I dont think they even have anyone in the UK, all corrospondance comes from Germany.
Known Issues & Problems with NCM Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter troehrkasse
- Start date
Papparay
Member
They had a dealership in Wigan, which is now permanently closed. My bike arrived within days of ordering, so must have come from somewhere in the UK. Perhaps once the lockdown us over things may improve for UK customers.
romavo
New Member
I agree. I went back and forth with them for a few months before I bought a 29 Moscow+ last week. Emails would not get answered in consistent way. Call is the way to go. First ebike and so far I like it quite a bit. My other is 700 hybrid with narrow tires and the combo of Gatorskins and Kevlar liner had almost cutout the flats from Seattle's crappy streets.
john peck
Well-Known Member
Mine didn´t break, but the screws have loosened. a couple times making the connection wobbly, NOT GOOD
So I added a self tapping 1/8¨ x 1/2¨ flat head screw to the left of the other & used multiple layers of black duck tape
to secure the top. not exactly cosmetic, but it works. I think a power tool was used on the screws & stripped the bore.
You can wait a very long time to hear from Leon. I asked about spokes a long time ago. Fortunately I found
a whole set left over from the juiced that will work. (be sure on tire pressure or you´ll bottom out in a pothole
& pop a spoke)
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PacNwTexan
Member
What PSI are you running front and rear? Trail or paved?
john peck
Well-Known Member
That depends primarily on your weight & load; surface is a factor, Iḿ big & need as much
pressure as the beads will safely withstand
. Iḿ runnin´ 60 psi, which is kinda therazor´s edge for me.
romavo
New Member
IDK what my PSIs are. I am on the original Schwalbe Sams. Pumped up hard. Leon had it much lower when I picked up the bike. I rolled it outside and came right back and pumped it up at the Leon warehouse. I've been about 90% street and 10% trails/gravel dirt. I am 200 lb.
Btw I installed these fenders
I had the ncm rack in the back and a milk crate zip tied on it . In order to make them fit I had to unbolt the rack and unclip the milk crate as the fenders were rubbing on the tires.
I put some washers between the rack bolts to elevate the rack a bit and drilled a few holes to run zip ties through the fenders to the rack. After put the crate back on.
Fits well unless you ride deep mud.
SKS Velo 65 MTB Snap-On Bicycle Fenders - Pair
Btw I installed these fenders
Amazon.com : SKS Velo 65 Trekking Front and Rear Snap-On Fender Set, 26 Inch : Bike Fenders : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : SKS Velo 65 Trekking Front and Rear Snap-On Fender Set, 26 Inch : Bike Fenders : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
I had the ncm rack in the back and a milk crate zip tied on it . In order to make them fit I had to unbolt the rack and unclip the milk crate as the fenders were rubbing on the tires.
I put some washers between the rack bolts to elevate the rack a bit and drilled a few holes to run zip ties through the fenders to the rack. After put the crate back on.
Fits well unless you ride deep mud.
SKS Velo 65 MTB Snap-On Bicycle Fenders - Pair
Hi romavo,
Do you mind sharing more details about how you installed the SKS rear fender with the rack? I have the rack on order and plan to install next weekend. I don't plan to have a milk crate zip tied to the rack though so I don't know if that would make a different. I will definitely tie down various object with bungee cords though. Maybe you can post a few pics to more clearly see what you did? Thanks in advance.
romavo
New Member
The biggest space taker between the tire and the fender is the main crossbar that supports the top of the rack. My frender is zip tied straight to that crossbar. I drilled 4 holes into the fender so the zips lay flat against the bottom of the fender. Still not much clearance but enough. If you need more, you could add more spacers between the rack and the frame and use 4 longer bolts that fit.
You get about 1/4 to 1/3 of inch with the original stubby Schwalbe tires. Tires do not rub.
This the middle. Initially I had just used the zip through the frame hole. I was a bit off in the drilled holes in the fender. I decided to go nuts and put the metal piece to use too and zipped it a lot.
To make sure the fender doesn't interfere at the front shifter cable I zipped it as well.
This is the nut I used as spacer. You could use more nuts or washers to gain more clearance but you would need a longer bolt.
