Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes

Hi John, good news for you: last week in repairing my crashed bike I installed a 56T narrow-wide chainring and it clears the chainstay just fine. Also, a 10S Shadow + clutch derailleur was put on with astonishingly good results! NO MORE CHAIN DROPS, whooooopeee! And the already great shifting of the stock 9S is further improved. I will make a thread about it someday after more evaluation of the new drivetrain.
I'm interested to hear more about your experience with the Shadow. The stock shifters and derailleur are fine, but if there's a significant improvement at a reasonable price...
 
I'm interested to hear more about your experience with the Shadow. The stock shifters and derailleur are fine, but if there's a significant improvement at a reasonable price...
If you are not dropping chain the 9S stock setup is fine.

In not very brief, what I have recently gleaned from the 'net: 9S is many years ago stuff. There must be tons of it remaining unwanted in the supply lanes. 10S came along quite a few years back now, and then shortly thereafter, 11S became the new keep-up-with-the-Jones', gotta-have-it bike bling

We don't need so many gears, of course, but the clutch-type tech of Shimano (they bundle it with their "Shadow" lower protruding derailleur tech) Plus and the similar clutch, Sram makes, only came out for 10S and 11S (and we presume for 12S to come). 9S is not supported by the new anti-chain-drop tech, although you can get a narrow-wide chainring (more in a bit) and use that for a possible total cure for your chain drop issues.

The Shimano Shadow derailleurs are for mountain bikes. The SPRING on that Shadow tension arm is a great deal stronger than our stock CCS 9S tension arms, a big plus toward reduction of chainring chain drop incidents. The CLUTCH of of the Shadow Plus adds yet additional control to the chain, reducing jouncing of the upper length of the chain. When a chain jounces left or right and there is no effective guide, the chain runs off the upper half of the chainwheel.

I am not "pontificating," I hope. I mean only to describe what I have learned as seen from my own perspective.

Months ago I shortened the stock chain and experienced for 200 or so miles NO chain drops! I thought I had the issue licked. But the cocked-back tension spring must have lost some tension...the spring weakened over a span of time, I guess. After a week or so the pattern of chain drops returned as bad as ever.

Besides a much stronger tension arm spring (which seems to be the single most valuable step to reduce chain drops) and the Shadow Plus Shimano derailleurs, there is also the cure of the narrow-wide tooth chainring.

I cannot advise which one is most curative of chain drops because I adopted the three expedients at the same time: a 56T narrow-wide chainring, a derailleur with a MUCH stronger tension arm spring, PLUS it has that one-way friction clutch Shimano pairs with its low-protrusion Shadow MTB derailleur lineup that they call Plus.

The Shadow Plus derailleur upgrade gave me 10 gears and absolutely requires changing to a 10S cassette and a 10S trigger shifter and a 10S chain.

Were I on a budget I would have gotten only the narrow-wide chainring to see if that curative step is sufficient by itself. It will work with 9S chain.

hth.

PS: Early on, before I gave up and bought the gear above, I tried but failed to find any successful chain guide for our stock 52T chainwheels. There may be one. And my bike's factory supplied chainring bash guard did not prevent chain drops on its side at all; I could not see bending it, that would look nasty, and reversing it would not have brought it any closer to the chainring. Besides that, half the time the chain dropped from the left side of the chainring, where there is no room for a guide ring.
 
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Hi John, good news for you: last week in repairing my crashed bike I installed a 56T narrow-wide chainring and it clears the chainstay just fine. Also, a 10S Shadow + clutch derailleur was put on with astonishingly good results! NO MORE CHAIN DROPS, whooooopeee! And the already great shifting of the stock 9S is further improved. I will make a thread about it someday after more evaluation of the new drivetrain.

So Reid......., Ya crashed it,huh. Is than any way to treat a high tech piece of machinery? :)
 

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Spoke to a representative, a woman with an Asian language accent in San Diego. She seemed a bit unsure but said they got one shipment of 19.2ah batteries and have another coming by air in two weeks, and that existing orders will be met through those two shipments, first in first out.

