I have had a lot of help in figuring out this bike and its settings to get it to suit my riding style. You have contributed absolutely nothing. I would've done just fine with everybody else helping me and without your useless commentary.
Just got the ultra eagle - getting used to the midrive?
- Thread starter 330rcs
- Start date
I have had a lot of help in figuring out this bike and its settings to get it to suit my riding style. You have contributed absolutely nothing. I would've done just fine with everybody else helping me and without your useless commentary.
Yeah I agree I even read about somebody that cruised on throttle only through an intersection and got pulled over because he wasn't pedaling.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
OK, go for it. Continue blaming the bike for YOUR mistakes. Hope that works out well for you.
Man Without Shadow
Member
Unplug the controller...green cable..five pins...plug the USB cable in to the part of the cable that goes to the motor. Have the battery in it while you do it.
The pins are tiny and bendy so be careful...
Use the arrows to line them up.
Also review the vid I posted.
The pins are tiny and bendy so be careful...
Use the arrows to line them up.
Also review the vid I posted.
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Man Without Shadow
Member
Also...save your stock settings as a file so you can go back to them if you need to.
Or at least take screen shots of the four programming screens so you have the original values.
Or at least take screen shots of the four programming screens so you have the original values.
Clark Gryphyn
New Member
Sorry for the long delay in my response. Using the programming guide on Biktrix's site (Stock Ultra Settings and Programming Guide), the only things I remember needing to change were under the "Throttle" tab. I changed the Mode from "Speed" to "Current." Then I changed the "Start Current" to 1%.
The throttle's still got loads of power ready for you, it just delivers it in a more civilized manner.
Not related to the throttle, but on the "Basic" tab I also set each of the assist levels 1-9 to add about 11% power. Level 0 is 0% of course, L1 = 11% up to L9 = 100%. Having the very low power levels makes it very easy for me to ride along with standard bikes. Usually L1, 11% boost is perfect for this.
The throttle's still got loads of power ready for you, it just delivers it in a more civilized manner.
Not related to the throttle, but on the "Basic" tab I also set each of the assist levels 1-9 to add about 11% power. Level 0 is 0% of course, L1 = 11% up to L9 = 100%. Having the very low power levels makes it very easy for me to ride along with standard bikes. Usually L1, 11% boost is perfect for this.
Appreciate that, my programming cable came in today so was looking forward to updating the throttle setting to current. I'm also seeing a couple different versions of the software? Can you confirm which software you're using? Thanks!
Man Without Shadow
Member
Here is a link to the file:
drive.google.com
inside the folder there will be a .exe called "Controllerst_torque.exe"
use that one...the other file "Controllerst.exe" doesn't have the torque tab.
ULTRAMaxProg.zip
drive.google.com
inside the folder there will be a .exe called "Controllerst_torque.exe"
use that one...the other file "Controllerst.exe" doesn't have the torque tab.
So if you set your assist to L9 since for my preference I feel the assist is a little too low and want to increase it. If I set it to L9 - 100% that's not the same as 100% throttle power right? I'm not going to pedal and wheelie right?
Man Without Shadow
Member
I am uncertain about that (hopefully Clark answers soon).
Do this...read all the current values and take screen shots and/or save the stock configuration file. Look and see what the current setting is you want to change. If the L9 is too low and its at like 10%...then ya...maybe 100% is too high. If it's at 90% then 100% is ok...and so on.
Get a reading of what it currently is and go from there.
Then you can adjust it more or less than what it is.
In the programming folder there is also a file called "karl's special sauce". The guy who wrote the article included his settings in the download and if you wanted, you could try his settings. (I haven't done this so can't speak to the effect).
Also the biktrix link gives what they think are optimal values and explains what most of them do. Compare your settings to that.
According to the documentation, it is possible to harm/burn up the controller with a bad or too high/low setting. Be mindful of that...read and re-read the documentation.
I strongly encourage you to save the stock settings in some way so you can revert back or reference them.
Do this...read all the current values and take screen shots and/or save the stock configuration file. Look and see what the current setting is you want to change. If the L9 is too low and its at like 10%...then ya...maybe 100% is too high. If it's at 90% then 100% is ok...and so on.
Get a reading of what it currently is and go from there.
Then you can adjust it more or less than what it is.
In the programming folder there is also a file called "karl's special sauce". The guy who wrote the article included his settings in the download and if you wanted, you could try his settings. (I haven't done this so can't speak to the effect).
