Lectric XP

Ok thank you! Also quick note. My bike is 100% unlocked. Was able to set max speed to 100 kph. The t obviously won’t go that fast. With pedals spinning and legs aching I hit 27 mph. But all the settings are unlocked. Maybe need to get a 12 tooth gear.


Those of us with the "Locked " bikes are still able to increase the top speed, and a couple of other settings. We are unable to correct the horribly inaccurate odometer by correcting the circumference of the tire and some on here have posted the desire to increase the the minimum operating voltage setting. If your wife was able to get one earlier shipments, then perhaps it is unlocked.
 
I’m now the proud owner of a lectric Xp. Surprise 40th birthday gift from my wife. My wife gave very high praise for their customer support and being able to get it to us in order to surprise me.

Quick question: does the key have to stay in it to use it? I can’t seem to be able to get it to turn on unless the key is in it.
The key locks in order to use it. When the battery is on, you cannot remove the key.
 
Yeah, I have to take some measurements of the cargo area in my RAV4 to see which tote will work best, right now I can fit two folded XP’s without the totes but it’s awkward to tie them down so they don’t clang together. I thought this might keep them more stable at the base.
How about just cutting a piece out of the shipping box and placing it between the two bikes?
 
Ok thank you! Also quick note. My bike is 100% unlocked. Was able to set max speed to 100 kph. The t obviously won’t go that fast. With pedals spinning and legs aching I hit 27 mph. But all the settings are unlocked. Maybe need to get a 12 tooth gear.
Mike there is a new online manual, v1.1 that your wife should have had emailed to her along with a"First Ride" video. If not, it has been posted here as well as the FB XP user group. Lots in information there about speed settings, key position, basic battery care and a lots of other helpful hints. BTW, top speed will only be 28 mph, laws etc. The only way to get more than 28 is to find a hack that works.
 
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Anyone who has replaced the handlebar-- did you have any issues removing the throttle from the original handlebar? Every other component loosened nicely and slid off the bar. But for the throttle, I ran into a problem. I assume the small recessed hex bolt on the bottom is the way to loosen it and slide it off? I tried and the hex must be really cheap/soft and it stripped immediately and now my allen key just spins uselessly inside. Has anyone experienced anything similar?
 
Yeah, I have to take some measurements of the cargo area in my RAV4 to see which tote will work best, right now I can fit two folded XP’s without the totes but it’s awkward to tie them down so they don’t clang together. I thought this might keep them more stable at the base.
My current setup is Velcro straps around the tires when folded and the small $4. furniture pad from Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/40-inch-x-72-inch-movers-blanket-47262.html
 
I'm sure this has probably been brought up in the past, but has any body put road tires on their bikes, and if so, where did you get them? 20"x4" tires seem to be in very slim options.
 
Anyone who has replaced the handlebar-- did you have any issues removing the throttle from the original handlebar? Every other component loosened nicely and slid off the bar. But for the throttle, I ran into a problem. I assume the small recessed hex bolt on the bottom is the way to loosen it and slide it off? I tried and the hex must be really cheap/soft and it stripped immediately and now my allen key just spins uselessly inside. Has anyone experienced anything similar?
It sounds like you may have used Imperial rather than metric maybe? I was able to loosen and move it for adjusting and had no problem.
 
I've been playing with my bike for a couple of days off and on. Still only has 10 miles on it (raining lots lately)
I have an "early September" bike (actually delivered Oct 1) with limited options for changing computer settings.
I think I've settled on
P8 = 50
P11 = 1
P12 = 1

So far I've had no desire to change any of the settings that I can not change. Battery cutoff voltage is set (and locked) to 40v. That might be a little low if I actually thought I'd let the bike drain the battery very often. More likely I'll try to get home with a few bars remaining. In the rare case I might trigger low voltage shutoff, I think I'd like those last few amps more than I would value a few more battery cycles.

I set P11 and P12 both to 1 because I like the boost coming on as soon as possible, but I like that boost to come on gradually. If I want to accelerate faster I use throttle. I don't think I'll ever see 50km/hr (or even 45) except downhills, or if I change chain gear ratios. I think when I get my first flat tire in the rear, I will also switch out the freewheel for one with fewer teeth on small sprocket. So that will be an somewhat expensive flat tire. Who knows it may never happen :) And I reserve the right to change my mind ;)

My energy meter changes more than I would like when I have been drawing high current for some time. I assume the "energy meter" is just a volt meter (perhaps smoothed???). I'll have to display volts next time I go out to see if they seem to track each other. I expect battery voltage to drop when high currents are being drawn. But the energy meter only seems to drop (then recover) after 10's of seconds of high draw. To me this is not a good thing. To me it indicates the battery resistance goes up during heavy use (or wires are too small). I like the fact I can monitor battery voltage and current draw in real time. I have no idea if they are accurate, but it is nice to have them.

