Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[cwh060]

Wow that is unfortunate, I ordered mine directly from Leon Cycle (Moscow Plus 29) in Richmond. It was shipped immediately and I put it together in a hour or so. I am in Ontario (Southern) also.

I am a complete novice when it comes to bikes and biking, but I'm quite mechanical and electronically inclined. The only issue I've had so far is the front fork would not move, no matter what I tried. Turned out the two hex bolts on the locking side, were not set correctly. Watched an online video and corrected the problem.

To me and it's only a guess, I would take a look at where the battery connects to the socket on the bike make sure the terminals on both connections are clean and not loose. Then start tracing the voltage to the controller and out of the controller. Does the bike simply shut down or does the power remain on and the electronics start acting strange. The dealer should be able to measure the controller output current and voltage to the motor. They should also be able to test the battery under load conditions, by connecting a wheel (any powered wheel should work). I'd hoist the bike up, turn it on, and then start moving components around (like the battery) and seeing if a loose connection is causing the issue. Either a mechanical battery connection or a soldered internal connection could have come loose in shipping.

Good luck.

 

[john peck]

Bummer! This is the 2nd case of a failed controller I´ve seen here,(if that´s what it is?) My 29er has the same battery mount system
as my now parts bike CCS. When I got it, I didn´t understand how to load the battery and tried mashing it down in the wrong way.
Only luck saved my breaking the connector prongs. That or a sloppy soldering might leave a partial connection that fails once warm?
I guess I´m lucky; I´m at 2K mi. The only issues I´ve had was popping a couple spokes on a pothole with an under inflated tire & the
need to adjust the manual discs brakes several times, also a couple flats my fault. I cannot stress strongly enough the value of being
thoroughly acquainted with the manual. I love this bike, but one really needs to treat it with respect. Price wise, it´s an entry level
bike best suited to an experienced e-rider. I spent more than twice as much on my CCS,(1st run), which did not perform half as well as this
moscow has for me. They seem very picky about the charging procedure in the manual, but I can´t say why? German engineering
is very detail oriented; underpaid line workers maybe not so much? Could be like cars, don´t buy one that rolled off the line on a Monday
after Octoberfest?

 

[-sandro-]

Got my first rear flat tire in a year. Am I thrilled to remove the rear wheel? Not really... I think I'm taking it to a bike repair shop...

 

[john peck]

Got my first rear flat tire in a year. Am I thrilled to remove the rear wheel? Not really... I think I'm taking it to a bike repair shop...

What?....& miss the joy of bike maintenance. Goes with the territory. Somewhere in here there´s a step by step post of mine
detailing the removal & replacement of a moscow rear wheel. Think of all those pleasant hours of tinkering, swearing, & bleeding
you´ll miss by not working on yur own bike. C´mon, get a few tools, watch a few video tutorials, get yur hands dirty.
.........On the other hand, if you can afford it. by all means go to a by shop.

 

[-sandro-]

I don't have the tools and I need the the bike for commuting.

Anyway is there a precise list of all the tools I need?

 

[Moscow29]

I used “Slime” in my punctured back wheel - repaired it perfectly and gives ongoing puncture protection . One tube does front and back tyres

 

[jkvt]

I don't have the tools and I need the the bike for commuting.

Anyway is there a precise list of all the tools I need?

I had the unfortunate luck to have to do this last weekend for the first time. The good news is it is easy. 18 and 19mm wrench, loosen both sides of the wheel. Loosen it a bit, but I didn't need to actually remove the bolts. Pull the plug on the motor and cut the last zip tie so you dont rip out the cable. Get a set of bike tire levers and watch youtube to see how they work. That's about all you need. Honestly it's a 10 minute job once you know what you are doing. Maybe even less. It'll take more the first time as you learn how things fit, etc. Definitely good to know.

 

[Presplan]

If anyone is looking to purchase a 48t crank guard for their bike, I purchased this one from Amazon and it seems to fit fine. NiceDream68 Bicycle Bike Cycling Chainring Sprockets Cranksets Guard Protector 48T 4bolts-120mm

 

[john peck]

I had the unfortunate luck to have to do this last weekend for the first time. The good news is it is easy. 18 and 19mm wrench, loosen both sides of the wheel. Loosen it a bit, but I didn't need to actually remove the bolts. Pull the plug on the motor and cut the last zip tie so you dont rip out the cable. Get a set of bike tire levers and watch youtube to see how they work. That's about all you need. Honestly it's a 10 minute job once you know what you are doing. Maybe even less. It'll take more the first time as you learn how things fit, etc. Definitely good to know.

I have come to the conclusion that anyone who has moscow should be prepared to do maintenance. Not so much with a moscow +,
as it has hydraulic brakes which require tuning rarely. It is an entry level bike price-wise, but the buyer should be experienced mechanically.
for a novice the M+ is probably a better idea. Still one shouldn´t really ride a bike without knowing how it works.

 

[jkvt]

I have come to the conclusion that anyone who has moscow should be prepared to do maintenance. Not so much with a moscow +,
as it has hydraulic brakes which require tuning rarely. It is an entry level bike price-wise, but the buyer should be experienced mechanically.
for a novice the M+ is probably a better idea. Still one shouldn´t really ride a bike without knowing how it works.

I would for sure second that people should be prepared to do maintenance. The miles rack up on these faster than on a regular bike and bike parts wear out or need adjusting faster than the comparable part on a car. The good news is with youtube, and enough space to do a little work, I really think *most* adjustments/repairs can be done by most people. If you're a regular rider, you can save some good money by watching a little youtube. Best part is most adjustments take very little time and most repairs are pretty quick too. Short of the electrical stuff, it's just a bike and not much has changed mechanically in over 100 years.

