Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
It'll fit, just be more prone to puncture. It's really just a balloon, more air makes it bigger.
Better question is will the 2.35" fit your CCS. Inquiring minds want to know
john peck
Well-Known Member
It'll fit, just be more prone to puncture. It's really just a balloon, more air makes it bigger.
Better question is will the 2.35" fit your CCS. Inquiring minds want to know
The rim does look a bit skinny for a tire that size. Could work? I've done similar with a 26" Really, we want to know.
Asher
Well-Known Member
Ha Chris it's going on my front wheel with a rigid fork, so not much help.
Schwalbe says yes, barely. IMO Juiced specced rims that are too narrow, they should be 23-25mm, not much point to running skinnier than 45mm tires. Treks ecommuter has 30mm rims, the Stromer ST5 has 40mm rims. Really, I think Juiced should spec 30-40mm rims and 2.15"-2.35" out of the box....
https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions
Schwalbe says yes, barely. IMO Juiced specced rims that are too narrow, they should be 23-25mm, not much point to running skinnier than 45mm tires. Treks ecommuter has 30mm rims, the Stromer ST5 has 40mm rims. Really, I think Juiced should spec 30-40mm rims and 2.15"-2.35" out of the box...
.https://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/tire_dimensions
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Asher
Well-Known Member
I don't have the front fender on. Was thinking about getting some pretty/vain ones from velo orange but their biggest is for 55mm tires
...Might put on the fender if it we're Rainier, but I just slow down for the rare puddle.
john peck
Well-Known Member
Here in the rain forest, I rode for years without fenders, so I guess I'd get by. If I were to go for 29 x 2.35s, it
would just be for off road. Those tires ain't cheap. I'm a mite old for shredding downhill. I've been getting
away with the tires I've got on not-so-gnarly trails. Tougher trails are what this bike is for.( now has suspension
seat & post) The motor takes me up: don't need it going down.
would just be for off road. Those tires ain't cheap. I'm a mite old for shredding downhill. I've been getting
away with the tires I've got on not-so-gnarly trails. Tougher trails are what this bike is for.( now has suspension
seat & post) The motor takes me up: don't need it going down.
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Asher
Well-Known Member
$60 for the G-Ones if Tubeless Easy, vs $40 for Big Apple's, and the BAs have double the durability rating. The Almotion is probably the best all around for protection, durability and speed, though you need to go tubeless with them.
Biking is so cheap to begin with I don't mind shelling out for a little fun. Just waiting for my bigger inner tube to come through before mounting the 2.35"
Biking is so cheap to begin with I don't mind shelling out for a little fun. Just waiting for my bigger inner tube to come through before mounting the 2.35"
Chuck E. Cheese
Active Member
That's great to hear, Asher. It seems bad experiences are more likely to be reported than good ones. It's nice to see a good one.
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
OK I have a concern about the battery lock interface. As everyone seems to be aware, getting the battery to "click" in place securely requires a bit of force at the right angle. For me, I have to kind of slam the battery into position from an inch or so out. I have tried using the key to open the lock and push the battery in more gently, but this doesn't seem to allow the lock to set properly.
At any rate, this already seems to be creating a bit of wear on the battery where the locking mechanism engages. I am concerned that over time, this may create too much wear and cause the battery to not secure properly. Has anyone else noticed this, and anyone have a good solution??? Thanks.
At any rate, this already seems to be creating a bit of wear on the battery where the locking mechanism engages. I am concerned that over time, this may create too much wear and cause the battery to not secure properly. Has anyone else noticed this, and anyone have a good solution??? Thanks.
Asher
Well-Known Member
Others have said and my experience confirms it gets easier over time. There's a little bit of "break in" like a pair of shoes.
I recommend applying slow but firm force to prevent wear or breakage. If it's not working, you probably need to realign the battery.
My issue is two fold. And really my openly major complaint. The battery is hard to get to lock in. Worse though....it will become unlocked with road vibrations or jumbling the bike around in place
1. It scares me that the battery will fall out.
2. It doesn’t give me confidence with leaving th bike locked up outside.
Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
Have you tried the "push down" technique? Put it in place and exert a force parallel to the down tube, towards the crank. If you've already tried and it didn't help, then you might try a different angle. Mine seems to go in most freely from a 30 degree angle.
CCS Wide 48V 19.2
philerooski
New Member
Perpendicular worked best for me, at least until the mechanism wore in and it was no longer necessary. I scratched the casing a few times with the "slam" technique, but realized that I could put the battery in normally, then apply a strong force parallel to the ground until I heard a soft click. You can also check that's it's seated by trying to pull the battery out with considerably less force than with which you just pushed it in. It will come out without too much trouble if there was no soft click and the battery did not lock in place.
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