Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Hi thanks for both your replies,

I beleive both of you are right. I took a second look and I could not see any notches inside the gears assembly so I went in with a small screwdriver and voilà I can definetly feel the notches inside. I then took my very powerful bike light and I can see what I am feeling with the screewdriver and they are definetely notches. They are pretty deep so I think I will need the FR1.3 tool.

Thanks again for your tips. Much appreciated.
 
-sandro- said:
Hello,
I washed the NCM Moscow with the pressure washer and since then (or I think it was since then) 90% of times I go over a bump/hole or I switch the front gear the motor power is switched off immediately (imagine that when you're on trail uphill) for 2 seconds even if I don't stop pedalling. The display and battery do not turn off, just the assist.
I'm pretty sure it has to do with the PAS sensor. Do you know where it is and if it's possible I moved it or damaged it with the pressure washer?
Click to expand...
Regarding this issue with the PAS sensor I removed the crank lever, removed the PAS sensor, cleaned it since it was rusty and put it back tightly (before the outer fixed ring was a bit loose) and the issue is still there and still happening during gear shifts and bumps. I'm starting to wonder if it could related to the play the bottom bracket has, could this affect the sensor detection? it basically changes the distance of the inner moving ring related to the outer ring. That distance definitely changes during bumps.
Here you can see it on video. Can the bottom bracket be tighten or needs to replaced?

VID_20230422_173256.mp4

drive.google.com drive.google.com
 
JakeV said:
,.. They are pretty deep so I think I will need the FR1.3 tool.
Click to expand...

The picture in the Park Tools video showed the FR-1.3 tool being used for a freewheel that looked like yours, with the hex nut inside the freewheel.

Hopefully the freewheel will thread on to your new wheel?
I'm just guessing that the freewheel will have the same thread diameter, number of threads, thread pitch, and so on.

I would think that the threading would be standard and not be changed over the years?


Check to see if the splines inside the freewheel spin along with the freewheel as the freewheel spins.

If they do spin with the freewheel, you'll need a chain whip to hold the freewheel while you turn the FR-1.3 tool.

A cheapie for that tool should be fine.
This is the chain whip and freewheel tool I've got. Note the black paint that I scraped off the the tool. 😂
I just noticed that the chain whip has the notch in it to operate as an HCW-17 tool.

20230423_101203.jpg

I got a whole kit for $20 CAD. (I already have a chain breaker, so I didn't need a kit with one.)
It's all junk but I think everything will work without breaking, except the freewheel remover?

Screenshot_20230423-101457_AliExpress.jpg

JakeV said:
Thanks again for your tips. Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Your welcome.
I learned about this stuff from @Fred

I remember taking a freewheel apart when I was a kid.
I just MacGyver'ed it off with a hammer and a flat head screwdriver.


EDIT: Hopefully the hole in the end of the FR-1.3 tool is big enough to fit the motor cable connector through it to feed it on to your axle?
My Das-Kit motor has the motor cable coming out the other side, so it wouldn't be in the way of the tool.

I remember reading where someone tried to replace a freewheel with a cheap tool and it broke, so he has to get the Park Tool version.
The problem with a broken tool is that the splined part can break off inside the freewheel and get jammed in there because of the soft metal deforming. Then you have to try to get the damn thing out somehow with almost no clearance to get in there.
I don't think that there even is a cheap version of the FR-1.3 tool though. The version that I have is kind of the standard and knockoff versions are readily available.

Installing your freewheel on the new wheel is easy (assuming that it fits.)
You just thread it on by hand and snug it up. Riding the bike tightens it up as you pedal (sometimes REALLY Tight, that's why they can be seized on to the hub.)
 
Last edited:
-sandro- said:
Regarding this issue with the PAS sensor I removed the crank lever, removed the PAS sensor, cleaned it since it was rusty and put it back tightly (before the outer fixed ring was a bit loose) and the issue is still there and still happening during gear shifts and bumps. I'm starting to wonder if it could related to the play the bottom bracket has, could this affect the sensor detection? it basically changes the distance of the inner moving ring related to the outer ring. That distance definitely changes during bumps.
Here you can see it on video. Can the bottom bracket be tighten or needs to replaced?

