Eddy Currents guy.
He's an ass.
,.. Can you maintain a constant wattage by holding the throttle in a fixed position?
Only if I'm going up hill, into the wind or accelerating.
The digital wattmeter could also be misleading you. An analog meter would give you an average instead of the instantaneous digital readings.
The wattmeter on the KT display is giving an average.
It's got that AI logarithmic crap going on which muffles the peaks and REALLY muffles the valleys.
I rode up a steep hill at full power (about 700 Watts) and hit the brake to kill the power.
It took ten seconds for the watt meter to finally read zero.
I was looking into analog ammeters and the specs were saying <3 seconds and my Fuel Gauge is FAST! When I turn it on the needle jumps to full in about ¼ second.
As you know, a true cruise control will vary the wattage output to maintain a constant speed and compensate for head wind or slope change.
I guess that I've got a true cruise control except that the power is limited to my settings (and choice of throttle gear/speed).
I suppose that I can get a tiny KT controller that needs full power to maintain any speed, but it is nice how I can crank my power up to over 1300 Watts to play in the
.
My circuit will not do this.
I want your circuit.
I will need your controller and display.
Wanna trade ?