The geometry of this bike is different than what I used to ride. So it took a little time to get used to it. But so far I'm having fun with it. Which was one of my goals
 
I've been playing with my bike for a couple of days off and on. Still only has 10 miles on it (raining lots lately)
I have an "early September" bike (actually delivered Oct 1) with limited options for changing computer settings.
I think I've settled on
P8 = 50
P11 = 1
P12 = 1

So far I've had no desire to change any of the settings that I can not change. Battery cutoff voltage is set (and locked) to 40v. That might be a little low if I actually thought I'd let the bike drain the battery very often. More likely I'll try to get home with a few bars remaining. In the rare case I might trigger low voltage shutoff, I think I'd like those last few amps more than I would value a few more battery cycles.

I set P11 and P12 both to 1 because I like the boost coming on as soon as possible, but I like that boost to come on gradually. If I want to accelerate faster I use throttle. I don't think I'll ever see 50km/hr (or even 45) except downhills, or if I change chain gear ratios. I think when I get my first flat tire in the rear, I will also switch out the freewheel for one with fewer teeth on small sprocket. So that will be an somewhat expensive flat tire. Who knows it may never happen :) And I reserve the right to change my mind ;)

My energy meter changes more than I would like when I have been drawing high current for some time. I assume the "energy meter" is just a volt meter (perhaps smoothed???). I'll have to display volts next time I go out to see if they seem to track each other. I expect battery voltage to drop when high currents are being drawn. But the energy meter only seems to drop (then recover) after 10's of seconds of high draw. To me this is not a good thing. To me it indicates the battery resistance goes up during heavy use (or wires are too small). I like the fact I can monitor battery voltage and current draw in real time. I have no idea if they are accurate, but it is nice to have them.

The geometry of this bike is different than what I used to ride. So it took a little time to get used to it. But so far I'm having fun with it. Which was one of my goals
Hi... Good info and input! My mission so far was outfitting "Dennis" that's his name 😊.
The other even more importantly was getting rid of squeaks rattles clunks and bangs. One of the noises that drove me crazy was a cracking sound occasionally sounded like frame breaking, scary, OCD,hahaha. Anyway turned out when I tightenef everything I over tightened in my mind the rear fender. What I ended up doing was removing a couple of the fender screws. Boy really tough to do with the tire in the way, and putting in a couple of small nylon washers. Oh my God the cracking noise is gone! One pedal arm was a tiny bit loose and created that click noise. I completely removed it cleaned it up and put it back on, that noise is gone. The headset was loose so I disassembled it and regreased everthing then tightened it up appropriately. Another noise was when the handlebars were pushed down in their lowest position it created a clicking noise as well. After moveing it up any amount the noise goes away. Then of course the famous battery in frame clunk. I just used the plastic shim that was in the box protecting the bike to keep it snug. For some reason one of the pedals made a clicking sound as well when pedaling I added a little bit of oil to it and it went away. I now have a bike that makes absolutely no noise other than that wonderful sound of the tires which I truly love. I have 635 km on mine in a little over a month-and-a-half. That's the kilometres based on the inaccurate odometer which I'm not overly concerned about. Realistically it's probably more like about 750 km on it. Tire wear is zero so far. I've been riding trails and roads going out in the pitch-dark with super bright headlight on and the one on the bike that I have a 20 watt replacement for but am awaiting one of the electrical connectors so I'm not cutting any wires. That's enough for now. I will get to the settings at some point. The only thing I've changed is put it in kilometres per hour and changed it to class three.
 
I’m going to pick up Velcro straps today. What length did you get for two bikes?
The 2 pack at Walmart on the Velcro rack in the craft section $5.97 These are Velcro straps with buckles. I already had similar straps when they were in the camping section.
 