Also, the 19.2 ah batteries are now listed for sale separately, for $900 vs the $1000 for the 17.4ah previously listed, a nice price cut of about 20% per ah.
 
Eureka! I discovered a marvelous thing called a suspension seat post. All these years I've been plunkin' my
bony butt down on springer saddles. Still am but, a cheap 40mm of travel on a post seems the perfect
compliment to the stock fork. It's not like I riding in a Red Bull downhill, so why shell out for a Thudbuster.
AH, We few, we happy few that have a CCS. The issues are insignifiant compared to the joy of riding one.
Kwakiutl-Sailing-Boats.jpg
 
Is there a way to easy verify the battery capacity? Was suppose to get the 19.2ah battery but documentation says it's 17.4. Guessing it just wasn't updated but would like to double check.
 
Is there a way to easy verify the battery capacity? Was suppose to get the 19.2ah battery but documentation says it's 17.4. Guessing it just wasn't updated but would like to double check.

There should be a sticker on the battery itself telling you the capacity.
 
Is there a way to easy verify the battery capacity? Was suppose to get the 19.2ah battery but documentation says it's 17.4. Guessing it just wasn't updated but would like to double check.
I'm guessing that the documentation hasn't been updated yet. They sold out of the 17.4s a while back - I got one of the last ones - so the probability that you got the wrong battery approaches zero.

But hey, email them for confirmation. They've always replied within 24 hrs with answers to my questions.
 
There should be a sticker on the battery itself telling you the capacity.
I'm guessing that the documentation hasn't been updated yet. They sold out of the 17.4s a while back - I got one of the last ones - so the probability that you got the wrong battery approaches zero.

But hey, email them for confirmation. They've always replied within 24 hrs with answers to my questions.

Thanks! It did have a sticker saying 19.2, I had glazed over it when I was looking at it as I thought it was just part of the bar code number.
 
I finally fixed the power cutouts I was getting on my original Cross Current with the 17.4Ah battery. I added more Velcro to shim it and get rid of the battery movement. I think it was the side-to-side rocking that was causing the power to cutout over bigger bumps.
 
The FAQ on the Juiced Websites list a few things you can do to avoid chain drops. I haven't seen that mentioned here in the forum, so I thought I post the link.

https://juicedbikes.happyfox.com/kb...ring-when-going-over-bumps-or-shifting-gears/

I installed the exact chain catcher that is listed (K-Edge Cross Single) there after I had two chain drops during my first ten rides or so. So far, so good - no more drops. Time will tell if it is going to hold up.

The chain catcher is a bit pricy for what it is, but it fits perfectly and I was able to get a returned but new one for $20 on eBay.
 
The FAQ on the Juiced Websites list a few things you can do to avoid chain drops. I haven't seen that mentioned here in the forum, so I thought I post the link.

https://juicedbikes.happyfox.com/kb...ring-when-going-over-bumps-or-shifting-gears/

I installed the exact chain catcher that is listed (K-Edge Cross Single) there after I had two chain drops during my first ten rides or so. So far, so good - no more drops. Time will tell if it is going to hold up.

The chain catcher is a bit pricy for what it is, but it fits perfectly and I was able to get a returned but new one for $20 on eBay.
Slow, can you post a pic of your chain guide installed? Thanks.
 
Thanks for the pics. Nice that you were able to find a cheaper one. I'm hoping I don't need to spend $60 to fix this problem.
 
Hi John, good news for you: last week in repairing my crashed bike I installed a 56T narrow-wide chainring and it clears the chainstay just fine. Also, a 10S Shadow + clutch derailleur was put on with astonishingly good results! NO MORE CHAIN DROPS, whooooopeee! And the already great shifting of the stock 9S is further improved. I will make a thread about it someday after more evaluation of the new drivetrain after I heal up and can really pedal the bike.

Everything still working great with this setup? I just watched this video about the 1x system, which is what is in the CC and CCS.


