Known Issues & Problems with Lectric eBikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

1. Close the latch
2. Push forward and keep it in forward position (pic1)
3. Holding it in forward position turn the screw in (pic2) till it hits the latch.
4. Back the screw 1/2 to 3/4 turn and that should fix the problem.

I would use loctite blue so you dont have to fo it again .
After reading Lectric’s well meaning but unhelpful advice I re-invented your technique. ( I didn’t understand yours at first). Then I came back to yours and understood it. Thank you for your help!
 
Anyone have this issue?

I turned on my bike put it in PAS 5 turn the throttle, NOTHING! Turned the bike on and off a few times, still nothing. Suddenly on about the 5th time on and off, it works. Any thoughts? Thanks! (I am still having this intermittent issue I posted back in October. I am asking does anyone have this issue or know what might be the problem? Thank you.
 
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So the 11-34t freewheel I ordered from Aliexpress on Oct 15th arrived at my house on Oct 25! I decided to put it on that nite and it was a bit of a battle, I found that my rear axle was never fully seated on the brake side of the dropout so my wheel has been sitting crooked the whole time I have been riding. I had to put the nuts back on and tap the axle out with a rubber/plastic hammer then I found that my freewheel tool wouldn't fit over the axle shaft so I had to drill out the freewheel tool to be able to use it. After this everything went smoothly but I did have to use a prybar/screwdriver and my hammer to seat the axle fully into the dropouts. That is when the fun began, my rear derailler needed to be reset and the first 6 gears went fine but the last 34t ring was too big for the derailler. I have adjusted the low limit screw to the max and I can shift onto the large cog but the low limit screw won't stop the derailler from shifting past the large cog. I went to Shimano and their compatibility chart shows that our Tourney 7spd rear derailler is only recommended for up to 28t. So I will be testing this out and if I keep shifting past the largest cog I will have to buy a long cage derailler. (from Aliexpress of course!) What has anyone else done about this when you changed to a 11x34t freewheel? If you changed your derailler which one did you buy or use?
 
So the 11-34t freewheel I ordered from Aliexpress on Oct 15th arrived at my house on Oct 25! I decided to put it on that nite and it was a bit of a battle, I found that my rear axle was never fully seated on the brake side of the dropout so my wheel has been sitting crooked the whole time I have been riding. I had to put the nuts back on and tap the axle out with a rubber/plastic hammer then I found that my freewheel tool wouldn't fit over the axle shaft so I had to drill out the freewheel tool to be able to use it. After this everything went smoothly but I did have to use a prybar/screwdriver and my hammer to seat the axle fully into the dropouts. That is when the fun began, my rear derailler needed to be reset and the first 6 gears went fine but the last 34t ring was too big for the derailler. I have adjusted the low limit screw to the max and I can shift onto the large cog but the low limit screw won't stop the derailler from shifting past the large cog. I went to Shimano and their compatibility chart shows that our Tourney 7spd rear derailler is only recommended for up to 28t. So I will be testing this out and if I keep shifting past the largest cog I will have to buy a long cage derailler. (from Aliexpress of course!) What has anyone else done about this when you changed to a 11x34t freewheel? If you changed your derailler which one did you buy or use?
You can also buy derailleur extensions by brand. On AliExpress of course 🤗
 
My battery compartment damage was a bit more than most. It was hit so hard the metal was forced down into the compartment and it would not close. I dremmeled the metal out of the compartment and touched it up and you can't even tell it happened. It is aluminium so if you are going to paint your scratch or knock then clean it with white vinegar and then rubbing alcohol and it will stick.
 

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So the 11-34t freewheel I ordered from Aliexpress on Oct 15th arrived at my house on Oct 25! I decided to put it on that nite and it was a bit of a battle, I found that my rear axle was never fully seated on the brake side of the dropout so my wheel has been sitting crooked the whole time I have been riding. I had to put the nuts back on and tap the axle out with a rubber/plastic hammer then I found that my freewheel tool wouldn't fit over the axle shaft so I had to drill out the freewheel tool to be able to use it. After this everything went smoothly but I did have to use a prybar/screwdriver and my hammer to seat the axle fully into the dropouts. That is when the fun began, my rear derailler needed to be reset and the first 6 gears went fine but the last 34t ring was too big for the derailler. I have adjusted the low limit screw to the max and I can shift onto the large cog but the low limit screw won't stop the derailler from shifting past the large cog. I went to Shimano and their compatibility chart shows that our Tourney 7spd rear derailler is only recommended for up to 28t. So I will be testing this out and if I keep shifting past the largest cog I will have to buy a long cage derailler. (from Aliexpress of course!) What has anyone else done about this when you changed to a 11x34t freewheel? If you changed your derailler which one did you buy or use?
Make sure you remove the spacer between the freewheel and the wheel if your new freewheel has a lip on it. The factory freewheel on our bikes is flush on the backside so the spacer is needed to move the freewheel away from the spoke side. The 11 to 34 freewheel that I bought had a lip on the back of it and didn’t need the spacer. If you leave it in this could be the result IE: shifting past 1st gear...
 