Also the biktrix link gives what they think are optimal values and explains what most of them do. Compare your settings to that.
According to the documentation, it is possible to harm/burn up the controller with a bad or too high/low setting. Be mindful of that...read and re-read the documentation.
I strongly encourage you to save the stock settings in some way so you can revert back or reference them.
lordnox09
Member
Yes I believe it still would be but you would have a tiny bit of control as it's tourqe based so if you can pedal without much power then it will boost you a bit but as soon as you put power into the pedal it would be 100% same as throttle
going by my bike when I put it in pas 9 it is same as throttle only difference being the input that I give
you will only wheelie it if your in the wrong gear to start with 160nm will wheelie you time and time again if you have it too low when you hit it can't see much reason to go below your top 7 gears when pedaling unless you ride at normal bike speeds and want the assist to carry you well you pretend to pedal
lordnox09
Member
If you can raise your seat anymore that will help as it will lean more of your weight to the front of the bike now I want to try to wheelie I haven't experienced that yet even on crazy steep hills
So after typing that I remember you have a hardtail so that's why I can't compare as my shock just abosrbs that issue and just plants my tire harder
TForan
Well-Known Member
I have a 52T chainring and I would recommend a 48 or maybe a 50. I've not wheelied in the 3 years ,I've had the bike. I guess I don't understand going down to gears to the point of wheelies. 5-9 gears is all I use and can climb any hill without standing. Now, I don't ride any off road technical stuff at all. 95% MUTs and street.
Yeah I just have a habit of going all the way to lowest gear 1 when I come to a stop on my rear hub which is a 9 speed. This is a 12 speed so I just need to get used to not gearing down that low on this bike. Plus the fact the shifter doesn't tell you what gear you're in I'm just having to guess. I am going to start getting in the habit of counting down gears from highest gear and not come down below gear 5.
The only "off-roading" I do is to cut through a trail for a shortcut. I don't climb trails or specifically go out to mountain bike etc it's mostly a commuter and some joy riding but it's all mostly streets but like I said to cut through to where I want to go I'll cut through the trail but it's all paved paths.
Deafcat
Active Member
The solution to wheelie control is absolutely just to shift your weight forward, it's also the solution to cutting through wet snow in the winter. Low front handlebars help...
Also worth pointing out, I can still take the front wheel off the ground easily with a 54T chainring, on account of having a 51T granny gear on the 12-speed cassette.
And a little disclaimer note: the bigger your chainring, the higher the momentary torque loads on the motor/geartrain/one-way clutch, which means increased chances of motor damage with bigger chainrings, in abusive scenarios (like taking off full-throttle in too high of a gear).
I run the big chainring with attention never to overload the motor, and the reason I'm running such a big ring is higher cruising speed on the road in traffic... It is not a good idea for trail riding at all!
edit: I've also gone and tested all the way up to 58T chainrings, they are "out of range" for the cassette/drivetrain. With an 11-46T eleven speed, I found the 50T was about perfect, though that could be pushed to 52T comfortably.
I still really like the stock Bafang steel narrow-wide chainrings too, they are well made (I think they come in 42, 44, and 46T, with the 44T being the most common stock specced on Biktrix Ultras).
Also worth pointing out, I can still take the front wheel off the ground easily with a 54T chainring, on account of having a 51T granny gear on the 12-speed cassette.
And a little disclaimer note: the bigger your chainring, the higher the momentary torque loads on the motor/geartrain/one-way clutch, which means increased chances of motor damage with bigger chainrings, in abusive scenarios (like taking off full-throttle in too high of a gear).
I run the big chainring with attention never to overload the motor, and the reason I'm running such a big ring is higher cruising speed on the road in traffic... It is not a good idea for trail riding at all!
edit: I've also gone and tested all the way up to 58T chainrings, they are "out of range" for the cassette/drivetrain. With an 11-46T eleven speed, I found the 50T was about perfect, though that could be pushed to 52T comfortably.
I still really like the stock Bafang steel narrow-wide chainrings too, they are well made (I think they come in 42, 44, and 46T, with the 44T being the most common stock specced on Biktrix Ultras).
Ok I got the software and connected it. I already updated the throttle settings to current and to start at 1% power.
Now this is my screenshot of the assist settings. So on the left column 1-9 this is what I need to update correct? So let's say I want to try to add 10% power to each assist level. So what level should I update each assist to? Or should I increase each number by 10 points?
