Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

[Ann M.]

@Asher, have you checked the tightness of the small lock screw, usually on the bottom of the throttle mount? I have seen overtight lock screws cause the stickiness. Also agree with Fran's post: a throttle lacking a thin spacer to keep it from rubbing on a handlebar grip could be an issue or the mount for a brake lever could interfere with the throttle.

 

[Asher]

Thanks for the replies! I looked and apparently the screw is gone, but the fixture still doesn't move around the bars much. I played with it for a bit and it seemed to get better, but I'll be watchful with it. I definitely use it at stop lights otherwise.

I came to cross a six lane huge boulevard here without a traffic light (Venice) and suddenly the bike was running out from underneath me - that was scary lol. Thankfully I immediately unstuck the throttle and pulled the handlebars back.

There's an airhorn right next to it but it's angled to block the throttle just above the end of the throttles arc, so it has no effect on the throttle. Will post a pic later.

 

[karmap]

New to ebikes but these seems strange to me so thought I would ask.

The battery does not seem 100% static on the inside. If I take the battery and turn it upside down I can feel something slide around. Almost like a sand bag from cornhole was dropped from a few inches off the ground.

In my mind that shouldn’t be a thing but am asking to confirm. I don’t think I’ve ever had a battery with moving parts.

Battery is in working order.

Thoughts ?

Bump

 

[NeilCruz]

@Asher ,

I'm thinking I might need to add lock tight or superglue to my assembly instructions. Missing screws seems like a "bad thing".


@karmap,
Maybe you should start a new post asking this question. You might get more feedback.

 

[JMuir]

I have a Crosscurrent S and notice my motor makes a lot of noise sometimes when I go uphill or there is a strong head wind. The pedals will start to vibrate as well. Sometimes it will go away if i stop pedaling and let it reset. Is this normal?

 

[michael mitchell]

I have a Crosscurrent S and notice my motor makes a lot of noise sometimes when I go uphill or there is a strong head wind. The pedals will start to vibrate as well. Sometimes it will go away if i stop pedaling and let it reset. Is this normal?

Both of my hub motor ebikes do this occasionally as well. I read somewhere that it's due to slight imperfections in the internal gears. If they engage at the right moment, you get the vibration. If it's any consolation, I've got 1.5K and about 2.5K miles on the bikes, and the motors have never quit on me. It is a bit worrying the first time you experience it, though.

 

[Reid]

I have a Crosscurrent S and notice my motor makes a lot of noise sometimes when I go uphill or there is a strong head wind. The pedals will start to vibrate as well. Sometimes it will go away if i stop pedaling and let it reset. Is this normal?

It is for me. There is a sweet engagement nearly silent on my bike. And there are two other possible engagements, more or less noisy and buzzy, telegraphing noise into the entire bike

 

[Bruce Arnold]

What @Reid and @michael mitchell said. This is my experience also.

 

[MisterBritcom]

Hello Forum,
My CCS has about 700 miles now, no problems except chain drop.
I put on the aluminum chain catcher recommended on the Juiced site. This has eliminated drops toward the frame, but it drops toward my right foot when shifting to 9th gear. If I stop pedaling, shift, and slowly start pedaling again I can usually make the gear change okay, but this method is a pain when riding in traffic and trying to accelerate quickly. I know we should decrease pedal effort when shifting, but not to this degree.
I haven't tried shortening the chain yet, some have speculated that it helps for a while, until the chain tension spring fatigues and you're back where you started.
I love the CCS, and I'm not knocking the company, it's been a really great value so far.
I dont want to shell out major money swapping parts, but I'm open to suggestions on a fix.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

Sounds like you just need to adjust the rear derailleur. I had my LBS do it for me when I first got the bike for similar reasons. Cost me all of $15.

 

[Reid]

Hello Forum,
My CCS has about 700 miles now, no problems except chain drop.
I put on the aluminum chain catcher recommended on the Juiced site. This has eliminated drops toward the frame, but it drops toward my right foot when shifting to 9th gear. If I stop pedaling, shift, and slowly start pedaling again I can usually make the gear change okay, but this method is a pain when riding in traffic and trying to accelerate quickly. I know we should decrease pedal effort when shifting, but not to this degree.
I haven't tried shortening the chain yet, some have speculated that it helps for a while, until the chain tension spring fatigues and you're back where you started.
I love the CCS, and I'm not knocking the company, it's been a really great value so far.
I dont want to shell out major money swapping parts, but I'm open to suggestions on a fix.

Is it dropping off the chainring and getting in between the chainring and the guard ring?

If so, mine did that half the time and I could not see any proper way to stop it. The gap between chainring and guard ring was spaced nice and wide, as if it was meant mess you up and take away your drive just when you need it.

Cure: better parts. Example: Narrow wide chainring like shown below might be enough. But it is about $35 or so.

(this one is a 56T. I think now that a 58T would also fit.)

