That sounds..weird.. but I will take your word for it. I should have no problem getting the tires I want now.
Known Issues & Problems with Juiced Bikes Products + Help, Solutions & Fixes
- Thread starter Ann M.
- Start date
That sounds..weird.. but I will take your word for it. I should have no problem getting the tires I want now.
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
There is nothing special about the stock gearing on the bike. In fact Juiced used to offer a 10 spd option for the CCS; my guess is it was a very low volume option selection and they decided it wasn't worth the hassle to provide it any longer.
The gearing of a bike should be directed to primarily the terrain being ridden and to some extent the preference of the rider.
The setup Reid is using actually offers both a lower low gear and a higher high gear. That only serves to make the bike more versatile overall. If money was no object, I'd personally switch mine as soon as I get it. If you are seriously considering changing an entire crankset to find the chainring you want, the money is better spent on the 10 spd switch, IMHO.
From what I saw, I have plenty of options with 9 speed cassets so if I want to play with ratios down the line I won't feel bad about sticking with a 9 speed derailleur. You seem to think I am replacing the entire drive train but I am not. Sticking with 9 speed means I get to keep the same chain, too. I simply wanted to update equipment to reduce chain drops. The derailleur is simply a must replace because they give you a $20 toy that has been shown to fail early. As for the chain ring, it seemed like a very simple replacement to upgrade to a narrow-wide, although I havnt been able to figure out if I need to buy a crank with it based on existing fittings.
john peck
Well-Known Member
Maintenance update: i.e. CCS stock kendas. I weighed #300 when it arrived, now #230. I ride on wet grimy roads, so
I'm likely to wear out tires faster than the rest of you. Changed rear tire today at 900 mi for a 28" x 1.75 regular Schwalbe marathon.
The front kenda still looks good, (guess suspension reduces wear) I know the Schwables will roll better, but they're narrower.
I think the kendas are better for wet road, but summer's coming. Being narrower the Schwalbes are still good on wet road if
your on a regular bike, but I'm not all that sure about a heavier ebike. Anyway, if you're still on the stock kendas at 900 mi.,
you might want look at tires.
I'm likely to wear out tires faster than the rest of you. Changed rear tire today at 900 mi for a 28" x 1.75 regular Schwalbe marathon.
The front kenda still looks good, (guess suspension reduces wear) I know the Schwables will roll better, but they're narrower.
I think the kendas are better for wet road, but summer's coming. Being narrower the Schwalbes are still good on wet road if
your on a regular bike, but I'm not all that sure about a heavier ebike. Anyway, if you're still on the stock kendas at 900 mi.,
you might want look at tires.
Asher
Well-Known Member
Made the same swap myself, after about 70 miles. Definitely noticed better rolling which surprised me, given all the puncture protection. Let us know how the ride feels in comparison, I think it's a little stiffer but I already forget what the kendas we're like.
And that's awesome weight loss - did you make any other lifestyle changes, or just the ebiking? You must be able to go faster now on a given pedal assist level.
Chris Hammond
Well-Known Member
Excellent work with the weight loss.
Nearly all bikes experience much higher wear on the rear tire vs front. This is because our bodyweight is shifted disproportionately to the rear of the bike. Many people will rotate tires front to rear periodically to even out the wear, others just plan on replacing the rear twice as often.
As a side note, does anyone know the biggest tire that will fit without issues on a CCS?
Reid
Well-Known Member
If you can just find a 9 speed derailleur with a stronger tension arm spring, that may be all the fix needed.
I deliberately ran all week long with my Shadow Plus' roller clutch OFF, out of action, to see if I would drop the chain. The chain never dropped. I am only riding pavement and I do have a narrow-wide 56T chainring.
But, it apprears that a stronger tension arm spring than the stock derailleur offers is the key cure to chain drops. The stock derailleur tension arm spring is just plain too weak. Of course, chain guides help and all that. But the stock derailleur allows way too much chain slap, beating the hell out of the chainstay paint, chipping it off. No excuse for a spring so weak as to allow that, much less derailment from the chainring.
john peck
Well-Known Member
Chris, Schwable maKes a 700/50. I think it's the Mondial tread pattern. It's really a long range touring tire, not a fast roller, but
a durable all-terrain. I went ahead mounted both of the regular marathons, (wish I hadn't). They are 'fast', but terrifying
on wet road. My luck, shoulda left the good kenda on the front. Hopefully that will improve once they break in, SQUIRRELY!
