Just got the ultra eagle - getting used to the midrive?
- Thread starter 330rcs
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AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Thinking that a bike dumping your butt on the pavement might be user error. Don't blame you for being irritated, but I think maybe your focus is a little misguided. You should be mad at YOURSELF!
This ISN'T a rear hub! How much power that rear wheel sees on a mid drive is highly dependent on what gear you are in.
Settle down, and cool it until you get some time on it. A bike with this kind of power needs to be ridden with a little finesse.... especially until you have a clue regarding what to expect when/if using the throttle.
I do thank you for sharing....
This ISN'T a rear hub! How much power that rear wheel sees on a mid drive is highly dependent on what gear you are in.
Settle down, and cool it until you get some time on it. A bike with this kind of power needs to be ridden with a little finesse.... especially until you have a clue regarding what to expect when/if using the throttle.
I do thank you for sharing....
The owner Roshan already replied to me and I guess they will let me return it but he asked me if I want to try to disconnect the gear sensor first (didn't know I could do that) and so I said yes and I am waiting for him to tell me how to do that. Will report back if I like it anymore without those stupid pauses while shifting. The issue is it's hard to keep up speed on it when every time the gear sensor kicks in my rpms drop. I hate it. Let's see how long until I snap my chain though.
Might as well give it one last shot if I've already wasted this much time on it. It needs to be packaged to be shipped back it's not going to fly away back to them tomorrow morning.
Clark Gryphyn
New Member
Like many posters have said, sounds like it just isn't the bike for you. Ultra Eagle is intended to be kinda like a race car. Amazing power, but unforgiving if you don't know how to use it.
As far as the throttle goes, Biktrix programs them where throttle position = velocity. I found this to be very jerky, difficult to use smoothly at times. Using the programming cable I changed the throttle to "current" mode where position = current delivered, and then set it so no matter what position I chose it starts at 0% and ramps up smoothly. Much better experience, in my opinion. Easier on my drivetrain too.
As far as the throttle goes, Biktrix programs them where throttle position = velocity. I found this to be very jerky, difficult to use smoothly at times. Using the programming cable I changed the throttle to "current" mode where position = current delivered, and then set it so no matter what position I chose it starts at 0% and ramps up smoothly. Much better experience, in my opinion. Easier on my drivetrain too.
I've noticed that, now that you mention it. I have pushed the throttle down too far more than once and have it wheelie on me or ram me in my ass when I hit the throttle and try to get on the seat at the same time. That's probably also why I wheelied at the top of the hill earlier today must have hit the throttle too far and it instantly wheelied and threw me on my ass.
If I like it without the shift sensor and decide to keep it then I'll get the programming cable and do what you said. Appreciate your constructive feedback with an actual solution that could work for me.
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Are all the bafang programming cables the same? Can you tell me where you connect the cable on the bike/motor? You have the same mid drive ultra motor? What did you change to set it so that no matter where you push it starts at 0%? This is how my rear hub bafang system works. I agree much smoother to ramp up throttle slow especially when you have 1500w Peak then I won't wheelie it and get thrown off.
Thanks
Man Without Shadow
Member
Here is a rudimentary explanation of the process:
It doesn't explain what you need to do, but shows you what is involved and how to approach it.
It doesn't explain what you need to do, but shows you what is involved and how to approach it.
Thanks!!!!
Man Without Shadow
Member
Here is another link that talks about what/how:
electricbike-blog.com
I Void Warranties : Hacking The Bafang Ultra Max Mid-Drive Ebike Drive
There is half a dozen low power torque sensing mid drives on the market right now that advertise themselves as being between 250 and 750 Watts. The one thing that all these ‘low power’ …
electricbike-blog.com
Man Without Shadow
Member
Can you explain this in more detail please? Is the only change you make from "speed" to "current" on the throttle page, mode setting? No other parameter changes?
Thanks!
He's saying the way it's setup now if you slam the throttle all the way down you're going to get instant full power. Which is what has made me wheelie and fall on my ass.
The way he has updated the programming is that if you slam on the throttle the speed/power is going to increase slowly.
So the way they have it programmed from factory the position of the throttle depending on how far you push it down determines how much power you're getting. So if you want a little power you have to only push it down slightly. So that means if you're going up hills or taking off or whatever you have to know where/how far to push the throttle down for the right amount of power. Instead of pushing down on the throttle at any position and gradually/slowly receive the full power.
I am surprised that they would ship their 1500w motors with the throttle programmed like that it's horrible (for me anyway) it freaking wheelies instantly if you push it down too far on a high assist level.
That's from what I understand but I could be wrong
Man Without Shadow
Member
I understand what he is saying, I just wanted detailed instructions on what he did exactly.
