Luna X2 - First Impressions
- Thread starter rtp
- Start date
Nebakanezzar
New Member
- Region
- USA
Lol.
Step 1, make sure the silver button is depressed. Do not depress and hold, just depress. Its a on/off switch, so make sure it is in the depressed state...depressed and non-depressed is very subtle.
Next, press, and hold for a few seconds, the bottom power button on the controller... don't press + or -
Step 1, make sure the silver button is depressed. Do not depress and hold, just depress. Its a on/off switch, so make sure it is in the depressed state...depressed and non-depressed is very subtle.
Next, press, and hold for a few seconds, the bottom power button on the controller... don't press + or -
Nebakanezzar
New Member
- Region
- USA
Ok, sounds like there is another issue then.
Did you connect the loose cable when you assembled it? When I received mine there was a loose cable that I THINK I had to plug into the controller, I don't recall exactly where it plugged.
If you did have a loose cable, and you did plug it in, make sure it is FULLY plugged in. These cables take a ton of force to be fully plugged in, this issue has come up a lot in the E10 DIY posts.
Did you connect the loose cable when you assembled it? When I received mine there was a loose cable that I THINK I had to plug into the controller, I don't recall exactly where it plugged.
If you did have a loose cable, and you did plug it in, make sure it is FULLY plugged in. These cables take a ton of force to be fully plugged in, this issue has come up a lot in the E10 DIY posts.
BigBird
New Member
YEA!!! I went back to the bike and unplugged and VERY firmly re-plugged each of the wires that go into the back of the display - then tried the power button and the DISPLAY CAME ON FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER!!!!!
Thank You GREATLY for saving me and thanks to all of you that have been helping. I will now go out and see if I can figure out how to make the bike GO!
THANKS AGAIN TO YOU AND ALL!!!
Thank You GREATLY for saving me and thanks to all of you that have been helping. I will now go out and see if I can figure out how to make the bike GO!
THANKS AGAIN TO YOU AND ALL!!!
Nebakanezzar
New Member
- Region
- USA
Awesome, now go out and have fun! 
FYI, The X2 is based on the E10 frame manufactured by Dengfu. If you google Dengfu E10, or CHEEB emtb, you will find a lot of DIY build posts... you can glean a lot of build and trouble shooting info from those posts that can be applied directly to your X2.
FYI, The X2 is based on the E10 frame manufactured by Dengfu. If you google Dengfu E10, or CHEEB emtb, you will find a lot of DIY build posts... you can glean a lot of build and trouble shooting info from those posts that can be applied directly to your X2.
IOUZIP
Active Member
- Region
- USA
I just got my X2. Holiday delayed the shipping but looks like no damage! I have had an X1 since last April so this is the replacement. On this new X2 Luna has installed a coil spring which I did not expect. Brakes are Hayes Dominion A4. The Galaxy paint is really nice. I already have most of the new parts ready to go on the bike. Fox 38 with 160mm and Fox Float X to start. Maxxis DHR and DHF came on the bike.
Attachments
IOUZIP
Active Member
- Region
- USA
I have been debating on changing the derailleur limit screw to stop at 2nd gear and prevent shifting to 1st gear. 1st gear is unusable for my riding. A few climbs I went to downshift and ended up in 1st which did not work for my trail riding. So today I adjusted the derailleur and I will try it out this weekend. Anyone else consider doing this?
You could always swap to an 11-42 cassette on wearout of this one?
I use first but rarely. Still debating on future drivetrain at this point though..
Did you shorten the chain any?
I’m still debating across waiting for Ultraglide 11s, Box 8 or 9, or …. ???
You could go up to 42T chainring and see if it makes the 50T a bit more useful as well ? (Will need to add a few links vs chain that came on it..)
IOUZIP
Active Member
- Region
- USA
Chain was shortened but no luck. Me and the LBS were unable to get it to stop slipping the chain on the 11-46 cassette. Went back to the stock cassette and chain. 38 tooth is about the max chainring I want to go which is what Luna installs stock. LINKGLIDE 11-Speed will be my next groupset. Whenever they become available in the US.
I did a 10 mile trail ride yesterday and all seems to be working. No issues with the lowest gear locked out on the 12 speed cassette. Now instead of 50 tooth gear the lowest is 42 tooth.
I did a 10 mile trail ride yesterday and all seems to be working. No issues with the lowest gear locked out on the 12 speed cassette. Now instead of 50 tooth gear the lowest is 42 tooth.
Changes and updates after ~3 months and a few hundred miles with the X2.
Would I buy it again?
Absolutely. There is still no bike for my purposes that ticks my boxes better, including the LudiV2 controller.
The Z1 with it's UART Ultra or Hydra w/Archon are the only other options I see at the moment. The Monte Capro is CANBUS and $$, and the Monte Lite is beautiful but Bafang programming. Maybe Luna or Innotrace will sell standalone controllers for M600 in the future, which would be great for existing owners and open up options.