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Bike Trails:
Looking for bike trails in my area all I was finding were state and county parks, I went on my city's website and found bike trails ALL over the city. I road 8 miles of them yesterday and they are everywhere, some I didn't know even existed and I have been here 30 years. Worth checking your local City to see what they have. The majority of the connecting paths and trails I can access 3 block from my house. Nice printable map too. Many of the paths were new in 2019. Example attached.

www.capecoral.net
 
Hi... Good info and input! My mission so far was outfitting "Dennis" that's his name 😊.
The other even more importantly was getting rid of squeaks rattles clunks and bangs. One of the noises that drove me crazy was a cracking sound occasionally sounded like frame breaking, scary, OCD,hahaha. Anyway turned out when I tightenef everything I over tightened in my mind the rear fender. What I ended up doing was removing a couple of the fender screws. Boy really tough to do with the tire in the way, and putting in a couple of small nylon washers. Oh my God the cracking noise is gone! One pedal arm was a tiny bit loose and created that click noise. I completely removed it cleaned it up and put it back on, that noise is gone. The headset was loose so I disassembled it and regreased everthing then tightened it up appropriately. Another noise was when the handlebars were pushed down in their lowest position it created a clicking noise as well. After moveing it up any amount the noise goes away. Then of course the famous battery in frame clunk. I just used the plastic shim that was in the box protecting the bike to keep it snug. For some reason one of the pedals made a clicking sound as well when pedaling I added a little bit of oil to it and it went away. I now have a bike that makes absolutely no noise other than that wonderful sound of the tires which I truly love. I have 635 km on mine in a little over a month-and-a-half. That's the kilometres based on the inaccurate odometer which I'm not overly concerned about. Realistically it's probably more like about 750 km on it. Tire wear is zero so far. I've been riding trails and roads going out in the pitch-dark with super bright headlight on and the one on the bike that I have a 20 watt replacement for but am awaiting one of the electrical connectors so I'm not cutting any wires. That's enough for now. I will get to the settings at some point. The only thing I've changed is put it in kilometres per hour and changed it to class three.
My order, #36xx makes no noises. Neither does my other order. I think they have been really watching the packing.
 
My order, #36xx makes no noises. Neither does my other order. I think they have been really watching the packing.
My two bikes #49xx came in perfect! No scratches or dents. Everything was tight and no noises! I was a little apprehensive with all the comments about pedals coming loose and falling off etc.
 
My latest mod...I added a front basket.
XP looks the ultimate utilitarian bike.
 

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Ok, are my posts coming across as angry? If they are, I apologize, I am not angry in the slightest. Just trying to point out that isnt something we should have to do have basic functions of our bikes.
Angry? No. I kind of find the back and forth banter annoying though.
 
Hi... Good info and input! My mission so far was outfitting "Dennis" that's his name 😊.
The other even more importantly was getting rid of squeaks rattles clunks and bangs. One of the noises that drove me crazy was a cracking sound occasionally sounded like frame breaking, scary, OCD,hahaha. Anyway turned out when I tightenef everything I over tightened in my mind the rear fender. What I ended up doing was removing a couple of the fender screws. Boy really tough to do with the tire in the way, and putting in a couple of small nylon washers. Oh my God the cracking noise is gone! One pedal arm was a tiny bit loose and created that click noise. I completely removed it cleaned it up and put it back on, that noise is gone. The headset was loose so I disassembled it and regreased everthing then tightened it up appropriately. Another noise was when the handlebars were pushed down in their lowest position it created a clicking noise as well. After moveing it up any amount the noise goes away. Then of course the famous battery in frame clunk. I just used the plastic shim that was in the box protecting the bike to keep it snug. For some reason one of the pedals made a clicking sound as well when pedaling I added a little bit of oil to it and it went away. I now have a bike that makes absolutely no noise other than that wonderful sound of the tires which I truly love. I have 635 km on mine in a little over a month-and-a-half. That's the kilometres based on the inaccurate odometer which I'm not overly concerned about. Realistically it's probably more like about 750 km on it. Tire wear is zero so far. I've been riding trails and roads going out in the pitch-dark with super bright headlight on and the one on the bike that I have a 20 watt replacement for but am awaiting one of the electrical connectors so I'm not cutting any wires. That's enough for now. I will get to the settings at some point. The only thing I've changed is put it in kilometres per hour and changed it to class three.
Thanks to your other posts, the very few noises I had I knew just what to do. The nylon washer in the front fender, I didn't even need to scratch my head on that rattle. Wish you had posted about the noisy brakes. 😂 Those were Youtube University. And another thanks for the Accessories on AliExpress, having a ball getting the mail everyday, it like Christmas. Still lots of stocking stuffers coming.
I have hearing aids coming in a month, I may not have a quite of a bike as I thought I did. 😂
 
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