Actually, I lost 35# before the CCS arrived. I'm down a bit more than a 100#, but it's cost a good bit of muscle mass too. More
agile though.
ps Wish I'd gone with the Mondials.
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Asher
Well-Known Member
I had asked a salesman (he was male) if the stickers were removable, and he said they were, and they are not, not without voiding your warranty probably (sanding off, reapplying clear coat, etc). Someone else here reported the same thing. I'd still have bought the bike no doubt, but I'd have appreciated being told the decals were not removable from the beginning.
More generally, I think the decals detract from the bike's appearance on the brushed aluminum*, and it's easier for them to not put on any. I don't see these stickers helping Juiced sell more bikes. You'll also find that there's a general pattern of minimalist appearance ~ more premium, e.g. Stromer, Vanmoof vs Ancheer ($600 Amazon 250w ebike). I.e. you can charge more for a cleaner bike.
*On the black, it looks very tasteful, because it's low contrast. When I've checked, the black is in way shorter supply. Probably not a coincidence...
More generally, I think the decals detract from the bike's appearance on the brushed aluminum*, and it's easier for them to not put on any. I don't see these stickers helping Juiced sell more bikes. You'll also find that there's a general pattern of minimalist appearance ~ more premium, e.g. Stromer, Vanmoof vs Ancheer ($600 Amazon 250w ebike). I.e. you can charge more for a cleaner bike.
*On the black, it looks very tasteful, because it's low contrast. When I've checked, the black is in way shorter supply. Probably not a coincidence...
john peck
Well-Known Member
What's with the Ancheer? I know they're cheap; is it any good?
I went with black on my CCS simply to keep a low profile. Having ordered the 21ah, I didn't want to advertise my super
commuter. Yet, as a deterrent to thieves I put a 007 sticker on it hoping they'd not be willing to die getting their hands on it.
And then I also thought if Bond rode a bike this would be it.
I've about got it dialed in to fit now: 11g vibe dampened rear spokes, 50/34 chainring for powerless pedaling, big comfy
springer saddle on a suspension post, (rides like a Citroen), Magellan GPS, & a front bar bag that also serves as a very good faring.
Because the in-frame & rear panniers obscure the batpac & motor, I get a lot of bewildered looks from spandexters on roadies
as I zip past going uphill. (Gotta find out what kinda diet that old geezer's on)
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john peck
Well-Known Member
The schwalbes are fine in the wet now that they're broken in. The stock chain was shot from wet grime & a bit long for the 50/34.
The new 114 link is perfect. The 34/13 ratio is fairly easy pedaling yet near 3 to 1 without power. I now feel I can tour on this bike.
At my age 45 miles a day is plenty anyway. Walk mode is about 6.5 mph. Using the low range I can actually ride up about anything
pedaling. For now I'm shifting the front manually. I have loads of parts, just not sure how I want to set up the front derailleur.
The 50T let's me pedal further into a hill before shifting. It's basically more terrain friendly.
The Bond bike lives.
The new 114 link is perfect. The 34/13 ratio is fairly easy pedaling yet near 3 to 1 without power. I now feel I can tour on this bike.
At my age 45 miles a day is plenty anyway. Walk mode is about 6.5 mph. Using the low range I can actually ride up about anything
pedaling. For now I'm shifting the front manually. I have loads of parts, just not sure how I want to set up the front derailleur.
The 50T let's me pedal further into a hill before shifting. It's basically more terrain friendly.
The Bond bike lives.
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Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
Awesome bike and mods.
"Peck. John Peck."
"Peck. John Peck."
john peck
Well-Known Member
Mountain Mode Shakedown: By hand switched to the 34T. Eco is like mode one, 1 like 2, etc. Took the 'Bond bike' out
to challenge some local topography. Power on, with the added leverage to the pedals, flat road is virtually effortless. It
climbs moderate hills easily on the 13 or 15T. Top end with the 34T is around 22mph in all modes. Geez, you wouldn't
believe the way this baby climbs! Was on a cinder path this morning with a 40 degree hill about 300 yds of rise. At the
base on a guy on a very nicely hybridized, old *Peugeot Recorde du Monde. He was just starting up when I shot
past & to the hilltop in less than a minute. I stopped for a moment at the top & looked back. His expression,
priceless. WTF!
