Kindernay VII IGH and HYSEQ Onesie shifter

[Merle Nelson]

I haven't. One thing I have noticed is that sometimes, in my hsste, I don't get a full and complete shift and I'll hear extra noise as I'm pedaling. I can shift a gear up or a gear down and then return to the gear I really wanted. Or, a more elegant solution was put forth by BarnBoy in his Hydra thread. Just put pressure on the shifter to "come up against" a gear change but not actually shift. That causes better gear engagement.

 

[ava1ar]

It is time for me to change the oil in the hub after the first 500km and got confused about how much oil I need to put inside (for Kindernay VII). On their web site they say single oil change is 100ml but the paper instruction included with my oil kit says 20ml for VII and 30ml for XIV (see attached). So, what is correct amount? 20ml seems not enough, since first time I put there exactly 100ml (single bottle). What do you guys think? I don't think 20ml is enough. Going to message Kindernay for clarification.

 

[Merle Nelson]

I think K will tell you 20 ml is the refill amount after using about 20 to do a rinse. Somewhere in reading about problems with seeping hubs I saw that their idea of a fix was to have less oil volume in the hub. And they justify the low amount of oil by saying hub innards just need to have oil coat them not be fully bathed in oil all the time.

 

[ava1ar]

You probably right - I put 100ml there and it leaks that much so I think it lost half of it already (in 3 days)! Hope something will stay there and it will be sufficient for hub to function properly. At the same time the fact it is leaking and can't stay in oil bath all the time means oil probably needs to be replaced more often than once per year / 5000 km. How you hubs are doing guys? Do you see leaks?

 

[scrambler]

I have 20ml in my VII, and no leaks so far

 

[ava1ar]

Great! Well, hope mine won't leak anymore when only 20ml retain from 100ml I put there )))
I definitely noticed it works better and quieter after oil change, which is great.

 

[Merle Nelson]

Zero leaks or seep for my K14. Yes I'm going to change more often - especially at first. My first change at 150 miles the oil looked like a nice metal flake fountain pen ink and was between dark brown and black. Just coming up on another change soon.

 

[ava1ar]

Start seeing another issue with my hub - the sproket locking nut gets loose with time. I looked a bit into it and looks like this may happen since the thread direction for this nut is regular (right-handed) and the possible friction between this nut and shifter end cap can unscrew it, since rotation happens in same direction the thread is, which is weird - it supposed to be opposite just like on pedals. Am I missing something here? So you guys see similar issue? Any ideas what I can do to prevent it? I tried blue thread locker and it didn't really help

 

[scrambler]

Are you torquing it to specs?

 

[ava1ar]

Are you torquing it to specs?

I didn't measure the exact torque since the key needed is 36mm and I don't have torque wrench for that one. Can you recommend any?

 

[scrambler]

The Kindernay installation manual recommends 30Nm
These keys are cheap on amazon. there are different types depending which type of lock ring you have (hex, notched...).
I received mine with a notched ring so I bought this one

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076CYFCPY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[ava1ar]

The Kindernay installation manual recommends 30Nm
These keys are cheap on amazon. there are different types depending which type of lock ring you have (hex, notched...).
I received mine with a notched ring so I bought this one

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B076CYFCPY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Thanks! Mine is hex unfortunately, so less options, but I will look for one now. 2nd question is how you lock you rear sproket when tightening this one? Since I have a belt drive I ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UJXT7NE, but interesting to see what are you using for this.

 

[scrambler]

You only need a chain whip to untighten the lockring because of the freewheel.
To tighten it, you don't need any.

 

[ava1ar]

You only need a chain whip to untighten the lockring because of the freewheel.
To tighten it, you don't need any.

Yes, that's true. However you still need to lock the axle and it is not that convenient to do this using torque arm. Will get the socket on Friday and make sure the lock rind is properly tighten. Thanks again for the hint!

 

[scrambler]

Not sure what you mean, you just hold the wheel while you tighten

 

[ava1ar]

Not sure what you mean, you just hold the wheel while you tighten

Yeah, right. Sorry, long day, brain is offline already...

 

[scrambler]

Been there, done that

 

[J10001]

Has anyone swapped from the twosie to onesie shifter? Kindernay will only sell the complete onsie unit with actuator, which is very frustrating that they will force you spend $450 just to change the shifter. Especially since I already paid the premium for the XIV over the VII when it was available.

 

[ava1ar]

Been there, done that

I was tightening the nut today and you know - I was not that wrong. When you take off the rear wheel (and this is needed if you want to use torque wrench) and try to tighten the sprocket nut you have to lock the torque arm (or sprocket). If you releasing this arm, you have to lock the sprocket due to freewheel. Not sure what you mean when you saying "just hold the wheel while you tighten" - the sprocket and nut are always rotating both ways. Isn't this the case for you?

 

[scrambler]

May be we are mis communicating.

When the wheel is off and you put a wrench on the lock ring, if you rotate the wrench counter clockwise (to try and unscrew the lock ring), ring and sprocket turn while the wheel stay fixed, because of the freewheel. So in order to unscrew the lock ring, you need a tool to hold the sprocket fixed while you use the wrench.

If you rotate the wrench clockwise (to tighten the lockring), lockring, sprocket and wheel all rotate together, as this is how the sprocket turns the wheel. So in order to tighten the lockring, all you need is hold the wheel fixed (which can be done by hand), while you rotate the wrench and tighten the lockring. No tools needed, just holding the wheel.

Hope this clarifies what I meant