Last comment on the fenders. On the front fender bracket I used a drill to ream out the bottom of the bracket to make the opening longer so could use the same bracket to attach the fender and the front lamp to one bracket. I then attached the fender at the bottom end to the fork. By making the opening larger I now had enough space in the bracket to attach the front light to the top of the fender bracket.
Another thing I did was fixing the ball busting water bottle cage placement. I had some shelf brackets around. I cut and drilled them to mount the water bottle holder. The first you see in the pics laying around was too short. On the second try, I used almost the length of the bracket. I predrilled several holes where the cage would go. In the end I found the best position while the bottom was mounted. I took it back off, screwed the cage on with a machine screw lock washer and nut. I glued a strip of window foam insulation under that part and used a Sharpe to paint it black. I then attached the contraption to the regular holes and gave it more stability with zip ties at the long end.
You get about 1/4 to 1/3 of inch with the original stubby Schwalbe tires. Tires do not rub.
This the middle. Initially I had just used the zip through the frame hole. I was a bit off in the drilled holes in the fender. I decided to go nuts and put the metal piece to use too and zipped it a lot.
To make sure the fender doesn't interfere at the front shifter cable I zipped it as well.
This is the nut I used as spacer. You could use more nuts or washers to gain more clearance but you would need a longer bolt.
Last comment on the fenders. On the front fender bracket I used a drill to ream out the bottom of the bracket to make the opening longer so could use the same bracket to attach the fender and the front lamp to one bracket. I then attached the fender at the bottom end to the fork. By making the opening larger I now had enough space in the bracket to attach the front light to the top of the fender bracket.
Another thing I did was fixing the ball busting water bottle cage placement. I had some shelf brackets around. I cut and drilled them to mount the water bottle holder. The first you see in the pics laying around was too short. On the second try, I used almost the length of the bracket. I predrilled several holes where the cage would go. In the end I found the best position while the bottom was mounted. I took it back off, screwed the cage on with a machine screw lock washer and nut. I glued a strip of window foam insulation under that part and used a Sharpe to paint it black. I then attached the contraption to the regular holes and gave it more stability with zip ties at the long end.
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Romavo: GREATLY appreciate the details and pictures. That's exactly what I will have to do when the rear rack arrives. That is some tight clearance but as long as it works, that's all one needs. I was able to get my front fender on (same one you have) with only the center bolt; no rubbing yet. But I am not planning to use the front lamp that comes with the rack, so maybe that is why you had to modify the fender. Either way, great work and thank you again for the help
romavo
New Member
I've never used it; I've heard it can clog a valve core, but I don't know that. I rarely have a flat. It's usually a torn sidewall
from a root or some other catastrophic failure. I like having a dbl. leg stand because it's convenient for several reasons
other than just a tire. I can replace a spoke without taking the wheel off, for one. Also having a rear mount single gives a
choice as how to park.
A dbl. is handy for use with a trailer. As big as I am, a trailer takes weight off the bike. I plan soon to tour desert with 4
batteries, ( 55ah total ). That & a bunch of gear, would seriously overload the bike. No one ever plans taking a wheel
off in the field until the need arises. I also carry a small rope ratchet that will turn a sign post into a bike stand.
There are so many semi-overgrown old logging roads here to explore, but it's completely a matter of self rescue
if something goes wrong. (I always have a small 1st-aid kit. )
P,S. you have no idea how many times I've needed to... 'self-rescue'.
Thanks for all the good advice. I'm also looking a double center stand. It makes total sense the way you explained it. Which one did you end up getting ebay and Amazon are full of them?
Ryan - Leon Cycle
New Member
Hi Everyone,
I just want to point out that if you need assistance with issues in North America, our team in Seattle is here to help. We can also direct your inquiries to the best team members in Europe or Australia. The best contact in the US is [email protected], [email protected] is best for Canada. We will make an effort to monitor these forums in EBR but we are in the midst of a busy season. Emailing or calling us at 206-806-6176 is the best bet for fast response times.