Has anything broken?
Nope. I did have to do a controller swap early on, which may or may not have been needed - the Bluetooth range isn't as far as most of us would like, and the antenna position is kind of important if riding with the phone attached to the bars. It's possible a future firmware update may improve BT TX/transmit power. Odometer doesn't work with the LudiV2, but I know this is in process and likely part of the next firmware update.
What have you changed? Did you need to?
Most changes were from my personal preference, either to make the bike 'mine,' to make it fit better, etc. There really isn't anything I 'needed' to change - other than the atrocious stock seat. Good brand/model (WTB Volt) but way too narrow at 135mm.
I also like to tinker, but here's the list so far:
Would I buy it again?
Absolutely. There is still no bike for my purposes that ticks my boxes better, including the LudiV2 controller.
The Z1 with it's UART Ultra or Hydra w/Archon are the only other options I see at the moment. The Monte Capro is CANBUS and $$, and the Monte Lite is beautiful but Bafang programming. Maybe Luna or Innotrace will sell standalone controllers for M600 in the future, which would be great for existing owners and open up options.
Has anything broken?
Nope. I did have to do a controller swap early on, which may or may not have been needed - the Bluetooth range isn't as far as most of us would like, and the antenna position is kind of important if riding with the phone attached to the bars. It's possible a future firmware update may improve BT TX/transmit power. Odometer doesn't work with the LudiV2, but I know this is in process and likely part of the next firmware update.
What have you changed? Did you need to?
Most changes were from my personal preference, either to make the bike 'mine,' to make it fit better, etc. There really isn't anything I 'needed' to change - other than the atrocious stock seat. Good brand/model (WTB Volt) but way too narrow at 135mm.
I also like to tinker, but here's the list so far:
- Hope red floating rotors F/R, and will be moving to 200mm in rear shortly. Have a few different pad compounds to play with.
- SRAM 'deslackinators' to take up free-play in the SRAM G2 levers.
- Ergon SMC Core seat
- Front/Rear MuckyNuts fenders, mini - will be replacing with the longer versions soon - the minis work well to protect the chainstay/suspension pivot from crap, but still spray my back.
- Re-arranged controls and added a thumb-drive throttle @JRA found from someone in Poland. Much better than the OE one, although I had initially filed that one down to make it narrower/more usable with controls layout.
- Ergon GA3 grips - because they don't suck.
- Granite Stash tubeless repair kit in bar end
- Mirracycle bar end mirror on left
- Lamin-X and 3M clear film - battery cover and chainstay under chainstay protector mainly at this point
- 'Fire Lizard' chainstay protector
- Alston mtb pedals
- Miranda 16-mm crank arms, after also trying the Luna 150mm arms
- Replaced Alex MD35 wheelset with a set of ARC40/DT Swiss 350 hubs running Johnny Watt 27.5x2.8 - converted to tubeless. I like DT Swiss, and wanted a more 'dual-sport' on/off-road tire. Working well so far.
- Foam strips on top/inside of battery cover to remove any minor rattling
- Replaced KS 125mm dropper post with SDG Tells 170mm post. Nice dropper, and user-serviceable with parts. However, the RaceFace universal dropper lever is a huge POS with a single grub screw that lets the cable strip. Replacing the dropper lever/remote.
- Replaced the SX or NX shifter with a GX MMX shifter. Didn't 'need' to, but wanted to condense bar clamps etc. Works fine, not a huge difference in feel but more metal vs plastic, and a low $ part at ~$42.
- Added a Spurcycle compact bike bell - after jogger u-turned as I was passing on the left and did a stoppie that nearly became more.. yeah, need a bell.
- Added a front light which I like pretty well. Good mount, USB-C charging although a bit finicky on cables. Ironically they give a 'free' CR-2032 tail light that is actually awesome and wish was rechargeable - I just put it on slow pulse mode when I remember. Victogen off Amazon...just ignore the claimed Lumens.
- DVO Topaz Air T3 rear shock - was considering going coil, but wanted to see what a higher end air shock felt like first, so picked up used (210x55) along with a (non-offset) bushing kit and DU bushing tool from offsetbushings.com
- Only have 15-20 miles on it, but seems like a huge improvement over the RS Deluxe+ at this point, much more compliant at chatter/low-speed compression. Probably still needs some adjustment yet, but am liking it so far.
- Yari to Lyric Charger upgrade kit - damper and air spring.
- The Yari is decent overall. I do notice some fork flex, but all forks will have some flex to them. What I haven't yet been able to tune out entirely is low-speed chatter, much like the difference I noticed with the DVO Topaz rear vs the prior rear RS shock.
- Have not yet installed, but will bring the Yari up to Lyric Ultimate specs. Note on the air spring - this is a cheap ~$40 upgrade, and you can change your fork suspension travel distance by selecting a different length air spring. Stock is 160mm; I believe 140-180mm are available.
