Lectric XP

This scenario doesn’t add up after having tried a new battery. The limited range and premature wear of the brake pads is too much coincidence. Do the wheels spin freely if you get them off of the ground?

I just watched you video again and it came to mind that one of your new lights could have an internal ground. This could slowly deplete the battery but doesn’t explain the brake pads.
 
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Grey Beard said:
This scenario doesn’t add up after having tried a new battery. The limited range and premature wear of the brake pads is too much coincidence. Do the wheels spin freely if you get them off of the ground?

I just watched you video again and it came to mind that one of your new lights could have an internal ground. This could slowly deplete the battery but doesn’t explain the brake pads.
Click to expand...
The lights have their own battery USB charging.
 
martinctv said:
Upper west & upper east. I travel 4am then at 2-3 pm no traffic, like I said I do not use the breaks heavy, I drive it like a motorcycle or car, was never a heavy break user. I like to coast to a stop.
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I had my brakes off yesterday changing the freewheel and inspected them closely. Brakes looked fine, 280 miles, but I did notice a slight bend in the rotor. Have you checked the rotor for being true and centered the caliper? Saw on YouTube a caliper not centered will cause premature wear. It is a 30 second adjustment, I will do mine again today after having the wheel off.
 
brobox said:
I had my brakes off yesterday changing the freewheel and inspected them closely. Brakes looked fine, 280 miles, but I did notice a slight bend in the rotor. Have you checked the rotor for being true and centered the caliper? Saw on YouTube a caliper not centered will cause premature wear. It is a 30 second adjustment, I will do mine again today after having the wheel off.
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All is fine with the rotor. Everything seems to be true.
 
martinctv said:
All is fine with the rotor. Everything seems to be true.
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Have the calipers been centered? Mine were not upon delivery. What a difference centering the calipers made. Here is a 2.5 minute video that is perfect. I did everything on the bike using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean the brake pads with alcohol. Loosen 2 screws, squeeze the brake handle, tighten the screws back down, done.
 
brobox said:
I had my brakes off yesterday changing the freewheel and inspected them closely. Brakes looked fine, 280 miles, but I did notice a slight bend in the rotor. Have you checked the rotor for being true and centered the caliper? Saw on YouTube a caliper not centered will cause premature wear. It is a 30 second adjustment, I will do mine again today after having the wheel off.
Click to expand...

Which freewheel did you go with and how was the install?

My brakes were way off too from the factory. To get them centered on mine it took more than just applying the brake with the screws loosened. This video from Park tools gives more detail of what I had to do to get mine centered.

 
brobox said:
Have the calipers been centered? Mine were not upon delivery. What a difference centering the calipers made. Here is a 2.5 minute video that is perfect. I did everything on the bike using rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to clean the brake pads with alcohol. Loosen 2 screws, squeeze the brake handle, tighten the screws back down, done.
Click to expand...
Yeah ill take to the shop tomorrow to be sue. Thanks.
 
martinctv said:
Yeah ill take to the shop tomorrow to be sue. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Can you get the wheels off of the ground and give them a spin? You should be able to feel if there is drag from the brake and see any rotor side to side movement. Brakes really aren’t that hard to work on and it might save you some $$.
 
Grey Beard said:
Can you get the wheels off of the ground and give them a spin? You should be able to feel if there is drag from the brake and see any rotor side to side movement. Brakes really aren’t that hard to work on and it might save you some $$.
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I did give them a spin I did not hear anything like rubbing. I can't see to well so I would rather have someone take a look for me me. The shop just put new pads on the other day so it won't cost me anything if it needs further adjustments.
 
martinctv said:
I did give them a spin I did not hear anything like rubbing. I can't see to well so I would rather have someone take a look for me me. The shop just put new pads on the other day so it won't cost me anything if it needs further adjustments.
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Makes sense. Were the pads replaced on one wheel or both? Hopefully they adjusted it after installing the pads. Has your range improved since you had that done?