I just want to point out that if you need assistance with issues in North America, our team in Seattle is here to help. We can also direct your inquiries to the best team members in Europe or Australia. The best contact in the US is [email protected], [email protected] is best for Canada. We will make an effort to monitor these forums in EBR but we are in the midst of a busy season. Emailing or calling us at 206-806-6176 is the best bet for fast response times.
john peck
Well-Known Member
Looks like this, don´t know the brand, think it was around $20. Comes with a top clamp, but actually fits more securely
by just running the bolt down thru rather than biting into stays with the clamp. weigh in back lifts the front wheel.
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wattrider
New Member
- Region
- Australia
- City
- Narre Warren
I picked up a double stand from Decathalon (Australia). Not sure if they are in the US though.
The stand seems OK, it's stable enough and has worked well over the past few lockdown travels to the store.
The stand seems OK, it's stable enough and has worked well over the past few lockdown travels to the store.
Attachments
-sandro-
Member
Hi I've owned the NCM Moscow 27.5 non Plus since July 2019. I have no "electric usage" problem with it. Used it for about 2000km.
The problems I'm facing now are
1- due the position of the hub motor they blocked the access to the internal pad adjuster of the rear brake which IS definitely meant to be used, despite of NCM told me to pretend there's no issue, it's even showed in the Tektro manual you adjust the pad that way. No hex key available in the market is that short to fit.
2- the rear pads don't touch the disc entirely, there's a 1-2mm pads "excess". I'm not sure if this was done on purpose or if not how they did it since the adapter mounted is correct (180mm front 160mm rear adapter, the rar disc is 160mm) . This create a "step" in the pads which could be result in a dangerous behavior. When the step is too deep the brake could stop braking all together since the pads touch outside of the disc. Also when I ride at 21-22km/h with the motor on I hear an annoying noise like the cymbals of the drums touching while vibrating. After many tests I can confirm it's the rear disc somehow going into resonance with the motor vibration and then touching the "step" of the pads.
3- cannot seem to mount the rear U stays of the sks velo 65 mountain since the brake is in the way! That's probably my mistake because I made purchased based on a German forum when everyone bought these for the Moscow and then realized they all had the Plus version where the brake has a smaller profile and it's a different position (higher).
Apart from these issues I'm very satisfied with the purchase. I even use it for doing what it's not really mean to be which is going uphills on steep trails. Hub motors can easily burn with this usage. I try to keep the wattage output not at the maximum and with a level of assist of 2-3 and help as much as I can pedaling. If you keep an eye on output and temperature you can do it.
Of course that would be impossible to do when the trails that are really in bad shape with lot of rocks, debris, unstable gravel etc. I avoid those trails, I don't like them in general so...
The problems I'm facing now are
1- due the position of the hub motor they blocked the access to the internal pad adjuster of the rear brake which IS definitely meant to be used, despite of NCM told me to pretend there's no issue, it's even showed in the Tektro manual you adjust the pad that way. No hex key available in the market is that short to fit.
2- the rear pads don't touch the disc entirely, there's a 1-2mm pads "excess". I'm not sure if this was done on purpose or if not how they did it since the adapter mounted is correct (180mm front 160mm rear adapter, the rar disc is 160mm) . This create a "step" in the pads which could be result in a dangerous behavior. When the step is too deep the brake could stop braking all together since the pads touch outside of the disc. Also when I ride at 21-22km/h with the motor on I hear an annoying noise like the cymbals of the drums touching while vibrating. After many tests I can confirm it's the rear disc somehow going into resonance with the motor vibration and then touching the "step" of the pads.
3- cannot seem to mount the rear U stays of the sks velo 65 mountain since the brake is in the way! That's probably my mistake because I made purchased based on a German forum when everyone bought these for the Moscow and then realized they all had the Plus version where the brake has a smaller profile and it's a different position (higher).
Apart from these issues I'm very satisfied with the purchase. I even use it for doing what it's not really mean to be which is going uphills on steep trails. Hub motors can easily burn with this usage. I try to keep the wattage output not at the maximum and with a level of assist of 2-3 and help as much as I can pedaling. If you keep an eye on output and temperature you can do it.