- Will see how things feel after this upgrade, and either stick with it or possible pick up a used DVO as backup plan.
IOUZIP
Active Member
- Region
- USA
Purchased and installed ShockWiz on the Fox 38 160mm travel ebike rated fork. Went for a 10 mile ride yesterday and was happy with my base setup and the Shockwiz suggestions are below. I selected basic "Playful" tuning style and was very close to my base setup. Since I went with Fox 38 fork and Fox Float X shock I will be moving onto the rear shock next for that tuning setup.
Fox 38 160mm travel eBike fork
Rider Weight 210lbs
Fork Air 120psi
1 token installed
LSR 6
HSR 4
LSC 10
HSC 8 (full open)
Tire Pressure 21psi-F and 23psi-R
Fox 38 160mm travel eBike fork
Rider Weight 210lbs
Fork Air 120psi
1 token installed
LSR 6
HSR 4
LSC 10
HSC 8 (full open)
Tire Pressure 21psi-F and 23psi-R
Last edited:
Built a new wheelset - DT350 Hybrid rear, DT 240S Hybrid front, ARC35s, Alpine III spokes. Chose the ARC35s mainly as they're asymmetric so I wind up at 84R/88% NDS tension vs DS (compared to ~60-something on non-asym wheels). WTB makes an interesting beefy asym 'emtb' wheel, but it's heavy (the HTZ i35 - https://www.wtb.com/collections/e-bi...oducts/htz-i35).
The Arcs have an interesting history, guess they came from Eaton, then bought by RaceFace. Original rims used a different compound so were on the soft side by some claims, but newer ARCs are using 6069 like most others. I went ahead and used some Sapim MG washers on this build, just for a little bit of added protection - they definitely made the wheel build take longer, but good to go. Amusingly, I did weigh the ARC40 wheelset I pulled off, but managed to forget to weigh the new one, will have to wait until next time they're off the bike. Tubeless, of course. There's also an ARC 'HD' which is a bit beefier, but only comes in i30. I can already notice the difference in sidewall shape between the ARC40 and ARC35 with the same 2.8" tires, so don't want to drop down to an i30 with 2.8" tires.
I picked the ARC35 primarily due to the rating difference - ARC40 is rated as Trail and All-Mountain, while the 35 is Trail/AM/Enduro, so went for that 'happy medium' in still wanting to build a near bulletproof wheelset (hopefully - if not, will move to the HTZ i35). Chose the DT Hybrids mostly for grins - they have 2.8mm hub-side spoke holes meant for wider elbow-end spokes, larger bearings, etc. - there doesn't seem to be all that much load difference vs DT 350/240 Classics, but there is some, so why not? It was kind of a bitch finding components, thus the 240 Hybrid front, but got it close in price to a 350 Hybrid front... had to order from overseas, but it ironically came in quicker than my US-ordered DT350 Hybrid rear.
A little bit of 'fun' in the spoke order had a handful of too long spokes, but I had ordered some spares, thankfully.
32 hole front and rear - considered 36H for the rear, but the combination of 36H hubs and rims I'd consider just isn't really stable/there consistently yet, let alone trying to order them. Should be fine, but we'll see.
The Arcs have an interesting history, guess they came from Eaton, then bought by RaceFace. Original rims used a different compound so were on the soft side by some claims, but newer ARCs are using 6069 like most others. I went ahead and used some Sapim MG washers on this build, just for a little bit of added protection - they definitely made the wheel build take longer, but good to go. Amusingly, I did weigh the ARC40 wheelset I pulled off, but managed to forget to weigh the new one, will have to wait until next time they're off the bike. Tubeless, of course. There's also an ARC 'HD' which is a bit beefier, but only comes in i30. I can already notice the difference in sidewall shape between the ARC40 and ARC35 with the same 2.8" tires, so don't want to drop down to an i30 with 2.8" tires.
I picked the ARC35 primarily due to the rating difference - ARC40 is rated as Trail and All-Mountain, while the 35 is Trail/AM/Enduro, so went for that 'happy medium' in still wanting to build a near bulletproof wheelset (hopefully - if not, will move to the HTZ i35). Chose the DT Hybrids mostly for grins - they have 2.8mm hub-side spoke holes meant for wider elbow-end spokes, larger bearings, etc. - there doesn't seem to be all that much load difference vs DT 350/240 Classics, but there is some, so why not? It was kind of a bitch finding components, thus the 240 Hybrid front, but got it close in price to a 350 Hybrid front... had to order from overseas, but it ironically came in quicker than my US-ordered DT350 Hybrid rear.
A little bit of 'fun' in the spoke order had a handful of too long spokes, but I had ordered some spares, thankfully.
32 hole front and rear - considered 36H for the rear, but the combination of 36H hubs and rims I'd consider just isn't really stable/there consistently yet, let alone trying to order them. Should be fine, but we'll see.
Similar threads
