I was curious about the proper settings for the KD 218 display on the 700, second generation. In the YouTube video you say to leave the speed sensor at 12 But you exit out of that menu leaving it at 1 and you leave the assistant num at 12. I downloaded the manual and it seemed to imply that both should be set in a relation to the cadence sensor which I know has 12 magnets. I left the speed sensor at 1 and assistant num at 12 because I think that's how they were when I first went into the menu.
Known Issues & Problems with Ride1Up Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter troehrkasse
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tlippy
Active Member
rch...have you checked the spoke tension? I'm getting kinda anal about spokes.. Bought a tensioner and will attempt to get my spokes perfect.
I know you didn't ask me but I bought one and checked mine so maybe my info will help a little who knows. I was getting a lot of unhealthy noises from the rear spokes when I applied a lot of torque suddenly. I bought a tensioner and set them all within specs and the wheels were out of true so I attached a few zip ties to the frame on either side of the wheel then cut them at a 45 and use them as a guide as I rotated the wheel. I did the old loosen one side and tighten the other to move it over. I still got a few bad sounds and figured I probably loosened one side up more than I tightened the other so went around and just grab them by hand and snugged them up and since then it's been pretty good
tlippy
Active Member
Did you use the Park app? That's what I've been messing with. Pretty darn ingenious. How'd you figure the correct tension? U use R1U specs?
EmotionLynx6Pro
Member
I have a 700 and have found that the indicated speed most closely matches my phone gps (straight line speed) when set to 26", not 27.5 or 700c. It is usually off by no more than 2/10ths of a mph at any speed set at 26" wheel.
tlippy
Active Member
Wonder why CRUISE got deleted? Seems like an interesting mode. Just can't figure how it works. When you get to a hill, does CRUISE droup out?
Ride_r
New Member
Not sure exactly how it works on a R1Up bike, but on most it just keeps the motor going at the current speed without you holding the throttle or pedaling. It should keep going until you either brake or turn cruise off. It's very handy for long stretches of road/trail without stops. I would rather have a cruise mode than the walk mode- at least until I have a flat on the trail.
Has anyone here had Core 5 power issues?
@krdugger I have recently been having power surges while riding. It feels like all in the sudden it goes from pas3 to 5 and then back again sporadically. Also every once in a while when I stop the motor wants to keep going like it is in walk mode and I have lost power twice after a stop.
I have never adjusted any settings on the controller and have not had any error codes or crashes. I did have to take the rear wheel off to install fenders two days before this started happening.
I have checked the cable going to the motor and nothing looks crimped or damaged,
Thanks in advance! It has been a fun 650 mile so far!
@krdugger I have recently been having power surges while riding. It feels like all in the sudden it goes from pas3 to 5 and then back again sporadically. Also every once in a while when I stop the motor wants to keep going like it is in walk mode and I have lost power twice after a stop.
I have never adjusted any settings on the controller and have not had any error codes or crashes. I did have to take the rear wheel off to install fenders two days before this started happening.
I have checked the cable going to the motor and nothing looks crimped or damaged,
Thanks in advance! It has been a fun 650 mile so far!
I have walk mode on my 700 and I also would prefer cruise.
Try the FB Ride1up group if you don't get an answer here. Power surges sounds like a problem with the first gen LMT'D with the original controller, which is torque sensor based PAS. I hadn't heard of this issue being reported on the cadence sensor bikes.
I think it is a controller issue.
The ride to work today was fine with n o issues, the ride home however was a different story. When I turned the bike on it wanted to take off on me so i quickly applied the brake and turned it off and then on again and no power and then again and I had power. During the ride I had a surge and the speedometer was stuck on 25mph and I was in Pas3 and I purposely stopped pedaling and was defiantly not going anywhere near that fast.
After making a turn and going downhill I started pedaling and I got up to 30mph and the speedometer was stuck on 30. I had to turn the bike of and on 4 times to get it back to normal again. I have contacted Ride1up about the issue.
I tighten or check my rear spokes pretty regularly
I check and tighten my rear spokes pretty regular as when I hit the throttle I occasionally get a clicking type sound. I've gone over them with a tension meter then trued the wheel using the zip tie method. Usually if I get the sound I'll pull over and grab each spoke and give them a wiggle, if it feels loose I tighten it 1/4 to 1/2 a turn then check again. I get that sound a lot less than I used to
Fast n' Furious
Well-Known Member
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"mine"? Mine what? Mine Ltd; Mine Core 500. A "batch in early spring" of what? Carrots?
BTW, did R1U actually use 28" wheels - or you just can't find the 27.5 setting (missing in some display's software)?
Oh, I know. There's some misprints in some of their literature where the tires are called 28". If it's a 700, listen to the Wino guy.
BTW, did R1U actually use 28" wheels - or you just can't find the 27.5 setting (missing in some display's software)?
Oh, I know. There's some misprints in some of their literature where the tires are called 28". If it's a 700, listen to the Wino guy.
Fast n' Furious
Well-Known Member
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- San Diego
Jimmy666.
