My DIY builds: GMAC, BBSHD, 9C RH212, CYC Photon, ToSeven DM01

Cool fish, I've never ridden out by Grand Junction ... but if I ever get to ride on the Western slope again I think I've got a better tool.

I just completed my 2nd ebike build. I wanted something more efficient and comfy for longer distance road work, so I started with my almost 20 year old Surly CrossCheck 700c road/gravel bike and added essentially the same kit from Grin (SX motor, Baserunner, CA3) only in a rear hub config vs. my front hub Bridge Club build. I came very close to a pulling the trigger on a mid drive configuration (TSD or CYC lite), but in the end compatibility (spares) and a labour day sale at Grin helped me with the decision.

Now the original BC based ebike is really focused on commuting/grocery and rougher path setup for all weather conditions (bigger tires, fenders, rack, panniers, etc. all stay on the bike). The CrossCheck becomes my fair weather longer distance ride (as it always has been ... only now with some assist). It's lighter at 23lbs before adding the kit, so under 40lbs all up - the BC as an ebike is ~46 but actually over 55 as normally ridden with all extras. It's also more comfortable over long distances, has better higher speed gearing (30/42/52 with a 12-25 rear) and overall just a bit more efficient. My goal is to be able to do over 100k rides using ~600w and not feeling like I've gone 10 rounds.

I've not been doing longer distance riding (anything over 50k) for a few months because of a bad back so my conditioning is down from my early summer levels but I decided to take the upgraded CC out for a maiden cruise (after a few sub 20k neighbourhood shake down rides to make sure I properly tightened everything) and the results pleasantly surprised me. The ride was just over 60k on road with a bunch of small - medium hills. I watched the performance over 50k (first/last 5k was in town on slower speed paths with lots of distractions).

Avg speed over 50k - 27.5k/17mph (this is where my current lack of conditioning really showed). Despite my conditioning this is up about 10% from the BC over the same route under the same conditions. I think 30+kph avg speeds over 50-100k are easily within reach.
Total climbing - 700m/2300'
Watts - ~450 used over the total 60k (7.5wh/km or 12wh/m) ... it was right around 7wh/km for the fast 50k section. I'm shooting for 6wh/km when on the road ... either that or I also need to look into a 800-900w battery :D. In the mean time I'm leaning more on better conditioning and better aerodynamics (I'm considering going back to drop bars on the CC) which are easier on the budget compared to a new battery.

One difference compared to the BC that was apparent right away was hill climbing. I found it easier to a) attack the hills at a higher speed and b) maintain a higher avg speed while climbing. This really helped the SX hub motor stay in a more efficient range. In this case it was only over a series of smaller hills but I'm soon going to try out some 500-1000' climbs and see if I can keep the motor in that better range (and keep the temps down too).

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack your thread. I appreciate your numbers and experiences, and I'm always interested in the similarities.
 
Not many updates from me these days, just getting out and riding everyday on my 2 BBSHD equipped bikes and Bulls eTMB (fall in CO is just so awesome, especially on a warm year like 2021).

Quick Overview:
Troll-BBSHD - about 1400miles. BBSHD is making clunking noises once per chainring revolution (not related to pedaling, just motor). Not sure what the issue is but it doesnt seem to be getting worse and its not that bad. Sounds like excessive BB play on an acoustic bike. I do have a few backup BBSHDs. LOVE the EM3EV 52V 17.0ah battery. I did have a slight altercation with a car running a really late yellow light....basically as I passed in front of it at a crosswalk, the car started taking off, contacted my back tire but only managed to cause my back tire to skid a bit. I was really lucky that I wasnt hurt more...lesson learned(cars always win). Back wheel needed adjustments to get back in true after this encounter...simple 5 minute procedure.

BC-BBSHD - about 500 miles, no real issues...perfect combo

Eggrider display - Love the ability to change settings on the fly while out on an actual ride. I actually have two different PAS setups I use/setup depending on the local wind conditions. Definately not the best 'only display' but I use it in conjunction with a garmin edge 25 or Instinct Solar Tactical to get all the info I want during a ride. Datalogging to my phone is a nice feature.

Moving forwards:
I do miss the old GMAC/CA3/Phaserunner setup and will be setting it up again soon. There are just some scenarios where its the best solution. Most likely the Surly Troll will get the GMAC, waiting on a new rim to build a new rear wheel. Potentially going to a 72V setup just for kicks.

Most likely will have:
Troll/GMAC/Phaserunner/CA3 - 52V, maybe 72V
BC-BBSHD - 52V
Ogre-BBSHD - 52V
 
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Interesting on the clunk you're having on the Troll. Not something I have experienced... but I bet its going to get worse before it gets better. Might be worth a Saturday afternoon teardown. Easy for me to say I am dreading my own teardown tomorrow (replacing a fork and a derailleur/shifter/cluster)
 
Interesting on the clunk you're having on the Troll. Not something I have experienced... but I bet its going to get worse before it gets better. Might be worth a Saturday afternoon teardown. Easy for me to say I am dreading my own teardown tomorrow (replacing a fork and a derailleur/shifter/cluster)
It looks like a few of us will be busy tomorrow I'm preparing my commuter (Bridge Club with a hub motor) for winter. So changing it over to studded snow tires, re lubing everything, adding dielectric grease to and re taping all the electrical connections, etc. I might even take a peek into the hub motor, looking for wear and re located some of the existing lube. I don't have any appropriate (synthetic gear friendly) new stuff right now.
 
Yeah I am redoing my whole drivetrain so I can better tackle deep sand. While I am at it I am checking to ensure I have Tannus Armour under my tires. I'm riding in some pretty remote places - a shoreline with no way off the beach (cliffs) except turning back or reaching my destination, so I need some serious fault tolerance.
 