The beauty of 34T is you can cruise at a casual 12 to 14 mph on mild terrain with very little exertion. Even with all the
hills, my miles per volt was the same as the 52T. I used mode 1 for the first half of the ride, mode 2 just on that one hill.
the rest was eco. I could ride the 34T any time I'm in no hurry, which is most of the time.
*seen his before, usta have one myself
to challenge some local topography. Power on, with the added leverage to the pedals, flat road is virtually effortless. It
climbs moderate hills easily on the 13 or 15T. Top end with the 34T is around 22mph in all modes. Geez, you wouldn't
believe the way this baby climbs! Was on a cinder path this morning with a 40 degree hill about 300 yds of rise. At the
base on a guy on a very nicely hybridized, old *Peugeot Recorde du Monde. He was just starting up when I shot
past & to the hilltop in less than a minute. I stopped for a moment at the top & looked back. His expression,
priceless. WTF!
The beauty of 34T is you can cruise at a casual 12 to 14 mph on mild terrain with very little exertion. Even with all the
hills, my miles per volt was the same as the 52T. I used mode 1 for the first half of the ride, mode 2 just on that one hill.
the rest was eco. I could ride the 34T any time I'm in no hurry, which is most of the time.
*seen his before, usta have one myself
Asher
Well-Known Member
I am hearing streaking sounds, sort of like metal plates rubbing against each other, sometimes when I ride, only when I'm carrying a heavy load. Seems to be coming from the rear hub, and it's not brake rub which is fairly quiet and lower pitched.
What might I be doing wrong? Cargo is on the left side of the rack.
What might I be doing wrong? Cargo is on the left side of the rack.
john peck
Well-Known Member
Sometimes I get a sort of grating sound when there's a load on the motor. It tells me time to shift to a lower gear.
I don't get it so much anymore now that the motor is more broken in, & I've lost more weight. I think it's just stress
on the internal hub gears. Down shift.
I don't get it so much anymore now that the motor is more broken in, & I've lost more weight. I think it's just stress
on the internal hub gears. Down shift.
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Asher
Well-Known Member
Thanks, it's not a matter of shifting for me.
I rode this morning with a lighter load, and I find I have brake rub on both wheels. The streaking sound went away. This is the third time I'm getting brake rub in three weeks, but the first on the back wheel. The first two times were after initial assembly and after swapping tires. I'm hoping this isn't a recurring pattern.
I have done just under 300 miles so far, so it may need a new bike tune-up anyway.
I rode this morning with a lighter load, and I find I have brake rub on both wheels. The streaking sound went away. This is the third time I'm getting brake rub in three weeks, but the first on the back wheel. The first two times were after initial assembly and after swapping tires. I'm hoping this isn't a recurring pattern.
I have done just under 300 miles so far, so it may need a new bike tune-up anyway.
john peck
Well-Known Member
That's too bad, are the discs warped at all? If not, you might want to loosen them & use thread lock to re-tighten them
in an opposing pattern as you might the lugs of a car wheel. So far my brakes have performed almost too well.
I'm about 5 mi. short of a 1000.
Say can someone do a tutorial on replacing the shifter cable? Looks like I'd just about have to disassemble the bike
When I put on the riser bars it made the cable a bit tight. The end of the sheath has frayed; still works but cosmetically
annoying,
in an opposing pattern as you might the lugs of a car wheel. So far my brakes have performed almost too well.
I'm about 5 mi. short of a 1000.
Say can someone do a tutorial on replacing the shifter cable? Looks like I'd just about have to disassemble the bike
When I put on the riser bars it made the cable a bit tight. The end of the sheath has frayed; still works but cosmetically
annoying,
Barry S
Well-Known Member
I concur on the Marathon Plus being squirrely on wet surfaces. I had Specialized Nimbus before and they did much better on wet roads but a hard ride. I keep my tires at 5 psi below max because of my weight. Working on that too.
Rooster
Active Member
I know this will piss some people off but you asked, what your doing wrong is, you bought a juiced bike but don't feel too bad, I did too.
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