Dead on. 20amp controller. Limiting factor (500 has a 15amp, I believe lol). Change to (I can't say the name, lest panties get a'twist) dem Canadian guys 25, 30, 40 or (if you want to burn rubber) their phaserunner, 60amp max controllers and MY GOD !!! Everything changes.
This assumes you have a motor that can take that heat and not melt, 30amps is perfect.
that company's website has fabulous motor analyzer software that accommodates various combinations of equipment and the results.
I trust them, ebay not so much.
Dead on. 20amp controller. Limiting factor (500 has a 15amp, I believe lol). Change to (I can't say the name, lest panties get a'twist) dem Canadian guys 25, 30, 40 or (if you want to burn rubber) their phaserunner, 60amp max controllers and MY GOD !!! Everything changes.
This assumes you have a motor that can take that heat and not melt, 30amps is perfect.
that company's website has fabulous motor analyzer software that accommodates various combinations of equipment and the results.
I trust them, ebay not so much.
jimrbob69
New Member
This post is to correct bikes that will not glide well because of dragging rear brakes.
Our household owns 2 Lmt'd bikes I bought in November 2020, XR and ST. BOTH bike had dragging rear brakes...the rear wheels would only spin 2 complete revolutions on each when bike was tilted on kickstand and rear wheel was free of the ground and I the spun tire with my hand as hard as I could.
I originally thought it was because of the electric motor drag.
The brake disk was rubbing on the left pad and loosening the 2 allen bolts and repositioning the caliper wouldnt work because there was no room to center the pads between the brake disc. It always would rub the left pad. I had to find a way of centering the disk between the pads.
I had some THIN fenders washers (HALF THICKNESS OF REGULAR WASHERS) from home depot so I drilled open the hole and ground down the outside of the washer (not really necessary but looks a bit better).
First, loosen the 2 allen bolts that position the caliper and position the derailleur in the smallest gear sprocket.
Then I completely removed the axle nut and washer on the brake side and loosened the nut on the other, and put a crescent wrench on the axle to straighten it in the channel and dropped the wheel down 1 inch (otherwise it will not drop down because the axle is torqued and stuck in the axle channel).
I then removed the torque washer with the tab from the axle and then slipped on my thin washer followed by the torque washer. Now just reinstall rear wheel into frame (use crescent wrench to align axle flats to fit). Make sure the axle fits all the way into opening. Replace washer and nut. Tighten axle nuts. The brake disk is now more inboard of the caliper because of the washer and won't rub.
Squeeze the rear brake handle and tighten the bolts. Verify that the brake disk is now centered between the pads, if not reposition.
Now when I spin the rear tire with my hand as fast as I can, the rear wheel rotates around 20 revolutions instead of 2(count revolutions of wheel reflector).
I say it is fixed. It now glides like my non- electric bikes did. I originally thought the rear wheel only rotated 2 times because of the motor drag, WRONG.
I wonder, did anyone else have rear dragging brakes they could not adjust out?
.
I wonder, did anyone else have rear dragging brakes they could not adjust out?
Our household owns 2 Lmt'd bikes I bought in November 2020, XR and ST. BOTH bike had dragging rear brakes...the rear wheels would only spin 2 complete revolutions on each when bike was tilted on kickstand and rear wheel was free of the ground and I the spun tire with my hand as hard as I could.
I originally thought it was because of the electric motor drag.
The brake disk was rubbing on the left pad and loosening the 2 allen bolts and repositioning the caliper wouldnt work because there was no room to center the pads between the brake disc. It always would rub the left pad. I had to find a way of centering the disk between the pads.
I had some THIN fenders washers (HALF THICKNESS OF REGULAR WASHERS) from home depot so I drilled open the hole and ground down the outside of the washer (not really necessary but looks a bit better).
First, loosen the 2 allen bolts that position the caliper and position the derailleur in the smallest gear sprocket.
Then I completely removed the axle nut and washer on the brake side and loosened the nut on the other, and put a crescent wrench on the axle to straighten it in the channel and dropped the wheel down 1 inch (otherwise it will not drop down because the axle is torqued and stuck in the axle channel).
I then removed the torque washer with the tab from the axle and then slipped on my thin washer followed by the torque washer. Now just reinstall rear wheel into frame (use crescent wrench to align axle flats to fit). Make sure the axle fits all the way into opening. Replace washer and nut. Tighten axle nuts. The brake disk is now more inboard of the caliper because of the washer and won't rub.
Squeeze the rear brake handle and tighten the bolts. Verify that the brake disk is now centered between the pads, if not reposition.
Now when I spin the rear tire with my hand as fast as I can, the rear wheel rotates around 20 revolutions instead of 2(count revolutions of wheel reflector).
I say it is fixed. It now glides like my non- electric bikes did. I originally thought the rear wheel only rotated 2 times because of the motor drag, WRONG.
I wonder, did anyone else have rear dragging brakes they could not adjust out?
.
I wonder, did anyone else have rear dragging brakes they could not adjust out?
Last edited:
No it doesn't
No prob
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