 

[john peck]

I would for sure second that people should be prepared to do maintenance. The miles rack up on these faster than on a regular bike and bike parts wear out or need adjusting faster than the comparable part on a car. The good news is with youtube, and enough space to do a little work, I really think *most* adjustments/repairs can be done by most people. If you're a regular rider, you can save some good money by watching a little youtube. Best part is most adjustments take very little time and most repairs are pretty quick too. Short of the electrical stuff, it's just a bike and not much has changed mechanically in over 100 years.

It just goes with the territory; Unless you have money to burn, every ebike rider should know how to change a tire, a spoke, & how to
adjust brakes & derailleurs. For an ebike one should at least have a folding hex-head kit, tire levers, small vise-grip pliers. & an
8¨ crescent wrench. thatś pretty much the bare minimum. The only thing I don´t carry is a crank puller. A good pocket knife,
& a multi-tool like a Leatherman can be handy. Things work loose faster on an ebike. Keeping them tight is important for safety.

P.S, If you have to change a tire, be damn sure you put it back the way it came apart. Not getting washers in the right position
can ruin your day.

 

[okidoki]

Hi,

After reading positive reviews, I bought an NCM Moscow 27.5 from Amazon.ca last week. Unfortunately, I am experiencing a shut-off problem. After riding 20 km with PAS 2-3 and with no throttle, the display starts shuts off several times before the battery gets completely dead. Before the shut-off problem starts, everything works well. Before the battery gets dead, it shows 4 LEDs green as if it is full. When I connect the battery to the charger, It shows 4 LEDs green immediately, and after 1 hour, it stops charging. I wrote to Leon Cycle and waiting for their reply. I will inform you when they return. Has anyone experienced a similar situation? Is there any suggestion? Thanks.

Hi Again,
I want to update the info about the cut-off problem I posted before. Leon Cycle suspected a controller failure and sent a replacement part and suggested to replace it at a local shop and to pay the replacement cost. I replaced the controller by my self. But nothing changed. After some emailing, they decided that my battery was not functioning correctly. They sent me a replacement battery. After replacing the battery, the problem has gone. Now I am very happy with the bike.

 

[john peck]

Hi Again,
I want to update the info about the cut-off problem I posted before. Leon Cycle suspected a controller failure and sent a replacement part and suggested to replace it at a local shop and to pay the replacement cost. I replaced the controller by my self. But nothing changed. After some emailing, they decided that my battery was not functioning correctly. They sent me a replacement battery. After replacing the battery, the problem has gone. Now I am very happy with the bike.

Glad it´s sorted. Down time can be maddening, I´m treating mine with a bit more respect than I gave the CCS, but it´s spoke lacing
issue eventually snowballed into a nightmare not of my making. I now preflight check before every ride & am a bit fanatical about
keeping the NCM fine tuned. I do wish I gotten the + with hydraulic brakes which don´t need frequent adjustments. ( cable stretch &
temperature changes.)

 

[lankox]

Hi Again,
I want to update the info about the cut-off problem I posted before. Leon Cycle suspected a controller failure and sent a replacement part and suggested to replace it at a local shop and to pay the replacement cost. I replaced the controller by my self. But nothing changed. After some emailing, they decided that my battery was not functioning correctly. They sent me a replacement battery. After replacing the battery, the problem has gone. Now I am very happy with the bike.

I have a controller replacement headed my way. Any advice/pointers for replacing it myself? Thanks!

 

[john peck]

I wish I could help you there, the ownerś manual is pretty good . but no substitute for a service manual. Iḿ thinking connections
are color coded & should be easy, but I´ve no idea how to get at them & maintain waterproof integrity.

 

[okidoki]

I have a controller replacement headed my way. Any advice/pointers for replacing it myself? Thanks!

It is not difficult. I did it by watching the following video. You will need a crank puller to remove the crank arm.

 

[Andy MOSCOW PLUS 29”]

I have a controller replacement headed my way. Any advice/pointers for replacing it myself? Thanks!

Glad it´s sorted. Down time can be maddening, I´m treating mine with a bit more respect than I gave the CCS, but it´s spoke lacing
issue eventually snowballed into a nightmare not of my making. I now preflight check before every ride & am a bit fanatical about
keeping the NCM fine tuned. I do wish I gotten the + with hydraulic brakes which don´t need frequent adjustments. ( cable stretch &
temperature changes.)

 

[Andy MOSCOW PLUS 29”]

Glad you got your moscow sorted, they also replaced my battery after just 150 miles, the 4 led lights failed and bike wouldn‘t switch on sometimes And took several attempts until she fired up. The hydraulic brakes are good , you only need one finger on the levers which gives you better control of the bike. my Moscow plus 29“ has developed a More permanent problem now regarding the switching on, Leon cycles send me instructions to check cables from the battery and I found 2 cables , one thick cable which was connected fine but the other thinner cable was not connected to anything !. I cant see where it should go so now awaiting a reply from Leon. It’s been raining in the U.K. for the past 3 days so i’m not missing out too much riding time.

 

[lankox]

It is not difficult. I did it by watching the following video. You will need a crank puller to remove the crank arm.

Thanks for the video okidoki. What size hex wrench is needed for the bolt? Thanks!

 

[Andy MOSCOW PLUS 29”]

Different frame to the Moscow, there is no hole in the upper part for the smaller cable. I think I’m gonna have to remove the controller and somehow get the other end of the cable through to connect it back up,