Well I had my bike for almost 3 years, mainly riding in NYC. Put in a little over 3000 miles and noticed a strange clicking noise. Today I noticed a little bit of wobble and looked a little more carefully... View attachment 126030
I mainly road on streets, some potholes no but I wasn't doing any major curb hopping (once in awhile I would go down a curb at a low speed) . Also avoided rough terrain. I think it is a design flaw with the bike, aluminum is not a great choice with a folding bike. If NYC had less pot holes, maybe the bike would have lasted longer. I think I will go for a non-folding bike next.Yikes! My XP is about 2 years old with 6k or so miles on it...hopefully this wont be an issue for me. Did you do a lot of curb hopping?
At least you could part out the rest of the XP and sell the parts out to get some cash. Battery and motor could fetch some pocket money for the next eBike purchase.
Did you happen to notice that this post was from 2013?Another frame crack https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55676
Stress crack likely from the prior bad crash you suffered back in 2020. That's the bad news. The good news is it's repairable.My frame by the hinge is cracked...looks like I am buying a new bike this week. Don't think I will get an Lectric again, want something a little higher quality. This is something I noticed that happened with other Lectric bikes, didn't think it would happen to me.
Didn't notice it, I was looking for the other Lectric post where the hinge cracked in the same location that mine crack.Did you happen to notice that this post was from 2013?
I looked at the hinge a few months ago, everything was fine. The crash wasn't a bad one, wasn't going fast and I fell wrong. But I think the wear and tear from bad streets was more of a factor.Stress crack likely from the prior bad crash you suffered back in 2020. That's the bad news. The good news is it's repairable.
There could have been almost invisible damage initially that over time just spread. I'm sure the NYC potholes didn't help.I looked at the hinge a few months ago, everything was fine. The crash wasn't a bad one, wasn't going fast and I fell wrong. But I think the wear and tear from bad streets was more of a factor.
Looks right on the weld. Have you sent pics to Lectric?Well I had my bike for almost 3 years, mainly riding in NYC. Put in a little over 3000 miles and noticed a strange clicking noise. Today I noticed a little bit of wobble and looked a little more carefully... View attachment 126030
It was on the weld, it is only about an 1/8" thick. When i get it repaired, I will have the welder layer up the joint so that it is at least a 1/4" thick.Looks right on the weld. Have you sent pics to Lectric?
I’m just reading these posts now and I’m stunned to see I have the same observation on the PAS ranges on my XP 2.0 In October 2022. There is a big jump between 2 and 3 and on 4 I am at 20 mph. More specifically, PAS 2 is too slow for me unless I am sightseeing on a flat path. There should be something between 2 and 3, 3 should be 4 and 4 should be 5. Also, I have experienced the delayed engagement in PAS and am now wondering if the key (which I’ve never touched since I first inserted it on the bike) is not full seated or in the “furthest” on position.Mine had a minor problem.
The first ride was great. We then parked it, and messed with the key to turn it off. On the 2nd ride, it was very slow, and hesitated. Lots of delay before throttle or PAS would work, and then very weak. Turning the controller off/on didn't help.
But re-doing the key fixed it. The key might not have been turned to 'on' as far as it could have been. I think the key might be moving some electrical connections into place. So, if it is not fully on, things might not work well. No problem with that since then.
The only thing I don't like right now is that PAS3,4,5 are all the same when in class2 mode. They don't scale to match the 20mph top speed. The gap between pas2 and pas3 is too big.
Well that's disappointing. I'm still thinking it has to be something rattling. New wheel, new controller, it shouldn't be anything electrical by this point.I got the new controller today and installed it (I got. New wheel a few weeks back). Yesterday I took the rear wheel off and put rubber washers on the two places where the fender attaches to the frame. After installing the new controller I took the bike for a short test ride. I heard the sound right away and then it stopped. It reappeared a few times during my 8 mile ride, always for just a few seconds and pretty much under load conditions.
This noise is definitely a thing. What it is I wish I knew. That Lectric’s CS folks haven’t isolated it and found a fix after a year on the market and 140,000 sold is a head scratcher to me. They are very attentive and are trying to do right by me. I’m just frustrated. I think I’m going to get the authorized mobile repair guys involved and see what they tell me.
I didn’t mention it earlier but when I had the wheel off I put on the 11-28 free wheel. I was going to wait to see if the new controller fixed things and, if not, I could return it to Amazon but I couldn’t resist. I can feel the difference. The funny thing is, the way it’s configured, 6th gear is close to the old 7th gear. So I imagine I will now spend 99% of my time in 6 or 7 except on big hills. Is your other bike also an XP 2.0? If so, and it doesn’t make that noise, then it confirms that I’m not crazy about the noise being “not normal.”Well that's disappointing. I'm still thinking it has to be something rattling. New wheel, new controller, it shouldn't be anything electrical by this point.
I'm still not 100% sure the washer is the final fix for mine but I'll know more when I take it for a longer ride this weekend.
If it's still doing it, my next step is to take every possible attachment off the bike - the fenders, the rear rack, the lights, and anything else I can take off that won't affect the functioning of the bike.
My frustration with Lectric's CS has been that they have told me twice that this noise is normal. I refuse to buy that considering only one of my Lectrics has had this problem and there's no way a $1200 bike (I got the long range version) should sound like I'm dragging a shovel behind it. I'm sure they're as annoyed with me as I have been frustrated with them.
And to add to the frustration, the stock wheel and the first replacement wheel they sent me had Shimano freewheels. The final replacement wheel which is now on the bike has some crappy off-brand freewheel that the only info I could find about it pointed to it being a very cheap Chinese knockoff of a Shimano. I asked them about it and they refused to replace it with a comparable freewheel. Granted, even the stock Shimano is something I can replace for $25 but still....
So yeah, I' a bit frustrated with them.