Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
E-bike hydros use mineral oil... We are talking about Shimano, Magura, TRP, Tektro.Hydros that use DOT fluid DO absorb moisture.
E-bike hydros use mineral oil... We are talking about Shimano, Magura, TRP, Tektro.Hydros that use DOT fluid DO absorb moisture.
While they would 'technically' be safer, I have had no need for them on any of my DIY bikes (TSDZ2, Torque sensing GMAC, 2 BBSHD). The only scenario I see it being of use is a stuck throttle like I was agreeing with. I dont see lag being a requirement for brake cutoff,. Yes, my DIY ebikes have lag cutting power buts its not anything a light touch of brake (without cutoffs) cant arrest.Cadence sensor bikes with some lag and all throttle bikes, including torque sensor throttle bikes are safer with cutout levers. All front hub-motor bikes should have them. The Brose is a torque sensor bike. Very nice. Smooth. There is no power when not pedaling and no lag, so cutouts are not needed on this type of system.
Sram-Avid uses DOT 5.1. There can be performance advantages. I have Avid on a bike that uses 5.1 and mineral oil on another. I've been fine with both for years. No problems whatsoever with either. I've ridden in temperatures of 14°F to 104°F.... not on the same dayE-bike hydros use mineral oil... We are talking about Shimano, Magura, TRP, Tektro.
See previous post. In addition to SRAM and Avid brakes using DOT 5.1, you can add Hope. I'm sure there are more.E-bike hydros use mineral oil... We are talking about Shimano, Magura, TRP, Tektro.
There's nothing mysterious about DOT 3, 4 and 5.1, they are just synthetic hydraulic fluid. All high performance vehicles, automobiles and motorcycles equipped with ABS use glycol based brake fluid. My motorcycle, non ABS, uses DOT 5, which is paint safe silicone based fluid. As most vehicles use glycol fluid, it really isn't an issue.If only DOT weren’t as damaging to any paint surface…
I don't miss DOT fluid one bit. I know it has a higher boiling point, but mineral oil is just soooo much easier to deal with. Especially over a long term on wheels where a lot of red-hot bleeds are involved; the calipers, mounts and hoses start getting pretty nasty. Thats auto racing and not bikes, to be fair. But given an alternative with ebikes, I have embraced it and have seen no negative consequences.There's nothing mysterious about DOT 3, 4 and 5.1, they are just synthetic hydraulic fluid. All high performance vehicles, automobiles and motorcycles equipped with ABS use glycol based brake fluid. My motorcycle, non ABS, uses DOT 5, which is paint safe silicone based fluid. As most vehicles use glycol fluid, it really isn't an issue.
Interesting points on using the brakes like that on trails.I like having the brakes decoupling from motor power on all the DIY ebikes I have owned (TSDZ2, GMAC, BBSHD). I use just a touch of brakes(both front and back or both) all the time in all sorts of situations while the motor is still running. Maybe I just want to settle the bike a bit while still powered and dont want to go thru the whole motor off/back on scenario. It also helps tame some of the issues you can have using cadence based PAS in technical terrain.
I also dont run switches which cut the power when I shift.
I have considered adding a switch/button cutout for emergency use but in all likelyhood, I wouldnt instinctively use it so I question its value. If stuck throttle actually ever became an issue, I would just remove the throttle.
Good reason to program PAS 0 as just that... No PAS, neutral, nada, nothing but walk mode.I have had bikes whose PAS engaged at oddball times and found that cutoffs ensured no shenanigans. I keep the brakes engaged so no surprise motor engagement. Especially when creeping forward at a light beside traffic. If I don't guess just right about how little I should rotate the pedals I can kick the motor on when I don't want to. For me keeping PAS from firing off in such circumstances is most of the benefit of cutoffs. as my riding tends to be all on streets so intersections are a big part of what I have to navigate.
If you look back I distributed the first iteration to fellow endless_sphere posters in 2014 and tested before they were marketed and cloned by Chinese kit sellers I'd suggest that IGH builds might benefit. But IME learning how to use the brake cut out while changing gears works well. IMO a GS is just another gadget to go bad.I don't use a gear sensor
Long ago I tinkered with setting PAS 0 as a very VERY mild assist under the thinking that even on a crowded pedestrian path where I am only going 3-5 mph I still wouldn't mind a touch of juice. But I've long since stopped doing that and kept it at zero. Not for this reason though. For a time at least that was regarded as necessary so other bad things wouldn't happen. The places where I have had slightly wonky PAS are KT controllers with hub motors.Good reason to program PAS 0 as just that... No PAS, neutral, nada, nothing but walk mode.
Yeah I'm aware you were a pioneer on that one. I have one gear sensor on my second HD build and I never put another one on. I just learned how to do without one on my original and the technique is so second-nature to me, I do it no matter what and almost never suffer consequences. I don't use the brakes, though. I do the stutter-step. Stop. Click. Start. Maybe get the shift completed by the extremely short delay left in the HD's power cut. Especially with SRAM drivetrains that shift on something like a 1/5 cog turn.If you look back I distributed the first iteration to fellow endless_sphere posters in 2014 and tested before they were marketed and cloned by Chinese kit sellers I'd suggest that IGH builds might benefit. But IME learning how to use the brake cut out while changing gears works well. IMO a GS is just another gadget to go bad.
Good point and a great reason to use brake cutouts.I have had bikes whose PAS engaged at oddball times and found that cutoffs ensured no shenanigans. I keep the brakes engaged so no surprise motor engagement. Especially when creeping forward at a light beside traffic. If I don't guess just right about how little I should rotate the pedals I can kick the motor on when I don't want to. For me keeping PAS from firing off in such circumstances is most of the benefit of cutoffs. as my riding tends to be all on streets so intersections are a big part of what I have to navigate.
Different strokes. I would go rear (rh lever) as I tip the bike toward me to get on and off, and that lever will be in my hand. As mentioned, my hand WILL be on that brake at those times....Good point and a great reason to use brake cutouts.
I do ride streets although I try to limit it and havnt seen any such issues yet
I have had no such issues with my GMAC/CA3/Torque sensor and/or BBSHD (with mostly stock EM3EV and Luna settings, only keep current and speed limits changed). The GMAC setup was nice in that I had it setup to only assist once I had input a set amount of power (i.e. 10 w) so it never did this. THe BBSHD hasnt done it yet either.
If I did decide to go to cutouts, it would likely be on only the front
The thing is I typically use the rear more than the front to slightly make small speed adjustments/settle the bike so having a brake cutout there would annoy me all the time(and it did ) . I grab both brakes when mounting/dismounting or basically anytime Im straddling the bike but not pedaling, a habit I learned was essential on my CCX which sometimes did lurch with small pedal inputs(one time at an intersection, it wheelied out in front of me).Different strokes. I would go rear (rh lever) as I tip the bike toward me to get on and off, and that lever will be in my hand. As mentioned, my hand WILL be on that brake at those times....