Good luck!
 
martinctv said:
Thanks! Yes, I did both wheels.
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Good chance the calipers were out of alignment when the bike was delivered causing the premature pad wear. Mine were terrible when delivered, squealed, hardly stopped, and pulsated on 2 XP's Had I not found the video on centering calipers, I am sure I would have gone through pads as fast as you did. One bike only had about a 1/4 of the pad making contact with the rotor on the rear wheel. That's the one that was hard to stop. I would have ground that pad down quick trying to stop with only 1/4 of the brake working.
 
brobox said:
Good chance the calipers were out of alignment when the bike was delivered causing the premature pad wear. Mine were terrible when delivered, squealed, hardly stopped, and pulsated on 2 XP's Had I not found the video on centering calipers, I am sure I would have gone through pads as fast as you did. One bike only had about a 1/4 of the pad making contact with the rotor on the rear wheel. That's the one that was hard to stop. I would have ground that pad down quick trying to stop with only 1/4 of the brake working.
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When I got the bike I took into my bike shop and had it tuned up breaks checked and adjusted the works. I took it back today to make sure that after he intalled the new pads he alligned everything. All is good, the rotor is nice and straight and the breaks are perfect. He told me it was most likely very cheap pad or even a defective pad(s) during production. He said it is not the first time that he has seen this, he said it even happen with expensive ebikes. I watched him check everything and all is good now. The battery is my only issue on my second one same 10 mile distance on a charge. I am going to contact Letric and ask if they can send me a test controler to troubleshoot, just to see if I might need a new one.
 
martinctv said:
When I got the bike I took into my bike shop and had it tuned up breaks checked and adjusted the works. I took it back today to make sure that after he intalled the new pads he alligned everything. All is good, the rotor is nice and straight and the breaks are perfect. He told me it was most likely very cheap pad or even a defective pad(s) during production. He said it is not the first time that he has seen this, he said it even happen with expensive ebikes. I watched him check everything and all is good now. The battery is my only issue on my second one same 10 mile distance on a charge. I am going to contact Letric and ask if they can send me a test controler to troubleshoot, just to see if I might need a new one.
Click to expand...

1. Is this 10 total miles throttle-only? Or are you pedaling too?

2. Do you see approximately ~54 volts from a fresh fully charged battery?

3. What's the ending voltage? (40-42v?)

4. When accelerating from a stop, do you see the amps fluctuating from a max of 20a to a min of 1a and everything in between? Would you say you're spending most of your riding time near the max vs the min?

5. Have you tested with increased tire air pressure? Under-inflated tires provide comfort but sacrifice efficiency and economy. Are you riding on windy days (going against headwinds)?
 
Mateo's Dad said:
1. Is this 10 total miles throttle-only? Or are you pedaling too?

2. Do you see approximately ~54 volts from a fresh fully charged battery?

3. What's the ending voltage? (40-42v?)

4. When accelerating from a stop, do you see the amps fluctuating from a max of 20a to a min of 1a and everything in between? Would you say you're spending most of your riding time near the max vs the min?

5. Have you tested with increased tire air pressure? Under-inflated tires provide comfort but sacrifice efficiency and economy. Are you riding on windy days (going against headwinds)?
Click to expand...
PAS 3 & 4 with some throttle, 54v fully charged, I never looked at amps, I keep tires at 20PSI.
 
Any suggestions on a phone holder that will fit on the limited flat spot on our curved XP bars? I did use the search function for this forum and did not find much. It looks like we have about 1.25" for the clamp but most the mounts I read about do not say how wide the clamps are. I have a older Samsung S3 which is 2.75"x 5.375" so one of the smaller mounts should work fine.

tnx
George
 
BallinLijeMike23 said:
I can only hit 20 mph on pas 5 and went to pg 8 to increase the speed. Is it because I weigh 250 lbs or am I missing something?
Click to expand...

Top speed with throttle-only is 20 MPH regardless of PAS 1-5.

Top speed with PAS 5 and pedaling like crazy in 7th gear on stock 11-28T freewheel is 28 MPH.

Rider weight, wind, tire pressure, battery charge level, etc. can all affect top speed.
 
GeorgeXP said:
Any suggestions on a phone holder that will fit on the limited flat spot on our curved XP bars? I did use the search function for this forum and did not find much. It looks like we have about 1.25" for the clamp but most the mounts I read about do not say how wide the clamps are. I have a older Samsung S3 which is 2.75"x 5.375" so one of the smaller mounts should work fine.

tnx
George
Click to expand...
 
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