Also what determines assist 1, assist 2 etc? Is it the modes on the display? 0, 1, 2, 3 etc.? Mine starts at ECO - 1 in green and it goes up to 5 then you have to double click on the controller I believe and then it turns red and says "power" and goes up another 5 levels so is all this the assist levels? Since I think 9 levels of assist is too far apart. Can I just copy the assist levels 6-10 to 1-5? So instead of starting at 30 at assist 1, I will start at 55 and go up to 100 for assist level 5. Should I try that?
Now this is my screenshot of the assist settings. So on the left column 1-9 this is what I need to update correct? So let's say I want to try to add 10% power to each assist level. So what level should I update each assist to? Or should I increase each number by 10 points?
Also what determines assist 1, assist 2 etc? Is it the modes on the display? 0, 1, 2, 3 etc.? Mine starts at ECO - 1 in green and it goes up to 5 then you have to double click on the controller I believe and then it turns red and says "power" and goes up another 5 levels so is all this the assist levels? Since I think 9 levels of assist is too far apart. Can I just copy the assist levels 6-10 to 1-5? So instead of starting at 30 at assist 1, I will start at 55 and go up to 100 for assist level 5. Should I try that?
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Man Without Shadow
Member
I can not answer your questions directly but I can add some observations.
Wheel size should be 27 (I assume you have 27.5 on the Ultra beast).
And it seems you are not using the program with the TORQUE tab? That only matters of course if you are trying to change TORQUE settings.
There is a controller, the 500C that has a different format. It allows you to set 3, 5, or 9 PAS. Of course those numbers are arbitrary. With 3 PAS settings, high would be 3, on 5 PAS, 5 would be high, and on 9 PAS, 9 would be high with "high" being the same power on 3, 5 or 9.
I have read the DPC18 display does not directly correspond to the motor program:
electricbikereview.com
You might need to contact Biktrix to see how the 0-9 PAS settings correspond to ECO and SPORT.
Wheel size should be 27 (I assume you have 27.5 on the Ultra beast).
And it seems you are not using the program with the TORQUE tab? That only matters of course if you are trying to change TORQUE settings.
There is a controller, the 500C that has a different format. It allows you to set 3, 5, or 9 PAS. Of course those numbers are arbitrary. With 3 PAS settings, high would be 3, on 5 PAS, 5 would be high, and on 9 PAS, 9 would be high with "high" being the same power on 3, 5 or 9.
I have read the DPC18 display does not directly correspond to the motor program:
Bafang DPC-18 Ebike Display Settings
Hi guys, while reviewing some of the EVELO models in Seattle recently, I was able to spend some time digging into the Bafang DPC-18 LCD display and control pad and wanted to share some of the deeper settings. This display is not removable, but it does swivel to reduce glare. It does have a USB...
electricbikereview.com
You might need to contact Biktrix to see how the 0-9 PAS settings correspond to ECO and SPORT.
I can not answer your questions directly but I can add some observations.
Wheel size should be 27 (I assume you have 27.5 on the Ultra beast).
And it seems you are not using the program with the TORQUE tab? That only matters of course if you are trying to change TORQUE settings.
There is a controller, the 500C that has a different format. It allows you to set 3, 5, or 9 PAS. Of course those numbers are arbitrary. With 3 PAS settings, high would be 3, on 5 PAS, 5 would be high, and on 9 PAS, 9 would be high with "high" being the same power on 3, 5 or 9.
I have read the DPC18 display does not directly correspond to the motor program:
Bafang DPC-18 Ebike Display Settings
Hi guys, while reviewing some of the EVELO models in Seattle recently, I was able to spend some time digging into the Bafang DPC-18 LCD display and control pad and wanted to share some of the deeper settings. This display is not removable, but it does swivel to reduce glare. It does have a USB...
You might need to contact Biktrix to see how the 0-9 PAS settings correspond to ECO and SPORT.
I will send Biktrix an email to be sure this is what it says in the Specs:
RIMS
26"- 80MM 36H, BLACK 27.5"- 35MM 36H
I know the tires are 27.5" does that mean the wheels must be as well?
Also I updated my pas settings to the following. I didn't replicate the highest assist levels. I still want to conserve battery and I think it's going to be too much power. If I want to go all out and joy ride or something in wide open space then that can be there in the power levels.
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