VID_20230422_173256.mp4

drive.google.com drive.google.com
Click to expand...
Hi Sandro,

A loose crank is definitely an issue that needs to be fixed. I am not familiar with the pas sensor but it most likely magnetic and it makes sense that it would be affected by a loose crank. Tolerance is probably in millimeters. I've not read all your post but to isolate the problem, did you try running on the throttle only for a while? with bumps and every thing. If the problem does not happen on the throttle only the you probably found your issue.
 
JakeV said:
Hi Sandro,

A loose crank is definitely an issue that needs to be fixed. I am not familiar with the pas sensor but it most likely magnetic and it makes sense that it would be affected by a loose crank. Tolerance is probably in millimeters. I've not read all your post but to isolate the problem, did you try running on the throttle only for a while? with bumps and every thing. If the problem does not happen on the throttle only the you probably found your issue.
Click to expand...
Hi, I don't have a throttle on my Moscow (Europe here). But yeah, I ordered a new bottom bracket to replace and see if that fixes the issue.
 
I'm looking to replace the entire drivetrain. I'm confused about the front crankset. Currently I have the Shimano fc-m311 which has 3 fixed chainrings that are very worn-out.
To replace this, is it mandatory to buy the exact same model or can I buy something else that maybe allows to replace the individual chainrings and that maybe it's less heavy?
What specs should I look for?
I just know that it's square tapered design and that the bottom bracket is 123mm.
 
-sandro- said:
I'm looking to replace the entire drivetrain. I'm confused about the front crankset. Currently I have the Shimano fc-m311 which has 3 fixed chainrings that are very worn-out.
To replace this, is it mandatory to buy the exact same model or can I buy something else that maybe allows to replace the individual chainrings and that maybe it's less heavy?
What specs should I look for?
I just know that it's square tapered design and that the bottom bracket is 123mm.
Click to expand...
You probably can change model but I would start looking onto Shimano's site to see if there are equivalents to your own model. Possibly a higher quality product/model. You can write them and ask.
 
Hi! My apologies if this is addressed elsewhere. I searched (briefly) and didn't see my issue. My power-assist kicks in and out constantly. One time in and out for each pedal revolution. If I stand up and pedal hard, sometimes it kicks in and works for a little bit. Throttle works fine. Ideas? Thank you kindly!
 
joeibt said:
Hi! My apologies if this is addressed elsewhere. I searched (briefly) and didn't see my issue. My power-assist kicks in and out constantly. One time in and out for each pedal revolution. If I stand up and pedal hard, sometimes it kicks in and works for a little bit. Throttle works fine. Ideas? Thank you kindly!
Click to expand...
It's probably the PAS sensor on the left crank, how you checked if it moved?
 
Last edited:
The fact that you say that it works "in sync" with the pedal revolution and that pressing the pedal makes it work better it proves 100% it's related to the PAS sensor.
I suggest removing the crank lever and check if the PAS is not moving or maybe dirty. The issue is there :)
 
-sandro- said:
The fact that you say that it works "in sync" with the pedal revolution and that pressing the pedal makes it work better it proves 100% it's related to the PAS sensor.
I suggest removing the crank lever and check if the PAS is not moving or maybe dirty. The issue is there :)
Click to expand...
Thank you!!
 
Hi all,
Anyone ever went through the process of greasing the front fork/suspension on the Milano?
I have a Suntour 28 but there are no greasing hole.

I found this video but it lokks like an overkill to grease the fork.
 
Last edited:
-sandro- said:
maybe you could try asking directly to the German support, it's where they're based in EU, I'm pretty sure they're gonna ship it
Click to expand...
The european assistance is completely down. Does anyone know the characteristics of this PAS sensor (1 or 2 hall sensors, numbers of magnets) ?
 
lucF said:
The european assistance is completely down. Does anyone know the characteristics of this PAS sensor (1 or 2 hall sensors, numbers of magnets) ?
Click to expand...
were you able to find it? I tried to replace the faulty bottom bracket that I was sure it was the cause since it was moving but it didn't help, it's still working randomly with the same issue. Is it diffucult to replace the sensor?
 
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