 

[MisterBritcom]

Yes, it gets between the ring and guard, just as you described.
Is that your bike in the photo? Did the narrow/wide chainring solve the problem?

 

[Reid]

Yes, it gets between the ring and guard, just as you described.
Is that your bike in the photo? Did the narrow/wide chainring solve the problem?

Yes, that is my CCS in a crop of an image snapped today.

So, the =thought= of the guide ring is that the gap should be narrower than the chain is wide. But it is wider than the chain is wide. So the darned chain falls outboard and slides slick as can be and you windmill and feel like you've been fooled again.

When I put on the narrow-wide, at that same time I put on the Shimano Shadow Plus derailleur and XT shifter and 10S 11-42T cassette.

I cannot say that the chainring by itself will be the full cure. But do some reading and I think you will find that most folks find a narrow wide ring provides all the fix they really need.

Here are some very good and easy to use chainring bolts, with hex wrench holes on both sides. So much nicer than the stock chainring bolts (which must be replaced, anyway, if you ditch the useless guard ring, because they will be too long).

*Sigh,* that the guard ring only protects pants...

 

[MisterBritcom]

Yes, that is my CCS in a crop of an image snapped today.

So, the =thought= of the guide ring is that the gap should be narrower than the chain is wide. But it is wider than the chain is wide. So the darned chain falls outboard and slides slick as can be and you windmill and feel like you've been fooled again.

When I put on the narrow-wide, at that same time I put on the Shimano Shadow Plus derailleur and XT shifter and 10S 11-42T cassette.

I cannot say that the chainring by itself will be the full cure. But do some reading and I think you will find that most folks find a narrow wide ring provides all the fix they really need.

Here are some very good and easy to use chainring bolts, with hex wrench holes on both sides. So much nicer than the stock chainring bolts (which must be replaced, anyway, if you ditch the useless guard ring, because they will be too long).

*Sigh,* that the guard ring only protects pants...

Thanks for the link, looks like this is the next logical step.
I ordered the 56 tooth narrow/wide in something of a three prong attack.
1) Being larger, it should take up a small bit of chain slack.
2) The tooth design is intended to improve chain retention.
3) Raising the overall gearing means I won't use 9th gear as often, keeping the chain closer to the center of the cassette.

 

[john peck]

CCS 1250 mi. inspection: Front wheel needed very slight truing (pothole). Derailleur cable had stretched; tightened & indexed. I'm not
thrilled with my 28"x 1.75" Schwalbe marathons. They're great on my regular bikes, but just not enough grip for the CCS.
Impression, I love this bike!!!

 

[JMuir]

My battery keeps getting loose on my CCS. Juiced sent me a new battery mount interface, which worked for a couple months. Now every 20 - 30 miles my display will go blank and I'll lose all my power. The only way to get it back online is to unlock the battery, remove, and then reconnect. Is this a common problem? Is there an ultimate solution?

 

[karmap]

My battery keeps getting loose on my CCS. Juiced sent me a new battery mount interface, which worked for a couple months. Now every 20 - 30 miles my display will go blank and I'll lose all my power. The only way to get it back online is to unlock the battery, remove, and then reconnect. Is this a common problem? Is there an ultimate solution?

Mine has the same issue and I have a replacement coming. Sad to hear it didn’t fix it.

I have a bungee cord wrapped around the battery and the frame. Isn’t pretty but it hasn’t happened since I’ve done it. Not the most ideal solution. Hopefully my replacement works.

 

[NeilCruz]

@JMuir and @karmap ,

I remember reading previously someone who had an intermittent connection issue that was solved with battery insertion - and I vaguely recall something about somehow adjusting the socket in the battery mount + adding a shim, maybe at the base of the battery.

Sorry I don't have a better recall. When I have time tonight I'll try to search more - but I think there was something similar on a gen1 CrossCurrent.

 

[Diarmuid]

I think that's a weakness of that particular design. Here's a post from another manufacturer that uses the same part where they suggest using a 3M gel tape to fill in the gaps.

 

[NeilCruz]

Sorry I don't have a better recall. When I have time tonight I'll try to search more - but I think there was something similar on a gen1 CrossCurrent.

I can not seem to find the post that I was thinking of...

If you want to see a video of someone removing the wide battery base - there is a youtube video from "Dbf Crell" labeled "Juiced RipCurrent S - Bad Controller Changeout" where he records fully removing the wide base as part of the ECU change.

BTW, for my RCS my I need to do 2 things different than what is indicated to insert the battery:

1. I need to use the key to keep the security pin "retracted"
2. I insert the bottom of the battery in the expected way (45 degree angle coming in from the side) but then I have to swing the whole battery inwards so that the battery top is vertically lined up with frame and then drop it down (which is not how the juiced videos show battery insertion)

I have about 15 battery insertions (2-3 times a week I have to park my bike where I don't want the battery to stay on the bike).

BTW - if anyone comes up with a "cover" for the battery area when the battery is removed (maybe a pull down sleeve?) please post a link.