One of the things mentioned is the very short chainstay. Which if you remember in Courts review of the CCS Tora made notice of when Court talked to him about chain drops etc. It's worth watching. Discusses things like gear ratios as well. I'm looking to upgrade my ccs to a system with a clutch. Wondering how yours is doing so far.

I haven't had a chain drop in a while since I installed a cheap chain catcher I found on a bike we were throwing away at work. But adding a 10 speed with this newer clutch technology seems pretty cool.
 
If you are not dropping chain the 9S stock setup is fine.

In not very brief, what I have recently gleaned from the 'net: 9S is many years ago stuff. There must be tons of it remaining unwanted in the supply lanes. 10S came along quite a few years back now, and then shortly thereafter, 11S became the new keep-up-with-the-Jones', gotta-have-it bike bling

We don't need so many gears, of course, but the clutch-type tech of Shimano (they bundle it with their "Shadow" lower protruding derailleur tech) Plus and the similar clutch, Sram makes, only came out for 10S and 11S (and we presume for 12S to come). 9S is not supported by the new anti-chain-drop tech, although you can get a narrow-wide chainring (more in a bit) and use that for a possible total cure for your chain drop issues.

The Shimano Shadow derailleurs are for mountain bikes. The SPRING on that Shadow tension arm is a great deal stronger than our stock CCS 9S tension arms, a big plus toward reduction of chainring chain drop incidents. The CLUTCH of of the Shadow Plus adds yet additional control to the chain, reducing jouncing of the upper length of the chain. When a chain jounces left or right and there is no effective guide, the chain runs off the upper half of the chainwheel.

I am not "pontificating," I hope. I mean only to describe what I have learned as seen from my own perspective.

Months ago I shortened the stock chain and experienced for 200 or so miles NO chain drops! I thought I had the issue licked. But the cocked-back tension spring must have lost some tension...the spring weakened over a span of time, I guess. After a week or so the pattern of chain drops returned as bad as ever.

Besides a much stronger tension arm spring (which seems to be the single most valuable step to reduce chain drops) and the Shadow Plus Shimano derailleurs, there is also the cure of the narrow-wide tooth chainring.

I cannot advise which one is most curative of chain drops because I adopted the three expedients at the same time: a 56T narrow-wide chainring, a derailleur with a MUCH stronger tension arm spring, PLUS it has that one-way friction clutch Shimano pairs with its low-protrusion Shadow MTB derailleur lineup that they call Plus.

The Shadow Plus derailleur upgrade gave me 10 gears and absolutely requires changing to a 10S cassette and a 10S trigger shifter and a 10S chain.

Were I on a budget I would have gotten only the narrow-wide chainring to see if that curative step is sufficient by itself. It will work with 9S chain.

hth.

PS: Early on, before I gave up and bought the gear above, I tried but failed to find any successful chain guide for our stock 52T chainwheels. There may be one. And my bike's factory supplied chainring bash guard did not prevent chain drops on its side at all; I could not see bending it, that would look nasty, and reversing it would not have brought it any closer to the chainring. Besides that, half the time the chain dropped from the left side of the chainring, where there is no room for a guide ring.
Reid, if you don't mind me asking, what do you think was the total cost of your conversion to the 10S shadow system? I am trying to decide if I will just want to try a chain guide or if I should just jump to your setup. Obviously cost is a big part of the decision. For those who have just gone with a chain guide, are you satisfied with the lack of chain drops and overall function? For those who have done nothing, how often are you experiencing chain drops? Thanks.
 
Reid, if you don't mind me asking, what do you think was the total cost of your conversion to the 10S shadow system?
About $65 for the 10s Shadow Plus long cage derailleur and $30 for the 10s shifter and $27 for the extended range 10s cassette. Add also $37 for a 56T narrow-wide chainring that may be considered optional.

edit: I forgot to include the cost of the two 10S chains, over $40 (one chain is not quite long enough. I had to add a half dozen links from the second chain and use its supplied quick connector.

Am glad I spent the money instead of settling on a chain guide, although I never did find a satisfactory chain guide.

Who has a good chain guide for their CCS?
 
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