Mechanical brakes vs Hydraulic brakes

Mechanical brakes work by compressing the housing ends toward each other. If a housing is mushy or the ends are mushy than the action will feel mushy. Cheep housing ends cost 1/10 of a penny each per bag. Good ones cost a few cents each. These black ones are good.
 

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This is one of the conundrums of these ebike sites. We're all over the board on the application of these brakes in this discussion, and it applies to discussions on many different components.
This is the main issue with quite a lot of folks on this site, they become myopic and believe that their way is the only way, their style of riding is the only style of riding and their environs are the only environs ebikes exist in, when the truth is 'ebike' covers a huge diaspora, nothing reveals this more on here than fat tyres, bafang and throttle.

Potatoes gna po tate.
 
this is what I really like about these levers. I can get them close to the grip but not hit my other fingers the nI ahve gloves on. I don't have to stretch to get my finger wrapped around them. plus they don't need a lot of movement so I can get them closer to to the grip. in winter with insulated gloves it really helps.
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I've found holding any grips with curled fingers over time exacerbates my carpal tunnel and that's why I prefer to straighten and rest 4 fingers on the break lever with the grip in my palm and thumb wrapped underneath for stability and shifting on the left.

Carpel tunnel explains why you prefer 3+ finger braking. Index finger braking would be dangerous if you can't feel your index finger!!! An excellent example of how we are all different.
 
As good as Avid BB7?
Im not familiar with Avid. I have whatever comes with the Frey CC and the Espin Sport. They are both hydraulic disc and both are quiet with plenty of stopping power for my style of riding. The Lectric XP came with mechanical disc and they were fine. My son ened up adding some hydraulic brakes later on and for the 30 or 40 extra bucks, seemed well worth it.
 
Carpel tunnel explains why you prefer 3+ finger braking. Index finger braking would be dangerous if you can't feel your index finger!!! An excellent example of how we are all different.
none does better with one finger as my hand is relaxed three fingers causes my hand too stretch. with gloves its worse. oncer I started getting more miles its become more critical. I am not upright and that changes things too.
 
An excellent example of how we are all different.
Thanks.
That was my point all along. I wasn't advocating that my way is the only way or the best way.. but that it works well for me and these are the reasons why.
Sometimes more is better, sometimes it's not... and sometimes it's just more.
This attitude that we all must have the perceived best of everything, and then shaming those who think differently is what's digging this planets grave.
 
Im not familiar with Avid. I have whatever comes with the Frey CC and the Espin Sport. They are both hydraulic disc and both are quiet with plenty of stopping power for my style of riding. The Lectric XP came with mechanical disc and they were fine. My son ened up adding some hydraulic brakes later on and for the 30 or 40 extra bucks, seemed well worth it.
Sorry I misread. I assumed since you rated mechanical discs, you had them. BB7 are widely regarded as excellent disc brakes.
 
To me the big difference between hydraulic and mechanical brakes isn't about absolute 'lock them up' stopping power. It is about comfort during normal stops. Arthritic hands are pretty common on this forum and among people of a certain age.
The great thing about mechanical discs is that they give you something to tinker with &
adjust on an almost daily basis.🔧🪛⛓️🪓
 
The great thing about mechanical discs is that they give you something to tinker with &
adjust on an almost daily basis.🔧🪛⛓️🪓
Are these ones more like candy or jewelry?
 

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my personal, main benefits for hydro (full or presumably only hydro calipers) is simply having both braking surfaces move equality against the disc plate, tends to result in more predictable and quieter braking operations. for me has nothing to do with stopping power, whatever that even is beyond a human impression.

....
This.
What rawlus describes also means when the calipers retract they both move away from the rotor, so they can be set up just a little further from the rotor which results in much less chuff-chuff-chuff-chuff. You often hear that with mechanical discs (the common Avid mechanical disc brakes for example) where the stationary pad has to be set up very close to the rotor since it can't move toward the rotor (stationary) but instead the one moving pad has to press the rotor against the stationary pad. Since that bends the rotor every time you brake (!) you want it to bend as little as possible. So you adjust them so the rotor is very close to the stationary pad which is fine except that the slightest bit of road grit or miniscule rotor wobble (expect some cause you're bending it often ;-) makes it go chuff-chuff-chuff-chuff. Hydro discs (full or hybrid) are much less likely to do this chuffing since neither pad has to be set as close to the rotor as with mechanical discs.

There is a mechanical/cable disc brake, TRP Spyre, that has dual moving pistons so technically wouldn't have this problem.

Having choices is good, and I have no need to use a mechanical/cable disc brake, but it should be said that many cable-disc brakes have worked fine for perhaps millions of bikes, fine enough anyway--stopped them fine while cheerfully chuffing away. I may not approve of that single-pivot rotor-bending design from an abstract engineering point of view, but it does work daily in the real world. Not well enough for my preferences but it works.
 
Isn’t a 26” rim a big disc?
Almost true.
True. Just sand the pads every once in a while and keep the rims clean using acetone. A rim is a gigantic disc. For huge descents let out some air or the tires will explode due to expansion. That is not so great if it is the front when going down a mountain. On the other hand boiling your hydraulic fluid is not so great either. Vapor lock sucks when you are going down a mountain.
 
True. Just sand the pads every once in a while and keep the rims clean using acetone. A rim is a gigantic disc. For huge descents let out some air or the tires will explode due to expansion. That is not so great if it is the front when going down a mountain. On the other hand boiling your hydraulic fluid is not so great either. Vapor lock sucks when you are going down a mountain.
No mountains and no more fast bikes. I’m Golden. Having tested my rim brakes on an MSF course I’m well within safe and sane breaking distances. Add 60 years of adjusting cables nearly weekly when riding high mileage makes the adjustment about as hard as brushing my teeth.
I’m happy to read class 3 bikes tend to have quality hydraulic brakes. Frankly my opinion of sub $2000 factory direct bikes with hydraulic brakes are mediocre in the long term. Lots here are weekend and holiday fair weather riders and as such avoid the early issues high mileage riders would probably experience.
 
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