Anyone have this issue?

I turned on my bike put it in PAS 5 turn the throttle, NOTHING! Turned the bike on and off a few times, still nothing. Suddenly on about the 5th time on and off, it works. Any thoughts? Thanks! (I am still having this intermittent issue I posted back in October. I am asking does anyone have this issue or know what might be the problem? Thank you.
 
I was disappointed to see on a youtube that you lose your data, other than odometer, each time you power off.
This apparently means your "Trip A" is erased and you start from zero.
If so, it would be harder to keep track of how many miles you've gone on your current charge.

I have a bicycle GPS that keeps track of that, that I was going to use anyway, but still seems odd.

Is it true? Any comments?
 
I was disappointed to see on a youtube that you lose your data, other than odometer, each time you power off.
This apparently means your "Trip A" is erased and you start from zero.
If so, it would be harder to keep track of how many miles you've gone on your current charge.

I have a bicycle GPS that keeps track of that, that I was going to use anyway, but still seems odd.

Is it true? Any comments?
I believe everything resets with the exception of the odometer when powered down.
 
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask, but I am considering the Lectric XP for my wife (5'8") and myself (6'1"). Every video I have seen, it appears that the riders do not get a proper leg extension. Is this bike suitable for 6'1" person. Also, does anyone know what the peak torque is? At 800 peak watts, I'm assuming it would be around 80 nm, which would make the bike pretty quick off the line?
 
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask, but I am considering the Lectric XP for my wife (5'8") and myself (6'1"). Every video I have seen, it appears that the riders do not get a proper leg extension. Is this bike suitable for 6'1" person. Also, does anyone know what the peak torque is? At 800 peak watts, I'm assuming it would be around 80 nm, which would make the bike pretty quick off the line?
Can't answer your question, but I was just noting how in the company's own promo video, even the very first rider is sitting too low.
I'm quite sure its just a matter of adjustment that was over-looked.
I'm 6 foot, and I have no doubt it will fit me easily. (Was supposed to be delivered today, but delayed. Its at FedEx about 2 miles away. )
 
Both you and your wife will fit fine, if you are talking about the xp. Enough adjustment available to cover the both of you.
 
My rear fender rattles. How many spots is everyone's rear fender attached to the bike? Mine is attached at the bottom by the peddles and on the back with the wire. About a third of the way back it looks like there's a place for a screw, but there isn't one. Should there be??42695
 
Not sure on the newton meter/metres, but I have had no problems with most hills to 25 degrees. After that, a younger person could probably muscle it up but I run out of steam to fast. I then just hop off, turn on walk mode and hang on while the bike drags me and itself up the rest of the way. So far that's only happened twice and I've been in some really hilly country.
 
Noticed this while swapping batteries today, looks like a good place for some more loctite! My other battery is fine though.
 

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I just got my XP a couple of days ago. On my first short ride, the pedals felt 'off', as if they were not totally level, but I attributed that to my being used to riding clips, and not flat pedals, on my mountain bike. On my 2nd ride, after a total of 6 miles on the bike, both pedals came unscrewed, and 1 fell off completely. I could see that they had both been attached 'cross-threaded', and had stripped off some of the threads on both the pedals and the crank arm. I returned home under throttle, and re-attached them, using some thread locker, but won't know if they will eventually fail from the stripped threads. I've seen this same issue mentioned by 2 YouTube reviewers as well, so it seems to be a recurring QC issue. I've notified Lectric of the problem.

My right pedal came off while I was riding today. As it was coming out it must have worn off the threads to the crank arm. Now there are not threads on the crank arm left. Wow, only had it 5 months - and I tightened them with a pedal wrench, too.
I wonder if this is under warranty?

I absolutely love this bike. I hate that this has happened. I wonder if "thread locker" will work.
 
I agree it's not a quality control problem but just tightening the pedals does not seem to be enough. On my bike the right hand pedal fell off AFTER I had tightened it! Now with the blue loctite it seems to be fine. Your pedals probably weren't cross threaded, mine were damaged just because of coming apart but I managed to clean up the threads to install them again. My pedals feel "unlevel" as well but when I look at the pedal the center piece (the bolt) is higher than the body of the pedal and I can feel that when I ride

Same situation with mine. The right pedal didn't seem level. I tightened the pedals with a pedal wrench. The right one came off slowly (apparently) and it looks like it reamed off the threads on the crank arm. Wow. Not happy about that. Otherwise I really love the bike. The bike is still under warranty - I received it in Sept. I wonder if they will send me a new crank arm.
 
Same situation with mine. The right pedal didn't seem level. I tightened the pedals with a pedal wrench. The right one came off slowly (apparently) and it looks like it reamed off the threads on the crank arm. Wow. Not happy about that. Otherwise I really love the bike. The bike is still under warranty - I received it in Sept. I wonder if they will send me a new crank arm.
I would be shocked if they didn’t. My battery wasn’t getting the mileage that it was supposed to and they sent me a brand new battery!
 
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