Of course that would be impossible to do when the trails that are really in bad shape with lot of rocks, debris, unstable gravel etc. I avoid those trails, I don't like them in general so...
john peck
Well-Known Member
Sandro, Do you still have your ownerś manual? Page 10, the adjustment bolts are the 2 which face directly to the rear.Hi I've owned the NCM Moscow 27.5 non Plus since July 2019. I have no "electric usage" problem with it. Used it for about 2000km.
The problems I'm facing now are
1- due the position of the hub motor they blocked the access to the internal pad adjuster of the rear brake which IS definitely meant to be used, despite of NCM told me to pretend there's no issue, it's even showed in the Tektro manual you adjust the pad that way. No hex key available in the market is that short to fit.
2- the rear pads don't touch the disc entirely, there's a 1-2mm pads "excess". I'm not sure if this was done on purpose or if not how they did it since the adapter mounted is correct (180mm front 160mm rear adapter, the rar disc is 160mm) . This create a "step" in the pads which could be result in a dangerous behavior. When the step is too deep the brake could stop braking all together since the pads touch outside of the disc. Also when I ride at 21-22km/h with the motor on I hear an annoying noise like the cymbals of the drums touching while vibrating. After many tests I can confirm it's the rear disc somehow going into resonance with the motor vibration and then touching the "step" of the pads.
3- cannot seem to mount the rear U stays of the sks velo 65 mountain since the brake is in the way! That's probably my mistake because I made purchased based on a German forum when everyone bought these for the Moscow and then realized they all had the Plus version where the brake has a smaller profile and it's a different position (higher).
Apart from these issues I'm very satisfied with the purchase. I even use it for doing what it's not really mean to be which is going uphills on steep trails. Hub motors can easily burn with this usage. I try to keep the wattage output not at the maximum and with a level of assist of 2-3 and help as much as I can pedaling. If you keep an eye on output and temperature you can do it.
Of course that would be impossible to do when the trails that are really in bad shape with lot of rocks, debris, unstable gravel etc. I avoid those trails, I don't like them in general so...
Loosen, Do Not Remove! If for any reason you gripped the brake lever with the wheel off, they self adjust & will need to be
reset. From the look of your pads the appear to have been misaligned for some time. Having dbl leg kickstand that lifts
the wheel off the ground makes adjustment a much simpler matter. Right off your need new pads? (ebay) After replacing
pads with wheel off. loose adjustment bolts enuff so that the brake body will wiggle slightly left & right. Replace wheel.
Loosen the barrel adjust at the brake lever to slack cable a bit. While holding the loosened body spin the wheel moving
the body until the wheel spins freely with the rotor slightly closer to the outer pad. Snug up the bolts & re-adjust cable tension.
Your manual has helpful illustrations. I´ve done this a couple times; itś pretty easy once you figure it out. The other issue
with manual discs is that the cable will need regular tuning due to temperature changes & cable stretch. I have 2K mi.
on my 29er & have not yet needed pads, but have had to adjust each time I´ve had the rear wheel off.
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-sandro-
Member
Hi John,
I've never removed the wheel to replace or adjust the brake pads honestly. I don't think they're misaligned. I do what you said to align them horizontally regularly yes but to move the inner pad closer you need to rotate the inner pad bolt. Like you see here
Anyway I did chang the pads, what you see in the pictures are the ones that came with the bike, the ones I replaced about 2 months ago started doing the same thing. I'm not the only one. I talked to people in an Italian forum with the Moscow AND Milano and they also have the same "step" wear issue with the rear brake pads.
Anyway is it difficult to remove the rear wheel?
I've never removed the wheel to replace or adjust the brake pads honestly. I don't think they're misaligned. I do what you said to align them horizontally regularly yes but to move the inner pad closer you need to rotate the inner pad bolt. Like you see here
Anyway is it difficult to remove the rear wheel?
john peck
Well-Known Member
Page 1 this thread, my post dated May 24, 2020 gives a step by step procedure for rear wheel removal, moscow specific.
This is not a simple thing with rear hub motors, but this the easiest way for the moscow I have found. The brake shown in video
not same as moscow. Audi vs. ford. It;s a really good Idea the be thoroughly acquainted with the manual, though
it could use more detail.
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