Its been awhile so I thought I would provide some updates.

m@Robertson (the clunk)
I agree that clunks never get better, but this clunk never got any worse..at least not significanty. I have a similar clunk on a Brose Bike that I suspect is BB bearings and it has been this way for a few years now. That being said, I took the BBSHD off and went back to a torque equipped GMAC setup on this bike.

BC-BBSHD
About 1500 miles, no real issues and no clunking. I use this setup for the dirtier rides(melted snow) as its weatherproofing seems better. Reliable and powerful.

Troll-GMAC
Went back to my 52V/GMAC/Phaserunner/Torque sensor setup. The bearings for this erider torque sensing BB were replaced with much better bearings(mentioned previously) and they have held up much better for about 1k miles now. I deal with alot of melted snow this time of year and the bike gets pretty wet and grungy. That being said, this particular BB seems to easily stop producing torque outputs when I ride over the slightest puddle. Not sure what the issue is as all the connectors are in weatherproof heatshrink. I just switch to PAS mode for a few minutes as things dry out and then switch back to torque sensing mode. I have bought a cadence only PAS sensor I might use eventually
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/torque-sensors/pas-12p-chr.html

I do really like the torque sensing of this setup. It just inspires me to push harder as there is a reward for doing so. With cadence based PAS pushing harder doesnt really offer much benefit.

Rebuilding GMAC wheel
When I originally got my GMAC motor/wheel (with a 26inch rim), it was laced with the spokes elbow out on the non drive side and elbows in on the drive side. When I rebuilt the wheel the first time with 27.5 inch rims I replicated this.

I rebuilt the wheel a second time and followed the following video.

and laced it elbows out on both sides (makes a stronger wheel theoretically)

The issue is that the derailler cage hits the spokes in the lowest gear. Not a biggie as the lowest gear on this bike is a 50t which I would never use anyhow so I just adjusted the derailler limit screws to not use the 50t. (Note that when had this setup on the BC, I limited the lowest two gears due to cross chaining since the front 42t chainring needed to be mounted on the outer part of the erider spider to clear the chainstays)

Potential new frame/fork
All my surly bikes (Troll, Ogre, BC) use quick release front axles. Surly now has a thru-axle front fork I might try that comes from their new grappler frame
https://surlybikes.com/parts/dinner_fork

I would like to actually try this frameset although the front chainring can only be 36t in 1x mountain which IMHO is useless for a class 3 capable ebike (IMHO)
 
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I do really like the torque sensing of this setup. It just inspires me to push harder as there is a reward for doing so. With cadence based PAS pushing harder doesnt really offer much benefit.

Could be part of the popularity of the big brand systems (apart from it being a big brand) - Bosch, Yamaha, etc.
 
Could be part of the popularity of the big brand systems (apart from it being a big brand) - Bosch, Yamaha, etc.
It's about different strokes, and different ways to get the same job done. Big thing with the "non big brands" is this cool thing called a throttle......

Point being, both types are far from perfect....or "best".
 
Unfortunately useless in parts of the EU & Australia due to laws.
I can only sympathize with the laws you are dealing with. As a senior, I find that throttle law in particular, would be something so stupid I'm afraid I would be spending a lot of time advocating for a change.....

It would be helpful as well, if folks would note where they are from. Would make it a little easier for others to see the world from their point of view....
 
Webcurl I tried looking at my information this AM and wasn't sure of step(s) to add that, can you share step by step? If so, thanks. Merle
 
Could be part of the popularity of the big brand systems (apart from it being a big brand) - Bosch, Yamaha, etc.
No doubt that is 'part' of the popularity. Lots of opinions on the 'other parts'....things like business models which have $1k+ battery pricing (like my Brose Motor Bulls eMTB)

I have always been a fan of torque sensing assist. I demod ebikes for years (throttle and cadence based) and it wasnt until I tried a Brose System that I got an ebike.

Nothing wrong with the big 4 if that meets your goals, for a pure eMTB that would always be my first choice(and currently is).

Up until I got a BBSHD mid drive, every bike I owned was torque sensing (2 brose motor ebikes, tsdz2 diy, Juiced CCX, GMAC with phase runner and torque sensing).

That being said, the big 4 start to fail when you want things like a throttle or more power. While Im not a big throttle fan, it has its place and suits many people.

I can get used to any system and enjoy it for what its worth. I enjoy riding all 5 of my ebikes
 
Webcurl I tried looking at my information this AM and wasn't sure of step(s) to add that, can you share step by step? If so, thanks. Merle
Merle, click on your name at top right, then go to signature and add your location there. That's how mine is set up anyway.
 
Merle, click on your name at top right, then go to signature and add your location there. That's how mine is set up anyway.
Thank you. I tried that again just now. Not enough info for me, sorry. The things I try clicking on don't seem to give the option of adding onto my name - "Bay Area, CA" or some such thing.
 
You guys.....:)

That's not enough info for a tech illiterate.

I see A HICKS sent me a private message. I'll bet he expounded on it some there. I'll follow those directions soon. Thanks guys.
 
Surly Troll-GMAC update:
Well it was going to happen eventually. I was in a rush to get in a quick last minute ride and thought my battery was fully charged. At about 10 miles out, the CA3 stopped with motor assist due to Low Voltage (didnt hit the battery LVC). So I turned off all power and rode it like a 50-60 lb bike with a draggy geared motor with no clutch back home. Frankly it wasnt as hard as I would have thought although I was the slowest guy on the path/trail. I did manage to keep it above 9mph despite some rolling hills and a headwind. Overall averaged 12mph for the 20 mile ride which is about the same as I do on a non-ebike (for the whole ride). I am pretty tired from the ride
 
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