Man Without Shadow
Member
Here is the Biktrix programming explanations/recommendations:
support.biktrix.com
Stock Ultra settings and Programming guide
By proceeding with the following you are acknowledging that you are following these instructions carefully and in full. Biktrix is not liable for any changes being made resulting in corruption of t...
support.biktrix.com
Here is the Biktrix programming explanations/recommendations:
Stock Ultra settings and Programming guide
By proceeding with the following you are acknowledging that you are following these instructions carefully and in full. Biktrix is not liable for any changes being made resulting in corruption of t...
This is awesome I will try to tinker with the assist level because I can't get enough assist without having to stay on the throttle continously. If I can find a setting I'm happy with it and then change the programming on the throttle to gradually increase along with removing the shift sensor. I may actually end up wanting to keep this thing. I didn't know I could change all these things. I thought "this is just how mid drive work" but who knows I may still not liking it but I would rather try everything I can before I give up on it totally.
Man Without Shadow
Member
For what it's worth:
I start in PAS 1 and that assists me for like 99% of what I do. Before I go up a hill, I'll put it on PAS 3 or PAS 4 in case I need the extra oomph. The other day on a flat trail, i put it on PAS 9 just so I could pedal at 30mph. I seldom use the throttle unless I need a boost through an intersection or just want to speed around. I start on PAS 1 and as I need I increase/decrease it. I would never start at max PAS (5 or 9) and in a high gear. It's too much torque on the motor (Superman pedal stomp...).
Like a regular bike, I shift down before coming to a stop so I can have easy pedaling/motoring when I start back up. If you had a regular bike in its highest gear at a stop sign you would also have trouble pedaling it from a stop. "If its hard for your legs, its hard for the motor..."
It seems odd to me that you can't get enough assist. Riding flat PAS 1 is about all I use...kick it up when I get to a hill...but I don't live in Colorado either.
I guess if your entire ride is just grinding up a mountain then I can't speak to that experience.
I'd keep the gear sensor on until you've tried everything else.
Just my two cents...
I start in PAS 1 and that assists me for like 99% of what I do. Before I go up a hill, I'll put it on PAS 3 or PAS 4 in case I need the extra oomph. The other day on a flat trail, i put it on PAS 9 just so I could pedal at 30mph. I seldom use the throttle unless I need a boost through an intersection or just want to speed around. I start on PAS 1 and as I need I increase/decrease it. I would never start at max PAS (5 or 9) and in a high gear. It's too much torque on the motor (Superman pedal stomp...).
Like a regular bike, I shift down before coming to a stop so I can have easy pedaling/motoring when I start back up. If you had a regular bike in its highest gear at a stop sign you would also have trouble pedaling it from a stop. "If its hard for your legs, its hard for the motor..."
It seems odd to me that you can't get enough assist. Riding flat PAS 1 is about all I use...kick it up when I get to a hill...but I don't live in Colorado either.
I guess if your entire ride is just grinding up a mountain then I can't speak to that experience.
I'd keep the gear sensor on until you've tried everything else.
Just my two cents...
I totally understand gearing down when coming to a stop I've been riding a bafang 750w rear hub for 1.5 yrs same concept. The shift sensor is driving me crazy though. I change gears a lot and especially when it's hilly I can be changing gears multiple times on the same road there's nothing flat here. The PAS could be working fine but every time I shift gears the motor cuts off. So it's like I'm trying to go and I switch gears and then it feels like it's stalling. I was in a major intersection today and I took off in low gear but when you take off you need to start gearing up to go faster and as soon as I switched gears in the middle of the intersection with a car coming at me wanting to make a left the motor cuts off and I lose power even if it's for a second it screws up my momentum and shifting. I hate it.
Man Without Shadow
Member
My throttle will at least get me through an intersection without needing to shift. But ya...missing a shift by surprise is no fun and sometimes dangerous...
Like I said, a mid drive mimics your legs...and the hub drive would work you through the intersection no matter what your legs are doing.
Mid drive like a super bicycle, hub drive more like a motorcycle with pedals.
Like I said, a mid drive mimics your legs...and the hub drive would work you through the intersection no matter what your legs are doing.
Mid drive like a super bicycle, hub drive more like a motorcycle with pedals.
Yeah I can also throttle through the intersection but to me it seems crazy that I have to do that because I can NOT shift otherwise motor will cut off on me in the middle of an intersection. If that's the case this isn't even a bike to me. I don't want to ride a bike that I can't shift because of so and so reason that seems absurd to me. Then might as well just get a motorcycle or stay on the throttle all the time.
I don't like relying on throttle only except for a boost, anytime Im on throttle only and no pedaling I feel like I'm on a motorcycle. I like pedaling and having the assist carry me. It's way more fun to me than just pushing down a button and going. I don't mind once in a while having to hit the throttle from taking off or a really steep hill but for the most part I like pedaling and relying on assist but every time I go to shift everything cuts off and screws up my momentum.
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